Re: To Leh with Love - A Photologue

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Re: To Leh with Love - A Photologue

@born2lead.

Great to see a couple share a passion. Do as many of such trips as possible before the kids come. After that, it will be very difficult to find time out. My wife and I did 3 medium rides before our son was born and then the daughter came along too. Now, with school and classes and projects and board exam prep, 24 hours are simply too little in a day. She could not accompany me even on my Leh ride in 2012.



But we are waiting. When the birds have flown the nest, we will rekindle the flame and be on the road half the year.

Good show. Ride safe, live strong.

Re: To Leh with Love - A Photologue

Zanskar with pillion !! Incredible. Your wife is very brave.

Re: To Leh with Love - A Photologue

Tantalizing! And I can sense what's coming. Bring it on.

Delhi - Ludhiana - Pathankot - Samba - Udhampur - PatniTop - Qazigund

Plan on Day 0 was to leave from work as soon as possible and meet our friends at Ludhiana (Geetika & Rohit aka DCS, who were with us our Spiti ride). It was also the rendezvous point for our co-travelers, introducing Sandeep Sood aka Sandy & SR Kartik on Sandy's Swift.


from left to right - Sandy, Uzma, Tiger Hill & Kartik



from left to right - Kartik, Sandy & The Mountain Goat (Swift, as addressed by his proud owner)



We (Uzma & I) the fortunate ones left from our offices at 4pm and after a quick run we made it to Ludhiana at 9pm-ish. While the mortals could leave only after finishing their office hours at 7 and managed to reach Ludhiana at mid night. Geetika & DCS being the ever charming Hosts, ensured our utmost comfort complimented with tasteful delicacies. No matter how prepared you are DCS can always come up with some things from his Pandora-Box that could be of use on a trip. We all had a nice time catching up and had to eventually drag ourselves to get some sleep.


Day 1 - Ludhiana to Qazigund - 460kms - 13hrs approx
We left Ludhiana at 5am and quickly crossed through Hoshiarpur & Pathankot. Had a feast of a breakfast at Sanjha Chulha (on Pathankot Bypass) and continued towards Samba, the place on Pathankot-Jammu Highway where a slip road originates for Udhampur. During this first half of our riding day we encountered some rains that kept the scorching heat at bay. After a not so interesting lunch at Udhampur we made it to Cloud engulfed PatniTop by late afternoon. We were riding in hills now and were enjoying a cloudy weather.


Vistas at PatniTop




As we crossed through Ramban and continued towards Banihal the valley started to turn lush-green, making it evident that the Kashmir Valley is near. Evening sunlight on the lush-green valley created quite an atmosphere. Just after crossing the ever so guarded Jawahar Tunnel we were blessed with a mesmerizing sunset at the Titanic View Point, which offers you with the first view at the "oh so beautiful" Kashmir Valley.


Titanic View Point, first view of Kashmir Valley






It got dark and we had to resume our ride. We decided to spend the night at the next town, Qazigund. Had our dinner at a Vaishnav Dhaba run by local Muslims and peacefully slept through the cold night.


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Qazigund - Srinagar - Sonamarg - Zozila - Drass - Kargil

Day 2 - Qazigund to Kargil - 260kms - 7 hrs approx


It had rained a little the last night and the remaining overcast made the morning cold and gloomy. We left the hotel at 6:30am and enjoying the low morning traffic made it to Srinagar by 9am. Considering the overcast, we had packed our cameras inside to save them from rains, and thus missed on clicking some pictures here.
Dal kindles certain feelings in an individual, sensing the need Uzma & I left the two love birds (read Sandy & Kartik) so that they could go for a romantic Shikara ride... just kidding, we wanted to pay our relatives a short visit at Srinagar and thus left them at Dal for an hour, but the buggers were glad because that got them time to search for some tasty breakfast.


Cloudy Morning at Dal Lake



Amidst daily chores at Dal Lake





Kartik at Dal


A Lineup waiting for the Tourists to turn up


Sandy at Dal


We at Dal


Failing to take it away with you



Of course we didn't have enough of the magnificent Dal Lake, imagining what a sight would it be to see under a bright sun and probably on a sunset we bid adieus with it. At that time we didn't know that Almighty will bring us back by blocking the Manali route.
Maintaining a good pace we crossed through Sonamarg and soon started the ascend to Zozila Pass. The local taxi operators were making the situation worse for the otherwise slushy roads. It was still an overcast but luckily no rains. Sight atop was quite disappointing...


An Infested Zozila Pass



A few kilometers after Zozila Pass the tarmac resurfaced and the weather too started to clear up. Though the green Kashmir Valley gave away to a rather barren terrain but the gloom was soon taken over by a perfectly paved tarmac and the warming sunshine. We got some dream roads to ride on with mouth watering twisties to add to the flavor.


View on the other side of Zozila



At Fatula Top



Highest Point on Srinagar - Leh Road



Mouthwatering Roads towards Drass



Invitation to a Dream Run



Enjoying the dream run we made it to the Kargil War Memorial at Drass at 3:30pm. We had ample time to reach Kargil, which was our destination for the day, we spent a lot of time at the Memorial. It is an entirely different story that you get to know by talking to the soldiers there and looking at the various pictures in the museum. It surely makes you start think much over and above of your self.














With a heavy heart we left the place and continued towards Kargil. We finally made it at Kargil just before sunset. Searched for a place and retired at Paradise Guest House near Kargil District hospital for the night.






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Re: Qazigund - Srinagar - Sonamarg - Zozila - Drass - Kargil

I dont know why, but photos seem more clear at XBHP :P

Re: Qazigund - Srinagar - Sonamarg - Zozila - Drass - Kargil

Lucky Man.. A biker love is to ride to Leh and that to with your love..

