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**sajalsheth** · 12-30-2015, 12:09 AM

Re: S 3 | Sohra, Sandakphu & Sikkim

14. Day 12 = 7th Oct., 2015

Siliguri to Gangtok.

Total km traveled 150. Ride time 6.15 AM to 11.00 AM.
I rode to Gangtok passing Sevoke, Melli, Rangpo & Singtam.

Click HERE =& Press to listen to soothing music in background

I need to get Permit to visit North and East Sikkim. Previously, if you apply for Permit before 11am then you can get it on same day. So me and Harsh decided to meet directly at Home Department at Manan Bhawan, Gangtok.

I was given brief details of getting Permit by Neel Dey last night.

Started at 6.15am from Siliguri & had breakfast on the way.

Road from Siliguri to Gangtok is very beautiful and it goes along river Teesta. Some view of Teesta on the way…

I reached at 10.30am at Home Department of Gangtok. I met Harsh there only. Harsh had already searched for a hotel at Gangtok near Paljor Stadium.

We applied for Permit with all the needed papers and we were informed that it will be given to us at 10AM next day only.

They said that the procedure has changed now. After getting Permit from Home Department, we have to again go to Check post Branch of Office of ADG of Police, Gangtok to get Restricted Area Permit. This office is at start of M.G.Road and it opens at 7am to 10am daily.

We saw two bikers waiting there and it was already 12pm and they applied for permit yesterday. So second day of those riders was also wasted in Permit work only. So we requested them to give us permit same day only.

There were many riders from Kolkata also. We all were trying to get Permit on same day. But Home Department lady start who receives permit application said that she will get it ready at 10am next day only.

The time of we riders was very important as we cannot just sit and wait for Permit for two days. We tried to meet higher authority (a lady) to get Permit on same day at least by evening. But she also said they have instruction to issue Permit on next day morning only.

This was wastage of time for us. But then also we accept it as we need to get Permit to visit East and North Sikkim.
But we all were still waiting there and requesting them to give Permit today itself.

There we met a unique rider. He is Mr. Krishnanu Kona. He is on Guinness World Record Official Attempt for 50,000 KM in India.

While talking with him I found that he also rides Bajaj Pulsar 200 NS and He also uses Viaterra Claw bag. And his bike is of black color like me.
So many similarities!

I told him to show is bike, which was parked at Manan Bhawan.

We talked a lot about his ride and his experience. We took a picture together for good memories.

He was telling me that look at my luggage for 3 months and your luggage for 19 days. I was carrying too much.

It was 1.00pm and we all riders decided to come back on next day morning only. So this was RED TAPE of Home Department of Government of Sikkim, which does not understand the importance of time of travelers. We felt like losers and cursing them. This is that Manan Bhawan. God save all travelers from this RED TAPISM.

This practice of excessive paperwork and tedious procedures to get final Restricted Area Permit is big harassment to travelers.

All riders were unhappy and in bad mood now. Harsh also felt same.

But finally we thought that at least we can start at 10.30 am next day and reach Mangan or Thangu. We can take rest for half day and recharge our self.

We reached at the YMCA associate hotel, which was near Paljor Stadium.

The name was Himakshi Lodge and it is owned by a lady. Harsh booked a double bed room for Rs.400/= after some bargaining.

After unloading our luggage at lodge we went for lunch. We decided to go by one bike only. I took my bike and Harsh was pillion. We went to Aggarwal’s for lunch. This fast food restaurant is opposite taxi stand near Dominos.

But another problem was waiting for us there. Traffic police stopped us and asked for bike’s paper as he saw the bike was from outside Sikkim. I showed him insurance, Registration, PUC and license. But he insisted on original registration papers. I told him that it is at hotel and I am carrying photocopy. But he wanted to harass us somehow. He asked so many questions and just wasted our time. Lastly he took my license and told me that my pillion is not wearing helmet. He issued one seizure memo to us.

We went to Lodge and brought original registration papers of bike. He told us to visit police control room and pay fine there. This control room is at start of M.G.Road near Tourist office. The police officer in charge there was very good man. He heard all the matter and told that he will charge minimum as we are their guests. He finally fined Rs.300 and told me to deposit in State Bank of Sikkim. I went to Bank and deposited Rs.300 in specific account.

