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**Haroon** · 01-24-2012, 05:30 PM

Thanks beruoist, nelson, henri, MG & princesirohi.

@rachitkohli, Thanks. Sorry to hear about what happened to you. Infact cape town and almost all of the places we went thru were absolutely safe. Besides, I always depend on what the locals advise us.

@ Ananth. Thanks again. Its one trip at a time...so the next trip wherever is some time away, but I am not sure of australia as New Zealand is in my distant plans. Ofcourse, as always any gyan that I can distribute I will be glad to share with you all

**Haroon** · 01-24-2012, 05:36 PM

DAY-1 15 December (Cape Town to Paarl)

Assorted video collection from Day 1

SOUTH AFRICA BIKE TRIP DEC 2011- DAY 1 - YouTube

After catching a good nights sleep, a nice breakfast, loads of excitement, at 9am I head off in a taxi with my riding gear in hand to Motoberlin Rentals located in the BMW Pavillion at the V&A Waterfront to pick up my bike.

Lobby of our B&B

I meet Danie & Lawrence at the basement of the BMW Pavillion where the Motoberlin office is located. Outside the third & most important member of our trip, a clean and shiny 2010 BMW R1200RT is awaiting me with a smile!

That’s Lawrence from Motoberlin

The BMW Pavillion in the background. This complex hosts the Atlantic BMW bike showroom as well as the 2 separately owned BMW rental outfits

In the basement parking, my lone RT is surrounded by numerous R1200 & F800GS enduro touring bikes (that instantly tells me SA is a dirt touring haven). We quickly go thru the formalities and inspect the bikes for all the minor scuffs and marks from earlier renters and finally I am all set to ride off. I rented the GPS (the older model Zumo550) and Lawrence pairs it to my own Bluetooth Scala Rider Intercom headset, which I will inaugurate for this trip. I head to my B&B, where my wife is waiting to load our essentials into the 3 hardcases and one tank bag. By the time we load and check-out its already 11:30am.

The official trip kick-off picture- Don’t we look very excited? But read the next paragraph……!

We gear up and as we switch on the intercom, BOOM nothing is happening!! After about 40-50 ‘can u hear me, can u hear me…..’ tries, we just give up and decide to take off (Indeed I had tested it back home in bangalore & all had worked very well so I was Puzzled & Pissed). I am very disappointed while my lady gives her customary silence (married guys should know what that dreadfully means!!!). How are we going to travel the next 8 days with no communication. I used all the choices of #$%@# words on Scala Rider as I had discarded our old but still usable cable type Chatterbox intercom for the plush Scala Rider whatever…. I suddenly spotted the Harley dealership and decided to give one last shot at asking if they can help. The ‘specialist’ there was not familiar with Scala Rider and hence we left. Then it suddenly dawned on me that the pairing of my GPS with the Scala could have…..I disabled the GPS and BINGO, I suddenly hear my wife on the intercom. WOW…we are back in business! Then comes the next challenge- my GPS is showing the route but seems to be running way ahead of me…(seems to be on simulated mode!) long story short, by the time we are out of cape town its well past 1:00 pm and I know we have lots of scenic riding along the way (means more photo stops).

We take the M6 highway passing spectacular vistas of the beautiful blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean on the right and the iconic Table Mountain, Signal Hill and Lions head on the left. Mile to mile the view only got better. We pass Three Anchor Bay, Sea Point, Bantry Bay, Camps Bay, Hout Bay (where we stop at KFC for a quick lunch as we are running way behind schedule).

Football fans should be familiar with that structure….

With our stomachs full and a few more kms of riding, we reach the start of the spectacular Chapmans Peak Drive (Toll fees for motorcycle- Rand 20). At Chapmans Drive the unending long sweepers, turns, climbs, descends, all with the sheer drops below to the massive Atlantic Ocean on the right and towering mountains rising above you on the left is a dream ride for any biker. At one of the view points here we decide to stop for some photos and coincidentally to our pleasant surprise, with a crew of about 15-20, a bollywood movie is being shot at the edge of a cliff and the hero is none other that Mr. Saif Ali Khan. Some of the crew see the Indian flag on our bike and come to meet us. Nagaraj a crew member from my city of Bangalore is thrilled to meet us many thousands of kms away from home and we instantly exchange pleasantaries in our local Kannada language and their mobiles clicking off our pics. So we also momentarily feel like celebrities being photographed!!!

