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Ladakh : Journey to a barren paradise

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  • Ladakh : Journey to a barren paradise

    Two Couples...



    (left to right- Abhishek (me), Sandhya (my wife), Nishant, Arti (Nishant's wife))

    Two Bikes...
    Yamaha FAZER 150 and Bajaj Avenger 220.



    and a journey to remember lifetime.....

    (This is my first travelogue and my writing skills are not so good, so kindly bear with it. )

    It all started after a 3 days ride from Dehradun - Shimla - Dehradun, when after returning Nishant put an idea of a trip to leh-ladakh on bike. At first i was not interested as i thought it will take lot of time and budget to complete this kind of trip.
    After returning to normal day to day life i started searching pics of leh-ladakh on google for just passing time, and within no time, i got mesmerised with the beauty of Ladakh and decided we should give it a try. I shared the idea with my wife and she was much excited than me.
    So after talking with Nishant and Arti we started researching about our tour by reading travelog about leh, articles about Accute mountain sickness, bike maintanance and little to little things that we could need on this trip. And the tavelog by vishwas sir on xbhp.com really helped a lot. http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/13391-my-first-ride-ever-khardung-la-18380-ft-riding-world-s-highest-motorabl.html

    Initially our itinerary (which we planned) was :-

    Day 1 :- Dehradun to Pathankot
    Day 2 :- Pathankot to srinagar
    Day 3 :- Srinagar to kargil
    Day 4 :- Kargil to leh
    Day 5 :- leh
    Day 6 :- leh to nubra valley
    Day 7 :- nubra valley to pangong via shyok village
    Day 8 :- Pangong to leh
    Day 9 :- Leh to tso moriri
    Day 10 :- tso moriri to sarchu
    Day 11 :- sarchu to manali
    Day 12 :- Manali to Dehradun
    2-3 Buffer days
    It seems to be good itinerary but at ground level, it changed to

    Day 1 :- Dehradun to mukeriyan
    Day 2 :- Mukeriyan to srinagar
    Day 3 :- Srinagar to kargil
    Day 4 :- Kargil to leh
    Day 5 :- leh
    Day 6 :- leh - khardung la - leh
    Day 7 :- leh to Tso Moriri
    Day 8 :- Tso Moriri to sarchu
    Day 9 :- sarchu to Manali
    Day 10 :- Manali to Dehradun

    To be continued.. till then, here are some pics..

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    Only a bike rider knows why Dog sticks out his face out of car's window...

  • #2
    Re: Ladakh : Journey to a barren paradise

    Travelogue Approved

    Wonderful. Lovely pictures, it must have been quite an adventure. Way to go
    Biking is not about what you have between your legs, its all about how well you use it!!!!!!!

    Give your details here if you want to help your fellow xBhpian stranded in your city

    Touring Blog: Cycling in Mongolia!

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    • #3
      Re: Ladakh : Journey to a barren paradise

      ladakh ride was not my childhood dream or my dream ride until i read ladakh travelogues and seen pics of ladakh last year, and now i must say everyone should do this journey once in a life time....

      So after researching a lot on web for our ladakh trip and having several meetings, 10th june was decided for journey and preparation were started from september 2014.

      Main concern was bikes.. I have Yamaha Fazer 150cc and after searching and asking questions on many forums, i didn't got positive reviews about the bike's performance on high altitude. Everyone was telling me that it creates problem on solo ride on such high altitude and riding to leh on fazer with pillion is not going to work. Viswas sir experience on Changla with Fz had already gave me goosebumps. My uncle have Royal enfield 350 too which i could borrow, but for some unknown reasons, i want to complete this journey on my beloved black pearl only. So after many if or buts, fazer was finalized (it dit create some trouble, but was comfortable to ride).
      For Nishant, he sold his fathers splendor and got Bajaj avenger 200cc for the journey.. and an action cam too..and new zoom lens for DSLR.. (he he.. guy really got guts to manage the budget.. )

      Next hurdle was to get approval from parents and the task was completed by begging to them numerous times and by explaining our detailed plan to them, with staying options, climate conditions etc. Initially they were against it but at last they agreed. And i must say, after completing the tour, my father was very proud of us. May be i'll feel it when my children (which are yet to be born) will go to ladakh on there own bikes.

