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Ride to the Old Silk Route: Daaran Ghati

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  • Ride to the Old Silk Route: Daaran Ghati

    Around a year ago I had read about a route from Rohru to Sarahan via something known as Daaran Ghati. Since then I was looking for a suitable time for this ride. I did nothing for last 2 months except eating, sleeping and sitting on office chair to meet the deadlines. The first week of June showed up on calendar along with lucky stars. Finally I managed to get a free weekend on 18-19 June. But I could not get even a few minutes for the Dark Knight. It was Friday when I put all my work on hold to get Him a basic health check up As Akram was also thinking of a weekend ride, both of us joined hands and started off at 3.45 AM.

    Day1: June 18, 2011
    Route: Chandigarh - Shimla - Narkanda - Baggi - Sungri - Taklech - Kareri - Daaran Pass 280 kms.

    As I woke up, I smelt moisture in the air and so was mentally prepared for the rains on the way but it came as early as we crossed Parwanoo. Though completely drenched in rain, we kept on going. Crossed entire stretch from Shogi to Dhalli in almost zero visibilty due to clouds and fog.
    As we were approaching Narkanda... The temperature kept of dipping and soon we were shivering out of cold. Just a few hours before I was sweated out like hell while just tying my back pack. We reached Narkanda around 9AM, As usual, we had a really long break here and grabbed couple of Parathas and a few teas, Changed shocks and purchased another pair of gloves. Then we started again and reached Sungri via Baggi at around 12.30 PM. A short tea break and we were good to move towards Taklech.
    On the way to Sungri there were so many small roads bifurcating in between. Some of these were leading to Rohru through villages. Sungri is a beautiful small hamlet with a beautifully built PWD rest house facing green valley. Road between Narkanda to Baggi is in Bad shape and then onwards till Sungri is a mix of good and bad. Now Sungri to Taklech is quite a beautiful route and good road except a few patches. At Taklech the road bifurcates to Nogli (near Rampur, approx 20 kms, good road) and to Daaran Ghati, which is around 40 kms. Approx half of this stretch is bad but really interesting and scenic. Last couple of kilometers to Daaran Ghati are just stone laded with many steep climbs in between which requires permutation and combination skills to identify the best possible line of traversing along with pro-activeness to manage front wheel lock among the boulders and stone. We crossed Kareri village through the green fields and orchards and reached Saraikoti Temple at around 4PM. Saraikoti temple is one of the most famous temples in the region, some 2 kms before Daaran Pass.


    A few kms before Shogi:




    Between Narkanda to Baggi:




    Under Construction road, On the way to Sungri from Baggi:




    On the way to Sungri from Baggi:




    Towards Sungri:




    witnessed fog again:




    PWD Rest House at Sungri:




    Flowers at PWD RH:




    As we proceeded towards Taklech from Sungri, witnessed this amazingly green route:










    On the Way to Taklech:




    Between Taklech and Kareri Village:




    Between Taklech and Kareri Village:




    Between Taklech and Kareri Village:




    Between Taklech and Kareri Village:




    Near Kareri:


    Akram's Black Beast:


    That's the traversed path:


    A Waterfall on the way after Kareri:


    A Water streem on the way, Between Taklech and Daaran Pass:

  • #2
    What a start of the day! Royale!

    Thanks for sharing this.

    Travelogue approved.
    (Been There Done That) x 3.25

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    • #3
      wow .. the place is stunning bro nature is too the heights
      Only a Biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.

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      • #4
        Amazingly beautiful place this seems to be good going, waiting for more

        Save the Earth - We are the one who are running out of time, as Earth will take it own time to heal but that time may not be enough for us.


        http://www.ridesafewith.me
        I dont just ride my bikes, I live with them.
        Yamaha RX100 (1987 model)
        Yamaha YZF R15 (2010 model)
        Hero Impulse (2012 model)
        Mahindra Thar (2015 model)
        GIRed 2012

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        • #5
          Originally posted by sunilg View Post
          What a start of the day! Royale!

