Re: 15 year old Itch, Scratched

Amazing, superb, wow pictures, now we are waiting for more...

Notice the Wire Rope on the right side. People cross the cliffs though that currently.










































Mr.Photogenic of the Ride
Saviour Couple of Batal

Snowbound







































The ride from Batal to Koksar is a motorcycle enthusiast dream( or even Disaster). One has to literally cross flowing rivers. This was the toughest stretch of the ride so far. As we get to Gramphoo, we were fortunate enough to see some traffic. As there had road widening taking place, traffic was stopped on both sides for about 3 hours or so. Also the bridge at Koksar had been damaged due to over tonnage trucks plying on them. So that made matters even worse. Once we entered Koksar, we were reunited with something that had been absolutely absent for few days now, Asphalt. Suddenly everything seemed like an expressway. Halting for the day at Keylong after the tank up at Tandi marked the end of the Spiti Chapter of the ride.




More Pics and Details will be added sooon...............................

Re: 15 year old Itch, Scratched

Ladakh Ramble


13th of September had a surprise in store for us. We get up early, gear up soon and get ready to saddle up the bike, only to realize that the shocker on Arnab’s bike taken a beating and leaking oil. Not a good start for the Day and also for the Leh Leg of our journey.











So started to search for options to get it fixed, as the closest KTM showroom/service center was a good 170kms away in Bhuntur and next closest being 230kms away in Mandi. So tried calling people to ask if their friends or themselves are most likely to be coming towards Leh, to carry a shocker from their city. Fortunately the showroom in Mandi had one shocker in stock which meant wasting 2 days of the ride to get the bike fixed. Got in touch with Highway Emergency Response Team Chief HVK Sir, to know if anybody is heading via Mandi towards Keylong. In little less than 5 mins he calls back to say that one vehicle will be passing Mandi in about 2-3 hours time. Few calls were exchanged for logistical support to bring back the bike back to life. Fortunately both the showrooms in Mandi and Bhuntur were owned by the same person, Mr.Rahul Solanki . So he told he can get the shocker to Bhuntur itself by evening. So the think tank in the both of us analyzed that instead of sitting idle the whole day till the shocker arrives and then getting it fixed by a relatively less knowledgeable mech in the vicinity we thought lets get to bhuntur and have fixed properly at the service station itself, with lesser margin of humar error. So we now had to take the Rohtang Pass which meant we had to deal with the traffic jam at Koksar twice, but had no other options. The adventure quotient of the ride was already surpassing our expectations.


So request Adi and Sudhakar to start their journey towards Leh, promising them to catch up there in a day or two. The bridge work at Koksar again played a spoilsport but this time the waiting time was lesser than the time you take to have a McD order delivered across the table. Rains, Slush, snow, fog, low visibility : was loving every bit of it, unlike my partner who was having a hard time with the suspension. Just before Rohtang top Zma develops a float stuck problem. Spend some time out to figure outif that was the only problem or anything else. And the location at which it got stuck had one of the best views I had in the entire stretch.











At Marhi









Arnab rushed to Bhuntur as fast as he could to reach before the showroom closes, only to realize that the owner was still on his way. Got the bike fixed at 11.30 in the night, FINALLY. The ride was ON. On return we happened to crash into RIDE INN(Rideinn.in), as suggested by many who have been there. Had parathas till we burped so loud that it echoed in the mountains.














How to make use of your worn out clutch plates






The playful Luca






The dining area



Why you Ride ??? Answered


















Rohtang Top






Head back to Keylong, pack our stuffs and head out by the first light. Had the opportunity to catch up with Shane, who was though his RTW and was in India. A dinner with him and sharing few stories, we happened to catch up with one more couple who were on their drive from Italy to Varanasi. The kind of people we were meeting through this journey just got getting better and better.


At a snails pace we got ready and started a new part of journey which we had been dreaming all this while. We happened to cross a series of high altitude passes: Baralacha La, Nakee La and lachung La before we eventually reach Pang for the stay. All the images see though the countless travelogues kept on getting checked with every mile we passed by. Everything looked so familiar and better in real than in Pics. The blue sky was getting me on a high by now, for the good. Got a good cozy accommodation for a throw away price, along with 3 layers of fleece with hospitable people.


