Re: From the rains of Uttarakhand to the deserts of Ladakh

Day 11 (July 16th 2015) - Diskit to Panamik to Khalsar (144Km)

Plan for the day was to again take it easy. Goal was to roam around Diskit/Hunder and then towards Panamik. Night halt would be somewhere between Panamik and Khalsar


Dust storm between Diskit and Hunder


The town of Diskit spread below the monastery


Diskit Monastery


Maitreya Buddha at Diskit Monastery


Wild flowers @Diskit
After making and outside visit of the monastery, walked around the town of Diskit taking in the morning life.


Diskit Prayer Wheel
Diskit is a small town and it did not take me long to walk around the town. Then returned back to the guesthouse and checked out by 1100.


Reflections on way towards Panamik


Road thorough the desert flats


On the desert flats


Rocky waterfall


Prayer wheel at Sumur


Shaded courtyard of a cafe in Sumur. This was a beautiful outdoor place to sit and relax under the trees. Spend almost an hour there enjoying the place and eating food.


Prayers amongst wild flowers and mountains


View from Panamik hot springs. Spend a while sitting in the hot water tub. It is unfortunate that they have spoiled the place by building a cement structure preventing people from enjoying the springs in a natural environment.


In awe of the mountains.

At this point I will take a break from pictures and mention an incident which will hopefully be useful to others in keeping them safe.
The road towards Panamik is awesome and well tarred. At places of water crossings the road takes a dip and the water crossing is paved with cement. I arrived at one such crossing. There was only about 2-3 inches of water and crossing it would have been a matter of regular affair. However in the middle, just out of reach of water stood two bikers standing next to their bikes discussing the best way to cross. From their manner they looked like engineers figuring out the right angle and velocity to cross the water. Being in no hurry, I waited half-way down the dip watching them amusingly. A minute later an army truck came from the other side and waited at the top of the crossing. For a moment everything was peaceful. The two biker stood in the middle doing what engineers do.
Suddenly the army truck started honking crazily, waving at us to get moving. For a moment the three of us stood perplexed. Then I saw it coming , since I was a little higher than the other two riders. A wall of water, rocks and slush; almost 5 ft high rushing towards us. The lethargic moment was busted. I gunned the engine, shouted come choicest abuses at the the two riders urging then to get moving and get out and raced out of the dip stopping only after I was 100ft away from the dip. Turning back I saw a raging river crossing the dip. The two riders had crossed over to the other side. The army driver was mad with rage at our foolishness and his first comment was "marne aaye ho kya yahan".
I apologized and profusely thanked him before moving on.
So folks beware of the water crossing. It is not just the water is there but what can come down the mountain.

Later in Khalsar I would find out about these flash floods and the danger they pose.


View from the bathroom window of the guesthouse where we stayed in Khalsar.

Decided to call it a day at Khalsar. Next day was for the WariLa route to Pangong.

Re: From the rains of Uttarakhand to the deserts of Ladakh

Wow! Just wow! Made my day! You have an excellent sense of photography. BTW how did the bike perform?

Re: From the rains of Uttarakhand to the deserts of Ladakh

Thanks. Glad you liked the pics.
The bike performed better than I expected.
I had the carb jet changed in Leh as precautionary measure. In hindsight I don't think I needed to do that.
I had trouble in two places:
1. While climbing up to ChangLa on return from Pangong Lake, it would not pull with two people (I had a guy whom I gave lift) and luggage. I got it checked in Karu and found the air filter choked. Got it cleaned and then it ran very well.
2. On top of TalangLa I stopped to take a pic amidst blizzard like conditions. Would not start with the auto-start after that. I guess it was due to the cold. It was freezing up there. Needed some coaxing to get it started after that.

Re: From the rains of Uttarakhand to the deserts of Ladakh

Day 12 (July 17th 2015) - Khalsar to Leh (123Km)

All evening there was confusion in Khalsar whether the Wari La route was open or not. Decided to leave early in the morning and just drive down that way; return if the route is closed. Well didn't have to go far. Just at the point where the road turned towards Agam there was a nice little board dashing hopes of making the Wari La route.


First disappointment early in the morning. So off towards Khardung La. And it did turn out to be a positive thing.

Being very early, I had ample of time and I made good use of it by stopping a lot and taking pictures. This ascent to Khardung La, I thoroughly enjoyed unlike the traffic filled commute two days ago. The first vehicle I would meet would be just before reaching the pass.


