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**SKSy_Biker** · 07-21-2011, 08:58 AM

Travelogue approved

**Ananth** · 07-21-2011, 09:26 AM

Very beautiful pictures! And well narrated log too!

Makes me feel jealous for you guys based out of Delhi / Chd - Snow capped mountains are so nearby

Awaiting the next lot !

**daredemon** · 07-21-2011, 09:31 AM

Beautiful Pics !!!!

I hope you must have sensed the feel of satisfaction after completing the ride....

**Hyperion** · 07-21-2011, 11:56 AM

Amazing pictures dude! Looks like an awesome trip.

**sharath.chandra29** · 07-21-2011, 08:30 PM

Wow, this trip really jogged some fresh memories in my mind. I did a trip through Kinnaur and Spiti in May and some of the pictures you've taken are exactly the same as the ones that I have. The carpets of green are a beautiful new addition, I am very envious of you, eagerly awaiting your next update!

**princesirohi** · 07-21-2011, 10:51 PM

superb pics man, and ofcourse...wonderful trip.

**TheRoyale** · 07-21-2011, 11:37 PM

Originally posted by SKSy_Biker View Post

Travelogue approved

thanks SK for approving it

Originally posted by Ananth View Post

Very beautiful pictures! And well narrated log too!

Makes me feel jealous for you guys based out of Delhi / Chd - Snow capped mountains are so nearby

Awaiting the next lot !

Thanks Ananth,
We are living in a cosmopolitan world man, come and settle in north

Originally posted by daredemon View Post

Beautiful Pics !!!!

I hope you must have sensed the feel of satisfaction after completing the ride....

Satisfied but I am still longing for more. what to do?

Originally posted by Hyperion View Post

Amazing pictures dude! Looks like an awesome trip.

yeah it was one of its kinda ride

Originally posted by sharath.chandra29 View Post

Wow, this trip really jogged some fresh memories in my mind. I did a trip through Kinnaur and Spiti in May and some of the pictures you've taken are exactly the same as the ones that I have. The carpets of green are a beautiful new addition, I am very envious of you, eagerly awaiting your next update!

Thanks Sarath, m glad that u liked it.

Originally posted by princesirohi View Post

superb pics man, and ofcourse...wonderful trip.

Thanks you prince!

guys, next part is coming soon

**hitanshu** · 07-22-2011, 04:52 AM

Verry naice pics and a lovely pace in the hills. Pray keep up the pikchas posting pace too!!

**TheRoyale** · 07-22-2011, 10:23 PM

Originally posted by hitanshu View Post

Verry naice pics and a lovely pace in the hills. Pray keep up the pikchas posting pace too!!

thanks Hitanshu, next part is just a few seconds away.

**TheRoyale** · 07-22-2011, 10:28 PM

Day2, July 13, 2011: Puh-Shipki-La-Nako:

To compensate last night’s sleep, I dozed off with no alarm. Somehow I managed to leave my bed at 8.30 and left Puh by 9.45 but not before couple of Parathas and strong teas. I was having goose bumps just by thought of conquering Shipki-La. I discussed the same with PWD guys and there response was too negative. The caretaker even told me that people who are found there without appropriate permission are handed over to the civilian police at Puh, after hearing this I though to give-up for a moment, but then again a nomadic soul overpowered the dumb human mind and so I left Puh without any fear of being caught, because I believe in the philosophy of being true and that is the easiest way to conquer the toughest.

Entering the Restricted Zone:

The right side bifurcation, a few kms after the Dubling bridge will lead to Namgya while the straight will take you to the famous Khab Bridge which is the confluence of Satluj and Spiti rivers. If you keep on the road to Namgya, you will get Khab Garrission’s welcome gate, just ignore it and keep riding until someone stops you and hadover to the Police

The Questionnaire:
I was mentally prepared for any situation and so kept on riding till Dogri Post where I had to stop because drivers of a truck and a dozer are greeting each other. A man in uniform approached towards me at the same time and enquired about my presence there.

Me: Jai Hind sir!
Soldier: Jai Hind, kahan ja rahe ho? (where are you going?)

Me: upar jar aha hui, top pe (I am going to the top?)
Soldier: Why?

Me: Aise hi ghoomne aaya huin. (I am on a tour.)
Soldir: Permission hai? (Do you have Permission?)

Me; Nahi, Main Recong Peo gaya tha, but unhone mana kar diya, bola civilians allowed nahi hain waha. Unhone kaha Dogri jaa ke baat kar lena agar allow kar denge to chale jaana. (No, I went to Recong peo but they denied saying civilians are not allowed there. Still you can request at Dogri post and try your luck)
Soldier: Rasta bahut kharab hai aage ka. (The road is very bad ahead)

Me: Bike to chali jayegi na? (Bike can go?)
Soldir: yes.

Me: Fir kahan kharab hai? (then what’s bad in it?)
Soldier: Thik hai, jao. (OK, you may go.)