Chapmans Peak Drive Toll booth

Video of our ride on Chapmans Peak Drive

RIDE ON CHAPMAN'S PEAK, SOUTH AFRICA DEC 2011 - YouTube

Bollywood star Saif Khan shooting movie ‘Cocktail’ (in blue T-shirt with his back to us)

Crew member Nagaraj from our home city of Bangalore

Anyway, we are already running very late and hence we take some pics and leave Mr. Khan to go about his business undisturbed and turn inland for some more distance passing African art shops, farmland etc.

After a few more kms, we enter the Cape of Good Hope National Park, (Entry Fee per person Rand 85) thru which we head to Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope, BTW, this is only the southern most part of western part of Africa and NOT the southernmost part of the African continent (ha ha….now I also double up as your new geography teacher!). Here again the views are jaw dropping with the waves from the blue waters of the Atlantic ocean violently striking against the jagged edges of the numerous rock formations on the coastline. After a few pics including an ostrich family running like headless chicken(!) on the road, we head back out of the National Park thru the M4 highway on eastern side of the western cape.

HEADING TO CAPE POINT

The M4 takes us thru yet again scenic route with the ocean on the right side passing thru Boulder (Penguin colony), Simons Town, Fish Hoek etc. By then its already sunset time and we still have a long way to go for the day.

We pass False Bay with its white sandy beaches in twilight and after a while turning inland its pitch dark and its getting a little cold as well. How do you like this- I am here in Africa with my wife as pillion on my first day of riding and contrary to what I preach (no riding after sunset), here we are all alone on a cold dark highway except the headlight of our bike for company or an occasional car that we overtake, desperate to reach our destination in the dark, even foregoing food or water break to make up lost time. At times wondering, if this is adventure or pure stupidity in this part of the world. In the dark I could make out there were fields on either side of the road, but other than that it was only our bright headlight and we to ourselves. We pass Firgrove, Stellenbosch and after some more riding in pitch darkness it was a huge relief to see the distance to destination reducing on the GPS and finally it was like reaching an oasis in the desert when we spot the Rodeberg Lodge, our B&B at the town of Paarl. Honestly the last 15-20 kms were handled with hunger, fatigue and a little turbulent feelings, although me & wife were constantly chatting & keeping company for each other on the intercom. Our B&B host for the night Mrs. Leaney was waiting for us and we soon park, unload and wash up.

After a long tiring day, a shower, the feel of a bed, soft pillow….zzzzzzzz

For dinner we had already presumed that the restaurants may be closed & we will have to make do with the Maggi noodles we carry in our bag for emergency. But fortunately, a Mediterranean restaurant across the road is still open and we order our take away. Eat, rehydrate and its sleeping time. Distance traveled for the day 220 kms

**lijok** · 01-25-2012, 12:07 AM

wow... glued to this... hurry the rest please Haroon bhai...

**Haroon** · 01-25-2012, 02:06 AM

Originally posted by lijok View Post

wow... glued to this... hurry the rest please Haroon bhai...

Sure Lijo....

Just that picture hosting is taking time

**Haroon** · 01-25-2012, 02:09 AM

DAY-2 16 December (Paarl to Aquila)

Assorted video collection from Day-2

SOUTH AFRICA BIKE TRIP DEC 2011-DAY 2 - YouTube

We wake up to a bright, warm & sunny morning in Paarl. This place is the third oldest European settlement in SA and is renowned for its scenic beauty and fruit growing heritage. Our B&B, the Rodeberg Lodge where we are staying has some nice & cozy touches to it and also has a beautiful garden and feels more like a home.

LOADING UP OUR SHIP IN THEIR BACKYARD FOR THE RIDE

ALTHOUGH THESE BOARDS EXIST EVERYWHERE, DON’T BE PREJUDICED…ITS SAFE

Parting shot with our host

Our host, the graceful & extremely hospitable Mrs Leaney (pictured above with my wife) is the sister of the B&B owner and has set up an appetizing breakfast and also gifts us a packet of Rooibos Tea (a local bush tea plant only grown in a small part of western cape of South Africa). Anyways, this is by far one of the best B&Bs we have stayed in the whole trip as it felt just like home. Will gladly recommend this place for anybody passing thru Paarl. Soon we pack up and hit the road. Along the way we pass the Victor Verster Correctional Center which is where the legendary Nelson Mandela in 1991 walked a free man from his 27 years of imprisonment (infact he spent the last three years of imprisonment here).