          Thanks for sharing this.

          Travelogue approved.
          Thanks Sunil sir for appreciating.

          Originally posted by Naughty VaIsH View Post
          wow .. the place is stunning bro nature is too the heights
          Originally posted by Shivanshu View Post
          Amazingly beautiful place this seems to be good going, waiting for more
          Thanks Guys!

          Comment


          • #6
            Here is the view of crossing at Sungri. The road at the left of the temple goes towards Taklech:



            there were quite good and smooth but narrow roads near Kareri, but as we ascended further after a few sharp bends the roads started deteriorating. At last there were mere the stone laded path with green grass and trees at one side and a wide green valley at the other.
            These pics will give you an idea what I am talking about:




            After Kareri:














            The road that we covered:




            The road before Saraikoti Temple which is 2 kms before the top. One needs to do approx 1 hour trek to reach the temple:









            There are 4-5 interesting bad patches where we had to show our bike handling skills rather than riding skills before Saraikoti and same is the case from Saraikoti to Daaran Top.
            View from Saraikoti:



            Entering into the forest area of Daaran Ghaati:


            And here is Mr Bisht, not sure if he owns the Dhaba @ Saraikoti but one thing is sure that he is one of the most courteous person I have ever met. A small chit-chat about our ride and the place availed us a good cup of tea from him. (yes it was free).


            View from the dhaba. Our bikes parked at the left hand side in the pic:




            After thanking Mr Bisht for the tea, we left the place. A couple of kms and we were at the top. The joy of accomplishment cannot be shared in mere words. You have to do it to feel it. As Vaibhav has already told that there is a camp coming up at Daaran Pass with the name of "THe Hidden Himalayas" we found it just near the top and at the other side of the road where PWD rest house is built. Here is Mr Pankaj who came towards us just after seeing us there, one of the owners of the camp. We interchanged our introduction and decided to have a night halt in the camps only. Now let me tell you that Mr. Pankaj has PG Diploma in journalism and worked for around 5 years in Media team of Raid-de-Himalaya, left job to start his own settlement. These guys are working day and night for this and doing most of the stone and wood works by themselves. .


            The sky is filled with clouds and hence we cannot see those virgin peaks which are believed to be having divine powers.


            As the sun was setting from behind the clouds, after a quick recce around the camp area with Mr Pankaj, it was time to satiate our food glands and provide ourselves with much required fuel. I had Daal-Chawal while Akram preferred maggi. I ate as much as I could. After a really long walk with Akram and discussing most important topics of our lives, we entered our tents which were made ready on demand. Yes, because the camps are not well established yet.

            I have so many things to talk about the place, about the people there and their lifestyle, but right now I am getting impatient to visit dreamland. Will talk about it in the next post, perhaps tomorrow.

            Good Night Daaran Ghati



            __________________

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            • #7
              Wow! Nice ride and great pics Ranjeet..
              " I'd rather be hated for who I am, than loved for who I am not" - Kurt Cobain

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              • #8
                Awesome, simply awesome. Some of the paradise on earth has been unleashed. No words to describe the beauty of the places.
                Skill is what keeps you on a Motorcycle
                Awareness + Skill is what keeps you out of harm's way
                ATGATT + Awareness + Skill means you might Live To Ride another day

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                • #9
                  amazingly beautiful Place, Pics and details way to go Ranjeet... enjoyed from heart
                  http://picasaweb.google.com/tilkusoni
                  A good traveler has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving. lao tzu
                  Travel HARD or STAY at Home........