Zma, Someday grow up to be a DR please












Deepak Taal















Baralacha La





















Home Run


















The mighty Hilux



The route taken by the couple from Italy to India






Selfie at Bharathpur



Sarchu




































Gata Loops





































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To be continued ..........

Re: 15 year old Itch, Scratched

Lovely pictures.

And I love to hear that

Re: 15 year old Itch, Scratched

Thanks buddy will try to complete the log asap.

........... P.S:Had to make an extra post as the max number of images in a single post is 100

Completing your daily chores in Pang, is an art in itself. Those who have been to Pang might relate to this . One guy who had stayed with us started shouting from the restrooms, reason: the water in there had partly frozen overnight and he had forgotten his roll of tissues. So what happened next is left to your imagination





Our Hosts


















The temperature had gone below zero and the dry cold continued through the day. Reluctantly we started the ride coming out of the comfort zone of multi layered fleece. Now that the entire stretch of Moore plains is being resurfaced, hats off to the ground team working in those inhospitable conditions where breathing efficiently itself is a task on its own.


At Debring






Took a break at Debring to warm ourselves up with a cup of hot tea. Debring has a army outpost and emergency medical help available, also only 1 shack which can offer a bed if you are too late and tired at night. Since road laying work is underway , one has to get off the road for some distance. Also a route towards Tso Kar and Tso Moriri.


Things started getting too windy and cold, and it just intensified with the every turn we took climbing Tanglang La. Things started get a bit uncomfortable on top so the descend down to Rumtse was the only option to marginally improve the condition. As we head further and further towards Leh, things start getting organized, or rather must say civilized. With a quick identification check at Upshi, we head to Leh. With all these years of planning to ride here, I was overwhelmed with the proceeding while Arnab over the intercom had a conflict of interest to fill fuel in Karu or at leh directly


























Shortly after Rumtse


















The magnificent Stakna



Thiskey Monastery












We catch up with Adi and Sud only to realize that they haven’t been anywhere inspite of reaching Leh 2 days before we did. Head to the DC office for permits, and in under 20 minutes we had permits for all the places we had in store. Unfortunately Shane had to wait for an extra day or two, since they had some issues with giving permits to a Foreign individual and a non Indian Bike.


The Permits



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To be continued ..........

Re: 15 year old Itch, Scratched

Really superb captures sir. Waiting for more!

Re: 15 year old Itch, Scratched

Sadly we had to take leave of Shane to continue towards Diskit and Hunder the next day. Late at night just before going to bed I explain the routes that we gonna take and he keeps nodding his head. Then politely asks what is the total distance, I reply around 850-900kms, with the eyeball popping out, he asks “ How many petrol bunks in between? “ With a smile and “None” being answered I quickly act to have slept, the room lights were for about an hour and a half with Arnab doing some calculations on where all we can source fuel My hatred with touring on a D390 escalates to a different level. He had somehow managed to squeeze in some 15 ltrs of fuel in the tail bag the next morning.


L-R: Sud, Shane, Arnab,Adi and Myself






On a closer look



The infiltration of Chinese inside the Indian border, shattered our plans on most places we had planned. Though we had all the permits, we were very doubtful of access to Hanle, Marismik La and other places which shares a close border with China. Crossing Khardung la, we realized that Tanglang la was much tougher though it had snowed in Ktop the previous day. Probably I had set more expectations from Khardung La. Let me be frank, the Leh chapter had started to bore me. Spiti was still singing a better song at the back of my mind, like those first crush memories decade later. Once we reach North Pullu, Arnab pulls by the side of the road as soon as he see a “Bangla Dhaba “ Board, but to his bad luck a packet of chips, a cup of tea and a plate of Maggie was the best what he could manage with, nothing more.




















Flying High Atop Khardung La
























With a little hope of finding some adventure, we head to Diskit and Hunder, Again our bad luck shows its evil face, roads to turtuk gets closed because of some land slides. When entering DISKIT monastery, heard a voice in Kannada, was wondering since when did Arnab start speaking in proper Kannada. It was apparently the monk at the entrance, after seeing the KA regd plates on the bikes. Came to know that he was educated at Namdroling Monastery in Madikeri. That feel you get when you are few thousand miles away from home and somebody speaks to you in your native language, in the least expected place, PRICELESS. The good thing about all these monasteries is that they are all located at strategic locations, perched on the top of a hill. The vistas they offer is mind blowing. The most important thing we liked after visiting so many monasteries so far is the SILENCE which translated to Peace of Mind. Diskit Gompa is the largest and oldest buddist monastery in the whole of Nubra valley. Apart from the architectural genius that the Diskit Monastery is the statue of Maitreya, the future Buddha. As the sun starts going down behind the monastery slowly we could see the rays of the sun illuminating the statue with splendid colors.


