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Seven Stories - Thousand miles of wandering in Maharashtra

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  • Seven Stories - Thousand miles of wandering in Maharashtra

    Request to reader: Please wait till all the images are loaded. You can work on other tabs and once this tab stops loading (which shouldn't take too long), you can read this collection of stories.

    This travelogue is participating in Wrangler True Wanderers 3.0 contest. If you like what you will read ahead, please consider voting for me on: True Wanderers 3.0 - Finalist Travelogues

    Comments most welcome!


    Trailer of things to come



    An unexpected call


    When I entered in the Wrangler True Wanderer 3.0, I recalled my entry 3 years ago, in True Wanderers 1.0. I had been a part of the final ten of that contest, and I had an idea how things would move on if I were selected. As per my last experience, if I were to be selected in this contest as well, then I would get a call a few days early before the announcement of the result. Someone from xBHP would first confirm availability and my sanity whether I could ride for seven days, and then only my name would go on the final list.

    As the result announcement date - 12 April 2014 - approached closer, my hopes of being part of this TW3.0 diminished gradually. I could see some travelogues getting 3000-4000 votes, and would wonder, what chance do I have against such giants of social networks, who have such great network of people!

    I could feel my heart drop a gear and give accelerator, such was the sudden increase in my heart beats. Could it be? But how could it be? But then what else could it be??! I gave some lame reasons excusing myself out of the meeting room, and picked up the call. Astonishingly, it was for informing me the possible selection of the top 10. However Sunil did not confirm for sure that I was selected, he said that I had a chance and could only be confirmed once they declare the list on the truewanderer.in website.


    About the contest


    The truewanderer contest is a unique platform, where two different breeds of homosapiens, one of crazy bikers, and other of corporate professionals, come together for a common goal. The interaction is often amusing, and sometimes bewildering. For example, as a motorcyclists I was prepared for touring related questions, but then myntra guys bowled me over with fashion related interviews!

    This time, Wrangler has launched some new collections of denims and tees, named Sun Shield and Silver Shield. I will be wearing this collection on my ride for next seven days, and will review the performance of these collections once I finish the ride.


    Route


    Once upon a time

    Once upon a time in a far away land
    there lived a wanderer, a mighty happy man
    everywhere he'd go, he'd mingle and jingle
    Everywhere he'd go, he'd march his band

    When he was a tiny lad, he'd bobble everywhere
    Walking for all afternoon, holding his dad's finger
    And especially devoured were the trips out of town
    This was a time where he enjoyed on his own

    The years kept on rolling, and the lad kept on growing
    Like every teen-ager, he too tried to be all-knowing
    but the world kept him on leash, humbling him down
    soon he found his nirvana was in exploring the lands around

    He kept on yearning to explore, taking paths, trains and buses
    Depended on people and friends who made tall promises
    That we'd go here and we'd do that, this Sunday for sure!
    Just to get busy somewhere and to forget all they said

    No more was he bounded by fake commitments of others
    No more was the need to depend on anyone else
    Be it summer or winters or blazing monsoons
    All he needed was his motorcycle and himself

    He learnt in his rides, not matter what part of the land
    People just looked different, yet moral was same for all their stories.
    Everyone was slave of their own selfish desires
    Everyone was a prisoner of his or her own worries


    Preparing for the ride


    Collecting the tees and denims from Wrangler store was a joyous process. I tried a number of tees, and had a hard time finalizing the ones that would join me on this tour. The denim selection was comparatively much fast, as the main criteria was fit.



    I was very happy to see that I needed one size less that usually required when I tried the Silver shield jeans. However, later I found that I require the normal size in the Sun shield collection. So please keep this in mind when you are buying Wrangler denims.





    I never get to have so many bags full of new clothes for my own!



    After collecting the attires from the Wrangler store, getting the stickers to paste around the bike, and managing to finally cool the nerve, I was slowly getting ready to ride. Maharashtra weather gods were no mood to show mercy though. It continued to be rising mercury for most part of the day, and the idea of getting slowly roasted was hardly enticing, if at all.

    Even though the full plan refused to materialize, I had a definite idea where I would begin, even before getting selected in the TW3.0 contest. It must be an exotic place, so beautiful that it should be out of this world, and one of a kind. And I knew just the right place.


    The gear



    I am also carrying a Dell laptop for typing my thoughts, as no mobile has big enough keyboard for a person with finger-eye coordination like me.




    The day began early, and I am sure even Vesta was surprised to being woke up so early.



    Now that Vesta stood gleaming bright after the bath and polishing session, I started to put on the armor on her. The custom made saddle bag carriers made to protect her side panels from scars from the bags, the mount for the Wrangler flag, the extra cables, all made their way one by one on Vesta, taking a liter of my sweat (and some took parts of my blood too, those damn tight nuts!).

    Then came the time to put on all the stickers of the sponsors on my helmet and my ride. Removing a sticker, especially a complex one such as cursive Wrangler, can be quiet tricky. It led to many situations that could have led to divorce had one of the quarreling parties (generally me) not taken a calmer stand. Finally the stickers too found their respective places in the world, and I was ready to move out.



    Trying to look as nonchalant as possible, I zigzagged through the maze called city roads, and parked Vesta in front of the Wrangler showroom, bang opposite Sambhaji Park, on JM road, one of the most prominent roads in Pune.



    We were enthusiastically welcomed by the store persons, and glasses of sugarcane were thrust in our hands.



    We were give a free reign to pose around the store and click ourselves. The store packs most collection of Wrangler, and it is worth a visit if you are planning to buy denims or tees.





    Finally, it was time to take off, and the persons from the Wrangler stores as well as neighboring shops gathered around in curiosity.



    I am sure other contestants too would agree with me, that this is perhaps the best time of the trip. Here you are, with your motorcycle throbbing under you at 1300rpm, and you feel the your own gloves grabbing your hands wishing you good luck, your own jacket and denim hugging you to give you moral support, and your helmet showing only those things worth seeing. You see people in front of you, with their eyes full of curiosity, and care too if it is a friend or a loved one. It is this moment that you realize you have become a wanderer.




    From Shikrapur, I took a left for heading towards the village, and the scene turned partly urban-rural type to fully village scene in a matter of kilometers. Soon I was out of the manmade jungle of flats and plots and dubious schemes advertising proudly on both the sides of the road. The view changed completely, and I smiled under my helmet to see green fields popping in view from both sides. Fields where men and women invested their sweat and their lives to see them bloom, and not depend on fooling anyone for making a living.



    I stopped at a lush green field of coriander. Coriander is an important part of the Indian meals, and I have always seen it being quoted at the lowest price in vegetable market. Looking at the big field with people working intrigued me, and I parked Vesta next to the field.



    A whole family along with couple of workers was working in the field. Seeing the size of coriander rolls collected at one side, I could see they were working on it for a long time. Here I was, cribbing about the Sun and the heat, and here they were, working under the very same Sun at the very same temperature, happy that they were working for the betterment of their family.



    There were a bunch of kids following me around all over the field with curiosity, so a parting shot with them.



    The roads were good, and I should have been making good speeds, but the calm green views at both the sides were so inviting, that it was hard to ignore them.





    But the field of pomegranates is a different matter altogether, so I went it and clicked around.





    The entrance to the field was beautiful.



    Soon I was heartily welcomed in Chincholi Morachi by a sign board that heartily welcomed all its readers.



    I noticed there were a number of home-stay options. Some looked very professional and inviting, while some looked way too rough. Mine was out of the village, right in a field, so I passed all the home-stays in the village, bumping in every speedbreaker that every home-stay has installed around its gate.

