Re: Tales of Spiti and Schwinn

Travelogue Approved

Now waiting for the actual journey to begin

Day-1 : Shimla- Kufri

Re: Tales of Spiti and Schwinn

Wow man really proud of you. I've done a few self supported tours myself but never to these parts of the world. It remained a dream! now after marriage it's very tough to go solo bicycle tour :P

Day-2 : Kufri- Bahli - first adernaline rush, first apple tree, first dog chase

Thanks Kaushik.

Day-2 : Kufri-Narkanda-Baghi-Sungri-Bahli
Distance : 104km

( Point mouse on pictures for captions)

I woke up with some positive energy and refreshing thoughts. The mountains might have filled it in me. I managed to start at 7am as planned. I initially thought to avoid coffee and tea during the whole trip. Due to the cool climate, I felt like having one. Himalayan tea has some magic in it. It worked as an instant booster for me through out. Here I had the opportunity to give my first interview to the tea shop owner, who enquired about my where abouts. I felt happy after the first ALL THE BEST, I received from a stranger in the trip.

Later it turned to be annoying answering the same questions again and again. Kaha se aa rahe ho ? Kaha jaa rahe ho ? Akele ? Manali tak ?Kaza se hokar ..woh bahut uncha hai,chadna mushkil hai!!!!!!

The ride began with an exciting downhill. The gloves I brought the previous evening came as great help in preventing my hands from going numb. At Matiana, I had breakfast and headed to Theog. I used to walk at entrance of the every village/town I came across. I felt that analogous to a cow boy in Wild West, entering village on a horse for water. The village landscapes and setting also made me feel more like that. It became hard for me to control myself from comparing to Clint Eastwood in such situations. The hat being replaced with Helmet and Horse with my bicycle





In Matiana, I got glimpse of first apple orchards. They were covered with nets everywhere. Seeing an apple tree is also one of my missions to be accomplished in this trip.



The person who advised me about route asked me to take rest, if I have reached any destination early. At Narkanda I was confused, if I should stay or move ahead. A cup of tea later,as light will be there for 8 more hours I decided to move ahead and ride till Baghi. The name Baghi scared me since beginning, as it sounded closer to Bhag-Tiger. I had feeling that a tiger might surely show up on the way and it will make me Bhag-away!

A kilometer later, I had to make first toughest decision of tour. I have to pick my choice between downhill to Rampur and the uphill to Baghi through jungle! Well, I have taken right and the real excitement began.






I stopped for tea in Khadrala. After the question drill, the people in tea shop narrated the glorious history of that village. How it used be a busy place while NH used to pass through that village, how the PWD rest house used be a main place of accommodation for Jawaharlal Nehru and Indira Gandhi. These people assure me that it is a constant downhill till Sungri and warned me to check my brakes












It is round 7 pm. The moon was already high up in the sky. Sun slowly began setting down. The sky turned into a beautiful stage for the magic show of colours. I witnessed the beautiful red and pinkish sky in west with orange reflections on east. All the colours with green trees around made me forget all troubles and fears I came cross during the ride today. The occasional bus heading to Rampur passing on slope of hill of opposite side added beauty to the scene.

Re: Tales of Spiti and Schwinn

Great pictures and narration mate!

Day- 3 : Bahli - Taklech - Seen it all !!!







Even here,I was offered a way to go to Rampur and I have taken another right for one more adventure. I had a quick breakfast and sent a Kg of my clothes to home through India post for decreasing the load. This caused little delay. Being aware that climb to Darangathi will be tough,I motivated myself to do that and proceeded ahead. Whomever I ask about Darangathi will point to hill top far far away, which is hardly visible and used to tell me it will take forever to reach there on a bicycle.








After climb for 7-8 Kms in hot sun, I was very tired. Refreshed myself at a Nala. Looking at my exhausted face, a person in a general store cum home asked me to sit under shade for a while. He was also owner of an apple orchard. Listening to his stories, I had a maggi there and moved ahead.