We continue on R303 road towards Wellington and then tackle the picturesque 30 km long Bainskloof Pass with an unending, mind stimulating series of twisties in the mountains. After its summit, there is a river on the right in the deep gorge below and it provides for some stunning views.

NICE JOB TO APPLY FOR…..

Continuing thru Wolseley, we arrived at Tulbach, which is a valley surrounded by beautiful mountains all around. A beautiful town which was almost wiped out back in 1969, in one of the most destructive earthquakes in South African history, when most of the city was destroyed. It was however subsequently rebuilt over many years and the present buildings hold a mixture of various architecture styles. After a drinks break at Tulbach, we subsequently backtrack and just before Wolseley turn left to R46 road that takes us thru the wonderful Mitchell’s Pass with its long fast sweeping curves and climbs that is a bikers delight. Along this route we pass the historic Toll House located on a curve on the left side of the road. We pass a few more kms and soon arrive at town of Ceres, the fruit capital of South Africa. The road leading to Ceres is lined with farms growing various kinds of fruits like peaches, nectarines, apples, apricots, pears and cherries.

After Ceres, we then proceed another 60kms thru absolutely barren landscape to the final destination for the day- Aquila Game Reserve for our ‘big 5’ experience, where we are just in time for lunch. At the entrance we have to sign an Indemnity Form not to hold the owners of the game reserve responsible just in case one of the animals decided to have us for its meal and we have to leave the park with less mass than we entered!!

OUR UNTIRING & TRUSTY PARTNER TAKING A BREATHER….

IN SHORT, DON’T TELL US WE DIDN’T WARN YOU…..

Upon arrival, we are dead hungry and after a sumptuous buffet lunch, we unload & briefly relax in our five-star rustic jungle chalet and get ready for the evening safari ride in their vehicle for our meeting with the Big-5 of Africa.

YEAH, SUPER LUXURY, BUT NO ROOF IN YOUR SHOWER…!!

BTW, the Aquila Safari is a private game reserve located in a 7500 hectare area of the Southern Karoo region with the Big-5 of Africa (Lion, Elephant, Wild Buffalo, Leopard & Rhino) as well as a variety of other wild animals & birds. This luxurious place has its share of celebrity visitors including the likes of Paris Hilton, Kian, Margaret Thatcher, MC Hammer etc, but for we budget adventurers, this sure burnt a HUGE hole in our pockets, but the experience sure was well worth the money spent. The safari took us as close as 10-15 feet from the big animals in a ‘well ventilated’ vehicle which basically had enough space for the lions to enter and have us for its next meal!! Also midway there is a nice refreshment drink break in the wild outdoors with choice of grape juice or champagne…Truly 5 star experience!

We return back to a great buffet dinner and after a nice walk around the ‘designated safe part’ of the park we retire to bed. It’s a peaceful night with the occasional sounds of the wild life around us. The chalets are very cozy and did you know the shower was open to the sky!! Total distance traveled for the day 189 kms.

**prabhubravo** · 01-25-2012, 02:30 AM

Originally posted by Haroon View Post

Thanks aargee. Thats why on all our trips I have the Indian flag on my bike for 2 reasons. 1. My love for my country & being a proud indian. 2. The flag is a constant reminder that everything we do right or wrong will reflect on my country accordingly.

Esp in europe, we had this surprised look from people when we took off our helmets - I mean 2 non-white looking people on a bike tour! We got asked couple of times "if we were from UK", but when we said India, it was like "Oh....." so we made sure, we presented ourselves & our country in the best possible way

Exactly the same here in nz too.. WE will be asked if we are from Aus.. I politely say we are from India. and the reaction will he 'Oh.. this is the first time I have seen an Indian saying we are from India..'

**AnirbanB** · 01-25-2012, 04:11 PM

Amazing. Thanks for sharing the ride report !

**animeher** · 01-25-2012, 05:28 PM

Wow. Great log. Will read in details once I return home. Keep it up

**satyenpoojary** · 01-25-2012, 05:49 PM

WOW (with my jaws open!)

Hooked on to this! Will see the pics and video when I reach home!