    The home-stay I was staying had some dirt road to cover. Just when I entered this dirt road, two suicidal kamikaze chameleons, one after another jumped in front of Vesta, and almost made me fall due to sudden braking and turning in the sand to avoid hurting them. Afterwards, I decided I would not to be so kind henceforth and would let them meet their destiny on their dangerous game. Perhaps they too sensed it, because I did not see them later. Or perhaps someone did arrange their meeting with destiny.

    When I entered the home-stay compound, I was greeted by two peacocks grazing carelessly some distance away.





    The road quality so far away from the main highway was surprisingly good, and I was able to manage a 70-80KMPH speed very comfortably. I never speed in residential areas, but on open roads, it is an invitation.

    Rolling down fast towards Nighoj, I entered a bridge at speed, and was mesmerized by the beauty at both the sides of the bridge. I stopped despite the hurry to move on, such was the calm beauty of the place. Sun was setting at one side of the bridge, and it looked stunning in the reflection in the mirror-like calm water underneath.







    After a quick photo-session, I moved ahead to Nighoj, cautiously asking my way around. There are lots of turns and twists in the village roads, and one unknown turn would land you far away from your original destination. Later I realized that I was not needed to be so cautious, as it happened to be a day of the fair of the Gods on the banks of the potholes, and whole surrounding populace was heading towards Nighoj.

    Due to this fair, I had a lot of company from people from various parts of the neighborhoods. While I reduced my photography possibilities, it enlightened me to see and meet and greet so many new people at one place.









    Ranjankhalge, the place of potholes, by itself is very beautiful and very scary at times. Some of the potholes were better called stand alone hills, with deep crevices. After a good amount of walking and searching, I managed to get some good photos to introduce Nighoj to many new readers who might not know of it.



    Testing out my Wrangler Sun-Shiled collection



    A shaky footbridge connects two temples that are on the two sides of the river.



    The river flows with such strength that it brings not just the stones but also bigger objects with it.




    The old temple at one side has an idol for a Goddess of many faces. I could not find a back story, but my guess is that the Goddess represents the potholes of the site. Such was amazing faith of the believers that the pots were not sights of the devil, but rather a sign of a Goddess.



    I also noticed an interesting phenomenon. Whenever someone would make a donation, an announcer would speak in a loudspeaker announcing to the vicinity the name of the donor and the amount donated. Sometimes (actually a lot of times), I have observed that the higher donations are given priority over smaller donations, those donors are treated better etc. However in this temple, I noticed that the announcement were equally enthusiastic for all range of donations, so I listened an announcement of a donation of Rs. 1001 followed by equally toned announcement for Rs. 11 as well. Felt happy to know that Bhagwan ke ghar sab saman!

    The fair was closing down, and the sellers were packing their goods. There was a great hustle at the sight, now that the night was falling and everyone wishing to head home in his or her warm bed.





    I too made way to Vesta, standing serenely in the parking lot, and proceeded to my stay for the day.


    Day 2 - Little bits of craziness

    I threw on my pajamas, grabbed my camera bag and ran outside. The peacocks were coolly grazing near the house. Yesterday there were only two males, today they were joined by many females as well.





















    I felt like a dog today morning, and chased a lot of peacocks with a grin on my face. The field was fertile, and the owners were making full use of the land. In one part, they had planted mango trees which were carrying raw mangoes. The sight of ripe mangoes at such a low lever must be quite exhilarating.





    After a round or two of homely breakfast, I was ready to move out. The home stay owner gifted me two feathers of peacock, shed some time ago.







    On my way, I saw a poultry farm, and halted there. Many broiler chicken were there, awaiting their day of ending up in some meal. Went in to click their photo, only to have my nostril hairs burnt. The strong stench of the hens was horrible! And the care taker was roaming around without any visible sign of distress due to the stink. Guess he had lost the smelling sense a long time ago.

    One non shaky photo I could manage with one hand, while other gripped my nose:



    While my plans were grand, my execution proved to be awfully poor. As per the map, I decided 3-4 halts that I would ask people around, to move forward. I must have made some mistake somewhere, because when my calculations showed the destination should be 5 kilometers away, people around were giving me looks as if I was asking direction for the moon!

    Some sights along the wrong way:







    I parked Vesta at the scampering shadows of a colourful Gulmohar (Delonix regia) tree, and made my way to the small flight of stairs.



    The temple is made up of black stone, and as with any black stone, it was H-O-T due to the Sun. I removed my shoes and tip toed my way inside, hushing and hissing due to the heated floor. However once inside the temple, you climb one storey up through the stoney path, and it is surprisingly much cooler. I forgot to take a reading, but I guess it was at least 4-5 degrees cooler if not more than outside.




















    The carvings are extremely intricate, depicting dancers and tigers and elephants. There is even a carving of God Ganesha in a woman's form, called Lambodari or Ganeshyani.













    A little meditation in the temple, after all motorcycling is a kind of meditation for the wanderer!



    I came out of the temple, donned my shoes and looked at my surrounding. Being situated on top of a hill, the temple and the campus offers excellent views all around. It is the season of the Gulmohar bloom; many of them were sporting excellent colours, and were looking soothingly calm against the bright backdrop of 12 noon Sun.







    I had choice of routes, and I chose the fastest one, from Pune Satara highway. Consulted the GPS and it showed that the highway was only 50 kilometers from me, and once on the highway, I would not have to care for bumpy internal roads and would make up good time.



    (Sorry for the out of focus photo, I guess my camera skills need a lot of brushing up!)




    Once I was on highway, Vesta started chatting with the wind. Soon we were at 90-100KMPH, and we were munching kilometers as fast as possible. The big guys of the road, buses and trucks, were not idling on the sides either. They too took part in the race and dominated their way throughout. In one such tricky overtake, I smelled some burning rubber, but that smell disappeared once I overtook a sluggish truck on an up-climb. I wondered whether it was just a smell from his tires, or whether my smelling sense was not yet recovered by the strong hen coop stench this morning. Yet I kept a mental note to stop wherever there is some shadow on the highway to park Vesta.

    As luck would have it, there was no shadow anywhere for next 20 kilometers. Once I passed a toll booth, I stopped on a side of the road with little shade from a tree, to check the reason for smell. I need not look hard, the smoke marked its way clearly. The right side of my saddlebag was evidently touching the exhaust, and smoke was rising fast from the top of that bag.



    A tempo too braked hard ahead, and its driver and his assistant came running to me.

    The driver engaged in a conversation of the whereabouts with me. While we were waiting for the smoke to subside and the exhaust to cool down, suddenly the assistant cried out loud.

    And ran hurriedly to his tempo. Startled, I looked at his tempo to see which part caught fire, but in an instant I realized he was shouting about me. The smoke rose at an astonishing rate, and I could see small flames dancing around in the saddlebag!

    I quickly put away my camera, and remembered I had refilled my quota of drinking water in last village. I threw the water both from the outside of the fire as well as poured in the bag. The little fire was put out before it could do any substantial damage.

    The assistant who shouted and ran away came back with a bottle of water. It was half the size of the one I was holding, and was partly filled. The driver looked at the bottle and his face turned very ashamed. Trying to act cool, he took the half filled small bottle and offered it to me.



    Luckily, the wrangler clothes were in tank bag, so main part of the clothes was saved. When I finally opened the burnt clothes, I found that mainly my Jockeys and VIPs were the victims of the unfortunate event.





    Once on the highway, I regained my composure, and resumed high speed riding, albeit with a heightened sense of smell. Fortunately the exhaust kept its respectful distance from the saddle bag, and there was no fire incidence that day.

    I halted at Satara, at one of the big hotels by the highway famous for their Non-Veg Thali.



    After a scrumptious lunch, with heavy tummy and drowsy eyes, I continued on the highway. It was so hot by now, I could feel the heat radiating from the highway surface, from the hot engine running hard at 90KMPH, and from the Sun glaring down at high steam. I could feel what a fish must be feeling in a pressure cooker! Cutting through the hot air encompassing us, Vesta rode through hurriedly to get away from this inferno.