Climbing Diskit









The Statue of Maitreya(Future Buddha)









Diskit Monastery



As we proceed further ahead of Nubra valley we reach an army settlement at Hunder. A big board which said, Dosa and Idly available welcomed us. We happened to meet a gentleman from the armed forces who was from Karnataka, was very happy to speak to someone from his homeland. Not just here, Armed personnel wherever we went so far offer you the hospitality that most of the so called luxury hotels put them to shame. A quick walk around the dunes , we enquire about a place to crash for the day, most of them seemed to be out of our budget, so we decide to head to Sumur. In the meantime it gets completely dark and spooky to ride around, from Diskit to Sumur we were the only ones on the road, no vehicles on either side.











The Dunes at Hunder



Thoughts of Change in Profession












We happened to stop at the prayer bell at the entrance of Sumur town, where we were welcomed by a group of young men who were very helpful in sourcing our dinner in a candle lit shack (which was the only source of food at that time) and a good place to crash for the night at a throw away price. The house had a beautiful garden and an even better interior design to go with. The kind of people we were meeting through the ride, mainly locals are so self-sustaining and humble. Whatever you ask them they reply back with a smile.


Sumur is yet another pretty villages in the lap of Himalayas, which houses the famous Samstem Ling Gompa. Its more of a stop over for people inclined towards the spiritual attainment at Gompa or for backpackers , as you can find a few good, basic accommodation at a very affordable price.








Charcoal painting done by our care taker at the homestay



Samstem Ling Gompa



The checkpost at Harlam






View from Panamik Hot springs






After a filling breakfast, we start for Panamik and see how far we can go towards the last point where we will stopped by someone. Harlam, few kms aheade of Panamik was the last we could manage to go. A cup of tea at the hot springs at Panamik and we were off to Agham hoping that the Agham Shyok stretch is doable, irrespective of difficulty level, but unfortunately we were left disappointed and instead we were made to ride through Wari La, which was a better option we bartered for. This is what I was expecting from Leh, open skies, snowcapped mountains, green patches at few places, yaks grazing, the sound of the stream providing the perfect background score.


Dunes at Sumur



Phoser Times









Following Shyok















We reach the top of Wari La, what immediately was a trail of pug marks which most likely looked like a snow leopard from a distance. I was over excited, had it been a snow leopard sighting happened that day, it would have completed my tally of seeing all the big cats in India, but unfortunately we could only see the paw prints. That sent our sense hyper active, stood there for few minutes looking for the big cat, but we were unlucky


Big Boys


















Three cheers to Sakthi/Serthi



Landscape while descending down Wari la



We descend down with that missed chance in mind, hoping for better tablets of experiences. Once we are at Sakthi, we happen to meet the Trio: Ananth, MG n Karthik, who were in their attempt to complete maximum number of High altitude passes in one single ride. Some laughter exchanged and we head back to Leh.


A small GTG

Re: 15 year old Itch, Scratched

Splendid pictures...

Re: 15 year old Itch, Scratched

Absolutely brilliant!

Re: 15 year old Itch, Scratched

Thank you Guys

Re: 15 year old Itch, Scratched

Superb.But I could not see some of the photos.

Re: 15 year old Itch, Scratched

Thank You All the Pics are posted from the same host. Request you to kindly recheck as im able to see all the Pics.

Re: 15 year old Itch, Scratched

We started our ride towards Pangong with a strong hope that we would be able to get permissions for Marisik La, Tsaga and Hanle as the infiltration issue had become worse. Again, road widening working caused considerable delay in our passage to Pangong. Wanted to get out of the touristy circuit as early as possible. The weather was just about perfect to ride. The closer we were getting to Pangong the excitement increased multi folds, got to meet some familiar faces enroute and also made some new ones. Upon discussing with the army officers whom we met, came to know that access to Marismik La, Tsaga La, Hanle and Chumur were out of bounds for security concerns.