      We were ready mentally and started puchasing neccessary items, eatables etc for the trip. Saddle bags were custom made for our bikes with foam working as coushin for pillion rider, and they held well throuhout the journey.
      I got my bike serviced one week prior to trip, changed sprocket set, new clutch cable, clutch plates, accelerator wire and other minor checks and we were all set to go..

      Lets start the ride......

      Day 1 :- Dehradun to Mukeriyan (punjab) approx 400kms

      Our journey started on the eve of 9th june from Dehradun and we reached vikasnagar at Nishant's house. We had decided to leave at 3 p.m. from vikasnagar as our destination for first day was far and we planned to cross chandigarh early to avoid heat.

      All bags were packed and tied to bike and after dinner at 8:00pm we tried to sleep a bit as we have to start early but we were not able to sleep. Everyone was feeling so excited that waiting for 7 hours seems to be eternity. But somehow we managed to sleep 2-3 hours. We started at around 3:00 am.

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      Not a single soul was on road and we were riding nicely on 60-70kmph. After riding approx. 75 km suddenly my bike stopped. It was not moving forward on accelerating. I checked and saw bike's chain was loose. After opening the cover we came to know front sprocket was missing. I haven't heard about loosing front sprocket during ride before. And there we are, in the middle of the road at 4:00 am, searching for sprocket in dark, with torch in hand. But we haven't found it.
      There came plastic rope to rescue. Nishant tied it between two bikes and then Avenger pulled it for further two or three kms to reach shambhuwala, where we can get mechanic. It was 5 am of morning and after calling every mobile number displayed on the board of mechanic shops, result was, we have to wait for 3-4 hours for a shop to be open. We sat there and took a nap. Problem was fixed at 8:30 am and we moved further.

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      As time was passing, heat was increasing and we were about to reach chandigarh. We were lucky as i think there was guruparb that day and till we crossed punjab, we were getting roohafza and watermelons constantly on road itself. May god bless them all as it keeped us hydrated in that scorching heat. We didn't crossed chandigarh and went to una crossing panchkula and Baddi.

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      We didn't took much pics as the weather was unbearabely hot. By the time we reach Una, heat had taken its toll on us and headache was proof of it.
      We rested on a ground by the side of road and slept there for almost half n hour, while nishant took couple of shots there. After that crossed Hoshiyarpur and Dasuya.

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      Our initial plan was to reach Pathankot for night halt but as we reached Mukeriyan, wind storm started followed with rain and weather was not looking good to ride further, so we booked a roadside hotel for night.

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      (Thats all for first day. We were not able to click much pics on first day but i assure you that some nice shots are yet to come as we move further...)


      ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

      Originally posted by The Monk View Post
      Travelogue Approved

      Wonderful. Lovely pictures, it must have been quite an adventure. Way to go
      yeah... it was an awesome adventure..
      Only a bike rider knows why Dog sticks out his face out of car's window...

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Ladakh : Journey to a barren paradise

        Way to go, lovely pics indeed. Waiting for the rest..
        It's a lot like nuts and bolts - if the rider's nuts, the ride - bolts!

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Ladakh : Journey to a barren paradise

          Awesome start. Bring on the rest!
          A bike on the road is worth two in the shed.

          Weekend Rides Around Kolkata
          My Ride To Sunderbans -
          Hemnagar & Samsernagar
          Saagar Kinare - Bakkhali Calling

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Ladakh : Journey to a barren paradise

            Originally posted by Sal View Post
            Way to go, lovely pics indeed. Waiting for the rest..
            thanks buddy..

            ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

            Originally posted by krishna77 View Post
            Awesome start. Bring on the rest!
            thanks krishna.. will post 2nd day's details by the evening..
            Only a bike rider knows why Dog sticks out his face out of car's window...