    Actually Koyana nagar is a huge area, and when one wants to visit Koyana nagar on tour, he or she means to visit the village Humbarle. Once you take on the climbing road winding upwards from the ST stand, you pass a number of good hotels. I chose the last one situated at the top. After the regular questionnaire of who, what, where, I was allocated a room with an excellent view of the water front. I confirmed whether the lights would be available all the time, and got a very affirmative answer. The reason behind this conviction was revealed on the next day.



    My room had a nice balcony overlooking the Koyana Dam. Even though the water had receded, still the sight of such huge water body surrounded by green trees on all sides gave me happy feeling inside. After getting cooked in the burning highway heat, I truly appreciated what green trees and blue water could do to a thirsty soul.



    After dinner, when I sat in the balcony looking at the lake somewhere in the distance, I recollected the events of today and kept on smiling. It was all craziness, to run around peacocks, to offer sweets to God and actually have them accepted, to ride so hard that the bag would catch fire, to decide the destination for the night as and when the time arises. But this was just what I needed, little bits of craziness, to preserve my sanity in this mad world.

  • #2
    Re: Seven Stories - Thousand miles of wandering in Maharashtra

    Approved!

    Wow, that's a huge write-up. Please continue further.
    Got a $5 head? Get a $5 helmet.
    Because everyone who passes, isn't a martyr!

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    • #3
      Re: Seven Stories - Thousand miles of wandering in Maharashtra






      So much was his hurry to mount us all in our respective vehicles and take us to the boating spot a bit away from the hotel, I realized that I had left the cameras in my room back at the hotel!

      When the boat moved with its whirr of an engine, I noticed that the boatman was talking respectfully to a person appearing to be someone of importance. After a short while, that gentleman joined me on my bench. A brief introduction session followed, and I realized that he was indeed an important man in the locality. He was related to the person responsible for grooming Koyana Nagar into a hill station. He was now a retired official from Mumbai and had travelled almost all over world in his successful life. But still, he was originally from this area, and his pride was eminent from his talk.

      Soon we were deeply engrossed in the conversation, while the great lake shimmered under our moving boat.

      Koyana nagar project is around 65 years old, envisioned by great leaders. The water flown down by Koyana river that originates in Mahabaleshwar, attends great volume by the time it reaches the dam at Humbarli. From Humbarli, the water management that is done is amazing. It is a three stage project, each stage generating a staggering amount of electricity. The power generation from the main dams alone was about 1500mW! It is almost equal to the peak demand of Pune city!
      The small generators were not even counted in this. I realized this huge power generation was the reason that the hotel manager confirmed yesterday with conviction that there would be power for all the hours.

      At no stage after this dam is the water is just randomly released into the wild. Using huge underground pipes, the water is properly moved to desired places, thus bringing the whole neighboring land under irrigation. It is truly an engineering marvel that is worth experiencing.

      But the project is not without a dark side. The boatman that was hearing our conversation decided to join in.

      The true development towards tourism too is stuck in the thick government files. The boatman cum guide was complaining that for developing any tourist activity, many government departments had to be consulted. The tourism department would have to ask permission from Forest department whether a particular part was accessible or not, Home department was to be clarified for safety aspect, Revenue department was to be consulted for profits, and working with so many departments while being in the Government wheel is an extremely slow process.

      But even with the occasional court cases and the non-flexibility of government officials, this little gem of a hill station is slowly blossoming. The localites are now realizing the tourism potential of the area. Slowly but surely, the area is taking steps towards tourism. The main village looks not much different than any typical hill station. The area is not fully developed as a tourist point yet; there are no memorabilia shops, no ice cream corners, and no Ferris wheels. But one can sense the absolutely great tourism potential that is just waiting to be tapped. A few nice hotels are already up and running.



      I also visited the small garden named Nehru Garden some distance away from the boating site.

      Testing the flexibility of the Silver Shield collection:



      For some reason, there was no photography allowed in the garden! It surprised me why would someone oppose photographing a garden? So put off by this, I clicked it from the outside, and made my way back to hotel to move out.


      I kept on getting thoughts to jot down, and would stop whatever I was doing to get my laptop or my diary out to jot them down. Unaccounted thoughts are just like electricity, I thought. If not used immediately, they go to waste.


      After lunch, I planned to head to Konkan now. From Pune to Konkan, one has to cross at least one hill. Be it either Khopoli, Tamhini, Koyana Nagar, Amba, Gagan Bawada or Amboli; one has to cross the Sahyadri range to get down to the Arabian sea. I had already crossed it when I reached Koyana Nagar. So I decided to move on to Konkan via Chiplun. One touches the Mumbai-Goa highway, and then by taking right somewhere on the highway, he ends up in Konkan at one point or another.

      I thought of riding ahead till my heart would get enough of highway, and then I would turn in to whichever area of Konkan was the closest.
      The road towards Chiplun are good, with nice twists along the way.







      I will not post all the murals here, because I want the readers to witness something unseen as well. Also, on paper the photography was not allowed. However in reality they turned a blind eye on the quiet photographer as long as he or she is not disturbing anyone or the peace by any antiques. However, should one dare to pose next to a mural, he gets his rear kicked out!

      Some interesting murals:


      A great story about humbleness. When King Shivaji mentioned to Ramdas Swami that the populace of his kingdom was doing well due to good governance, as the King was providing them enough resources to survive and flourish. Ramdas Swami pointed him towards a stone and asked him to have it split into two. The King ordered a stone-crusher to do so, and when the stone cracked open, there was a frog living inside the tiny gap in the stone. Ramdas Swami asked the surprised king, who supplied this frog the necessary resources to live in this rock? The king or the God?



      A most famous mural from this complex, the crowning ceremony, or Rajya Abhisheka



      This mural is about 20 feet wide, and has 3d faces that show the expression of each face very clearly, ranging from happiness, wonder, shock or even anger!


      I would get to see another place that history marked for Sambhaji later in the day, but I did not know that yet.

      There are a lot of other murals depicting big and small events in the Great King's life. If you are passing on the Goa Highway, Dervan is definitely worth a visit for an hour or two.

      After the visit to Dervan, I turned back to join the Mumbai Goa Highway to resume my quest towards Konkan.



      The Mumbai - Goa highway is excellently maintained. I was constantly ripping Vesta at 90-100KMPH, and she too was running happily ahead. There are some villages enroute, where one has to slow down, but later on the empty road it is just a chat with the wind with the needle pasted to 90 or above.

      I kept an eye on the milestones as they reduced the distance between myself and Sangameshwar, one kilometer at a time. Soon I was taking the left turn just next to a river bridge, and landed in Sangameshwar.

      Getting in the village from the speedy highway, one gets a shock while negotiating his way onwards on such tight road, which keeps on getting narrower and narrower. Soon you are turning around cows and avoiding suicidal hens running around on the road. I took the even smaller by-lane of the Kasba village, and parked Vesta in front of the Karneshwar temple.



























      There is also a small Sun temple in the compound with twelve moon-signs (rashi) carved around.



      Just across the river is another small temple of Shiva. There is not much information available about this temple. One has to walk down a few steps into the dark room that contains the Shiva Lingam.







      There was hardly anyone in the large campus of the Karneshwar temple. The surrounding was notably clean, there was no rubbish or any sign of old leaves shaded by the huge tree in the campus. I sat in the hall of the temple and closed my eyes, to try and connect with the painful past this region had experienced.

