Re: Ladakh '14- Dreams to reality on R15


I was hit with AMS the evening we reached Leh and that night I didn't have food nor the OMR tonic. Thanks to doc and his medicines, I was feeling lot better the next day morning . we met some other guys riding from Mumbai staying in the same hotel and they apparently were friends with sashank. Plans were cooking that they will be riding with us but they had already completed Khardung La and our next destination was the biggest, the highest and the toughest Khardung La.



The earlier day since we reached early we all got our bikes fixed from Tashi( the best and oldest RE Mechanic in Leh). Headlight assembly was broken for my bike and entire fearing was hanging on only fibre clams on the Fearing.

I got the same welded in and purchased tanks for carrying excess fuel. I planned to buy Gumboots from leh market but i missed it and realised it later that it was my biggest mistake.



Today morning while having breakfast we called in the agent who will be making our permits for the areas surrounding LOC, we had listed, Marsimik La, Chushul, Nyoma , Hanle.
We were in a dilemma whether to ride the same day ahead or take halt in Leh and visit the surrounding areas. Somehow monasteries didn't excite me lot and after getting glimpse of what they are at lamayaru I was okish with skipping that part.

His highness the Dalai Lama had landed in leh today and most of the Gov officials were not available in their offices. Agent told us that permits will only be handed over to us by 4 in the evening.

Rest of the group made a plan to visit khardung La and come back in leh, wherein me and doc were keener in visiting Diskit, Hunder, Paramik and Turtuk.

Doc and me decided to ride along with the group till khardung and then march ahead till hunder take a night halt their and meet rest of the group next day at Pangong and all of were gonna go to Pangong lake tomorrow.




Rest of the group agreed to carry our permits to pangong lake tomorrow coz we were gonna need them while heading to Marsimik La.

4 riders left for the ascend. Doc and I left after 30 Min. Our time was wasted with saddling up coz 2 bags that doc purchased in Kashmir had almost given up .

Roads and vistas were super amazing till the check post of north Pullu. post which roads were in pathetic condition. Though we didn't have slush on the roads but wet muddy roads at an elevation of 4K+ with a 150CC sports version bike. But hell it was Fun.




Had to wait quite a lot of times. Those roads were testing our patience big time. The ascend was getting tougher with every minute, less oxygen in the air, Smoke had been killing the lings anyhow.

Initial off roading was still okay, but last 10Km was almost impossible.

Soon we were on the Ktop. It might sound funny to you all, but I was in tears while ascending the last few kilometers, I am not sure why but I was very emotional . I was happy and in tears coz the dream that I had been dreaming about was about to complete and hell it was never an easy job. For every completion that has to be a sacrifice that needs to be made and thats the rule of nature.

Without my much dumb shit talk’s ill let the pictures do the talking.













We had it at the back of our mind that we need not stay at the top for more than 30Min . By the time we were at the top it was 5pm . After some pics we decided to descend coz the cafeteria and the souvenir shop both were closed.

Started our bikes and within 200 Mtrs we realised there's landslide with mountain of snow blocking the entire road. Doc and I were just looking at each other.






Post some wait 6 guys/girls from ukraine tried to cross the landslide by making way on top of the slided snow and we helped them on it. All 6 Bullets passed with lot of push, while me and doc decided to wait for the army boulder to come. A cab driver from the other said advised us to get the bikes across the snow, there is a water stream some 10Km down and its heavy as water has started to flow at its full stream and it could be impossible to cross it.

While we were talking the boulder arrived and the road was cleared within some time and we were back on the road.









Hell broke down when we saw a good 1Km traffic jam, manoeuvring from the traffic we reached the point where all 6 bulleters were standing and staring at the water stream. The problem with the stream was the width and the pressure with which the water was flowing. Traffic on the both sides was blocked. Neither would the boulder be able to do anything about it . So evidently we had to help ourselves.

Got into water with plastic bags tied up above socks inside the shoes. Hell it was of no use. Helped the lady by crossing her RE across the water stream, then Doc's Duke and finally my Beast.

Within minutes after crossing the stream, removed shoes and water from the boots. I was almost about to die with frost Bite. Wore new pair of sock but didn't have another dry shoes so continued riding for 60KM in intense pain and finally near khardung village I gave up and asked doc to search accommodation and call it a night at khardung village instead of riding till Hunder.

Re: Ladakh '14- Dreams to reality on R15

Awesome .