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Ladakh : Journey to a barren paradise

              Awesome ride there. First set of Pics are wonderful. Keep the rest of log and pics flowing.
              Pulsar 150 DTS-i(2005-present)
              Royal Enfield std 350(2010-2012)Sold
              Pulsar 200NS(2013-present)
              Royal Enfield Bullet Electra(2014-Present)


              Hero Octane(2011-2012)Sold
              Cannondale Trial SL 5(2012-present)

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              • #8
                Re: Ladakh : Journey to a barren paradise

                Awesome trip. Awesome clicks too. Dear bro, will you please suggest me out of the two steed which performed better compared to the other one. Expecting a honest reply as both steed are on my list as am planning for a long solo ride soon.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Ladakh : Journey to a barren paradise

                  Awesome ride, waiting for the rest.
                  KTM RC390 - Current
                  Yamaha R15 v2 - Sold
                  Hero Hunk - Sold
                  An IT Engineer by profession and a rider by soul.


                  Delhi to Sach Pass - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/3...h-ka-darr.html
                  Delhi to Mana - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...xperience.html
                  Delhi to Munsyari - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...ttrakhand.html
                  Spiti circuit - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/3...cuit-solo.html

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                  • #10
                    Re: Ladakh : Journey to a barren paradise

                    Originally posted by koolsantosh22 View Post
                    Awesome ride there. First set of Pics are wonderful. Keep the rest of log and pics flowing.
                    Thanks Santosh. Surely, pics will be flowing as choosing pics to post here is becoming a tedious task for me.

                    ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

                    Originally posted by Rider11 View Post
                    Awesome trip. Awesome clicks too. Dear bro, will you please suggest me out of the two steed which performed better compared to the other one. Expecting a honest reply as both steed are on my list as am planning for a long solo ride soon.
                    Thanks bro. Bajaj Avenger performed well though. You should better choose Avenger between these two. Best of luck for your ride in advance.

                    ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

                    Day 2 :- Mukeriyan to srinagar approx 400kms

                    After staying in a hotel in Mukeriyan we started early from there on 11th June at around 5:00 am, as we previously decided to start everyday early so we can get time easily on evening everyday. Weather was nice and bit cold in early morning because of rain previous evening.

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                    (Ready to roll...)

                    I didn't knew about road but Nishant told me that we were riding on national corridor which connects North India to south India directly by road.
                    Riding at normal speed we reached samba at around 7:00 am. There we were reviewed our route and got confused about which route should we take, national highway which goes through Jammu or bypass from Samba to Srinagar. I also forgot to keep chain lube for my bike. Thus, me and Nishant went to a spare part shop to buy one. There we chatted with the shop owner Vinod, for a while. He was big follower of lord Shiva, has been to Amarnath 10 times and was ready for his 11th Yatra. He suggest us to go via bypass as we can enjoy the beauty of a lake named Mansar lake. We were also thinking of it as bypass can save us some time as it was short (but thats became our mistake). He also suggested us a tea shop in a place named Nud and insisted to make a halt there.
                    So after bidding him farewell we moved toward mansar lake.

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                    (Me and Nishant with Vinod.)

                    Road was good at start and view started to change. We stopped for some pics and moved further.

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                    Then we had our breakfast at Nud, and after riding a bit came Mansar lake. Parked our rides and went to enjoy lake's beauty. Fed fishes there and clicked some pics. We didn't stopped for much time and rode further. Next stop was Patnitop. But this bypass had it own flavour to serve.

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                    Road was not good nor bad, but the trucks...ahhhh we crossed over hundreds of trucks in this route approximately all were going towards Srinagar. We overtake them one by one but smoke and road dust was the only thing we can feel.

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                    Next we stopped at patnitop and clicked some pics and rested there for almost half n hour. This place seems to be ultimate family picnic spot. There was greenery all around, cottages for rent and a ground for children to play.

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                    After leaving from Patnitop, again we found ourselves behind the moving..or should i say crawling trucks. We became frustated by smoke and dust and the route was started to seem like eternity. Suddenly Nishant stopped, i came back and came to know that the carrier which he had fastened behind his bike to carry camera bag, was broken.

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                    Then we tied the bag at avenger's backrest with couple of bungees and it didn't bother us for rest of our journey, after all Whatever happens, happens for the best (jo hota hai, acche ke liye hee hota hai).

                    We stopped at a place to rest a bit, and there we ate some local berries (sorry, can't recall the name of place, may be any one here can tell by looking at pics).