That motivated me for futher climb and I started riding. After a long climb I have finally reached the top of Daran Pass aka,Darangathi. It was completely surrounded by trees, hardly leaving any gap for light to enter. I saw the PWD guest house there surrounded by beautiful flowers. I wanted to stay there. But the greed in me has forced me to take the foulest decision in my trip.

Re: Tales of Spiti and Schwinn

Great read so far!

Sent from my Xperia L.

Day-4/13 : Rampur- Bhavanagar

Thanks Krishna

Day-4 : Rampur- Bhavanagar
Distance : 48 Km
Mostly undulating and descent


After a fateful day with lots of experiences, I woke up in despair not knowing what is in store for me. Since my intention is not giving up, I watched few videos in YouTube about tubeless tires and started pulling tire out of rear wheel (by the way, my bicycle slept beside me). To my surprise the tire came out easily and also I found a tube inside it!!! I was overjoyed by this fact. I wondered what kind of role tension played on mind yesterday. Since I was not under any stress now, I could do things easily. I was shocked to see three punctures in the tube. I fixed them and used the same tube instead of new spare tube to check my fixing capabilities. I got ready soon and with lot of enthusiasm and happiness that my trip is not cancelled, I was back on Rampur roads riding the beast.

Day 5/13 - July 1- Entering Sangla

Day-5 : Bhavanagar- Sangla
Distance : 62Km
Distance covered by bicyle : 30Km
(Took lift after Tapri to cross the landslide and few kms in landslide prone area on the way to Sangla)
Bhananagar- Tapri : 20 Km undulating
Tapri-Urni-karacham : There was a landslide between Tapri and karcham so there is an additional 24 Km with 12 km uphill instead of 9km direct distance. I have taken vehicle between this stretch.
Karacham- Sangla : 18 km gradual ascent. (I have taken ride for 8 km in landslide prone area before Jaypee dam )




It was little tough to climb three floors with bicycle. After breakfast I started riding towards Tapri . Due to the hydro electric project, the roads were completely muddy. A lot of slush was struck in my tires by the time I reached Tapri,. I also came to know that there is a landslide ahead and one has to take extra 24 kms with 12 km uphill through Urni, instead of existing 9km route to Karacham. Being eager to reach Sangla for having a closer look at mountains, I have asked a passenger vehicle heading to Recong Peo to drop me in Karacham. He agreed for 350, though he hesitated initially. Cyclists get these kinds of favours from people. Throughout the way, I could see the snow capped peaks luring me.

















I met a boy in Vehicle, who is on his way to attend a marriage in one of the villages on other side of Baspa. I asked his Kinnauri topi once and tried it.






At Karacham, I first encoutered a group of bulleteers. While I'm climbing on a single digit speed, they headed ahead on double digit speeds. Most of them waved at me. This uphill ride was not much strenuous owing to the beautiful views of mountains.




A mahindra yut driver stopped me 10 km ahead of Sangla. He asked me not to ride till the project area as it is completely landslide prone. I hesitated, but he requested again! I agreed and he himself put the bicycle back of Yut. On the way he narrated the tales about other tourists, his village, driving conditions. This time I did make sure to take his number.

The last 4 km climb from dam to Sangla is easy. Here a group of workers stopped me, offered a cup of tea and asked many questions about bicycle, my ride etc. Since I was very happy with the scenery around I answered them patiently and went ahead.






I easily got a room in Sangla. After getting refreshed, I tried Thupka for first time. I then walked around. I saw a building under construction and asked its owner if can come upstairs for looking at scenery. He welcomed me cheerfully. From this building Kinnaur Kailash peak is visible clearly. He told lot of tales about the place. The pandavas story, how other small villages were separated from Sangla, the kind of crops grown there and apple business etc.









After he left, I sat there peacefully staring at the mountains far away in Chitkul. I imagined how Chitkul might be. All the while Kinnaur Kailash disappointed me by hiding in the clouds. Even the in the east, sun was hidden under clouds ruining my chance to view sunset. I was only happy for being surrounded by snow capped peaks on all sides. I was lost for a while admiring the beauty around me. As it started getting colder I had to start moving back to room. I have decided to give a visit in September or October next year.


