superb pictures there brother!! Good luck ahead!

Thanks brother

post deleted.....

Day4: Kargil – Panihkar – Rangdum : 130 Km(approx)
The Suru Valley

Please help yourselves with pics of the day which are on my last post

We started from Kargil at around 8 am and tankedup at Kargil itself.
Initial 25 kms from Kargil to Sanku village was very good.Beautiful 2 lane tarmac road with lots of vegetation around.

We entered Suru valley soon and what a place it was.The geen looked greener.We could see ice capped mountain in visinity.

The roads suddenly vanished after Sanku.Initially it took toll on my body and spirit too.But then I recalled the saying of a friend of mine who happens to be a great tourer. He had told me "Dont bother about the roads, bad roads are part of journey and one should learn to enjoy it."

He had told me years back but this was the first time I realized its meaning.There on it was all fun.the roads never bothered me again and infact I started enjoying the sand and the pebbles and the unending dirt tracks.

I really liked the Suru valley, soon we reached a havenly spot, though the pics doesnt portray even 10% of real beauty but the place was just awesome.Without any doubt I moved off-road and reached the river side which was surrounded with green pastures, icy mountains, sheeps and what not. This place was just a few mile before Panikhar village.


Soon we reached Panikhar, we were hungry but there were no hotels.The villagers guided us to the J&K Guest house which is just beside the min road.
It was beautiful villa.And to our astonishment the charges were just 200 for double bed room.The caretakers were really hospitable and they suggested that we wait and until he prepares lunch for us.Within 1 hr we had our lunch and we moved ahead at around 12:30 pm.
BTW,there are many beautiful camping spots before Panikhar.

As we moved ahead the roads worsened and the landcsape became more and more beautiful.I took so many breaks and at time I would just stop and sit for 10 mins admiring the beauty.

Thankfully my riding partner was patient enough to wiat for me ahead.
We were riding on hop on basis rather than riding togather.But at times when there were some hurdle we would stick togather.

Near Nun Kun Glacier we were riding togather when suddenly we saw some stones shooting from the cliff on to the road.It wasn't severe but we were worrying that it might be just the begining of a big landslide.We moved back and waited for some time. Thankfully it wasn't a landslide but just shooting stone.We moved ahead with higher level of adrenaline after experiencing these.

At around 3-4 the dark clouds started chasing us, and winds become bitterly cold.We put our rain gears and here on we wanted to reach Rangdum asap.But there were no signs of Rangdum in visinity. At one point the clouds gave up and whether was again clear.

Soon we reached Rangdum and the first site was the sight of the lovely J&K Govt guest house.No no signs of caretaker.I roamed around in village and soon I found caretakers house and also invitaions but other villagers for home stay.

We opted for Govt. guest house. It was a beautiful place to spent night but the problem was that there was no water, no food nothing available there.
We went to a hotel in the village for food.We had maggy and tea ther and we ordered for dinner too.In the mean time we went to the policestation which was just beside the hotel to charge our camera batteries and stuff.

There were only a few gentlemen in the police station.Initially they refused as they were apprihensive that charging our batteries might discharge their Solar battery which was their only hope of light :P

But they aggreed and sooon my laptop cam battery etc were on charging.We sat in the outer room and there on started the long interaction with them.
they were really nice to us and I dont think I had or will meet a more friendly Policeman.

He told us about their hardship in winter when there is snow al round.The valley is totally cut off and if someone is ill mostly he/she would die before help can arrive.
One guy in chowky was very anxious about getting photographed and soon the session started.One after other everyone should their desire to get clicked.Then some sessions on my Pulsar. Finally the head of station, who until now was pretending to be non-intrested asked for his turn :P. Then he told told that let his dress up. He opened his suitcase and dressed up in Police wardi.After pomising them that I will send them their pics in nearby postoffice(panikhar), we moved for dinner.The dinner was awesome.

The mistake we did was that we didnt wore warm clothes properly while we went out in evening.It did took toll on our body.