Sent from my LG-L9 Via Google voice typing

Re: Ladakh '14- Dreams to reality on R15

Wow, How did I miss this thread? Congrats on completing your dream ride. Nice writeup and pics too.[emoji41] So I guess the next R15 Special Edition to cover Leh would be mine! [emoji16] [emoji106]

Re: Ladakh '14- Dreams to reality on R15

Wow..! Great set of pics there. Nice t-log.

Re: Mumbai Leh Mumbai 20 days of Extreme Adventures with R15

Many Congratulations. Brilliant pics.

Re: Ladakh '14- Dreams to reality on R15

Thank you all rest will be updated soon ..

Re: Ladakh '14- Dreams to reality on R15

killer pics bro,,, wow,,,, just so damm amazing,,,,,,,,,u know i had the same issue of connecting rods being broken ans fairing hanging by the thread only when went to sikkim,, we encountered bunkers like potholes enroute ,,, i had to do the welding man in the middle of our ride,,,,

Bro,, a question how did the R15v2 perform while K-TOP climb,,,, did it has any issue,, or it just climbed like an ease.... i mean i m really intrigued by this question since long,,

Re: Ladakh '14- Dreams to reality on R15

Before we could reach leH. Due to camel humps Enroute Rajasthan . Bike was bumped on couple of them at triple digit speeds. The Y metal rod connecting the fearing and headlight assembly was broken . When asked at the Yamaha service station.they advised me to change the entire front fearing which I did. But before we could reach udhampur it was broken again. Got it welded from a mechanic in LeH ..

Answering your question . Ktop climb was flawless inspite of me and the saddlebags,huge sleeping bag & tent on the bike . I faces problems in the ascend at baralacha where I have open the bike seats, petrol tank and remove and clean the filter. Apart from that no huddles till I reached mumbai

Re: Ladakh '14- Dreams to reality on R15

what are these camel humps bro,,, i heard several ppl talking about same,,,, even some said they felled from bike due to such humps,,,,,,,,,

Re: Ladakh '14- Dreams to reality on R15

Do u remember humps on camels back . Same kinda humps are formed on tar road around Rajasthan and they are not visible mostly till it's under your front tyre ..

Re: Ladakh '14- Dreams to reality on R15

Day 9 - khardung - Tso Pangong

We were lucky last night to find accommodation at khardung . It was a small home stay with 150 per person for stay and some 100 bucks per head for food. After the last river crossing which made me irresistible to cold and riding was sending chills all over my body. We reached south Pullu and requested army guys to let us stay at the medical camp but they denied stating they are full and restaurant at south Pullu had already accommodated some foreign tourist which left us with no option but to ride till the next village which was 60 odd kms with temp hitting 1-2 degrees and completely wet shoes and socks ... Doc was understanding my situation as I was feeling dizzy but pitching tents at such high altitudes with no water and water was a real bad idea. Kept on descending passing small streams of water looking at dull landscapes due to low sunlight. But it was "will" which kept me on the bike till next village.


Phunsuk the home stay guy was very helpful and helped me and doc in unloading the bags from the bikes and carrying it to the first floor in our rooms. With a quick change into dry clothes ordered food and OMR tonic but with high intensity cold and pain in my feet all I could do is remove the sleeping bag, put it on my bed ,lie inside it and take 2 more layers to protect from cold and sleep.i guess it was an hour when Phunsuk woke me up for food . Though doc gave up and I had to eat some food for medication purposes.


Night was spent good and we were all set to move the next morning. Shashank , Nishir and rest of the guys were supposed to meet us today evening at Pangong lake with our permits ahead for marsimik La. Doc and me made a decision to skip Nubra valley and move towards Pangong Lake . While having breakfast we got to know that Wari La is closed due to heavy snowfall at the pass from last few days that's when the legendary plan was put forth and it was the “agham shyok route ".


Like I mentioned earlier this is one of the riskiest and not preferred routes and that was the reason why I wanted to go from this route. We had well paved road for 80% of our ride through this route...


As per the maps we were supposed to cross 2 major river crossings and most of our journey was supposed to be on a road which is situated along the river.. But like the old people always say reality is always different... the road wasn't along the river but was inside the river...






This was the moment were me and Doc were completely ascertained of what to do but we dint want to waste more days by heading back to Leh and wait for Wari La to open. Without a second thought we took a right hander off to Agham.



Roads were pretty good throughout till we reached the first small village with only one house and asked them for directions. They advised to hurry up as shyok river is on high Flows and even the army is having issues crossing the river.. We kept moving ahead on the road passing through beautiful canvas created by nature.