This is the final receipt which I showed to seizing traffic police and got my license back.

The other traffic police who met us there told us that some police have agenda to harass travelers. If he was there, then he would not have done that to tourist who are guest and source of income for the state.

Then we went searching for Bajaj Service Station as I needed left side rear view mirror, which was broken on the way to Sandakphu. We met Krishnanu Kona there again, he was getting his bike serviced. I could get pulsar 150’s rear view mirror there and fitted it on my bike. Harsh also did some repairs in his bike.
Then we went to see Banjhakri Fall which was near, but it was closed.

At around 6.30pm we three were roaming at M.G.Road. No vehicle is allowed in this road & it is a walk only street. We parked our bike near police control room.
This is famous Mahatma Gandhiji statue at the start.

This is Harsh & me, clicked by Krishnanu.

We took our dinner there & roamed on M.G.Road up to 8pm.

Before sleeping, I took the suggested medicines. And hoped our Permit will be ready at 10AM next day.

This was my ride map for the day.

Google GPS link:-

Click HERE for next update.

Coming up….next…. delay by Red Tape mechanism of Home Dept and Police Dept of Sikkim, Seven Sister Waterfall, & Mangan.

**krishna77** · 12-30-2015, 06:33 AM

Re: S 3 | Sohra, Sandakphu & Sikkim

The nightlife has been captured brilliantly!

**rajpal** · 12-30-2015, 09:18 AM

Re: S 3 | Sohra, Sandakphu & Sikkim

W.O.W

And MORE WOW!!

What an awesome trip...Esp. found the Sandakphu part really tough. Those 'Roads' (if you can call them that) - wow! It takes a lot of courage and determination to even walk those roads and you took your bikes.

Helmets off to you gentlemen!

If I may say something - (Hope you don't mind) - I would request you to also invest in a good pair of riding boots. For long rides such as taken by yourself, the boots will come in handy. You were lucky that the fall did not injure your foot more.

You have jacket, gloves, helmet, knee guards and the last thing to get should be boots. I'm speaking from experience and in both cases, my boots saved me from getting my ankle/foot getting injured by the weight of the bike.

Having said that - Please continue Sir.

And Thanks for sharing it with us. You've put a lot of time and effort in categorising these pics and converting them to this awesome travelogue.

**sajalsheth** · 12-30-2015, 05:18 PM

Re: S 3 | Sohra, Sandakphu & Sikkim

Originally posted by krishna77 View Post

The nightlife has been captured brilliantly!

Thank you [MENTION=57323]krishna77[/MENTION] ji...

Originally posted by rajpal View Post

W.O.W

And MORE WOW!!

What an awesome trip...Esp. found the Sandakphu part really tough. Those 'Roads' (if you can call them that) - wow! It takes a lot of courage and determination to even walk those roads and you took your bikes.

Helmets off to you gentlemen!

If I may say something - (Hope you don't mind) - I would request you to also invest in a good pair of riding boots. For long rides such as taken by yourself, the boots will come in handy. You were lucky that the fall did not injure your foot more.

You have jacket, gloves, helmet, knee guards and the last thing to get should be boots. I'm speaking from experience and in both cases, my boots saved me from getting my ankle/foot getting injured by the weight of the bike.

Having said that - Please continue Sir.

And Thanks for sharing it with us. You've put a lot of time and effort in categorising these pics and converting them to this awesome travelogue.

Thank you [MENTION=61751]rajpal[/MENTION] ji for you kind suggestions ..... For my next big ride, I will surely buy a pair of riding shoes. I request you to suggest some also. If possible with online link.
In my first big ride, I had wind cheater,knee guards and gloves. Then I purchased riding jacket for this ride. Next should be riding shoes only.

Thanks again Rajpal ji

Originally posted by krishna77 View Post

Brilliant captures Sajal bhai!
Thanks for bringing the beauty of north Bengal to everone.

Thank you [MENTION=57323]krishna77[/MENTION] ji .... after every update...I wait for your comments.

**rajpal** · 12-31-2015, 06:09 AM

Re: S 3 | Sohra, Sandakphu & Sikkim

Originally posted by sajalsheth View Post

Thank you @rajpal ji for you kind suggestions ..... For my next big ride, I will surely buy a pair of riding shoes. I request you to suggest some also. If possible with online link.