      Sambhaji was the eldest son of the Great King Shivaji of Maharashtra. While his life is a subject to great controversy, his death remains a sad chapter in history. It was at this place, Sangameshwar, that King Sambhaji would get caught alongwith his friend and advisor Kavi Kalash. They both would be put on camels, wearing Joker hats and torn clothes, and would be humiliatingly paraded all the way from here to Tulapur, about 300 kilometers from here.

      At Tulapur, he would be tortured daily, with the increasing degrees of pains. For showing him how much pain the next torture would cause, first Kavi Kalash would be subjected to the same, and then King Sambhaji would undergo the torture. Their nails plucked, skin peeled, eyes pricked, toungues torn out, the horrors kept on mounting day by day. Aurangzeb would keep on asking King Sambhaji to convert his religion, and upon his denial, he would go on torturing him. Finally in April 1689, exactly 325 years ago, Kavi Kalash and King Sambhaji would meet their deaths by axe at Tulapur.

      I opened my eyes, and found it was already half an hour since I first closed them. The ripples of the history started and witnessed by this place are alive even today. All it requires is a calm mind to connect to them.

      After paying my respect to the memory of King Sambhaji, I mounted Vesta and made by way to the Goa Highway. I was already in Konkan belt, and all it would take now was a right turn at any point to land up near the Arabian sea. The views were terrific now on, and it required an open set of eyes and mind to see the beauty lying next to the highway.



      As the light slowly started fading, I gunned Vesta towards her destination of tonight. I passed Ratnagiri on my way to Ganesh Gule. Ratnagiri is a very developed town, and took me quiet by surprise. The nice buildings, the wide roads, the unruly traffic akin to Pune, it showed signs of a city and not a rural area. Hence I crossed it with a hurry, as I had no interest in experiencing a city life again on my tour.

      The Bhatye beach is very near to Ratnagiri town. It is a favourite recluse of families and groups of friends. I reached there by 6.30pm, right in time to witness the sunset.









      Once the Sun went home, I too started to find my way to my bed tonight. The village of Ganesh Gule is around 15 kilometers from Ratnagiri. The road consists of straights and bit of twisty hill roads, but the surface was smooth and I made good speeds.

      Finding Ganesh Gule from Ratnagiri was bit tricky, due to no street lights. Here the HIDs on Vesta supported me fully, and I found my way to the Home stay at the village without any trouble.



      The home stay deserves a special mention. For such far-out village, the home stay is neat and clean. The room I took, the tree house, was one of a kind. I had stayed in tree houses in past, but this was actually a part of the tree itself. Some thick branches of the tree underneath were making their way towards the sky right from within the tree house! The sea could be heard very clearly, but it was out of sight due to darkness. The sky was littered with shiny stars, and thunders of the sea made sure I did not venture out much from my room, except for the tasty dinner.



      I slept neat and tight tucked under the blanket, while the sea provided the lullabies to drift me away to dreamland.


      Day 4 - Becoming one of the people

      However the morning sea was something different, as it was calling me to come and greet him. And I obliged ever so willingly. I ran to the sea first thing in the morning, and it welcomed me with open arms.







      This photo took a lot of retakes, and once I got the shot I wanted, I really needed that dip in the water!



      I really enjoyed my time running in the sand, dipping in the sea, and then finally just laying flat in the warm sand in the morning sun with my eyes closed. As the beach was mostly uninhibited, I need not worry about my cameras or the clothes to change ownerships.









      After some climb of a few kilometers, I found the temple, and parked Vesta under a tree, the only shadow in that area. I saw some structure in front, so went ahead to see it. It was a very deep well, about 100ft deep, with a hole to draw out water at one end, and with steps that reach to the bottom of the well at the other end.

      The steep climb down looked bit scary, and a claustrophobic person would have a hard time. The moist walls around you slowly encompass you as you are walking towards the little bit of water at the deep end of the stairs.





      The Shri Mahaganesh temple at Ganesh Gule is not much known, much lesser than the famous Ganesh Gule. The few people that visit, though, know about its legacy. Some even believe that one has to visit this place before Ganpati Gule! I heard this for the first time here though.

      The temple campus is small but clean. A few steps take you to the main hall of the idol, which I enthusiastically entered in. The main idol is not a shapely one, but rather resembles a stone.









      After a brief chat and a photo session, I moved back to my homestay for collecting my luggage and moving on with my exploration today.







      I took the coastal highway, which is really enjoyable. Most of the time you are riding on barren lands with hardly any populace. Whenever you pass through villages, there are many small attractions that keep on popping on either side of the road. The attractions were so many, that each of them called at me and ate up time, happily so.





      I too enjoyed stopping at random beaches, trying to see how much near the sea can I ride and so on.







      The construction of the temple was typically Konkani, with red laterite stone found in abundance in this region; the two stepped mud tiled roof that helped maintain cool in the scorching heat and helped get rid of water fast in storming monsoons, both very typical to this region.



      The prayer hall of the temple was completely wooden and neatly carved. The roof of the main hall of the temple was made out of pure copper sheets, as if to complement the Sun God. The main idol itself was carved out of black stone, and was beautifully adorned. There was also an 850 years old copper plate, which had inscriptions in Sanskrit.

      The beautiful paper design in the prayer hall





      I came out of the temple and headed towards Goa. The next temple that I went was at Adivare, just on the main road of the coastal highway. This temple consisted of three Goddesses, and is considered one of the major temple of Konkan area.







      However I could see many tourist friendly changes while I was riding fast on the unbelievably smooth tarmac of the interior of Konkan. The bridges have connected many parts of the lands that were separated by a gorge of sea-water.



      The roads are widened, so you are no longer playing the chicken game with oncoming traffic.



      The hotels were much more frequently seen (still not anywhere near the established tourist areas). But I felt happy that this beloved area of mine was finally realizing what it could become, and was taking slow and steady steps towards the same.



      For past 25 years, these HUGE windmills were gathering rust and counting their days in the world, and not a single watt of electricity was produced by any of these windmills ever. They stood without any maintenance looking sadly into the Arabian Sea. However, it was terrific site for clicking photos though!

      The inside of the house was contrastingly modern. It was a ground storey house with tiled roof, a dining table, and quite out of the place was an LCD tv. I was welcomed with a glass of water, and was asked my preference about food.

      I removed my armor and breathed the fresh air with all my body free from any hindrance now, and took a small stroll in the backyard of the house. There were few fruit trees and some flower trees. These cute little pineapples were ripening in one corner.



      Soon I could smell delicious flavors rising from the kitchen side. The Prabhu Deva movie that was blaring on the LCD notwithstanding; now my brain had supplied additional blood to my nostrils and my taste buds. I felt as if I could almost taste the food just by smell!

      In no time a piping hot lunch was in front of me.





      With bulging tummy and the belt loosened a few notches, I halted at a joint at Jamsande, a small junction in the village. There were many mango sellers. Devgad Alphonso are famous world over for their rich taste and sweetness, and I could not pass the opportunity of tasting the delicacy at its birthplace.

      Bought this plate and I found out why the mangoes have made their name in the tough market of brands! Absolutely delicious, even a non-foodie person like me could appreciate the difference between this mango and the ones we get in cities. And I was told that it would get even better once the season sets in!

      I moved on to Kunkeshwar - the Kashi of South Konkan. As it fell right on the way to Goa, requiring very little detour, I planned my next halt in the temple.



      I walked up in the temple, awed by its grandeur and strikingly different architecture. Unlike the typical Konkani temples or even carvings like the previous ones, this temple was remarkable in its Southern architecture style. The temple appeared quite colorful in appearance, partly resembling the multi-color Gompas (Tibetan temples) in Ladakh region. I wondered how a thousand year old temple could have such an Eastman color structure.