Though Sun disappointed me, moon did not. I got to witness beautiful view of moon. After being refreshed with that, I had dinner and headed back . I had to watch my each step as there is a dog every corner! Pheww!!

Re: Tales of Spiti and Schwinn

Beautifully narrated friend!

Day-6 :02-July : Sangla-Chitkul-Sangla-Powari- Recong peo

Thanks Krishna

Day-6 :02 July: Sangla-Chitkul-Sangla-Powari- Recong peo
Total Distance : 86Km
Distance covered by bicyle : 71 Km
Sangla- Chitkul -Sangla: 22 km + 22 km gradual ascent to Chitkul.
Sangla- Karacham : 18 Km Descent.
Karacham- Powari : 11km ,mostly undualting.
Powari- recong Peo : 13Km with 6km uphill (Took ride)


I'm very excited today as I will be riding without luggage for first time in whole trip.I started heading for Chitkul .The climb was very tough initially, even without luggage.Yesterday, I met a person in vehicle that dropped me till Karacham . I saw him again walking there . We started a conversation. He was a school teacher in Rakcham. He will walk 12 km's everyday in morning to reach School from Sangla ,to enjoy the nature and also as an exercise. Our speeds were nearly same. Even through I pedalled little fatser and went ahead, he used to reach there when I stopped there after being exhausted. We spoke about his daily routine, climate . I liked this man particularly. I felt how blessed he is to walk peacefully in the beautiful Meadows everyday.












I had breakfast in Rakcham. It was little easy from here. I moved ahead enjoying amazing views nature is providing. Each turn offered some unique view. The wooden houses built in Rackham, for living in winter are nearly empty. They were very beautiful. One can even see the stables built for cattle separatley. The view of fields fo potato, green peas with Baspa flowing beside them will just mesmerize anyone .Especially the the stone boundaries they have set for the fields are very artistic




I reached Chitkul around lucnh time. My legs hesitated to roam around and it also started drizzling a little there. So I headed back to Sangla. Before I have started, I saw the bullet group once again and spoke with an Australian in the group.











In Sangla, I vacated the hotel hotel and headed for Recong peo as I've heard that roads are flat till powari. That 107 km ride on second day has planted some overconfidence in me. I thought I would reach Peo before it gets dark. Another mistake I have done.







Even this little one chased me,while climbing down !




I got down from Sangla and this is also one more steep downhill ride causing adrenaline rush. I bid farewell to beautiful valley ,Baspa and went ahead.

Due to the project works, the road is in very worst condition . It was terrible to ride in between heavy machinery . The board " shooting stones " will definitely cause a fear . I slowly went ahead till powari . Light is slowly fading away and its 13 more to go with 6 km uphill. Now the mind gave up to go ahead further .

A group of people working in Hydro electric project gave me lift. They called me angrez for heading out with a bicycle and warned me against riding further ,telling about the rolling stones,blasts ,landslides. At that point all I needed is a place to settle for the day and this talk didn't go into my mind much.

After they dopped me at Recong peo bus stand and went home. I got a accommodation and came out for dinner.

I went on to the terrace of hotel and saw the beautiful peaks in moon light. I saw Auriga and capella once again after 3 days. I didn't want to move inside the building from the starry sky there, but I had to as temperature is getting down.

After the food, I brought some dry fruits ,fruits and chocolates. Then went back to my accommodation. Went onto terrace to see the peaks in moon light once again and came down to sleep.

I decided against going to Kalpa worrying about the fixed time and planned for heading to Pooh. I have also determined unless I'm stranded not to take vehicle again . Being, clear about next day I went to sleep easily and happily.

Day-7: 03- July- Recong peo- Pooh

Day-7: Recong peo- Pooh
Disctance : 69 Km.
The good food previous night helped me in having a good sleep. Packed all the stuff and started. When I stopped for breakfast in a Punjabi hotel, the cook cum onwer asked me to take her son along with me as he is not studying well . I couldn't understand how to take that !


Different terrains in single sight !.