In my first big ride, I had wind cheater,knee guards and gloves. Then I purchased riding jacket for this ride. Next should be riding shoes only.

Thanks again Rajpal ji

No need to thank me Sajal Sir

I don't live in India anymore (and When I was living there, I never took any long trips. I was just riding locally with the standard jeans and sports shoes) so am unable to recommend any boots.

A search on Amazon India gives a fair idea - Amazon.in: Motorcycle Boots: Car & Motorbike

Something like this might be a good idea : Zeus TZX140 Zx1 Leather Tornado Riding Boot (Black, Size 40): Amazon.in: Car & Motorbike

Last time I went to the Royal Enfield showroom in Calcutta, they had some riding boots and they looked tough as well. I thought they were a bit over priced but worth the investment.

**dichkaun** · 12-31-2015, 07:54 AM

Re: S 3 | Sohra, Sandakphu & Sikkim

Great. This keeps getting better.

**sajalsheth** · 12-31-2015, 01:25 PM

Re: S 3 | Sohra, Sandakphu & Sikkim

Originally posted by rajpal View Post

No need to thank me Sajal Sir

I don't live in India anymore (and When I was living there, I never took any long trips. I was just riding locally with the standard jeans and sports shoes) so am unable to recommend any boots.

A search on Amazon India gives a fair idea - Amazon.in: Motorcycle Boots: Car & Motorbike

Something like this might be a good idea : Zeus TZX140 Zx1 Leather Tornado Riding Boot (Black, Size 40): Amazon.in: Car & Motorbike

Last time I went to the Royal Enfield showroom in Calcutta, they had some riding boots and they looked tough as well. I thought they were a bit over priced but worth the investment.

Thank You [MENTION=61751]rajpal[/MENTION] ji.... for the links

**sajalsheth** · 01-01-2016, 06:06 PM

Re: S 3 | Sohra, Sandakphu & Sikkim

Originally posted by dichkaun View Post

Great. This keeps getting better.

Thank you [MENTION=24434]dichkaun[/MENTION] ji.... I am sure you will enjoy Gurudongmor Lake part most.

**sambit** · 01-02-2016, 12:46 AM

Re: S 3 | Sohra, Sandakphu & Sikkim

The night life seems good. The market seems like our 1 No. BBSR market.

So, I think 3 days were wasted in this trip. 1-Thunderbird issue, 2-Your health issue, 3- Permit issue.

**sajalsheth** · 01-03-2016, 05:45 PM

Re: S 3 | Sohra, Sandakphu & Sikkim

15. Day 13 = 8th Oct., 2015

Gangtok to Mangan.

Total km traveled 78. Ride time 1.00 pm to 5.15 pm.
We rode to Mangan passing Seven Sisters Waterfalls, RateChhu & DikChhuRiver.

ClickHERE =& Pressto listen to soothing music in background

Today we did not want to get up early as our first main work i.e. Permit was to be given at 10 AM only. But excitement made us woke up early. We were ready at 9am and finished our breakfast. We washed our bikes and put oil on chain.

Our lodge was near Paljor Stadium, and there was a football match going on.

This stadium is having good view of surrounding mounts also.

We were doing time pass by shouting and encouraging local players.

I and Harsh were very happy that finally we will get Permit and re start riding.
This is happy Harsh.

And that’s me

In Gangtok you can also have a helicopter ride in morning time. But we did not have time.

We reach at Home Department of Government of Sikkim at Manan Bhawan at 9.55 am. To our surprise office was empty. Only 2-3 staffs of peon level were present. Riders from Kolkata, whom we met yesterday, also arrived. We all waited patiently.
At 10.30 am, the young lady who had taken all our papers arrived. First thing she did was logging in Face Book …!!

We all asked her about our final permit. She said that papers were forwarded to concern department head for signing after doing her work yesterday.
The concern office to sign and papers was absent till 11 am. She was also a lady. On enquiry we found that she has gone to attend “parent teacher meeting’….!

There are 80% lady staffs in Home Department and they were busy in FB or online shopping…! No body was giving proper answer to us. They were behaving like we have come begging for donation and were avoiding us. We were worried now.

We asked for help with higher officials. All said that the lady who signs will come late so we have to wait. It was 12 PM now and we were being harassed as if we had come from outside India.