A nine shot panorama with the gradual ascent towards Khardung La


Snow covered peaks and a zig-zag river


Village of Khardung La and the river below


Another crazy river


Getting closer to the pass. As you see below, the road is just a mud track.


Snow walls just before Khardung La


Frozen dew drops


Before 0800 reached Khardung La. There were two more vehicles and 7 more people. Practically I had the pass to myself. Unfortunately the shops were also closed. So had to descend to South Pallu for my first cup of tea for the morning.


Jagged peaks at Khardung La


Leh city basking in the glory of Sunlight. Took a mental note to come back to this place later in the evening for some night pics.


Leh City Entrance

After reaching Leh, went back to the same guesthouse and relaxed for a while. After bath and freshening up, went to a mechanic to get bike chain tightened. Then hung around the market for a while and grabbed some food. By then evening had started to fall. Headed back towards the view point which overlooked the Leh City.
Some dusk and night pictures.


Leh as the evening sets in.


Night glow

By the time I was done, it was past 2000. The howling wind, blowing down the snow capped mounting, was bitterly cold making my hands numb.
Rushed towards the market and grabbed a bowl of hot soup followed by more grub. Returned back to the guest house and went to sleep, once again hoping to leave early in the morning.

Re: From the rains of Uttarakhand to the deserts of Ladakh

Day 13 (July 18th 2015) - Leh to Spangmik (Pangong Lake) (167Km)

Once again the hopes of leaving early were dashed but in a positive way. Woke up to find out that it was Id. Our hosts had prepared a lavish Id meal. Never one to shy way from good grub, decided to wait patiently till the meal was served. Having had my full, two of us left after 0900. Pangong seemed a was a long way off.


Delicious home cooked stuff.


Shey


Sun 'n shade across the Indus
The road out of Leh towards Manali is a scenic wonder going parallel to the Indus river. It is also in great condition and a pleasure to drive.


Hemis Monastery in the distance

At Karu, tanked up on fuel with a few extra liters in bottles and turned towards Pangong Lake


Takthok Monastery @ Sakti


The village of Sakti with Takthok Monastery in the backdrop


Post Sakti, the climb to Chang La started


"How green was my valley"


As the road climbed higher and higher, the contrast of the green valley below, surrounded by the barren mountains became more and more beautiful.


The "Z"


And then we got to the snow


More snow and evidence of a small avalanche


The mighty ChangLa.
The ascent wasn't that difficult but for the traffic and the last stretch which was bad. Got stuck in one place where the bike would not pull. A BRO worker had to push me.


A frozen lake on the way down.
The descent was better as traffic was less.


Stopped by a riverside tent for tea and omelet


Flowing water


The road condition improved and the descent towards Durbuk hastened.


White-Brown-Green was beautiful


Having had a lot of time, I slowed down and took it easy. I was already thinking of spending two days in the area.


A grazing meadow fed by melting waters. Saw some cattle here and there.


Another 5 photo panorama


And finally Pangong lake. The colors are mesmerizing.


A 9 shot panorama of the lake (click here for full size)


Another Panorama (Click here for full size)


Drove ahead to Spangmik and found tented accommodation near to the lake. View from outside the tent


Bird's eye view of Spangmik next to Pangong lake

The food choices in Spangmik were limited. So decided to head back to Lukung for food. Lukung was more of a tourist hotspot with several eateries.


Almost every dhabha was affiliated with "3 Idiots". The place we ate food.

Returned to the tents are a heavy meal. Sat around enjoying the evening turn into night slowly watching the lake disappear in the dark. Having nothing to do, went to sleep.

Re: From the rains of Uttarakhand to the deserts of Ladakh

Wow what scenic beauty are these.Absolutely mesmerizing

Re: From the rains of Uttarakhand to the deserts of Ladakh


Thanks buddy.

Re: From the rains of Uttarakhand to the deserts of Ladakh

Day 14 (July 19th 2015) - Spangmik to Lukung (12Km)

Once it was decided that the day would be spent hanging around Pangong, woke up quite late. Sun was above the mountains.


View from the bed looking outside the tent opening


Pangong Lake panorama from outside the tent

Got ready and decided to vacate the tent. I wasn't sure where I would halt for the night.


Halted at a small beach few Km from Spangmik. Sun was out, so decide to chill (and some pictures) there for a while.