I started slowly.Six days of training in the hills trained for the big rides ahead, I was comfortable on saddle and begin to enjoy the ride more. I need not push myself from here, the ride just went like a flow. In the map I carried, Recong Peo is not even half way but half of my trip days were finished !That factor also motivated me.


I desperately wanted to click this picture of road under mountain and it is one of the reason I came on this trip.


The stone blasting and rocks falling sign boards scared me initially. After crossing Powari, the signs slowly disappeared and beautiful road showed up. After entering Akpa, except being hot, I thoroughly enjoyed riding on that . It is a different scene all together. Getting closer to the mountains with some apple orchards in between, it is a wonderful location.


Getting Closer to Akpa




Controlled my self a lot,not to pick one


It is a completely different experience riding on this bridge.


A different world

I had lunch at Spillo . I forgot to mention about food all along. I had aloo parantha as breakfast almost everyday and even as lunch till Sangla. I had momo, chowmein for lunch everyday from Sangla. In dinner I used to try something different or Parantha again . In spillo a full plate of Chowmein costed 80 rs ! The price climbed up with altitude !!

The desert conditions were also started, giving me a teaser of how it is going to be ahead. In spillo the heat is nearly unbearable . I relaxed for lot of time after lunch and stared slowly.
After travelling a few kilometres when I'm 13 km's away from Pooh, I met an electrical line man,taking rest in shadow of a stone. He was bewildered and scared to see a person going to Pooh and ahead on a bicycle . He too like people yesterday scolded me and asked me to take a bus for travelling ahead. I told I will see and moved ahead.




BRO Men at work- Break time for me

From this point the landscape slowly changed and I felt I was in Colorado or Texas for most of the time. The blue sky,the river and the colour of rocks made me feel more and more that I'm in grand canyon. I'm in no way comparing the places, I was just under the influence of Clint Eastwood, Serigo Leone and Ennio Morricone.
I have read that except for last few kilometres rest of route is flat. But nope, the road climbed gradually till Pooh. Enroute I saw many BRO workers. It is both proud and pity to see them doing the most strenuous jobs. At times they were the inspiration for me to go ahead.


The last point for mobile signal


Climb to pooh

I have reached the place to start final climb for Pooh . It was the first confusing moment for me in trip with regards to route . One sign board says that Pooh is only a kilometre ahead which is a downhill. Other sign board says to take left for a 5 km climb uphill. I took left and started the climb. I was happy with my speed and technique. If it was not the last stretch of the day, it would have been a pleasant ride.

The climb started with a army check post. The dry fruits I brought yesterday helped me as instant boosters and made me go ahead. The beauty of each place is completely different from other. In this climb I had snow capped peaks on right side and I'm moving more and more away from the river. As I climbing I could see some plantations not sure apple or tea. The ride becomes more tough, when one know the destination is getting closer ! When I was completely exhausted, Pooh arrived. I didn't care to check for the PWD guest house which is located 1.5 km uphill. I have checked in the first hotel hotel I saw and got a very decent room just for Rs. 400. The view from my room is mesmerizing.


Pooh Village

After relaxing and washing few clothes, I went on walk to the village. I felt that 2-3 days are completely necessary for enjoying the flavour of that place. People are having fun playing cricket in a very narrow street, the game being disturbed by occasionally passing vehicles.


Another reason,I wanted to come to this trip.I rotated them


Reflection of sunset on eastern peaks

I couldn't view the sunset as one side is completely covered by hills. I was blessed with some orange reflection though . Also it started getting colder. It was dark by the time I came back. I had momo chowmein again for dinner and went back to room.
I enjoyed the views from the balcony of hotel for some time As I said, the view from my room is amazing. The rising moon added much beauty to the snow peaks. Marked this place as one of the long stay places in my next trip and went to sleep happily.


Next day ride

Re: Tales of Spiti and Schwinn

Some feat of endurance there, mate! cycling's a different ball game all together; and I am definitely enjoying your pictures.
Thanks for sharing your wonderful accomplishment.

Re: Tales of Spiti and Schwinn

I know you are busy doing brevet after brevet and raising your game. But share the rest of your story of Spiti as well

Waiting for the rest!