Shanti Stupa At night


















Wild Horses









Himalayan Marmot







































We reach Merak by evening and start our search for an economical stay by the lake. While we were halfway through the conversation, one Xylo cab passes by, we signal him to stop. He thought we were asking him for a lift and passed us signaling a No, and said, the vehicle is booked and we need to search for another cab. We catch hold of him and explain that we were in search of accommodation. So he obliged to take us to the homestay where he had dropped his guests, if any space available, we could manage. Sounded like a good deal. And then when we got our bikes, seeing the registration plates he asked “Elli Bangalore ah ?(Are you from Bangalore) “ Taken aback by his question we correspond. It so happens that he too happens to have educated from Namdroling and has a decent command over Kannada. Also went on too say that he, along with few friends of his, used to ride down to Bidadi on alternate weekends for the crave of “Thatte Idly”. He took the initiative to convince the homestay guy to provide us some space to crash, 250 bucks including dinner and breakfast with 2-3 cups of tea, sounded like a steal. Over the campfire with other guests in the homestay, we happen to speak to guys who have been backpacking across continents. Humbless personified, these guys were. Sorry to say this, you tend to hate our own people who get foreigners and new comers to Pangong to loot them whole. The most prominent guys are the ones who get people on organized motorcycle tours. They just don’t let their clients to speak to others, so that they might actually get an idea how much are they taken a ride for. And accidently if you happen to speak to one of those guys, even if it’s the other guy starting the conversation, this organizer guy gives a look at as if you asked for his Kidneys. This is what an outburst in tourism might result in. Across the campfire, with few backpackers, we happen to continue a longer conversation with one couple in particular Stephanie and her boyfriend.
































The homestay had a pretty neatly maintained kitchen which doubled up as a dining hall. On the TV, Mahabharat was being aired, Stephanie was explaining the story to her boyfriend in a way that the most of my teachers would have taught me in school. Out of curiosity we ask her how does she know all these? She clarifies saying that she had worked with United Nations(U.N) for Women and Child welfare in Pondicherry for about an year and continues to say that she was missing the “Meenu Kolambu(fish curry in Tamil)” she used to get every day from her collegues. The moment she uttered menu kolambu , in an accent that would put a tamilian to shame, my eyes popped out. The conversations continue till late at night where we exchanged our individual travel stories. Also get to know that there is some protest happening in Leh city from 6AM to 6PM, and entry/ exit to the city was not possible. Reason for the protest: Last year, an Adventure tour company had taken about 1000 people for Chadhar trek and destroyed the ecosystem beyond repair. The DC had give permission for a similar trek this year too which made the locals furious, as tourism is one of the prime occupation around.


After effects of Bandh at Leh.



After waiting for the barricades to be released, we rush to the Choglamsar fuel bunk to tank up as we had to start early for Tso Moriri, the next day. It was an emotional farewell too for Arnab, who happened to start the return journey home after Tso Moriri after riding together for 16 days. We start the ride through Upshi and Chumathang, quite the kind of route I like. We pass through few army bases, at Kiari and Chumathang. The change in color of soil is co vibrant. Once you cross Sumdo, it’s like this huge playground to do whatever you want, numerous trails you can take to get to get to Korzok. Few army trucks pass by giving that “Jaa beta, jitna marzi utna khel le “


Ride a D390, Like a BOSS



Just before you reach the ITBP check post before Korzok, on the left goes a brilliant black top stretch, on the other side of Tso Moriri where you can find the first check post maintained by the Bihari regiment( that’s what we were told) . Unfortunately this road was not yet opened for Public and also the Chinese border tension was close by at Demchok and Chumur which is on the same stretch. We get back to the ITBP check post, to enter our credentials, after seeing the D390, the guard asks about the bike make, cost and other details, finally asks” kaahe itna paisa barbaad kiya, khet mein jaayega ye gaadi ?” in a typical UP/Bihari accent which made Arnab furious. The guard also asks if anybody else is coming on this stretch. Since we hadn’t seen anybody, we confirm negative.