**n4speed** · 01-25-2012, 07:26 PM

Amazing it can get...the Pics are jus breathtaking and something different. Keep it up

**Haroon** · 01-25-2012, 08:18 PM

@ prabhubravo - Yeah, no surprise as indian origin people are all across the world

Thanks Ani, animeher, satyenpoojary, n4speed. Surely more is in store...

**Haroon** · 01-25-2012, 08:21 PM

DAY-3 17 December (Aquila to Oudtshoorn)

Assorted videos collection from Day-3

SOUTH AFRICA BIKE TRIP DEC 2011- DAY 3 - YouTube

With sunrise in this part of the world at 4:30am, its bright by 5:00am. With the chirping of birds and our own friendly resident peacock visiting our chalet, it was hard to sleep further. Farzana woke me up with a nice cup of tea which we both sat sipping in the portico of our chalet with the cool desert breeze kissing our faces, the occasional howl of a animal deep in the bushes, the morning sunrays beautifully glazing the mountains around was an unforgettable scene to behold. This tranquil feeling in the middle of the vast Karoo was simply mystical.

We finish our morning routine and head for a richly laid out buffet breakfast. As I went for a refill of juice, our resident peacock walked into the restaurant and decided to take a few bites from my fruits on my breakfast plate! Can the jungle experience get any better?

OUR HIGHLY CUSTOMIZED OMLETTE IN THE MAKING……

OUR FRUIT-STEALING RESIDENT PEACOCK IN THE BACKGROUND

We soon pack-up, loaded the bike and get ready for a long day of riding thru the vast & barren little Karoo. Well, Mr. Garmin GPS had a few more plans for us! We head out of Aquila and follow the GPS which ask us to take a left turn towards the route we came the previous day. With no civilization in view for the next 60 odd kms we blindly follow the GPS although my wife kept saying on the intercom it does not seem right and check the paper map. We are soon back in Ceres and I knew we have screwed up big time. We ask a few locals on the road and the answers tell us we have to ride back to aquila and proceed further from there. So today, in addition to the 350kms we are scheduled to munch, I have just added another 140 odd kms to the equation (which honestly, I didn’t mind as I love to ride & ride…). We decide to head back towards Aquila, but my lady was not as excited like me and for the next half hour Mrs Adventure gave me a nice piece of her mind thru the intercom and while I obediently listened, I was wishing that either the intercom battery or its headphone comes loose and stops working, but no luck!!! I had once seen a motorbike ad which said ‘Man was not put on earth to ask for directions’- but today I didn’t think it was a good idea to explain that to Mrs Adventure in her present mood……..

ATLEAST, I DIDN’T FORGET THIS HIGHWAY HAVING PASSED IT TWICE!!!!

I sure felt like an idiot passing the same place we started from this morning after wasting 2 hours & adding about 140kms to the odo. We pass the now ‘all-too-familiar’aquila and continue on the R46 road further till we reach the T-intersection and turn right joining the N1 highway briefly before turning left on the R318 road towards Montagu. Its an isolated road with almost no traffic and suddenly for the first time I experience cross winds on this trip. At times it was a little wild, but all within control.

SO FAR TODAY THESE ARE THE FEW PEOPLE WE SEE ON THE ROAD

As we progress, the ambient temperature was also shooting up rapidly. We have a brief respite crossing some more long sweeping curves on the Rooihoogte Pass & Burgers Pass, after which we arrive at Montagu, which is known for its natural hot water springs. We went searching for it and finally reached the spot that has a nice resort built around it and after entering the place we are told the actual water spring is atop a hill nearby and we can only see the water flowing down into the resort. With the holiday season, the place was house-full and with most of them enjoying the sun & heat with just the ‘bare essential’ clothes Mrs & Mr Adventure looked like creatures from outer space in our boots & riding gear or space suits.

We soon grab a quick lunch of Margarita pizza & Chicken Mayo sandwich and continue our journey on the R62 road or more prominently known as ‘Route 62’ thru the vast open spaces of the Little Karoo region (Klein Karoo in Afrikaans language). As we rumbled through the echoing kilometers, I was enchanted at the splendid emptiness around us. Ofcourse, we are now riding in 39-40 deg C heat and the annoying cross winds are getting wilder with each passing kilometer not making our riding task any easier. At times sudden wild gusts of wind almost dislodge the handle bar & we are tilting the bike at crazy angles into the wind to keep the rubber side down. I have to really wrestle with the bike, while behind me, Farzana is having a tough time balancing on one side and taking pictures in heavy winds.

