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My inspiration for riding to Spiti!

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  • My inspiration for riding to Spiti!

    Everything has a beginning. So is the case with my love for riding to Spiti. It all began some two decades ago when I read this article of riding to Spiti on a Bajaj KB 100 RTZ by Bill Aitken in one of the then auto mags (sadly I don't remember the name of the mag and it shows nowhere in the pages I have) published in late 1990. Read it to get a feel of what it was like for motorcycle tourers in those days. Bill Aitken is a travel writer of repute who was born in Scotland but chose to make India and especially the Himalayas his home. His favorite steed was his trusty 1965 Jawa that he rode around the hills of India for quite a while. He later bought a KB100 RTZ to supplement 'Mary Poppins' as he called his Jawa. (Incidently the fact that I too had a KB100 RTZ Delta when I read this article made an all the more strong an impression on me. And 22 year old motorcyclists are prone to 'impressions' )

    An intrepid traveler on motorcycles, his laid back style of writing comes out well in this little incident quoted below by Aitken. It also features in his article that I have reproduced below.
    The above quote has been taken from this link here.

    This ride goes back to when petrol was about 10 bucks to a liter, almost all highways were single-laned without a divider, long distance telecons were limited to scarce STD booths and information about places like Ladakh and Spiti were through word of mouth or magazines/books. Those who have been to Spiti might find it funny to read that he rides from Chattru to Batal and calls it a day! But riders in those days had been brought up on a staple diet of the Rajdoot, Bullet or Yezdi. None of these were as reliable as the clockwork Jap machines nowadays and pushing the bike beyond its limts was always a concern. Read on to feel the sheer simplicity and candour of the narrative and rare will be one who will not wish for such times to be back again. Over to Bill.

    Trading Places by Bill Aitken
    I don't let my motorcycles interfere with my motorcycling...

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  • #2
    What a beautifully written article. Thank you for sharing this with us Old Fox. I had gone to Spiti in 1986 in a Jonga, with my grandfather on a geological expedition. THis just refreshed all those memories
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    • #3
      Beautiful memoirs of a journey taken when most of us didn't know anything of such untrodden places.
      I remember having read this article; or probably a similar other in my school days in Nainital.

      Spiti these days is not difficult as the bikes & other factors facilitate greatly towards undertaking a hassle free trip.... but I bow down to guys who mutted guts to visit such places at that time.

      Thanks for Sharing.
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      • #4
        woww --beautifully written

        I remember a small part reading about bill in footloose in the himalayas but wasn't aware of his dare devilry in spiti

        really nice & inspirational stuff for tourers like us
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        • #5
          this is completely marvellous, the tales from a traveller who explored these beautifull places on bike, when even riding in car to these places were just a dream.... shows a lot about the person

          Thank you OF Sir for sharing these beautiful moments with us. Its a blessing.

          Save the Earth - We are the one who are running out of time, as Earth will take it own time to heal but that time may not be enough for us.


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          • #6
            Great to know how the fire was started.

            He lives in the hill station of Mussoorie in the Lower Western Himalaya; the surrounding region has provided much of the material for his writings. He is the long-time companion of Prithvi Bir Kaur, the widowed former Maharani of the erstwhile Sikh princely state of Jind.
            Lete go to Mussoorie for a ride and meet this gentleman! What do you say!
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            • #7
              Originally posted by sammyboy76 View Post
              What a beautifully written article. Thank you for sharing this with us Old Fox. I had gone to Spiti in 1986 in a Jonga, with my grandfather on a geological expedition. THis just refreshed all those memories
              Must have been a memorable trip for you. Things have changed even in these far off lands over the years. And the change is not necessarily for the better.

              Originally posted by Abhishek2433 View Post
              Beautiful memoirs of a journey taken when most of us didn't know anything of such untrodden places.
              I remember having read this article; or probably a similar other in my school days in Nainital.

              Spiti these days is not difficult as the bikes & other factors facilitate greatly towards undertaking a hassle free trip.... but I bow down to guys who mutted guts to visit such places at that time.

              Thanks for Sharing.
              This had set me thinking and dreaming about riding to Spiti. And it had turned out just as difficult a ride when I did it. Chota Dara used to be a vehicle eater in the real sense then. Not that its a cakewalk even now though. Still 'Adventure' with a capital A .