Another pic from same beach


Pangong Panorama


Another pic of the same beach, looking in other direction


Despite the cold water, decided to take a bath. A moment I was waiting for since I started planning this ride


Blue waters

A storm brewing up towards Chulshul persuaded me to not go in that direction. Plus I wasn't sure whether the army would let me pass inspite of having a permit. Decided to head towards Lukung


Another Panorama, taken from the road. The rock stacks are difficult to miss.


Another stretch of blue waters

At Lukung, had the first meal of the day. Then decided to forgo the bike and walk around.


Sunset view of Pangong Lake

As the day progressed the crowd melted away. Decided to take a bed there and stay for the day.

Re: From the rains of Uttarakhand to the deserts of Ladakh

Day 15 (July 20th 2015) - Lukung to Rumtse (178Km)

For today, had lofty goals i.e., get as far as Sarchu. The plan was destined to be a failure and would reach Sarchu only after two days. Yet it was fun all along the way. I would ride the way I had originally planned this ride to be i.e., with no pressures of time and distance. But that's for later.


On the road by 0600


Miniature tributries


Grazing meadows

A little after Tangtse, a person asked for lift to Chang La. I was skeptical whether the bike would carry both of us up the pass. However, since I had not seen any vehicle so far, I decided to give the lift. And that was to be a wise decision. Donji would help me push several time on the ascent to Changla


Donji, my saviour.


On way to Chang La


Chang la baba


Descent from Chang La


A water crossing on the way down


Zingral from above


Sakti Valley


Herd of sheep off to grazing grounds

At Sakti, stopped to have some food and then to Karu. At Karu, I refueled and then got the bike checked. The air filter was choked. So got it cleaned and then headed to Sarchu


Angry River


Desert Greenery


A local boy riding up the hill


Bridge at Rumtse

At Rumtse stopped for tea. As I sat there looking down the street and soaking in the silence, I just felt a peaceful sensation pass over me. I decided to pass the night there. Checked around for a place to stay and took up a bed in the hotel across the street. After dumping down my back, I wandered around the one street town.


A local gentleman


The only street in town


The local vistas


A local prayer assembly


Remote houses

The evening was spent hanging around the town. I probably drank tea in each one of town's shop. This was something I wanted from this trip - a laid back trip.
As it got dark, I went back to my room. While waiting for dinner, fell asleep. Woke up for dinner and went to sleep again.

Re: From the rains of Uttarakhand to the deserts of Ladakh

Day 16 (July 21th 2015) - Rumtse to Wiskey Nala (135Km)
Today was going to be a difficult and beautiful day.
I left Rumtse early hoping to get to Sarchu. The road was beautiful and so was the terrain.


Snows of Talang La


Ascent to Talang La


Reflections


Talang La Panorama


A sprinkling of snow


Above the snows


The ride became difficult as the altitude increased.


Snow everywhere


The way looking back


Finally on top of Talang La.

It was early in the morning and I had not seen a single vehicle all morning till I had reached the top of Talang La. The visibility was so low that I could hardly see ahead. I found two oil trucks stopped just as the descent down from Talang La started. They were about to start down. So I decided to follow the trucks a few meters behind.
This way I descended down from the pass.


The descent from Talang La


Finally the snow ended.


Panaroma At Debring

I stopped at Debring for breakfast.


Breakfast Halt


Moore Plains


More Moore Plains


Reflections


End of Moore Plains.

The road was excellent all morning. But as I approached Pang, the road disappeared.


The settlement of Pang.

A huge jam awaited me here.
At Pang I would find out that there was a large land slide ahead. So the traffic was completely blocked. News trickled in that two wheelers could pass. So I paired up with an Enfield rider and headed on. Even before we could reach the landslide point, the enfield got trapped in a sea of slush. Two of us tied to pull it out but it sank further in. So I returned back to get help.
After the Enfield got out of slush, they moved ahead while I returned to Pang. Waited there till there was all clear signal.


A little ahead, got stuck in another land slide. Waited an hour to get it cleared.

By now night was falling fast. I was racing against time to get to somewhere where I could find a bed for the night.


Lachulung La in fading light.


Descent from Lachulung La towards Wiskey Nala

Stopped ta Wiskey Nala for tea. There were few tents and it was a cold and lonely place. On impulse I decided to stay the night there. And to applause my decision, nature gave me a spectacular sunset. I wandered around in the fading light walking along the river bed.