      I got the answer from the priest there, that the temple was painted in present bright colors a few years ago, when they renovated the campus. The temple was originally made out of black stone, the reminiscence of which could be seen in the main hall of the Shiva lingam. I was startled to see the thousand year old black beauty of the temple hidden behind the granites and the colorful exterior, but I believe the management must have had some strong reasons to change the historical look of the temple.

      I spent some quiet time in the large campus overlooking the 5 kilometers of sparkling golden beach and the Arabian Sea. Some say there were some rocks in the sea that resemble the Shivalingam, and they appeared when there is a low tide.



      It was a high tide when I was at Kunkeshwar and the low tide was quite some time away, according to the Timex on my wrist. So I moved on without witnessing this wonder.



      I rode hard, and saw my shadow stretching longer and longer due to the setting sun. Finally I halted at a nice empty stretch for a photography session.





      It started to become dark, and I was approaching the village of Tarkarli. I had been to Tarkarli many years ago, back when it was a sleepy village like many on the coastal Konkan. I was surprised to see it turned into a mini Goa! There were lots of signs for hotels and almost every house was a homestay. I could see possible accommodations for all budget ranges, right from the bottom of the pile to all the way to the top.

      The road was nicely marked with proper arrows, but it kept on getting narrower and narrower once I rode inside Tarkarli. I passed Malvan on the way with Sindhudurg fort in distance, and marched on till the end of the road.

      I checked in one of the many homestays that Devbag offered. After a filling dinner, I laid on my bed and I started thinking about the day I had. Today had been a completely Konkan day. I toured today not just as an outsider, but I felt I had managed to get a glimpse in Konkani life as well. I shared their faiths and prayed along with them, I ate their meals, respectfully interacted with their seniors and now sleeping in their homes.

      A wanderer doesn't just observe new lands as an outsider, he becomes one of the people!

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      • #4
        Re: Seven Stories - Thousand miles of wandering in Maharashtra


        Day 5 - Adventure unlimited

        Yesterday I had enjoyed the sea from its sides, except for the morning dip into the shallow part. Today I was going to meet the sea properly, and see it from all the angles; from the surface, from the air, as well as from underneath.

        I went near the Sangam to get into a motorboat that would take me into the backwaters and would start the activities.





        Boating in the backwaters was a very different experience than on the Koyana lake. In the lake, the boat ride was calm and relaxed. The sea on the other hand was constantly rippling. So the boat always moved up and down with the waves. I was reminded of the wrong way I took on the way to Bhuleshwar!




        The boatman started looking around for dolphins, and before I could roll my eyes in wonder, I heard a loud breath out and snapped my neck sharply to the left.
        But soon there was no room for doubt. We were surrounded by many groups of dolphins! It was an absolute joy to watch the dolphins swimming to the surface and getting back to the deep sea in a graceful arch, all with a loud HISS when they were in air.



        Soon the dolphins were actively playing the game of hide and seek, and thrillingly I took part in it. A hiss there, a buzz there, and we could spot many groups of dolphins showing off their shiny backs and smiling faces. I could see they were 2 to 3 meters long, if not more.



        I hope the dolphins enjoyed viewing us as much as we enjoyed seeing them!





        Around the beach, some giant rocks stood imposingly, shining wet with the crushing waves and sparkling in the morning light.







        Next was a quick ride around a sand island formed naturally in the backwaters. With the influx of tourists in this region, this island is slowly getting known as the Tsunami Island - thanks to a few overenthusiastic guides. However, this island is no way related to tsunami, and it has been there from long time. In local language, it is called Bhaat. In low tide, Bhaat would be very pleasant walk, with the blue backwaters surrounding the entire tiny island. There were many small shops of tea or snacks, and many adventure activities start on this island. Unfortunately, it was a high tide and the island was under water.

        I always had this fear rooted deep in my mind, the fear of flying. I had never been comfortable in aircrafts, nor had I enjoyed the Ferris wheels ride in childhood. Somehow, the idea of my feet leaving the ground had never been acceptable for me, and I had actively avoided or refused any event that required me to get on a parachute, be it paragliding at Mahabaleshwar, or jeep parasailing at Rajasthan.

        So I opted for parasailing in the backwaters. I hopped on the speedboat, and looked around nervously. It was spick and span, with all the necessary gears ready.



        I put my hands and feet into the required loops of nylon belts, and was safely secured to the parachute which was fluttering away behind me.




        I turned my head up to the sky, and a thought popped up. If I feel so overwhelmed when I was only a 100 meters away from the land, how would the real astronauts in the space stations feel?! I felt great respect towards the men and women who flew so high up, and those who made their journey possible.
        After being left alone on the top for some time (they say it is lonely at the top, how rightfully so!), slowly I was pulled towards the boat very smoothly.



        After the ride, I was dropped off at the Sangam - the confluence of the river and sea - to have some snacks and to walk back to the homestay, hardly 5 minutes away from the Sangam.

        My dose of adventure was not yet filled for today. I took out Vesta and headed to Sindhudurg fort for a session of scuba diving. The fort of Sindhudurg is an engineering marvel, still standing tall after 350 years. With its hidden main gate and 30 feet tall walls, it is a wonder to witness. It is suitably honored by the palm and foot print of the Great King Shivaji. Interestingly, for a fort with such a long history, the sea world of coral reef just next to the fort was discovered only a few years ago. I was curious to see how the world under the sea looked.



        The diving gear is mainly a pipe tied to you that brings oxygen (rather air) to you under water, and rubber shoes. I chose the rubber boots of my size, and stepped onto the ladder that led into the Sea.



        I ventured in with the Wrangler flag and the True Wanderer sticker, with the boat persons gathering curiously to see what it was, and wondering to whom I was going to advertise at the bottom of the ocean. Soon I and the diver reached the corals. It was an amusing sight.





        I had a lot of fun posing around the corals, and the fish under water were absolutely stunning. I advertised Wrangler brand to the fishes, and advised them to go for Sunshield denims to protect themselves from direct rays of Sun!







        While I was waiting on the boat for the ferry that would take me back to the land, a person from the crew gifted me this beautiful shell that he found in one of his dips!



        Such small villages always have a special eating place, and Malvan had it too. I visited the jam packed place, and managed to find a corner. The king fish was delicious.



        While returning, I halted at a cashew factory to buy fresh baked cashews. But as it was a Monday, all their stock had depleted! I roamed around inside and learnt the process of cashew making. It was a three step process.

        First, cashews from the fruits would be separated and dried. Then, they would be put in fire, and their burnt black shells would be removed. Finally they would be roasted in a drum, and would end up in packets.



        I called home to tell my whereabouts and well being.



        It was a wonderful high speed chase of the daylight, and I reached Goa as lights began to dim. I reached to Panji at 8pm, asking around my way, and started to scout for hotels.

        I saw hotels that were way over my budget or way under my acceptance level. After a lot of hunt, I finally managed to find a hotel on Miramar beach, and called it a day.



        I had my fill of beaches and sea, and tomorrow a different venue called me very early in the morning. Besides, some dogs on the street were fully recharged by all the daylight, it seemed, and came barking in full volume and at full speed. So I returned to the hotel for dinner and lights out.

        The adventure activities done during the day made sure all the bones in my body made their presence felt while sleeping. Today I saw the beauty of the Sea from all three angles, sky, surface, and beneath. I was content that I finally met my fears, and conquered them. I had taken one more step on the path of a Wanderer.




        Few of the locals were already up and sleepwalking to their destinations. I halted near one and awoke him from his waking dream:
        There were a few dogs sleeping around, but their batteries were drained by overnight talking and barking, it seemed, so they just growled at me in their sleep before dropping their heads back down in slumber.



        The best time to watch these birds is very early morning, or late evening, as for the rest of the day the birds prefer chilling out in the deep woods. However in morning, the yummy insects at the river side call to them. Many beautiful birds leave their safe house in the jungle and come outside for breakfast. This would be the best time to see them, and this was why I was up so early.