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                    We started our ride further and Srinagar was still somewhere far. It started to getting dark and there were no sign of our destination. By this time i was getting scared a bit, as riding in dark at unknown place with wife as a pillion, doesn't seems to be nice idea. Then we saw lights at distance and came to know we were approaching Srinagar. We reached Srinagar at 9:30 pm. Now next task was to find a decent room and because we were late, our options were less.
                    While we were still riding in city, a guy approached us in his bike and asked us if we were looking for room to stay. He told us that he owns a houseboat in Dal lake and we should check it out. We followed and he took us to a place near roadside and after checking it out we find them worst. Believe me, they were pathetic. It was dark at 9:45 pm and we cant see around but the place was stinking badly.

                    We backed ourselves and booked a room in hotel on main road for Rs 900/-. The hotel guy was really nice and took care of our parking nicely. Our bike were parked inside hotel for night.

                    Thats how second day of our ride passed..
                    Only a bike rider knows why Dog sticks out his face out of car's window...

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Ladakh : Journey to a barren paradise

                      Great going. Carry on!
                      A bike on the road is worth two in the shed.

                      Weekend Rides Around Kolkata
                      My Ride To Sunderbans -
                      Hemnagar & Samsernagar
                      Saagar Kinare - Bakkhali Calling

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Ladakh : Journey to a barren paradise

                        Day 3 : Srinagar to kargil approx 202 kms

                        We woke up late on 12th June, thus couldn't start our day early. We rode off from hotel at around 8:am. At the dark of night we really didn't know where we were are, but at morning we realized we were just by side of Dal lake. We rode on road beside lake and enjoyed its beauty. We stopped and clicked some pics.





                        House boats in lake were looking awesome.



                        On whole journey my wife was clicking pics sitting behind and she really took some great pics of places where we didn't stopped (thanks to her for that).
                        Weather was hot and our plan was to ride till Sonamarg, but after riding a bit we saw Nishaat garden. As we had time we purchased tickets and went to see garden. It was worth a stop. Garden was beautiful and was full of many flowers and various trees. A water stream was flowing in middle of the garden from up to down. From there can have a god view of lake too.



                        (clicked a pic and can't stop myself to post it here [though we are more in pic than garden itself])




                        After clicking lots of pics there we started again towards sonamarg. On the way we had our bikes checked and had our breakfast (i forgot the name of the place, it was somewhere ahead Ganderbal). We were riding inside city and traffic was more than we expected.


                        Kashmiri Snacks..

                        After riding some distance we found ourselves riding beside Sind river. By this time landscape has changed, natural beauty starts to take over. We stopped to click some pics enroute.



                        Riding beside Sind river we reached Gund. Landscape became so awesome there, that we had to make a stop there for some time. Feeling and view, both was awesome. We clicked many pics there and then started to rode towards sonamarg.




                        We were riding enjoying view of snow clad peaks beside river. Army camps and training centers were everywhere and we can see army personals standing at peaks beside roadside. Then we saw it, a bridge with "Welcome to Sonamarg" banner on it.



                        Sonamarg's beauty is too much to describe here. Even pics we clicked stand nowhere near reality. Not only sonamarg, but for leh-ladakh too, pics can just give idea of beauty, but you have to visit there to feel and enjoy real beauty of nature.






                        After enjoying Sonamarg's beauty we rode towards kargil as we want to reach by the evening. Then we reached at the slimb of Zojila. We had just started the climb and after a litle bit suddenly my bike refused to climb. My wife had to walk for a short distance and i rode bike on half clutch. I don't had other option than to ride bike on half clutch, though it is not recommended. Road was all slushy as there was no tarmac and water flowing down from melting ice was creating slush on road. It was becoming difficult to ride a bike there which was loosing its power. But somehow we crossed it.







                        After that road was nice but bike's response was not like i was used too. It took some time to manage with it. We went towrds drass enjoying landscape. We stopped at Drass to have our lunch.

















                        After Drass we were moving towards kargil and we saw flag hosting at a distance. It was Kargil war memorial. It was one of the great place we visited. There was museum too in there which had pics, weapons and other things related to Kargil war. Tiger hill and Tololing peaks can be seen from here.