Such a red tapism of Sikkim….! They just want tourist to stay in hotel and think that biker’s time is not at all important.

But God helps in many ways. There was a higher office (a true GentleMAN) who understood our problem and immediately called concern lady and asked her to sign from different officer(that was also a lady ! ) and not to waste our time. After this gentleMAN higher officer’s action, our file started moving. And that ‘Parent Teacher Meeting” lady office also arrived at last and signed. File moved to other tables and finally we got some covers at 12.50pm :-

There was this letter of approval inside. I had mentioned Cho Lhamo Lake in my list of places to visit, but I forgot to re check that in approval letter. I came to know only about this at 3rd mile check post.

I met a local travel agent who charges Rs.700/- for doing all these work of Permit. I took his phone number for future rider’s help.

I also met with other travel agent who forgot to give me his number. So a biker need not go personally to get all these permit.

Now we have to again go to Check post Branch of Office of ADG of Police, Gangtok to get Restricted Area Permit. This office is at start of M.G.Road and it opens at 7am to 10am daily. So this office was closed and alternatively we have to go to 3rd Mile Check Post, which is near Hanuman Tok.

We reached there at 2.10pm after picking our luggage from hotel. We also skipped our lunch fearing further delay would give 3rd Mile Check post police a reason to reject our permit and we will have to stay again in Gangtok for a night. This is picture of 3rd mile Check post.

There we produced our photographs & those letters from Home Department and our final permit was issued. Rs.20 was charged per person there.

We were told to make 8-10 photocopied of this final permit. It will be given at many check post on our way. This is how FINAL PERMIT looked (pictures taken after completion of ride, so all check post’s stamp is there).

The time of we riders is always very important and we cannot just sit and wait for Permit for two days. Sikkim Government & Police Department should understand this.

God save all travelers from this RED TAPISM and from those “Non-Working” lady staff and lady officers of Manan Bhawan.

This practice of excessive paperwork and tedious procedures to get final Restricted Area Permit is a big harassment to travelers and they should learn from Ladakh.

Ladakh has learned overtime & understood the importance of tourist and their time.
In Leh, I got ILP within 2 hours of applying and that to without any harassment.

There should be a single window clearance system in Sikkim. This will make tourist happy.

Current Procedure to get permit for bikers:-

To get permit you need photocopy of DL, few passport size photographs, RC or registration certificate of your bike, Address proof and a form in duplicated need to be filled up at Home Department (Google address of Home Department is 27.334961, 88.614417 ). If you are not riding your own bike, then carry an authorization letter in stamp paper from the owner.

This Form will be given in Home Department, Government of Sikkim, Manan Bhawan’s Basement, Gangtok-737101. Please mention extra total number of days in that application form as your trip may be delayed due to land slide or other uncertain reasons. I mean to say that you add 2-3 days with your planned days.

Apply on day 1 and you will get it on day 2 afternoon.
After processing they will give you 6-7 letter of approval in covers.
No charges for this.

Carry this to Police Office counter at Starting point of M.G.Road, behind Sikkim Tourist office Google address is 27.330183, 88.612437 ) .
But this counter is open from 7am to 10am only.

After 10 am but before 1pm, you will have to ride to 3rd Mile Check Post (google Address 27.345453, 88.634807 ) near Hanuman Tok, on the road towards Nathula/Tsango Lake.
Here you need to pay Rs.20 per person.

On Sundays you will get permit from M.G.Road counter only between 7am to 9.30am and 3rd Mile counter is closed on Sundays. Nathula is closed on Mondays for tourists.

Then you will get restricted area permit, which is final paper. You need to take 8-10 photocopies of this final permit. Do make photocopies in Gangtok only otherwise you will be charged heavily in mountain areas for photocopy.

These photocopies will be taken by each check post on the way. Original one will be stamped and handed over to you at each check post.

That’s it

Now back to riding story.
Anyway after getting final permit we started riding towards Mangan.

The road was beautiful with many small waterfalls and lots of greenery around.

That is Harsh riding his RE Thunder Bird on RateChhuRiverBridge at around 2.55pm.

Then I came across a broken info board, with details of places ahead with distance.

View of some scenic mountains on the way.

The wooden bridge of Dik Chhu River.

Captured this cloud and sun view on my mobile.

Reached famous seven sisters waterfalls at 3.45pm.