        I waited for some time in front of the huge ferry boat that looked big enough to carry bigger vehicles across the island. In distance, the island was blinking its small lights, as if it was awaiting the arrival of the first visitors of the day.



        Across the river, I met the guide who would take me in his boat in the waters of the Mandovi river. I rode Vesta for a few hundred meters, taking myriad of turns and parked her under a shade of a big tree. The guide joined me, and led me to the boat.

        The path to the boat was extremely slippery and mushy. The villagers had put some large stones in order to have some walkway in the slippery path, so I tiptoed my way across them. The birds were already up, and I could hear some unbelievably beautiful melodies from the birds hidden from view.



        Soon the boat was free from the clutches of the mud, and we were set to ride ahead. Surprising even myself, I managed to get into the boat without any fall, and sat tight in anticipation on the seat next to the guide.



        The guide was upgraded with hawk eyes, it seemed. He could spot birds from great distances despite of their camouflage. Without a guide or a trained eye, your boat ride in this river would be more ordinary than a boat ride in a swimming pool. But once you start seeing birds, then the true enjoyment begins.



        As we moved on, the guided began pointing clearly and telling the names of the birds that were out for their early breakfast. We saw kingfisher, blue kingfisher, lots of brahmini ducks and many other birds.



        There were many green and red herons, which looked pretty same, and the difference came from the color of their legs. I must confess that I had never been a bird watcher ever. But here I was not required to be one, to appreciate the beauty radiating from such birds, tiny and large both.





        There were many other birds which I forgot the names of, and it was not possible to document it as the birds kept on coming and the guide kept on pointing. I found it more enjoyable to let the names flow over my ears, and take the beauty of the bird in by a careful look.

        The bird sanctuary was a very beautiful place, and I felt as if I was being ferried around for the birds to look at me, rather than the other way around!





        We ventured into a few small by-lanes of the Mandovi river where the gorge was narrow and the speeds had to be slow.

        The sun had slowly risen, and yet it had not put on the full burner. So I was enjoying the little warmth it spread out, with the birds chilling out on the sides of the river. It was a peaceful world, where one did not disturb another, and all were content in their own presence.





        It was surprising to realize that I was so near to Goa, the happening place for all the night long parties and booze and chicks. Here I too was looking at chicks, but they were of literal meaning and not figurative one!









        Some had their fruits nicely tucked into a star like structure!





        The flora and fauna in this world was amazing, and it was very different than the usual trees we were accustomed to see in the beach belt.



        Saw this bird drying its wings in style, caring two hoots as to who looks at it.





        We took a U turn, and crossed the river to look at other side. The guide took the boat into a narrow gorge, where a fisherman had set up a hut. The guide halted the boat in the middle, and jumped from one boat to another to get to the hut. I remained seated in the boat wondering how deep the river would be. The guide soon returned with a happy face and a potful of fresh river faces. I did not recognize any one of them, though, as I am more of a sea fish person.







        If you are in Goa for some period, I would definitely suggest to wake up early one morning and do this exercise. It would be a new side of tourism and you would be recharged to enjoy your rest of the journey. There is also a walking path for the sanctuary, but you are more likely to see birds in your boat trip.





        I mounted Vesta and found my way back to the jetty. I saw a peacock in a field grazing in distance.



        Also saw this small church on the island.



        The jetty was having bit of a traffic waiting for the ferry. It was a bumper car ride for two wheelers. Just like the bumper cars in fairs, here the bikes were using other bikes to halt. I too bumped my way around and stood in the herd waiting for our turns to get on the ferry. Once I was on the boat ushered in with a hurry, I noticed I was facing the inside of the ferry! I wondered how I was going to get off without turning Vesta towards the way out. However once the ferry reached the opposite shore, all the bikes around me took synchronized turns, and in no times the ferry was emptied for the next lot.

        I came back to the hotel via some narrow lanes with typically Goan buildings. I noticed that the Goan architecture was notably different, and one could identify the buildings from Goa as being separate than at other places.

        Many late waking moms were scurrying up their kids to schools on their buzzing scooters, and I had to ride carefully in order to not come in their paths. Rest of the traffic was quite orderly.







        I rocked Vesta to and fro and filled up every gap and crevice in the petrol tank.



        Returned to hotel, breakfast and after blogging for an hour, I began wondering where to head next.



        I went through my journey for past 5 days, and reviewed the places I had visited. I realized I had covered a number of aspects of the beauty of Maharashtra. I had been to natural wonders, the fields, the vast sea line, the jungles, the temples; but one most important aspect was still not covered in my itinerary. How can anyone claim he has seen the majestic Maharashtra without seeing even one of its many grand forts?

        Maharashtra is known as the land of the forts, and I had not yet been to one on this journey. I had only seen Sindhudurg from the outside, but the visit was not for the fort, but rather for the diving. The wandering was not yet complete, and I was not yet clear to return home unless I paid a visit to a fort.

        Keeping this point in my mind, I checked out of the hotel and moved on. While leaving Goa, I noticed my speedometer, and clicked a photo at an interesting moment. I had completed 1000kms on this tour.











        This region is also famous for a pack of cards, called Ganjifa. Ganjifa, or originally Ganjifeh, is a Mughal era game of cards. In Sawantwadi, an Indian version of the game is played. The pack of cards has 120 hand-drawn round cards, and it is played by three persons. The system of the game is interesting, though a bit complicated. The cards however were very beautiful to look at, with each card painted intricately. It requires a lot of time for an artist to create one pack of such cards.



        When I was young, I had a wooden car from Sawantwadi, and I had a lot of happy memories playing with it. I was overjoyed when I saw the same model still on sale, after 20 years!



        After the lunch, I entered the steep and twisty Amboli Ghat. The ghat consisted of many small steep patches that curved at the end into another steep road. I enjoyed the twisties a lot on Vesta, and slithered on like a snake.





        There are a few tourist points in Amboli, like Hiranyakeshi river origin, some view-points etc. But this was not the season to enjoy them the fullest, so I kept on accelerating and passing them one by one.





        After Amboli, my halt was at Ajara. There is a place about 3 kms inside the main road, called Ramtirth. Similar to Amboli, there is a waterfall here that comes into bloom in monsoons. But unlike Amboli, it is not dried up for the rest of the months. There is always good amount of water in the depths of the stones that form natural basins for the flowing water from Amboli.



        There is a legend that Lord Rama had stayed here for a few days when he was in exile, hence the name Ram-Tirth.

        I joined the main road for heading towards the NH4. The road was gleaming bright in the late afternoon light, and riding on the beautifully canopied smooth tarmac was a pleasure.







        I could sense the atmosphere slowly changing its appearance. From the usual burning attire, it went cold to windy very fast. At one point, when I was riding towards Kolhapur, I literally shivered inside the jacket, such was a sudden drop in temperature. I wondered whether there had been a rainfall nearby, and whether I would have to face one.

        Soon I could see clouds gathering up in the skies in the direction I was going. I kept on looking at the sky, trying to judge the direction I was heading and the condition of sky in that direction. For the first time in my rides in Maharashtra, the sky started to scare me. It was not the possibility of rain, I was prepared for that. But it was this sudden change in the atmosphere and the gathering of clouds that kept me on my toes, and I kept on accelerating Vesta.



        But the speeds were not enough, and soon I could feel the 150KG Vesta slightly wavering and swinging due to heavy crosswinds. The trees on the road appeard as if they were waving their arms, with all the branches swinging wildly. I had to find a shelter fast, but there was no village nearby.

        The winds took on wild forms, and soon the dry sand on the roads was being blown up everywhere. We heard a loud tearing noise, and peeped out of the shade to find that the roof of a nearby structure was in tatters, and now it was fluttering in the strong winds.