AMS
The bed was very comfortable with a huge blanket.I slepot healthy but the cold didn't let me sleep and by mid night I was under mild AMS attack.
It was mild just sleeplessness and mild headache.in the morning 6 am I tool 1 Dimox pill and slept for another 1 hr.Man it worked I was feeling better.

Next day we winessed one of the most beautiful mountain pass...ya no prize for guessing...its Penzing La.


Kargil town


















It was amzing to see childern going to scheel in the remote part of country.
Infact there we plenty of kids.
These guys were filling water in a reserviour in school from the streams.


Beautiful camping ground near Panikhar








Guest house










One of the best plain food I had. Simple yet tasty and he made is sooo quickly.




Another beautiful spot in Suru Valley.
this pic hardly portray the real beauty.




The place where we expirienced the shooting stones.


This was the first time we had such huge ice capped mountains.
Mazza aa gaya tha




though there were not many flowers as we went little aearly in season but we could find some.


Signs of Rangdum after a loooong gap.




Clouds closing in.





Marmots: They were in plenty and were quite bold.Posing around.


josh me aake slope pe chad gaya to take this pic but then after climbing I was out of breadth.
I was almost exhausted after this shot.










The energetic kids of Rangdum.man they were really smart and notty too.


While we were catching our breath they were running around.




Our hotel.Nice food and great hospitality.
He even gave us is flask for the night to store warm water.


Nice man from a great place








Yours truly and the man whole triggrred the photo sessions.


Policestation head and Ashutosh


Helper


Mere bike ko kabhi itni izzat nahi mila...Dil bhar aaya :P




Another police personal but he was from some other place and well acquanted with mordern world.

Zanskar Valley Coming Next...

Amazing Route and an Amazing log. waiting for more.

Nice pics buddy

Absolutely stunning Kashif bro ! The pics took my breath away ! Kudos man !

Good Luck & Keep Riding Safe !

Thanks guys!!!

Day5: Rangdum – Padum : 134 Kms

We were already late for the day as I was under AMS last night.Though I felt better after taking Diamox but still I wasn't fit.
We decided to keep extra luggage in randum GH only.Our initial plan was to return back to rangdum the same day after visiting Padum but after doing Kargil - rangdum I was sure we were hoping against hope.

The day started at 8-8:30 afte having maggi. The initial 10-15 kms from rangdum was nice gravel road in the valley.Then started the ascent to Penzing La.The roads full of gravel/stones but the incline was gentle.As I moved up the AMS was back again with severe headache this time.I was really feeling sad as I wanted to explore this region and at the very beginning my health was deteriorating.

Damm I was really frustrated,the wind got colder as we climbed up, there were so many beautiful places my headache and cold restricted me from stopping.
I was actually loosing my ability just judge direction, I was climbing like a puzzled man.Infact when I started from Rangdum I could not even locate the hotel for 5-6 mins.we spent so much time last evening there.

I was just sitting on my bike trying to understand which direction should I go.
That time I didn't had much headache.Anyone else faced this kind of problem before?

It might sound funny now but at that moment I was in a mess.Just few days in mountains and I was being reminded about the mightiness of the Himalayas by none other than the nature.

Today when I write all these I hardly remember when and how I reached Pening La top.I was so focused(maybe) just to keep riding.

Once I reached the Penzing La top the mesmerizing beauty of the glacier did the magic.I was energetic again,something chemical locha happened I was out in the field with my cam The place was just too beautiful to describe.
For a naive like me it was a window to heaven.It was cold there but the weather was clear.
The thrill of reaching an isolated place just adds to the excitement.

We started climbing down, and soon we reached Zanskar village.
By this time headache got milder but I became sure that returning back to Rangdum was no more an option if we want to see zanskar properly.

We did another mistake of not carrying our luggage and we missed to carry water,food and most of the tools too.We were on the mercy of gods and thankfully gods were with us.

The view of zanskar was majestic.