And awesome pics.. let the rest too roll.. waiting..

Re: To Leh with Love - A Photologue

Beautiful pics and a wonderful adventure. This is a ride in my bucket list.
I am tuned in.

Re: To Leh with Love - A Photologue

Lovely write-up and superb pics.
Complete the rest soon.

Kargil - Sankoo - Panikhar - Parkachik - Rangdum

Day 3 - Kargil to Rangdum - 127kms - 5hrs approx




Zanskar - the word has been haunting my dreams ever since I saw some out of the world pictures of our very own Narender Master Ji. This was my 3rd trip to Leh on a bike and not that the excitement was any less the first two times, it was the inclusion of this much awaited "ride to Zanskar" that made it so special.
Back in Kargil the day before, we were enquiring about the road status to Padum and we got some very disheartening stories to listen to. Apparently it is not only the winter snow that makes the roads to Zanskar un-motor-able but also the harsh sun during summers that make the glaciers melt at a faster rate, resulting in formation of water-streams at multiple places across the road. We were told that excessive water level (3-4 fts at various places) and the mudslides have stopped all kinds of traffic between Kargil and Padum. Classic case of "Haath aaya Mu na laga..." As the public transport (a mini-bus) wasn't able to make it through since 3 days, locals suggested us not to attempt it. Well we had come this far so we decided to ride till as far as it was conveniently possible.


The next morning, we were woken up by the sound of Azan from the near by Mosque at 4am. The first thing I told myself was "Waqt se pehle and Kismat se jyada kisi ko kuch nahi milta..." At this time of the year the sun is out early and the day light riding hours can last up till 7:30 in the evening. We had tanked up fuel the last evening and were carrying 5liters of extra fuel, in all to be able to cover 500kms. It was 7am and a bright sunny day was inviting us to the beautiful Suru Valley. At first we were welcomed by some lovely roads with tarmac nothing less than that of a runway. Karizma was conveniently able to get to 80-90kmph with two up on the alluring valley roads.


Enjoying the ride, it took us hardly any time to cover 40kms and reach the first big town of Suru Valley called Sankoo. It is a picturesque township, tucked within the mountains are the lush green fields and trees next to the lively Suru River that fill-up this bowl shaped valley. Next time In Sha Allah, we will plan a stay at Sankoo, as it offers a calm and peaceful stay alternative to Kargil, it has a decent market with few eateries and an affordable stay at J&K Tourist Bungalow.


The Beautiful Suru Valley



Guys, pls pose



That's what they do



Ride and click and ride and click ...






As we rode through the town, we crossed at least 4 schools. It was heartwarming to see the government reaching out to these remote places and setting up schools. Past Sankoo the dream tarmac gave way to few patches of leveled dirt tracks. Locals enthusiastically told us that the section was under construction and very soon a fresh tarmac would be laid till Panikhar.


Sandy with some shy local kids






and me



Ride from Sankoo till Panikhar was nothing less than a dream. Snowcaps shining atop on either side, a river flowing down the mountains, small villages along the river with green fields all around, herds of sheep, goats and horses grazing on the vast meadows, as if Almighty hand-picked a child’s drawing book and added life to it. Life in its basic form, pure, without any dilution, with every sight so ideal, that it takes your breath away. There was a J&K Police check post at Panikhar where we had to register our bike.
Panikhar is also the base camp of the highest mountains, Nun 23,409 ft (7135 m) and Kun 23,218 ft (7077 m), in J&K. There is J&K tourist Bungalow and a private guest house for night stay. We have been admiring these spikey white topped peaks since the morning as they were visible from many places in the valley. We asked a local, which one of the peaks were Nun Kun, he first looked at the ignorant us and almost frowningly said while pointing his finger towards Nun Kun, the highest one you buggers. Ok he didn’t call us buggers, not in words at least.











Beyond Panikhar tarmac had completely vanished and we started to gain altitude. Riding through the last village, Parkachik, we were stopped by bunch of kids, who were enquiring about the status of public transport from Kargil. Among the younger ones was a kid who asked us for a pen, not money or chocolates or toys but a pen. Many like us who travel in these remote regions distribute toffees, chocolates, toys etc. I was enlightened by a 5 year old that a pen not only could last much more than the taste of the chocolate or fun with the toy but also signify or at least point towards an educated tomorrow. We both regretted having just one pen that we gave to the kid and not more for the rest of them. There is a J&K Tourist Bungalow at the very end of Parkachik village. Post Parkachik, the steep gradient takes you to contrasting region of Moorland and glaciers. It seems almost unacceptable to suddenly come to these stark conditions from the prosperous part of Suru Valley.





Uzma sharing Salam Dua with the local females



Shrinking Greenery gave way to colorful hills and Rocky Mountains






Weather changing at a distance behind us



Fortunate to have sunshine on us






We made it to Rangdum at 4pm. The first structure here is J&K Toursit Bungalow followed by two eateries. With slight overcast and chilly wind the small village, comprising of about 25 houses, seemed deserted. We enjoyed the cold evening, admiring the vast land. Later we were served with an early dinner of Rajma Rice and we went to bed at around 9pm.


Reflections



At the Dhaba at Rangdum



Sundown at Rangdum






Snowclads as Sentries of Village



Sandy clicking ... something :P











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Re: Kargil - Sankoo - Panikhar - Parkachik - Rangdum

Brilliant pics man..
I regret not visiting Zanskar valley on my ride to ladakh..

Re: Kargil - Sankoo - Panikhar - Parkachik - Rangdum

you could regret that or feel good bout having a great run to Leh this year along with planning for Zanskar next year

Re: Kargil - Sankoo - Panikhar - Parkachik - Rangdum

I like the sound of that..