        It was scary, and it was quick. It was over in about 10 minutes. Slowly I and other refugees came out go see whether there had been any damage. One of the bikes had fallen due to the winds. Luckily Vesta had stood strong, and there was no damage except she was covered with dust all over. I quickly dusted her, and rode her hard in order to pass this region. But again, the momentary break offered by the thunderstorm was over, and it was planning its next move again.

        Just after a few kilometers, I saw the storm approaching in a distance. I did not want to wait under a tree in case of lightning; I kept on looking for shelters while controlling the shivering Vesta in the strong winds. There was a big petrol pump up ahead in a distance, but the winds were gathering strength, and reaching there seemed impossible. There was a small house made out of laterite stone on a corner of the road, so I directed Vesta there.

        I got down hurriedly, and parked Vesta properly, and told her to hold her ground strongly in case of heavy winds. I was wondering where I should hide from the impeding storm, when I heard the door open behind me.

        I had no choice but to accept. I hurriedly entered in the house, and he closed the door behind. I could not see anything inside the room, it was pitch black inside. As I was coming from bright sunlight to the dark room, my eyes took some time to adjust their aperture.

        Soon the lady of the house offered me a hot cup of tea, and I found my voice again. I introduced myself, and asked a few general questions. I found out that I was in the house of a farmer living on the farm itself. While I was bit ashamed to barge into their house, they were very cool about it.

        The father-son farmer duo had terrific grasp on weather terms. When I heard the storm getting weak, I announced my plans to move out. They opened the door, looked at the sky and told me to wait for 5 more minutes. They estimated that the storm was almost on its way out, and I would be safe towards the Kolhapur side.

        The storm really subsided in next few minutes, and life started getting back on track slowly. A few neighbors and passersby were stopping by, to chat with the owner. I heard discussions of how roofs of some houses were damaged and how some trees had fallen.

        (Photo from mobile)

        It was some new design top that required a smooth surface such as glass or a tile. In order to demonstrate them the working, I began searching for a smooth surface, and soon realized with a sinking feeling in my stomach that there was no smooth surface in that house of stones and mud. Right from the hard floor made out of mud to the wooden surface of the bed without any mattress, there was no smooth surface to demonstrate the toy.


        (Photo from mobile)

        Traffic at both the sides had come to a standstill, and people were looking at each other clueless. Upon inquiring, I heard various answers that a tractor was called, or people would cut down the tree! Both the options were time consuming, was there any third option?


        (Photo from mobile)
        While sleeping, I wondered that if we humans suffer so much because of the storms, what the poor helpless birds in the Charao island would do if they had to face the same?

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        • #5
          Re: Seven Stories - Thousand miles of wandering in Maharashtra

          Excellent ride...
          Ketan Nikharge.
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          • #6
            Re: Seven Stories - Thousand miles of wandering in Maharashtra


            Day 7 – Homeward bound

            For second day in a row, I woke up at 4.30 AM again today. Today my first place to visit was the grandiose fort of Panhala.

            Panhala fort has a glorious history to tell. It was here that the King Shivaji was trapped inside the fort by Adilshahi’s Siddi Jauhar. Despite of numerous attempts, the siege showed no sign of relief, and the situation became desperate. A direct attack was not possible, because there were about 10,000 Adilshahi soldiers whereas King Shivaji had only 600. King Shivaji then planned a daring escape, that would be subject of numerous songs and folklores ever since.

            King Shivaji spread false news that he was willing to negotiate a treaty, and relaxed Siddi Jauhar a bit, as his many months siege would finally end. Then on a full moon night, a group of soldiers surrounded the King and they made their way out quietly, via a hidden path. But they were sighted, and Siddi ordered them to be arrested and brought before him. When the small group was nabbed and was brought ceremoniously in front of him, Siddi Jauhar realized with a shock that this was not the real King Shivaji, but rather an imposter! A lot of time had already been spent, and the team with real King Shivaji would have reached far ahead. Yet, with renewed vigour, Siddi sent forces to capture King Shivaji, who was now heading to Vishalgad, about 60 kilometers away from Panhala.

            When King Shivaji was nearing Vishalgad, the group could hear the approaching Adilshahi forces. It was here when the General Baji Prabhu Deshpande took position at the narrow pass of Ghod Khind (Horse Pass) that allowed only a handful soldiers to pass at once, and asked King Shivaji to move ahead. The battle at Ghod Khind was fierce, with 300 soldiers stopping thousands. Every one of them was bloodied, and yet was brandishing swords and weapons madly towards the enemy soldiers, with one thought in mind – the King should be safe.

            Meanwhile, Vishalgad was under siege too, but King Shivaji with his handful men attacked it with a grand vigor and broke it. Once he reached Vishalgad safely, the cannons were blasted, indicating the King has arrived. Only after hearing this assurance did the General laid his life down.

            Baji Prabhu Deshpande remains a chapter of courage in the Maharashtra history, and Panhala was the place that Siddi tore up his hairs when the King escaped from such a tight siege.

            Panhala fort is hardly an hour away from Kolhapur city by vehicle. A nice road leads you to the fort. Kolhapur city was already up and running by the time I hit the road. The Sun had not yet rose, but his rays were already arrived. It was refreshing to ride in the early morning rays and the chill.



            The fort is located at a height, so there is a mild ghat section that leads on to the fort. While covering the ghat, I noticed that it was time of the sunrise, and the Sun had reported dot on time.



            There was a masjid en route to the fort.



            The fort is like a proper village, with schools, hospitals and many hotels suitable for all budget ranges. I had seen a number of forts, but I had not yet seen a fort where one can drive a motorcycle around and into!







            As there were tar roads leading to everywhere, I explored the fort using Vesta. Panhala is a large fort, and the locations are scattered a distance away from one another. One would have very tough time to walk his or her way through all the points. It is better to take a vehicle and cover the interim distances between various places on the fort.



            I first visited the Andhar Baav – the hidden well. The structure of this well is similar to a small fort, and a new person would never guess the stairs leading to the water.



            Whenever an army would besiege a fort, the water supply would be the first to get contaminated. In order to avoid this, this well was constructed in appearance of a small fort, and had recesses where soldiers could be stationed.





            There are several escape routes from the Andhar Baav that lead outside the fort.

            I then went to Ambarkhana – the granaries.





            There are 3 big buildings used to store grains. It was this huge storage that allowed King Shivaji to hold put for 5 months despite the tight siege. The three kothis – Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati could hold about 8000 tons of grains.







            There is a pathway that allows two wheelers to pass through another structure – Teen Darvaja. I was surprised to see the two wheelers and Omnis wheeling past the stony structure.









            The teen darvaja is the main entrance to the fort, consisting of double gates with a court in between.


            Konkan Darvaja – another entrance to the fort



            The fort had many scenic locations, and I really enjoyed my time spent on top.














            Unlike many other forts, here I did not need worry about getting food or water thanks to the numerous hotels.

            After roaming on the fort and taking in its historical contribution, I headed back to Kolhapur, but not without having the breakfast of the region – Kolhapuri Missal.



            After returning to Kolhapur, I went to the Mahalaxmi temple. This temple is one of the three and a half places of power ( Sade Tin Shakti Pith). Mahalaxmi – The Goddess of wealth - is the wife of Shri Balaji of Tirupati, and pilgrims visit both the temples in one trip.





            Luckily it was a weekday and there was not much crowd. I could see the temple and its surroundings in peace.

            It is a beautiful temple, buzzing with many people. There are numerous small temples in the periphery of the main temple within its campus. But due to the security, I could not take cameras inside.

            After the darshan, I came out of the temple, collected the cameras from the locker counter, and went on a stroll in the Kolhapur market.