We have already entered a part of the Overberg region and stop for a hydration/fuel stop in Barrydale, where we meet a couple of armed but friendly South African cops who gladly agree for a picture. Also we meet another rider from Cape Town on his classic Moto-Guzzi (pictured below), who also shares his agonizing experience with the crosswinds. Farzana is excited to spot a cozy Farm Stall nearby and starts her own tour inside and the fruits as usual taste super yummy in this part of the world.

More on Barrydale later in the story on Day-6 when we will again enter this village from another route. Anyways for now leaving Barrydale behind, we get small breaks from cross winds while passing the quaint & beautiful villages such as Lemoenshoek, Warmwaterberg, Ladismith etc whose local communities are all into farming, wine making etc.

On the Route 62, we also passed the well known RONNIE’S SEX SHOP which is basically located in the middle of nowhere! And well for those of you surprised at the three-letter word, before you raise your eye brows, firstly this shop has nothing even remotely to do with the ‘wonder’ word (read this http://route62.co.za/route62attracti...tID=1&townID=2 ) and more importantly it was a prank played by a few drunk friends of Ronnie one night when he was away and uncle Ronnie decided to leave it that way... With temperatures closing in on 40 deg C, and with the harrowing cross winds, we just stop for a quick pic there and continued our ride.

Crossing the Huisrivier Pass with its long sweepers, moderate twisties, chocolate colored road sections(!) etc and few more kms later we arrive into the town of Carlitzdorp. The wild cross winds still continue unabated and I guess we would have easily ridden close to 200kms in those really brutal cross winds today and although it sure adds to the adventure experience, believe me it is definitely not much fun controlling a heavy bike, passenger & luggage with the side winds whipping you continuously.

BEEN THERE, DONE IT…….

ROOFTOP SOLAR HEATERS INSTEAD OF DISH ANTENNAES IN INDIAN SHANTIES!!

Few more enduring kms and we are finally in the wonderful town of Oudtshoorn. - Don’t worry, I too had difficulties pronouncing it every time and have got better now... Well, the locals pronounce it like AUD-SWARRRUNN. Hungry and exhausted with the cross winds, scorching heat etc but still having enjoyed the whole experience as adventurous bikers we check into the clean and no-frills ‘Backpackers Paradise’ lodge.

MY TYPICAL WORKPLACE……

OUR SLEEPING PLACE FOR TONIGHT………

We have to pay a refundable deposit each for the room key, bath towels etc etc and yes internet costs R 30 for 24 hours use. Our accommodation style is a roller coaster ride, since the previous night we were in the lap of luxury at Aquila resort with air-con etc and today we are at a lodge which as the name suggests is a very basic accommodation with a small pedestal fan in one corner of room. Ofcourse, we cheapo adventurers are not complaining as long as we save money. We will be staying here for the next 2 nights as we plan to take a break tomorrow to explore the Oudtshoorn, which is one of the biggest towns in the little Karoo region. The major attractions for tomorrow include the Cango Wildlife ranch, Cango Caves and Ostrich farms.

We end the day with a lovely dinner consisting of Pancake Torte & Bella Cibo salad with fruit juices at an Italian restaurant across the road from our lodge.
Total distance traveled today 492 kms.

**beruoist** · 01-25-2012, 11:40 PM

Superb,The Highway is soooooooo tempting.

Cheers
Biru

**The Celebrity** · 01-25-2012, 11:49 PM

It's always been an inspiration to read your trip logs. This one is no exception. Fulfill your dream. Ride the World Biker!!!

**Haroon** · 01-26-2012, 07:14 PM

Originally posted by beruoist View Post

Superb,The Highway is soooooooo tempting.

Cheers
Biru

Thanks. The changing landscapes as you go along makes the SA ride so enjoyable.

Originally posted by The Celebrity View Post

It's always been an inspiration to read your trip logs. This one is no exception. Fulfill your dream. Ride the World Biker!!!

Thanks for the kind words & good wishes. Like my website- Hope we can explore the world on 2 wheels, little at a time!

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Leave ordinary behind- An enchanting SOUTH AFRICAN odyssey on two-wheels

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