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                  • #10
                    You guys are fantastic! Awesome pictures and the landscape surrounding with mountain really inviting! Do they also called Heaven on Earth?
                    RX100 1996 | Karizma 2004 | Karizma-R 2011 | RXZ 1999 | RX 135 1998 | RX 100 1993 | CBF150 2005 - 2011

                    2012 - Meghamalai | Kuttralam | 2011 Ooty | Munnar | 2010 Point Calimere | Horsley Hills | Yercaud

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by kurtrules View Post
                      Wow! Nice ride and great pics Ranjeet..
                      Thanks Vaibhav, it was your feedback only which forced me to visit the place so early

                      Originally posted by aargee View Post
                      Awesome, simply awesome. Some of the paradise on earth has been unleashed. No words to describe the beauty of the places.
                      Thanks mate!

                      Originally posted by tilak_soni73 View Post
                      amazingly beautiful Place, Pics and details way to go Ranjeet... enjoyed from heart
                      Thank you Tilak sir!

                      Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post
                      You guys are fantastic! Awesome pictures and the landscape surrounding with mountain really inviting! Do they also called Heaven on Earth?
                      Thanks for apreciating

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Day2: June 19, 2011
                        Route: Daaran Pass - Mashnoo - Rampur - Narkanda - Kufri - Chail - Junga - Sadhupul - Kandaghat - Chandigarh 280 kms

                        We slept around 9 while Mr Pankaj and his team kept on working for the roof of their restaurant. I woke up around 6:30 while Akrma was still snoring
                        All our hopes to see those virgin peaks went in vein when I found yet another foggy morning. No scope of sunlight or views... slept again, but not before capturing the foggy morning from within the tent.



                        Just after a few minutes, Akram started talking and hence, I had no option but to get up.
                        By the time we packed our stuff and tied on our bikes, fog dissolved but still there is no sign of distant views because of cloud cover.



                        Our Tents. Akram posing for the pic but a bad poser he is



                        Meanwhile Mr Pankaj also woke up and a brief discussion about the breakfast settled on Parathas. Pankaj's helper, nick named as 'Shepherd' was cooking for us. Because of bad lights yesterday, we coulds not capture the place, the actual old silk route (as told by Pankaj and his other friends) well, hence we left with our beloved digicams until the Parathas are being cooked.

                        The other kachcha rasta leading into the forest just at the top is believed to be the ancient silk route, as told by the local. We decide to ride inside upto where we could but it was closed just after a few hundred meters because of large stones on the way. Since we did not want to detour much, we left the stones as intact and came back to the open grassland which we found a few meters back. These small patches of grass are known as "Thaach" in local language.

                        Daaran Pass, approx 3100 Mts



                        PWD Rest House in the Background, behind the bikes:


                        Towards the so called, Old Silk Route








                        Intermittent sunlight was providing much required effect for better pics



















                        Now let me tell you something about the place and the lifestyle of people there. There is a village known as "Kaasha Paath", some 4-5 hours trek away is one of the remotest or may be the remotest village of Himachal. It is believed that the people of village have walked for hours with rucksacks filled with soil on their back to prepare their fields for farming because the village is situated on the rocks. And you will be surprised to know that there is a FRH too at Kasha Path

                        The second mysterious thing about the place is the virgin "Runpoo Peaks", yet to be conquered by any human being. It is also known as "Paap-Punya" peaks. Being the "Kalyug Era" Paap is higher than Punya

                        We kept an eye on the peaks but of no use, cloud cover was always there to refrain us from one of the most scenic view of the region

                        Now let me tell you that there are still few nomadic people/families in the region who end their approx one year long journey at the same place every year. The entire keep on roaming in Himalayas through out the year along with their herds of sheep, goats and cattle, which are there true assets. Apart from the nomadic people. There are still a custom of having a large number of cattle among the people of the region and in Kinnaur also. The person with maximum number of cattle is called "Maaldaar" The number of cattle may count starting from a few hundreds to thousands.