I saw a couple of houses beside the road. I went to their house to ask some water.They gave us water and also asked I we would like they can prepare tea for us. While the tea was getting prepared I had a long discussion with Ashutosh regarding the night halt for the day.Finally we agreed to extend our stay in this region for a day.That meant we can take as many stops as we wanted.
The farmer got us tea. it was tasty.When I went to pay for the tea the humble ladakhi man refused it say we dont charge the guests.I insisted but he was reluctant. But finally I made him accept it after lots of convincing.

This was the point when I realized that I have moved in some different world.Is it the place that has made them so humble? It took me good 30 mins of ride to digest this.now I was even more happy that I choose zanskar.

We saw a lot of beautiful places before we reached Padum.
The 10-12 kms before padum is nice tarred road.And I tell you, the tarmac never felt better than this.We booked one room on J&K Tourist bungalow.

The room was nice with electricity as well as water.Its the best I could get for 200 bucks.

We went out our Lunch cum evening snacks, later we we visited a cyber cafe too.Be aware guys, the changes in Padum is rs120 per hour.(I wish I had asked before using the service)

When we got out for dinner at around 9ish I guess the streets were deserted.Some how we manage to find a hotel(Aliased as UP wale ka hotel)

Some gentlemen informed us that it snowed at Penzing La this evening.

Padum is a nice town with all basic facilities and lots of hotels too. There is a bus service from Kargil to Padum and if I remember right even to Leh(not sure on Leh). it was warmer in Padum compared to Rangdum. But I liked the wilderness of Rangdum more.
By the time I reached Padum I was perfectly fine.

With high hopes for next day and woolen socks in feet I felt asleep.

Some pics:


Some pics:

Drang Drung Glacier.






Pretty Ladakhi lady





Unending roads






While I was on my biggest adventure travel, the little girl Ming and her father smiles at me while waiting for some vehicle that can take her to school.Yes for today this truck is her school bus.

Life isn't as easy as god has given us.Be happy and thank almighty.
This was what Zanskar taught me.

We started from Padum and were looking to reach Panikhar but the evening.
We took some shortcuts while returning. At one point while going through one of the shortcut we ended up in front of a big stream in the valley.As we had already travelled more than 3-4 kms off the main track so there was no going back.This is where we did our first major water crossing.

We reached penzeng La again. This time I decided to spent some more time.I took a walk close to the glacier.
After shotoshoots we moved ahead.five kms before rangdum there is a beautiful Gompa.I took some pics and reached rangdum.
The caretaker was worried as we had plans to come back yesterday itself.
We packed our luggage and started for Panikhar. As we had already spent lot of time on these roads so there we lesser beaks.

At one point suddenly tarmac road started.We were confused that how come we forgot this tarmac which we had traveled just 2 days back.It continued for almost 10-15 kms. Utterly confused we asked a lot of villagers.Finally we came to know that what we traveled while coming was the road from other side of valley.Soon we reached panikhar.

I am still not sure where these two roads met but somehow we were back on our regular broken road.As we had reached early so we decided to move to kargil.Soon we reached Sanku.This is the last place in Kargil to Padum section where lots of hotel and other supplies are available.There is a tourist bungalow in Sanku too.Also the roads from Sanku uptil kargil is very good.

After some maggi we started for kargil, here on there were a lot of villages and green farms accompanied with nice curvy roads.The ride ended at kargil for the day.

This time we searched a budget hotel and found a decent one for just 500 bucks.


Overall I felt this ride to Suru and Zanskar was highly satiating. In fact after this section were not many places that excited me more than this.
By the time I reached Kargil I had already made up my mind to plan another trip totally dedicated to Suru and Zanskar.

Some more pics(These pics are a mix of the pics I took in Suru Zanskar and return):

dude.. im spamming your travelogue here.. just can't stop looking at your itinerary... you have done the mother of all routes... if you had included spiti .... then you could have Completed every route at the top end of India....
Please include as much info about the route and other possible routes you had considered.

- Ananth

Amazing Captures Kashif Bhai.Aur aane do

There are still so many routes left yaar.
Himachal will given spl treatment in next trip

I am attaching a map with route details of Changthang that I followed hope this helps.PM me if you need specific info.




Thanks bhai

This serves the purpose. Thanks a lot.