                        By this time we were being late. It was about to be 7:00pm and we were still far from kargir. From there to kargil, we didn't clicked any pics. We reached kargil check post at 9:00pm, so was not able to see places just before kargil. But hiighway was awesome as at dark also we were riding above 70kmph there. Road was well seen at dark too beacuse of reflectors at roadside.

                        At kargil we booked a room in Paradise Guest House near Government Hospital for Rs 500/- only.
                        Only a bike rider knows why Dog sticks out his face out of car's window...

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Ladakh : Journey to a barren paradise

                          I don't really know if it's the mountains, but you got some really crisp captures there - marvelous!!!

                          ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

                          I don't really know if it's the mountains, but you got some really crisp captures there - marvelous!!!
                          BENEATH THE REMAINS.........
                          Instagram - chaosaddict666 (follow for atypical uploads on heavy metal, bikes, alcohol, chakna, life, fashion yada, yada)
                          YouTube - chaosaddict666 (Disclaimer: crappiest uploads ever, viewer discretion is advised)

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Ladakh : Journey to a barren paradise

                            Originally posted by chaosaddict View Post
                            I don't really know if it's the mountains, but you got some really crisp captures there - marvelous!!!
                            Ofcourse it's mountains , as my photography skill are just average (i think).
                            Only a bike rider knows why Dog sticks out his face out of car's window...

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Ladakh : Journey to a barren paradise

                              Day 4 :- Kargil to leh approx 211kms

                              13th june

                              Room and food, both were awesome in Kargil. At evening we did some shopping there.
                              At morning we start around 7:00 AM after breakfast. Today's task was to reach leh.






                              While moving towards leh, landscape started to change. Greenery was fading away and bare mountain peaks were taking its place. I hadn't seen this type of landscape in my liffetime. After riding for almost two hours we stopped in a place to click some pics. I havn't seen any hoarding with information about the name of the place, but after searching on google map while writing this post, i thik it may be Shargoel, between leh to lamayuru.
                              From here it was like only mountain peaks were there as far as we can see. Car or buses at kilometers away can be seen from standing at a place. After passing a good half n hour there clicking pics, we rode toward leh.







                              Had a bowl of yeppi noodles at roadside restaurant on the way.



                              We passed Namik la and reached Fotula, which was the highest pass on srinagar-leh highway. Though bike was little out of power while reaching there, but nothing serious. We stood there for hardly 5 minutes and light snowfall started. We had to leave the place with 4-5 pics only as it would be difficult for us to move forward, if by any chance that light snowfall had changed to heavy snowfall.



                              After riding 15 kms ahead from fotula, we reached lamayuru. I don't know why but i was very excited to visit lamayuru, may because of that tata sky advertisement "mein ladakh ke lamayuru gaon se bol rhi hu, kya aap yaha tata sky laga sakte hai ? "(i am speaking from lamayuru village of ladakh, can you install tata sky here?)". We visited lamayuru monastry and enjoyed Mask dance of ladakh.








                              After that while riding towards leh we saw a rider from karnataka trying to tie his thunderbird's silencer on bike, which was detached from bike. We helped him eith that. He had transported the bike from karnataka to chandigarh and was riding solo from chandigarh onwards. We rode together to khaltse and asked mechanic if he can fix it, but machanic denied and we rode towards leh.



                              While riding towards leh. Landscape is all you can think about. Clicked many pics on the way.










                              We stopped near magnetic hill and tried to climb towards it. But set back as Board there states that riding towards mountain is prohibited.





                              while riding from there to leh was different experience as wind was blowing fast than we had encountered on whole way.
                              We passed through Nimmo and landscape was looking barren. Then we passed through Gurudwara Pathar Sahib and riding a bit from there we reached at the welcome gate of Leh at around 5:00 PM.




                              As you enter leh, statues and structures of indian army welcomes you. Hall of fame, kargil war statues was there and Indian flag was also hosted at the middle of intersection

                              Bike was giving me some trouble as it was just out of power in riding leh too.
                              So as decided earlier by reading vishwas sir's t'log in xbhp, i went to Juma automobiles to make adjustment in carb. He was very busy and asked me to come next day. So we started searching for room and booked a room in Togoshey Guest house near Leh main market.
                              Last edited by abhi_szr; 10-07-2015, 11:12 PM.
                              Only a bike rider knows why Dog sticks out his face out of car's window...

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