Abhishek: Great effort, beautiful pictures, well-written log and a wonderful attitude towards touring (no rush to push through for every listed destination - Dhankar for next time - 'I like' .)

I also like your way of expressing things by flitting between different rider's view-points. And 'the dreams were white' was a great punch-line .

And as for your attempts at leaving Kaza early, it was good that the bikes did not start. Black ice would have been a major issue on the road so early in the day.
PS: at the prevailing sub-zero temperatures, petrol doesn't vaporize well enough to catch fire inside the cylinder, what with the low oxygen content in the air in addition.

It all started a few months back when this idea struck me - ride to Spiti in March. A sight that I had always imagined - the whole valley covered by snow, conditons just less than risky & no rush to cover any place at a fast pace. Discussions & meetings followed as to who all will join, what all will it take, etc. The weather in Delhi was also getting warmer by end of Feb indicating that it would be easier to ride in hills. But then who says plans materialise the way you think? the weather took a turn for bad, it started drizzling in Delhi & raining cats & dogs in hills. Phone calls to hotels in hills and they advised not come. Some friend went to Kalpa & Sangla on a 4-wheel and came back with head nodding in negative. WTF??

So will my dream not realise in 2011? Would I have to wait for one more year to get precise conditions for this trip? The enthu of fellow riders also went for a toss and March had already started.

Some days later.... a call from Sarahan and the hotel manager on the line sadi, "Sir, weather theek hone ke chances hain. Aap thodi himmat karein to bike se Spiti pahunch skate hain."

Wait for nothing and I packed my bags. A phone call to Shaantonil and he requested to postpone the ride or one week. I relented as it's always better & more enjoyable to ride with pals to such places. A week later, i.e. on 12th March, we were cruising towards Panipat where Lovish would join us. And yes, Nitin had joined us at the eleventh hour.

The first day halt was Rampur. Its a routine 12 hour mundane ride via Shimla & Narkanda. I must mention that Shimla - Narkanda stretch is deteriorating regularly. Everytime its worse than earlier. But the nice tarmac after Narkanda kinda makes up fot it. A nice and cheap hotel at Rampur, very good dinner, some pegs of whisky and league match of world cup (IND v/s SA) was all that our evening consisted. The target for next day was NAKO which is just 200 kms from Rampur.

We all were ready at 8 in morning on 13th to carry on further. Some delicious paraathas, omelettes, many cups of tea & noodles at Bhavanagar was our breakfast. The bill presented to us was of Rs.140 only and my eyes had to be kept back in their sockets at the sheer shock of bill being so meagre. Anyway, bill paid & we rode on.

The roads from Wangtu to Powari have improved and were not so difficult to ride as earlier. Though this argument wasn't bought by my fellow riders. Even the stretch further is not so bad, also to admit that I enjoy slowly treading on rough stretches. Plain & smooth tarmac gets boring for me after a limit. The ride after Powari was eventful where Lovish & Nitin started stopping frequently to capture the vistas. I was getting restless at such breaks but could understand their excitement as being on this stretch for first time does compel you to stop and bring camera to use.

I was happy trundling slowly on rough road whereas others were almost riding like pro-rally racers. They used to disappear within no time of starting from any point and I was left with no option but to cover the distance without causing my bike much pain.... imagine a pulsar being ridden harsh by a 100kg rider. SORRY!! I can't do that to my P220. Pooh came & passed by but I didn't want to stop. Nitin wanted to have lunch but non-availability of any open eating joint washed out his hope.

1600hrs - we were in NAKO. None of the hotel or home-stays were open at this time of year. Thankfully, a small dhaba remains open throughout the year besides Helipad and the Mr. Dharampal, the caretaker of the dhaba, graciously agreed to make arrangements for our stay as well. Two days of ride got over. Since it had been an easy affair till now, none of the riders were tired. After some snacks & tea we headed to NAKO lake.
The lake was completely frozen & snow was shining like pearl. There was snow everywhere..... on lake, on fields, on road, in houses, eveywhere. See in any direction and the views are beautiful enought to sweep you off your feet. All cameras at work for next half an hour. Pictures were being taken from every possible angle, zoom range and what not. In my view-finder I suddenly spot Shaan walking on the lake. I paused but he didn't and kept walking. After covering half of the lake he said to me, "Bhaiya, meri ek aise pic kheecho."
5 mins later we all were jumping on the lake. Though my jump was combined with caution. Heavyweights don't take anything easily. Well after all the frolic & fun we returned to our dhaba and Mr. Dharampal was happily arranged bonfire for us. It was getting colder with every second.... extremely cold. The view of snow laden mountains was spectacular at night as well. I spent half an hour gazing at them and yet wasn't satisfied. I could hear words like long exposure & tripods, but preferred not to capture that sight. Somethings are beautiful because they are not accesible everywhere. The moonlight gave that extra dimension to already multi-dimensional landscapes around us.


2200hrs - All of us inside blankets, discussing about what we should expect for next day. It's going to be big.... ride to KAZA. That's what we were riding for. Eyes closed but dreams were white for the first time.



Some pics:

Somewhere OTR (on the road)


Near POOH


Bhagat Nallah


Enroute Nako... just after Kizags





Trees stand tall while snow is abundant at base


A hill in B&W


Nako as seen from Helipad


White & Frozen - Nako lake


Just before Sunset


Nako frozen lake


View from Dhaba


View from Dhaba


Just snow