This waterfall comes down in seven steps hence called seven sisters waterfall.

Mangan was still 37 km away. I clicked some more scenic mountains on the way.
That river is TeestaRiver.

Some more pictures looking back from there.

A view of road.

At 5.15pm we reached Mangan. We first went to Police Station of Mangan and submitted our permit letter to SP. As District Collector(DC) office was closed he also took permit letter of DC. This SP of Mangan was also a helpful officer. He chatted with us about our ride and suggested us few hotels for night stay.

We stayed at Hotel Guddu / Guddu’s Cheng Lodge for Rs.400/= after bargain. Harsh was very good at bargain for getting hotel rooms.

Mangan is a small place with few eating options. After unloading our luggage at Hotel we filled up our petrol tank as there will be no petrol pumps after Mangan.

I had taken an extra jerry can to carry extra 5 liters of petrol. But it would be needed if we go to both Gurudongmor side and Yumthang side.

We had taken permission for Zero point, Yumthang, Yumesamdong also, but due to delay for Permitted we decided not to visit this side. We decided to visit Gurudongmor side only.

This was because if we visit Yumthang side then we will be back to Gangtok on Monday 12th of October and on Mondays Nathula is closed for tourists. I had visited Yumthang, Khatao, Zero point twice earlier. So we decided to drop it from our list and move towards Gurudongmor side only. This way we can reach Gangtok on Sunday morning on 11th October and visit Nathula on our way to Zuluk.

At around 7.15pm we searched a good place to eat our dinner. We wanted to eat roti which was not available so Harsh brought bread and toasted it himself.

This was our dinner after skipping lunch. I was too much hungry and ate all these.

I had studied this map before start of this ride at Cuttack. I am sharing that here for future traveler’s help as gives details of distance from NJP and Gangtok also.

(not my picture)

Also sharing this Lachen Tourist map, picture of which I took on 10th October at Lachen while riding back.

Both this will give you proper idea about the places ahead.

I washed my bike and put oil on chain.
Before sleeping I took bath in hot water at hotel. Mangan is at 4200 feet. I took the suggested medicines for loose motion. We also started taking half tablet of DIAMOX as we will be staying at 14000 feet on next day at Thangu. It will help us in acclimatization.

This was my ride map for the day.

Google GPS link:-

Click HERE for next update.

Coming up….next…. Ride to Thangu.

**sajalsheth** · 01-04-2016, 11:52 AM

Re: S 3 | Sohra, Sandakphu & Sikkim

Originally posted by sambit View Post

The night life seems good. The market seems like our 1 No. BBSR market.

So, I think 3 days were wasted in this trip. 1-Thunderbird issue, 2-Your health issue, 3- Permit issue.

[MENTION=32054]sambit[/MENTION] .... M.G.Road is best for roaming on foot and enjoying the weather at Gangtok. Just like BBSR maket building area.

Total 4 days wasted.
1. Thunderbird ,
2. Health issue
3. Permit issue and
4. Again while going to Zulul Permit issue

But I have to consider them as rest day or break day

**sajalsheth** · 01-08-2016, 01:22 AM

Re: S 3 | Sohra, Sandakphu & Sikkim

16. Day 14 = 9th Oct., 2015

Mangan to Thangu.

Total km traveled 95. Ride time 7.30 am to 2.00 pm.
We rode to Thangu passing by Tung, Chungthang & Lachen.

ClickHERE =& Pressto listen to soothing music in background

Today our target was to reach Thangu and visit ChoptaValley and acclimatize ourselves there as it was at 14000 feet. VisitGurudongmorLake directly is not advised as going from 4000 feet to 17000 feet in one day will not be good. Our body should acclimatize at 14000 feet, and then next day reaching 17000+ feet will create fewer problems at 17000 feet for us.

We got us early and were ready to leave at 6.40am after light breakfast. I wore Gum boots today as we had to cross mud and water streams ahead.

But a surprise was waiting for us. It was second puncture on rear tyre for this trip.
First one was at Burdwan, West Bengal on day 2 of the ride on 27th September.
Both flat tyres were on rear wheel only.

But on next building to Guddu’s Lodge there is one mechanic garage. Two brothers run this garage. One of them stays on basement of Lodge only. As his garage was not open as it was too early. We inquired and called him and requested to patch it.