Showering Luck:

As soon as I heard those two words, I did not wait even for fraction of a second. I just disappeared from there. So far the roads were comfy, no matter, if I was crawling in 2nd or 3rd gear. A few kms more after Dogri and there I was struggling in 1st and 2nd gear. There were couples of patches where even half clutch in first gear was struggling to take me ahead, but who can deviate and Indian from his mission except the Indian Army; The Dark Knight was strong enough to encounter the Dragon and so was I. After approx 45 mins of riding I reached the place where blasting was halted for an army truck to cross and so I was also through towards the top. It seems the luck was showering from the heavens on that day.

For the uninitiated, let me tell that Shipki-La is a border pass at 4000mts asl. As per wikipedia:

“Shipkila is a mountain pass and border post on the India-China border. It is through this pass which the river Sutlej enters India (from Tibet).
It is located in Kinnaur district in the state of Himachal Pradesh, India, and Tibet Autonomous Region in People's Republic of China. The pass is India's third border post for trade with China after Nathula in Sikkim, and Lipulekh in Uttarakhand. The pass is close to town of Khab.”

Shipki-La also falls on the age old Hindustan-Tibet Road and was an important trade roure.

Life at Shipki-La:

Another 30 mins of riding and I reached the road end with a wide valley in front of it. The time was approx 12.30 by then. Two Jawans approached towards me and the same round of enquiries. Once they were assured of me, welcomed this Indian full heartedly. Then I was taken to Subedar Hansraj Singh, where I had a glass of ginger tea along with loads of chit chat about the place. The low oxygen level there causes many soldiers to wake up and sit for hours in the night. In daytime there are sand filled storms to make their job tougher. The only water source on the entire mountain is some 7-8 kms down from where I was coming.
3 laborers from North India were also working there for some construction etc who earn INR400 a day. The contractor pays them. I also got privilege to have my lunch with the Jawans. I was given 6 chapatis, rice, pulses and beans’ veg.

Some Facts about Shipki-La:
After having lunch it was time for a recce to the area. Granadier Shailesh accompanied me to the other side of the settlement where I could see the wire fencing just a few feet ahead. There I met Mr Dev from ITBP who was in continous patrolling the area and recording the activities happening at the other side of the fencing. As told by Jawans, The Shipki village, presently in China was handed over to them after the villagers requested Indira Gandhi for the same as they were having their land in China while houses in India, strange but true. Few people from near by region like Namgya, Puh etc. can go to Shipki village for trade purposes on special occasions only after showing there Trade Passes which are issued only to the selected persons and after recommendation from Home Ministry. There is an annual trade fare held when people from each country exchange goods and other utilities. There is a gate for crossing the border. Since we are at the higher side of the mountains, Indian Army has advantage of height in several things.
I could see meandering Satluj flowing-in towards India just couple of thousands feet below. Inhabitation of Shipki village was behind the ridge, all I could see from this side was a patch of green as the proof of inhabitation.

Another interesting thing was the IB Nullah. A nullah flowing from a side mountain is serving as a border mark; it means this side of Nullah is Indian soil while the other side is Chinese. Now tell me who will own this Nullah

After spending sometime with Mr Shailesh and Dev at the Border, I came back to Subedar Hansraj’s room to thank him for the courtesy, protecting our land and wish him good luck but he was not there, headed towards kitchen but no luck. Rather than wandering to the unknown places, I decided to head back to where the Dark Knight was resting. I left the top by 2.30, had to wait for 30 min amidst the sand storm until the path blocked because of blasting was getting cleared by the dozer.

The Trouble while getting down from Shipki-La:
As I crossed Dogri post, felt some issue with the balance of the bike. As expected it seemed a puncture. Got the pump out, put in some air and cruised towards Dubling for the Puncture wala, no luck here so I have no option than to ride few more kms and get it done at Puh. The mechanic has told me that it’s a valve issue and he has corrected it, I relied on him and did not enquire much, which was a big mistake on this trip. A merchant there is having the trade pass which I captured in my cam.

I managed to click a few snaps around Shipki-La, but this being an important Army Base, I am posting anly a few:

View from PWD rest house, Puh:

Ascend to Shipki-La:

Namgya village in deep down:

On the way to Shipki-La:

A Temple at Armi Base at Shipki-La Top:

That's Tibet(China). Meandering Satluj flows-in into India from here:

Meet Grenadier Shailesh from Indian Army:

And Mr Dev from ITBP:

Truly Yours

Durga top at right in the background:

Sliding ice on this mountain is IB(international border) nullah:

A flower at Shipki-La, which attracts too many insects:

On the way back from Shipki-La:

The Dark Knight with Chameli:

got the valve correction here

Indo-Tibet trade pass:

**pavan_cin** · 07-23-2011, 04:06 PM

Gr8 Trip. Very nice photos.

Pictures quality is excellent

**zayn** · 07-23-2011, 11:12 PM

Ah Loving it

awesome narration and wonderful pics

**ketan_r15** · 07-23-2011, 11:57 PM

Just Fantastic..! Subscribed

**prashantbhardwaj** · 07-25-2011, 11:45 AM

Amazing log till now buddy...
Shipki-La is covered beautifully... Loved your narration as well

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The Trans Himalayas and the Dragon

The Trans Himalayas and the Dragon

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