Enroute tso Moriri



At Tso Kiagar


















At Korzok






Err.... what homestay please







Once we get to the town of Korzok and freshen up after finding a good enough place, we saw a convoy of vehicles from Delhi university coming inside the small village. In about 10-15mins all the rooms in Korzok were booked. And Choice of food became even more limited. Personally felt Tso moriri was a better place than Pangong to spend time in solitude. Not tourist sticken like Pangong.





Now i know what they mean when they say "Fully Loaded"



We happened to bump into this old gentleman whom we had met in Keylong, again in Sumdo. He was a well versed traveller who had kept himself updated on most travel blogs, so much that he could tell which guy on which forum had gone where all. Got to know that he had been travelling with his two Sons( most likely) across the Himalayas. He had our RESPECT. We didn’t even know if we would be alive at that age. The voice on the intercom started to be become faint. From here, for the rest of the journey, I was alone. Happiness on one side, deserted on the other.




Come back to Mahe check post, request the guy to let me do the Loma-Hanle stretch for which he straight away denied. Disappointed start towards to frame a different plan. Like they say, “Good Friends don’t let you do crazy things, Alone” happened to meet the trio of Ananth, MG and Karthik just outside of Chumathang army base. A sheer coincidence. It was uttermost disappointment that they were able to do all the place which we were denied, just because they were just 2 days ahead than our schedule.


Some distance before Mahe



On a bridge which was supposed to fall anytime






Poser value : Infinite






Ride with them back to Leh, only to say one last good bye to the heavenly place, and start from another. Stay at Kargil was arranged by Karthik, with the help of his friends and senior at Sainik school. Totally impressed with the stay I must say.











Confluence of Indus and Zanskar









The Pied Piper






When we diverted towards FanjiLa






Lamayaru















Pursuit of Happiness



Next on the radar was Hamboting La, apart from the one direction board we saw near kargil, there was no signs of it anywhere else. Few equerries made here and there but nobody was sure of the route. So we thought, we will take one of the routes which the locals “Guessed” and see where it leads. I am so glad we did that.
Hunderman is supposedly the last place where militants were shot dead during the Kargil war in 1999. The entire town looks decimated as a result. If one looks on top of those gigantic cliffs, we can see small army bunkers perched on top. We take out our cams and in about 10 mins of so we hear few shots fired. Completely isolated place, only the four of us gun shots, felt like Die Hard shooting taking place. Instincts told us to have the closest possible cover and we then we did. Then curiosity told us to take few steps out of the cover and see what it was actually. The moment we stepped out of cover we hear gun shots being fired again. We panic and made sure we get to the other side of the mountain in order to go out of sight, and the moment we did that the gun became silent. Those few moments made us realize that it could be the last trip of ours. What made it even scarier was the fact that most of the boards that we up read “Do not Step out of the road, there are lots of mines”. What startled us that, why the hell didn’t they put these in a way that it’s visible for people climbing up, so that we can be careful enough. After that we had a laugh when we realized that MG was alive since he was climbing some small rock areas to get a good Pic unknowing of the dangers. Upon reaching the first village we stop at a shop to hydrate ourselves. We explain our state to the gentleman at the shop and the first question he asked “did u hear the sound from left or right” we were like “who the hell cares when its gun shots”. He continues to explain that if the firing was from the left side, it would be the Army during their mock drill, if it’s from the right could be militants. Somehow the firing sound only when we were visible didn’t suit the mock drill theory. Nevertheless, we were alive and adrenaline pumped up, we continue to march towards our search for Hamboting la, which happened to be on the way to Batalik.




















Karthik and myself opted to continue the ride to Rhehru and Padum from Kargil, while Ananth and MG opted to take it slow and complete Penzi La. Though Zanskar was not in the initial plan, we did to cope with the time we saved due to Chinese intervention. And this made us realize……. Leh ..... is mehhh… in front of Zanskar .






To be continued……………………..

Re: 15 year old Itch, Scratched

Wow, wow, wow. But only few pictures of TSO Moriri

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What riding pant you guys are wearing? Can you remind me at what time of the year you guys did this and what was the temperature in day/night and weather conditions?

Re: 15 year old Itch, Scratched

Pardon me. Will add more pics when i have access to my laptop .

I was using a Spartan odysseus. The ride was in september. The temperatures ranged from near negetive to late 30's rode. The pants are very comfortable. The pants seem to be very hot inside because it has very limited vents , but they do the job brilliantly. My only regret was not having a tall fit.