I was having puncture kit in my luggage but I felt lazy to untie all the luggage again as the kit was in bottom of the claw bag. My chain was also loose, that also was to be repaired.

At 7.30am we were ready to leave. We were told that there was a big land slide near Tung few days before, so road will be slippery there. A View of this snow capped mountain at 7.45am.

After that mechanic’s tightening of chain, my bike was not running smoothly as it was running before. But there was no other option but to ride bike in that condition only.
There were many small waterfalls on the way, a prominent one on the way.

A Bridge on LachungRiver and the Toong/Tung check post is there just after it.

We showed our Restricted Area Permit and registered ourselves and gave a photocopy of Permit. An info board opposite that Tung/ Toong Check Post, showing road condition and distance of places ahead. It was 8.45am then.

The road towards Chungthang was scenic one with LachungRiver on right side.

The road with big cut rocks.

Roads with bridges and water streams.

A bridge with iron sheets and wood log.

At 9.35am we stopped to see a waterfall coming from a good height from a mountain.

We took some rest there.

A view of water stream on the way.

After crossing Chungthang, there was ascending mainly. Two roads are there ahead of Chungthag village. There is a right one toward Yumthang. And Thangu and Lachen are on left side road.

A view of a small village and mountains looking back.

Saw another waterfall with full force water coming down at 10.15am.

The bridge on that waterfall’s stream.

After taking this picture I came towards my bike and saw a butterfly sitting on my luggage’s cover.

Perhaps the butterfly was thinking that the smell and taste of the dust on that luggage dust cover is from Odisha and not from Sikkim!

At 10.30am saw another waterfall.

Some views on the way….

I could se a small village on the mountain ahead.

Then we crossed a road full of water.

It reminded me to my solo Zanskar ride, where I had to cross many water streams….some wild ones also.

A view of village houses.

At 10.45am saw another waterfall.

Some views on the way.

At 11.30am stopped to see ZemuChuRiver.

Again stopped after 10 minutes to see the view of road I rode.

And the mountains I left behind.

At 11.50am stopped again and took some rest after constantly riding on ascend.

There were some army trucks on the road then. I asked on of them to click for me.

View of small hut on mountain.

View of mountains on the way.

The road was semi off road with lots of dust on road. It will be difficult to ride on such road when it rains.

Some scenic mounts with clouds.

That is Lachen River again.

This road I rode.

And zoom view of the LachenRiver, which was making lots of sound. Of course very pleasant to hear.

View looking back on that dusty road at 12.35pm.

Crossing that river again.

And view of other side.

At 12.55pm saw a helipad on left side of road. We were nearing Thangu.

I could see some army housed ahead.

There were lots of thick clouds on those mountains ahead.

At 1.15pm, I was nearing an army base.

I moved ahead and again stopped to see this river and bridge.

View with bridge was scenic one.

At 2.00pm we reached Thangu at 14000 feet. Weather was very cold there. We search for place to stay. There are only home stays there.
I saw a home stay with small parking. An old couple is owner of that. They have rooms on 1st floor. I went to see room suitable to us.

Suddenly I felt pressure of loose motion and requested them to use toilet as it was very urgent. We had skipped lunch, but then also my health was giving problem. I used to take suggested medicine on time, but was not giving me full relief.
We bargained for the room rent, and final rent was Rs.600 for a double bedroom with attached toilet.

View from our home stay.

After unloading luggage we went to show our Permit papers at police station of Thangu.
This is the view of that home stay.

And our parked vehicles there.

Some pictures of Thangu village and around.
View towards Lachen side road.

View towards GurudongmorLake side road.

There were so many prayer flags in the Thangu village.

Even the mountain was full of prayer flags.

View of starting point of Chopta Valley.

Then we went to sleep for some time as there was too much cold and our body need to acclimatize.
At 5pm we went inside the kitchen cum dinning room of that home stay. The fire was burning at kitchen and we just sit there to have some relief from cold weather.

That’s Harsh

This is SAJAL (me !)

View of sitting area cum dining space of that home stay.

View of kitchen of that home stay.

Our savior from cold weather ….. FIRE.

And yes…there is no electricity in ThanguVillage.
At 7.00pm we took our dinner. This is the “drink” of that old man of the home stay. He said this drink gives relief from cold weather.