First View of Shyok River













This was an outstanding straight stretch of road for 40 km with no diversions whatsoever, Doc and me switched to MotoGp mode and was riding on triple speeds. But reality wasn't Far, we reached first river crossing and took a sigh of relief. We had a well-built Iron bridge on the river bed. I had read multiple threads about people not able to cross this river crossing because of the breath of the river but it was a mere cake walk for us. Immediately after the bridge we saw some army tents but with high adrenaline rush we didn't bother to wait and check the situation ahead and that’s when the Tarmac vanished and big sea bed round stones became our road. Speeds dropped to mere 10-15 km.
With completely loaded bikes it was very difficult to manoeuvre the bikes. Finally we saw the 2nd river crossing and I was like man we are SCREWED Completely. Road was completely cut due to heavy water flow from the glaciers. Batteries for the cameras were exhausted hence we could click pics for the river. But the river crossing was at least 300 Mtrs long. Exactly i am talking about the width of the river.. Got off the bike to check the water levels and within 3 footsteps in water i was wet above knee level and we learned it is impossible to cross the river on bikes.


We got back to the army camp with devastated state of mind and completely wet. Army folks were very helpful. They provided us with food which was dal, chawal, sabji and papad with Tropicana.
We were told it is impossible to cross the river now as the flow has increased from last 4 days. They have been posted there for over 7 months as army is building a new road which will bypass the river completely but it will take 6 months for completion. After an hour army guys said they have a construction high rise truck which will be going near the river to give water for people working on the roads. After our request they agreed to put our bikes on the truck with our luggage and help us cross it.






Will post a small video later on how the bikes were loaded on the bikes..





Approx 60 km post river crossing roads were bad but later we got smooth tarmac till we reached Durbuk.





Like I mentioned earlier we wanted to reach Pangong by night and we were not able to get in touch with rest of the guys as they were carrying our permits for Marsimik La and Hanle.









Post tangtse we took left but really can’t forget this place as there is another Epic history with this milestone. Which will shared on Day 10 Post..
Took a left and were riding in a completely different serene vistas of Chumthang Valley..










We were tired exhausted and were almost going to give up riding ahead and pitch in tent at a suitable place for the night. Previously seen pics for Pangong lake were in my memories with a negative feeling and thats when i saw this..





We reached here at 6.30 in the evening with no contact with rest of the guys and no network on phones.. I did notice temp drop even worse than Leh..












Ended our day at a tent in Pangong lake and we could trace any of our guys till 9.30 with no coverage on phones...

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Day 10 - Tso Pangong – Durbuk



We managed to reach Pangong Lake by late evening; searching place to stay was a big task.

Especially after an amazing adventure we had enroute on the Shyok Route. Rates for the tented accommodation were ranging from 2000-2500 per person with food just for night. Managed to get some okaish place for 2500 with food for 2 people after good bargaining. Inspite of the thick mattress provided by the hotel guys, I was sleepless whole night due to cold and had to get my sleeping bag inside the mattress in the middle of the night.

Today we had something huge on the mind, we wanted to complete Marsmik La today and was planning to reach Hanle by the night, only goof up was we are supposed to have permits to travel on this road. We had already booked our permits while we were in Leh but our friends who were supposed to leave leh the next day of what we left were supposed to meet up in pangong with the permits and we were supposed to travel together ahead. As we reached late last night we were not sure if the other folks are staying at some other hotel in the vicinity. From 7.30 in the morning me and started to search for them and their bikes but to our utter disappointment we were not able to meet them.


There was no point wasting time sitting in the tents waiting for them, so me and Doc decided to ride ahead towards the army check post thinking if they have passed ahead they might keep our permits there. We finally made a strong decision to skip marsmik La.
The morning at Tso Pangong is spectacular. Pictures might not be able to give you guys the exact feel of the scenic beauty to the fullest. But I have tried my best to capture the best of the frames in my camera.


Plan was to start riding from Spangmik – Mann - Merak – Nyoma – Loma – Earath- Hanle. We were supposed to get our first army check post at Merak, From here entire territory is restricted by the Army personnels and travellers are only allowed to pass with proper permits(which can be acquired from DC office in Leh)Approximately 100 Km ride from Spangmik to Merak was like riding in heaven, Though the roads were worse than road to hell . ON our right side we has huge snow-capped mountains and on the left side we had Serene Blue water Pangong Lake. Experience was spectacular





Amazing view of the Serene Pangong Lake



View from our Tents

There was no point wasting time sitting in the tents waiting for them, so me and Doc decided to ride ahead towards the army check post thinking if they have passed ahead they might keep our permits there. We finally made a strong decision to skip marsmik La.
The morning at Tso Pangong is spectacular. Pictures might not be able to give you guys the exact feel of the scenic beauty to the fullest. But I have tried my best to capture the best of the frames in my camera.