              Originally posted by darkknight View Post
              woww --beautifully written

              I remember a small part reading about bill in footloose in the himalayas but wasn't aware of his dare devilry in spiti

              really nice & inspirational stuff for tourers like us
              He's also done the entire North-East, on the KB. I still remember a quote from his book: "After 12 hrs on the saddle of the KB, my rear was as hard and as feelingless as week-old frozen meat .

              Originally posted by Shivanshu View Post
              this is completely marvellous, the tales from a traveller who explored these beautifull places on bike, when even riding in car to these places were just a dream.... shows a lot about the person

              Thank you OF Sir for sharing these beautiful moments with us. Its a blessing.
              Yes, these guys were the originals I tell you.

              Originally posted by Sunny View Post
              Great to know how the fire was started.

              Lete go to Mussoorie for a ride and meet this gentleman! What do you say!
              Now THAT is a GREAT idea! Lets do it. Yes.
              I don't let my motorcycles interfere with my motorcycling...

              Join xBhp On

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              • #8
                Nothing but respect and awe!

                Beautifully written! Found myself transported into the ride.. Very challenging ride!

                Thanks for the article!
                Get ready for the ride! 24 Hours on a Bike...

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                • #9
                  Wonderfully penned OF Sir...

                  Agree with Sundeep on meeting Bill (An All India G2G in Mussoorie )

                  OF Sir, if you have the book Riding the Ranges: Travels on my Motorcycle by Bill Aitken please send me a photocopy as it is out of print.

                  Incase you find the same in a bookstore pick it up, I will personally ride down to your place to collect it

                  Hammer the racetrack. Pace yourself on the street.

                  IBA Number: 47054

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                  • #10
                    beautiful article sir.
                    It inspires even now. Its totally magical that how a travel log about roadtrip done on when i was only 4 month and 15 days old can inspire even after 21 years. Dust of time cant touch wanderer's spirit.

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                    • #11
                      truly inspiring article there!
                      BIKING ??? " A RELIGION "

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                      • #12
                        Ammazing article! Thank you very much for sharing OF sir. Can't even imagine how different and tough such must have been back then. Now a days we have all the information just a few clicks away. Comparatively better roads and connectivity options.
                        All I can say is 'This is the real adventure and Those are the real M/C tourers!' Thoroughly enjoyed reading it. Especially because soon we'll be in the same terrain, on the same route
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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by strider View Post
                          Wonderfully penned OF Sir...

                          Agree with Sundeep on meeting Bill (An All India G2G in Mussoorie )

                          OF Sir, if you have the book Riding the Ranges: Travels on my Motorcycle by Bill Aitken please send me a photocopy as it is out of print.

                          Incase you find the same in a bookstore pick it up, I will personally ride down to your place to collect it

                          Will be on the lookout for it Ajay. You could also search around a bit on torrent too. And your 'seriousness' of the need for the book is well taken by the words that 'you'll ride over to collect it'. Guess this is a good chance of catching up with you eh!

                          Originally posted by varun don View Post
                          beautiful article sir.
                          It inspires even now. Its totally magical that how a travel log about roadtrip done on when i was only 4 month and 15 days old can inspire even after 21 years. Dust of time cant touch wanderer's spirit.
                          Thanks Varun. And yes...the lore of the traveler is truly timeless.

                          Originally posted by ketan_r15 View Post
                          Ammazing article! Thank you very much for sharing OF sir. Can't even imagine how different and tough such must have been back then. Now a days we have all the information just a few clicks away. Comparatively better roads and connectivity options.
                          All I can say is 'This is the real adventure and Those are the real M/C tourers!' Thoroughly enjoyed reading it. Especially because soon we'll be in the same terrain, on the same route
                          Things sure have changed a lot Ketan, even in places like Ladakh and Spiti, over the past decade. These places used to be a big unknown in those days. And so needed a pretty resolute and somewhat crazy rider to ride to them.
                          I don't let my motorcycles interfere with my motorcycling...

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                          • #14
                            [QUOTE=Old Fox;606330]Will be on the lookout for it Ajay. You could also search around a bit on torrent too. And your 'seriousness' of the need for the book is well taken by the words that 'you'll ride over to collect it'. Guess this is a good chance of catching up with you eh! [QUOTE]

                            Indeed Sandeep Sir, always a pleasure to meet you, eagerly looking forward for it...soon
                            Hammer the racetrack. Pace yourself on the street.

                            IBA Number: 47054

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                            • #15
                              fantastic one sir..
                              truly inspirational..
                              now i eagerly wanna Ride in the Himalayas..

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