                        Another interesting thing is about the shepherd's life. An experienced person from the village is appointed as a shepherd who has to take all the cattle in the village to the meadows for a period ranging from couple of weeks to the whole year. In the name of food, these people generally carry rice to have it with the milk which is readily available (being along with the cattle). Pankaj's helper (Mr Shepherd) has also been to the same life for around one year. He crossed Bashal Peak (at Sarahan) then entered Kinnaur and crossed Bhawa Pass and Glaciers in winter to reach Pin Valley. on the way back he has to take another route as the glaciers were melting. He spent around a week in Pin valley with the herd. Another amazing fact is that each owner can identify his/her sheep/goat just by a look.
                        As we were back from the photo shoot and waiting for the parathas, a small herd of some 750 cattle was passing by. A guy with 4 dogs was looking after them. Pankaj told me that this guy is going to Sarahan and perhaps we will him somewhere near Mashnoo on our way back. And he was perfectly right. We did found the herd just after we crossed Mashnoo.
                        One thing I missed is the role of dogs in the herd. The guy was having 4 dogs, 2 of them were almost in front and 2 at the back of the herd. In short the dogs were driving and giving direction to the herd and of course protecting them. Sometimes, the shepherd carries a gun and may be on a horse also.



                        phew... That was some long conversation... all this was talked about with Pankaj while waiting for the Parathas... The wait which was never ending. It took 2 good hours of ours.

                        After quickly grabbing the parathas and 2 round of teas, we were all set to embark back on the roads, but not before couple of round of thanksgiving to our host. The guys have been working hard for our comfort and so its my duty to support them the way I can,i.e. financially. Whatsoever we discussed since we met, this was the first time we talked about money. Now please dont ask me about the amount paid as it really doesn't matter. at least for me who has his promotion pending just because I cannot find a couple of days to study because of the obvious reason





                        We left the place with a heavy heart. But were excited enough as the route ahead was passing through the forest. A sheer bliss it was.

                        It was already 11 o'clock. As per our plan, we were late by approx 2 good hours. Hence we decided to skip Mashnoo - Sarahan and took road to Rampur fom Mashnoo, for that We had to take a left from the first bifurcation.
                        On the way to Mashnoo:


                        Daaran Ghati to Mashnoo:


                        Spectacular trees, Near Mashnoo:


                        A shot between Masnoo to Rampur:


                        That's all we could see in the name of Snow peaks at Daaran Ghati:


                        Asked about the route at Mashnoo with a passing by couple. Here was another surprise... instead of replying to our query the lady inquired whether we had meal or not... Amazing people of Himachal, otherwise who cares about who are you on the road.

                        Important Info:
                        HP Tourism's official tourist map shows wrong distances. Actual Distances are:

                        Taklech - Daaran Pass : 40 kms
                        Daaran Pass - Mashnoo : 12 kms
                        Mashnoo - Rampur : 25/30 kms
                        Mashnoo - Sarahan : approx 30 (as told by locals)






                        Rest of the journey was non happening except one thing that We took a detour to Chail from Kufri to avoid Shimla and another unknown detour to "Junga" a few kilometers before Chail which took us directly to Sadhupul in mere 20 kms. Now let me tell you that this route via Junga is equally scenic as the Sadhupul to Chail route.

                        As we ascended to Barog after Solan, found Sunny uncle bidding us a really cool good bye... and so we called off the day but not before 9PM. thanks to the never ending traffic jam yet again, but this time, it started just after we crossed Dharampur railway crossing.

                        Good Night XBhpians, Thanks for the company and reliving the journey with me:


                        Cheers!
                        Ranjeet

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                        • #13
                          Great log Ranjeet...
                          The Fastest Indian!!

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                          • #14
                            awesome....superb pics........man.......wonderful ride........cheers
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                            • #15
                              Ranjeet bhai its just amazing.... beautiful narration of the untouched beauty of Himalayas

                              Save the Earth - We are the one who are running out of time, as Earth will take it own time to heal but that time may not be enough for us.


                              http://www.ridesafewith.me
                              I dont just ride my bikes, I live with them.
                              Yamaha RX100 (1987 model)
                              Yamaha YZF R15 (2010 model)
                              Hero Impulse (2012 model)
                              Mahindra Thar (2015 model)
                              GIRed 2012

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