            As expected around any temple, there were many flower-sellers doing their business. The smell of such fresh flowers in early morning was rejuvenating.





            The Kolhapuri chappals have become an identity over the years. Their particular style and their typical Karr-Karr noise when the wearer walks proudly are clearly distinguishable.



            I too roamed around looking at the various chappal shops. I found one store with the biggest chappal I had ever seen!



            And the smallest ones too!



            After the stroll in the market, I returned to hotel and checked out. Loaded the luggage on Vesta and asked her not to burn any part of it again. I was riding to home, and I did not want to reach showing smoke rising from my behind.

            The highway ride was easy, and high speeds were easily possible. But by getting up very early for two consecutive days, I was feeling extremely drowsy. I would not feel so sleepy on twisty roads, but on straight highways, it was hard to remain completely alert. So I took a lot of halts for coffee and water, to brush off sleep from my eyes.

            At one halt, a runner with a burning torch in his hand passed me. I was seeing such torch bearers for a few days now, and wondered what the story was behind their run. A support group was on a motorcycle behind him, and I hailed them down.

            ‘What’s the running all about? What’s with the torch?’ I asked genuinely.

            ’This is for King Shivaji’s birth day today.’ One of them replied in earnest. ‘We began our run from Sindhudurg a few days ago, and now we are making a run towards our village near Satara. We take turns after every 12 kilometers.’



            After the running torch bearer, many thoughts started overflowing in my mind. I had been riding for past seven days across various portions of Maharashtra. The places, the people, the situations, all the memories came rushing forwards, overwhelming me. I had to halt at the side of the road to write whatever came to my mind, in order to keep it with me forever and not lose it in the passage of time.



            I reached Satara, and halted for lunch at the previous hotel, where I had lunch on the second day of this ride. I was feeling drowsy, and decided to take a power nap. Suddenly I felt the curtains of the hotels fluttering, and looked at the highway. The dry dust flew off in one swift motion, and I realized this was a prelude to another storm! The sleep that had been bothering me for past few hours suddenly turned chicken and ran away. I was fully awake and alert.

            I had one last point on agenda before heading on home. There was a small village called ‘Sangam Mahuli’ not too far from here. It is located on the confluence of two rivers, Krishna and Venna. It is famous for its three old temples, Vishveshwar, Sangameshwar and Rameshwar. But now the incoming storm was threatening my plans to visit this beautiful place.

            ‘What should I do now?’ I thought hard. ‘Should I rush forward towards home and reach safely, or should I visit Sangam Mahuli and risk facing the storm?’
            I decided a wanderer is not deterred by a natural event, and I would not let a freak storm decide my itinerary for the day. So I paid the bill at the hotel and turned towards Sangam Mahuli, keeping a weather eye on the horizon.

            The temples were located near the confluence, two on one side and one across the river. These temples were huge and breathtaking in their appearance. I parked Vesta under a tree and went on clicking the photos. The beautiful tall temples had stood the test of times, braving the weather and the years.











            After Sangam Mahuli, I returned victoriously to Vesta, and mounted her to ride home. But on the highway, the storm had already gathered up friends and was becoming stronger every minute. I took refuge in a big petrol pump.

            Soon other travelling people began gathering as well, as none wanted to travel in a windy storm. There was no room to hide, only a tall roof to stand below and each other for company and support. Suddenly we could feel drops of water hitting us at an angle, and it was a full blown hail storm!



            Tiny bits of ice began hitting fast, and I was amazed and terrified whether they would take a bigger form. Luckily their shape didn’t exceed the acceptable limit, and there was no damage because of the hail storm. But it drenched me completely by the time I donned the rainwear.

            It took a breather a while later, and people started making their way out. I too proceeded cautiously. A few kilometers later, it was dry as a bone! There was no sign of rains or storm, and I started to feel ridiculous in the fully covered rainwear. But I was too tired to get off and remove it, so I kept on riding, thankfully so. Because after a few kilometers again, I entered into a rainy area, and it continued giving me company till almost all the way till Pune.

            Now I had it with the mood swings of the weather, so I twisted the accelerator and Vesta rushed forward, cutting through the winds and the rains like knife cuts butter. She rode hard and strong, and brought me safe towards the entry bridge of a dry Pune.



            There is this bridge built across a valley. It is Asia’s biggest such bridge, and it is a matter of pride for many Pune-ites.

            Just after this picture, the rain God started showering his love and didn’t give me chance to take out my cameras again. The city’s traffic signals were not working due to rains, and it was a jungle out there. After travelling on empty roads, I was finding it odd to tackle so much traffic. But I kept my patience, and kept on riding sanely. While I was returning from my True Wanderer journey, in a way everyone was returning to their homes after a wandering of their own.

            I finally reached my home, and parked Vesta in the parking lot. Tomorrow there’d no early wake up to watch beautiful birds, or to witness sunrise from a fort. There wasn’t going to be any lullaby by the roaring sea to put me to sleep, nor was I going to be awakened by a peacock’s call. The journey had just completed, and I was already beginning to miss it dearly.

            I took a last look at Vesta. She too looked content and proud, having never let me down at any point during the journey of 1600 kilometers in seven days.
            I unloaded my luggage, and let Vesta breathe freely without anything on her. I stood besides her, petting her absent mindedly. The True Wanderer journey had come to an end. And I felt so different than I did seven nights ago standing on this very same spot. ‘That’s the beauty of wandering’, I thought. ‘It fills one up with happiness and humility’.

            Lost in the thoughts, with an aching body, I climbed up the stairs and rung the bell. The door opened to a number of happy faces – I had returned to my world.


            The wanderer returned home

            And the wanderer returned home, sometime late at night
            He expected everyone to be asleep, but they were up and bright
            Happily they gathered around him, helped him unlock the things
            They asked him about his well being and they inquired about his wanderings

            ‘How was the past week?’ they wanted to know everything
            ‘I am really tired now’ he said, ‘can we talk tomorrow morning?’
            ‘No, no!’ they shouted in unison, ‘we wanted to hear it now!’
            ‘If not everything, then tell us one best thing you’ve come to know’

            He pondered a while, and said ‘Went to places I’d never been,
            I tasted many new foods, and saw the things I’d never seen
            I travelled far away, and finally faced my life-long fears
            Sometimes got into situations that jerked out my stubborn tears!’

            ‘I had grand plans’, he kept on musing,
            ‘I wanted to learn about everything’
            ‘I went in hopes of finding a few good stories
            And I returned with a precious treasure of memories’

            ‘I saw man made miracles and natural wonders.

            Met interesting people, faced treacherous thunders.
            But one thing I remember above it all,
            That in past seven days I really missed you all’

            A wanderer never travels alone; he rides on the prayers of his loved one and friends.
            ‘I am honored by the support you have always been, I hope that this love never ends.’


            Special thanks to Wrangler, Myntra.com, Shoppers Stop and xBhp.com for True Wanderer 3.0 and for making this ride possible.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Seven Stories - Thousand miles of wandering in Maharashtra

              Awesome pics and writeup.
              A bike on the road is worth two in the shed.

              Weekend Rides Around Kolkata
              My Ride To Sunderbans -
              Hemnagar & Samsernagar
              Saagar Kinare - Bakkhali Calling

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Seven Stories - Thousand miles of wandering in Maharashtra

                An explorer of a different kind. I loved the 7 story concept. Beautifully written. The pics form a part of the story. A million stars for this write up. Kudos brother.
                Everybody has their own version of TRUTH!!!!!!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Seven Stories - Thousand miles of wandering in Maharashtra

                  Awesome write up and pics bro.... The way you narrated is beautiful.....

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Seven Stories - Thousand miles of wandering in Maharashtra

                    Thanks for the kind words friends. Hope you liked the travelogue Today is the last day of voting for the same.

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