Sunset glow


Wiskey Nala and the water crossing


Sunset Glow


Sunset

It was a cold and miserable night. The wind howled loudly in mourning all night. Yet I enjoyed the solitude.
With this all my buffer days were gone. I had three days and two nights to get to Nainital.

Day 17 (July 22th 2015) - Wiskey Nala to Sarchu (50Km)

While Wiskey Nala attracts for its desolateness, its not the best place to spend the night. The morning was quite cold. It was almost 0620 by the time I left. The cook was nice to wake up early in the morning and make me a cup of tea. So with warmth in my belly I was on my way.
The target for the day was Keylong or maybe even further.


Wiskey Nala settlement from top


Rise to NakeeLa


NaleeLa


More snow capped mountains ahead


On top of Gata Loops


Rock Formations


Gata Loops

Given the hype, Gata Loops are disappointing. Those who have ridden in the hills have been on these kind of loops several times. In South there is a hill station call Kolli Hills. To get there, you need to cross 72 loops (or U turns or hairpin bends as they are called)


A little ahead found a bridge that had become unstable. BRO was in the process of repairing it. Was stuck for 8 hrs here.


The sun was setting when I managed to cross the bridge.

It had been a long and somewhat boring wait. Mostly hung around talking with other travelers and sleeping on a patch of construction sand.


Rock formations at Sarchu

After crossing the bridge, stopped at Sarchu for food. While eating, saw a storm brewing up ahead. So decided to stay there. Next day would be a long ride to Manali.

Day 18 (July 23th 2015) - Sarchu to Manali (248Km)

Sarchu is known to be cold and it kept the reputaton. It was quite cold when we left in the morning.


Seeking a Ride


The ascent to Barcha La.


Snow and Ice


Barcha La Snows


Atop Barcha La


Wild Flowers


Mountain Stream

After Barcha La, the road improved a little and then disappeared. It was as if the last stretch to Jispa wanted to take its toll. Couple of water crossings and a longish landslide prone stretch later and we were at Jispa. The road became butter smooth after that.


Jispa Valley


Beautiful road before Keylong


Finally Keylong and proper punjabi food.


Wild flowers just before Koksar


Waterfall at Koksar

The ascent from Koksar to Rohtang was a mess. First the road was real bad with potholes everywhere and heavy traffic. Then as we reached Rohtang, there was dense fog. Visibility was absolute zero. Slowly we descended down till the fog lifted at Marhi. There we had tea.
The decent to Manali was smooth. While the valley was picturesque, did not stop to take pictures. At Manali stopped to get one of the bikes repaired. Decided to keep going till it gets dark.
Finally stayed at a hotel around 20Km after Manali.
Tomorrow was going to be a long day.

Day 19 (July 24th 2015) - Manali to Nainital (780Km)

Before sleeping I had made up my mind to make a run for Nainital. The distance was huge, but my mind was determined.
Woke up at 0400 to find it was raining outside. Disappointed, I went to sleep. Woke up again to find the rain was gone. Leaving other behind, I was on my way by 0530. The other has different destination for the day.
I won't write much about the day other than that it was all riding, riding and more riding. Camera was safely tucked in the bag.
By the time I reached Nainital, it was 7 minutes to midnight. I had covered 780Km for the day.
Posting a picture for the day:

ईन जूतैं ने बहुत साथ निभाया

A journey of 19 days and 4000Km was over. One I would never forget.

Re: From the rains of Uttarakhand to the deserts of Ladakh

Superb, was going through this thread on a daily basis, very detailed writeup and amazing pics too. Wishing you all the very best in the future and hope to have many more tlogs from you..

Re: From the rains of Uttarakhand to the deserts of Ladakh

Thanks buddy.
Glad you likes the TLog.

Re: From the rains of Uttarakhand to the deserts of Ladakh

Very good photos and good write-up in combination with photos. Your too solo trip is inspirational.
Another good thing is that you took pain in editing the photos and posted them sequentially along with write up. Good work

Re: From the rains of Uttarakhand to the deserts of Ladakh

Thanks for the appreciation.
I wouldn't say that it was a fully solo ride. I made new friends and rode with them on days. That's one of the good things of riding out there on a bike.

Re: From the rains of Uttarakhand to the deserts of Ladakh

This changing from VB4 to VB5 to again VB4 really really sucks.

I was regularly watching this thread, but for the past 2-3 weeks I was constantly thinking why there is not any update on the thread as I am not getting any mails about the new posts.

Today I just opened the thread and found all the most-perfect photos there to watch with a nice write-up