Plan was to start riding from Spangmik – Mann - Merak – Nyoma – Loma – Earath- Hanle. We were supposed to get our first army check post at Merak, From here entire territory is restricted by the Army personnels and travellers are only allowed to pass with proper permits (which can be acquired from DC office in Leh)Approximately 100 Km ride from Spangmik to Merak was like riding in heaven, Though the roads were worse than road to hell . ON our right side we has huge snow-capped mountains and on the left side we had Serene Blue water Pangong Lake. Experience was spectacular.


























We were crossing serene landscapes on both sides of the dusted road and all we find was one army vehicle within the entire 70km circuit till the checkpost. Finally we reached the check post and hell broke over. We are being told that we will have to head back as we dont have the permits in hand. We told the guy that our friends will be coming for us and we will wait at the checkpost for them. Almost an hour passed at the checkpost.


Point from where Pangong Lake turns into Tibet.


The Military person stationed at the checkpost was pretty generous and made us tea while we waiting in his tent parking our bikes out with this spectacular view.







After a brief discussion with doc and waiting for some 2 hours, we decided to talk to the officer and see if he will let us pass. After good amount and negotiations and marketing techniques, He was ready to pass us ahead but with a 500 Gandhi and with no guarantee that we might get passed the next army post in chushul.. We said heck we will see that later. And started riding ahead..
Road was no better, loose gravel and muddy roads. Soon lake turned left into tibet and we had to take a right as instructed by the army personnel. It was complete NOmans Land with no sight of a human being for long long miles.. Somehow barren land and offroading was taking a toll on us and we were getting dehydrated . Best part was we were not carrying any water bottles with us,hence had to continue riding. I think we managed to reach chushul after 4 hours of off roading and got into a monastery to ask for direction. Where we were served tea and after knowing what we have been doing for last 4 hours food as well. I Must admit ladakhi people are super generous and helpful.



Beautiful Ladaki kids at chushul


We reached the next check post which was guarded by Longewala command from Punjab. We told them that we are part of the same group of 4 bulleteers which passed 2 hours ago from this post towards Hanle (this was the info given by army personal at the first check post and also gave the riders names to us) we did use names for reference which and army guy verified from the permit copy the earlier guys had submitted to them. But they said we will not be allowed coz our names are not part of that permit. We requested him a lot, due to which he also called the head of the post to seek approval without permit, but were directly denied as RED Route.

When asked more about it we were told there was some terrorist activity happening near chushul, hence this entire route is termed as RED Route and no civilians are allowed to cross through it. Earlier group of bikes had one army personnel within them hence they were allowed ahead.








To our utter dissatisfaction we were asked to head back. But it was impossible to take the same route stay at pangong for the night and then head to Durbuk. Hence we asked for another route and we were asked to take Chushul- Earath- Tansgte route.. Completing the entry formalities we were on the new road heading back. Total journey was supposed to be for 130 Km, It was super amazing newly laid tarmac for initial 50 Kms and post which there was complete off roading.






At 8.30 in the evening we managed to reach tansgte and were told they don’t have any stay options and will have to ride towards Durbuk which was another 10 Kms ride on a tarmac. Somehow weather was showing its colours and we started feeling cold breeze in the air.









Settled in a homestay with proper food in the night in Durbuk, with plans to head ok Leh Manali highway the next morning.

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Amazing view of the Serene Pangong Lake















We were crossing serene landscapes on both sides of the dusted road and all we find was one army vehicle within the entire 70km circuit till the checkpost. Finally we reached the check post and hell broke over. We are being told that we will have to head back as we dont have the permits in hand. We told the guy that our friends will be coming for us and we will wait at the checkpost for them. Almost an hour passed at the checkpost.


Point from where Pangong Lake turns into Tibet.


The Military person stationed at the checkpost was pretty generous and made us tea while we waiting in his tent parking our bikes out with this spectacular view.







After a brief discussion with doc and waiting for some 2 hours, we decided to talk to the officer and see if he will let us pass. After good amount and negotiations and marketing techniques, He was ready to pass us ahead but with a 500 Gandhi and with no guarantee that we might get passed the next army post in chushul.. We said heck we will see that later. And started riding ahead..
Road was no better, loose gravel and muddy roads. Soon lake turned left into tibet and we had to take a right as instructed by the army personnel. It was complete NOmans Land with no sight of a human being for long long miles.. Somehow barren land and offroading was taking a toll on us and we were getting dehydrated . Best part was we were not carrying any water bottles with us,hence had to continue riding. I think we managed to reach chushul after 4 hours of off roading and got into a monastery to ask for direction. Where we were served tea and after knowing what we have been doing for last 4 hours food as well. I Must admit ladakhi people are super generous and helpful.



Beautiful Ladaki kids at chushul


We reached the next check post which was guarded by Longewala command from Punjab. We told them that we are part of the same group of 4 bulleteers which passed 2 hours ago from this post towards Hanle (this was the info given by army personal at the first check post and also gave the riders names to us) we did use names for reference which and army guy verified from the permit copy the earlier guys had submitted to them. But they said we will not be allowed coz our names are not part of that permit. We requested him a lot, due to which he also called the head of the post to seek approval without permit, but were directly denied as RED Route.

When asked more about it we were told there was some terrorist activity happening near chushul, hence this entire route is termed as RED Route and no civilians are allowed to cross through it. Earlier group of bikes had one army personnel within them hence they were allowed ahead.








To our utter dissatisfaction we were asked to head back. But it was impossible to take the same route stay at pangong for the night and then head to Durbuk. Hence we asked for another route and we were asked to take Chushul- Earath- Tansgte route.. Completing the entry formalities we were on the new road heading back. Total journey was supposed to be for 130 Km, It was super amazing newly laid tarmac for initial 50 Kms and post which there was complete off roading.











Settled in a homestay with proper food in the night in Durbuk, with plans to head ok Leh Manali highway the next morning.

Re: Ladakh '14- Dreams to reality on R15

After halting for the night at Rumste, we were able to call all near and dear one's with the only STD phone in the village which had a total of 6 houses, all of them being Homestay's. Called up the rest of the riders who we were not able to meet up at pangong and got to know they had to move back to manali and are at Pang for the night . We were told it was a good option to stay at rumste due to high temp drop last night at pang and some out the guys had to survive the night with the use of oxygen cans.


With some heavy maggie and tea we started our day ahead.

We were munching miles as the road was super smooth and with almost negligible traffic. Only problem I faced was cold, inspite of wearing 2 layers within the thermal liner of riding jacket. Breathtaking vistas in the vicinity were explored after every blind turn and all I could say was WOW


Soon we started the ascend of Tanglang La, like all other mountain passes we did face some gravel and slush as it was raining some time back. Post the initial 5-10 Km of bad patch we were back on the butter smooth roads.

Though cold was taking complete toll on the health and breathing issues. Inspite of having diamox's while leaving in the morning. But when one has zeal to explore, these would be pretty minute issues.
Soon cutting with winds and at altitudes above 10000 Feet we were standing at the 2nd highest pass in the world and thats the Tanglang la... The view was super amazing and i dont think pictures will do complete justice to the view that I was having live there.

Post some selfie's and ready made food packets, we were back on the road.

Plan was to cross baralacha today and halt at the base of Rohtang.
Roads turned from bad to worst after smooth Taglang La Descend.

Pang Army base was our plan for lunch break. but fate had some other plans. Iron bridge made out over the river at pang was broken and locals were trying to let the bikers pass with some iron sheet on stones in water and it was imperative to cross or else we would be stranded there for the night. Due to this mess the canteens and small shops were passed behind.

Looking at the views and vista's all i could think of was the blogs and articles i had read before i started my ride. I was riding at the Gata Loops. Though it was in very bad shape with almost no Tarmac.


Doc and me both experienced good amount of off roading for the rest of the day and were super tired, buy the time we reached Sarchu. After conversation with some travelers from the opposite side. we were suggested to call it a day at sarchu and start ride tomorrow morning. Some huge water crossings are generated on the way and would be difficult to cross over by the bike.


It was 5.30 at sarchu and without further adieu we called it a day.

Re: Ladakh '14- Dreams to reality on R15

Thanks for sharing a plethora of amazing pictures!

Re: Ladakh '14- Dreams to reality on R15

Thanks [MENTION=57323]krishna77[/MENTION] .. glad you liked the pictures...

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Thanks [MENTION=57323]krishna77[/MENTION] .. glad you liked the pictures...

Re: Ladakh '14- Dreams to reality on R15

Thank you for the amazing pictures. i have one doubt, is that a v1 exhaust on the r15? i see some weld marks, did you weld the muffler part of v1 onto v2's exhaust pipe? what was the reason for that? just for looks or does it give more sound or something?

thanks