A picture of owners of that home stay.

I took the suggested medicines for loose motion. We also took half tablet of DIAMOX as we will be going at 17000 feet on next day. It will help us in acclimatization.
We went to sleep early dreaming about GurudongmorLake.

This was my ride map for the day.

Google GPS link:-

Click HERE for next update.

Coming up….next…. Ride to Gurudongmor Lake, Cho Lhamo Lake & view of Donkhia La Pass.

**bobisbacktorock** · 01-08-2016, 05:51 PM

Re: S 3 | Sohra, Sandakphu & Sikkim

Amazing Travelog there... I almost had a trip to Sandakphu & Sikkim sitting at my office.

The route that you are covering was the ride plan of 2015 for me & my friend, unfortunately we both got caught up with career & responsibilities.

But your pics & write up has lit up that fire in me again. I hope I do it in 2016 .... waiting since long to do Sandakphu & Sikkim on bike.

Breath taking pictures and straight & to the point write up with more than sufficient details. Every small details you have provided will be of great help to me

Following this thread

RESPECT for you sir.

**sajalsheth** · 01-09-2016, 11:48 PM

Re: S 3 | Sohra, Sandakphu & Sikkim

Originally posted by bobisbacktorock View Post

Amazing Travelog there... I almost had a trip to Sandakphu & Sikkim sitting at my office.

The route that you are covering was the ride plan of 2015 for me & my friend, unfortunately we both got caught up with career & responsibilities.

But your pics & write up has lit up that fire in me again. I hope I do it in 2016 .... waiting since long to do Sandakphu & Sikkim on bike.

Breath taking pictures and straight & to the point write up with more than sufficient details. Every small details you have provided will be of great help to me

Following this thread

RESPECT for you sir.

Thank you @bobisbacktorock ji ,

It is possible for many to ride to Sikkim, but Sandakphu motorbike ride is for chosen few only.

May God give you courage and wish you all the best for Sikkim & Sandakphu ride in 2016.

**sajalsheth** · 01-11-2016, 01:34 AM

Re: S 3 | Sohra, Sandakphu &amp; Sikkim

17. Day 15 = 10th Oct., 2015

Thangu –Gurudongmar – Tso Lhamo- Mangan.

Total km traveled 176. Ride time 5.50 am to 6.00 pm.
We rode to Gurudongmar Lake, Tso Lhamo Lake & went down to Mangan.

ClickHERE =& Press to listen to soothing music in background

Today was the d-day. I was going to achieve another dream of mine….to visit Gurudongmar Lake. Posing with Gurudongmar picture at Mumbai Airport in March, 2015 will became a reality in October, 2015.

We did not take bath and used hot water for all other daily routine. We knew that we have to back by 12pm at last army check post after visiting Gurudongmar Lake. We left our entire luggage at home stay and took water bottle, camera pouch and mobile (No signal at Thangu & onwards). At 5.50am we left our Thangu home stay & started our ride in cold weather. Gurudongmar Lake is 33 km from Thangu.

At 6.00am Crossed Chopta Valley.

At 6.10 am we reached an army area.

Our riding gloves were unable to protect us from this extreme cold. Heat of silencer of RE bike also was not of any help. We stopped at an army canteen and purchased winter gloves from there. We had hot water and then we were riding in misty weather.

That is Harsh riding RE with green army winter gloves.

Water on road had become ice due to extreme cold weather.

The road was a dusty off road and barren area.

But there was a road construction unit nearby and road construction work was going on.

The landscape had changed from green to barren.

Instead of green, now we could see blue and brown only.

Moving ahead we saw another army settlement at 7.00am.

Landscape was different going ahead.

Some Army men were doing morning walk and jogging. We had a little chitchat with them and requested them to click one picture of ours.

The landscape and road condition reminded me of Ladakh.

It was fund to crack the ice and ride on it.

This was the last army check post with water steam flowing on one side.

And with snow capped mountains on the other side.

We ordered breakfast and tea/coffee. We also had hot water to drink. Today morning we forgot to take half diamox tablet. And effect of not taking it was on Harsh at Gurudongmar Lake at 17100 feet. There was a hot burner there, it was a great relief to sit near it.

It was 7.25am and sun rays were falling on road also, but we preferred sitting near hot burner. That is Harsh.

And this is myself at the dining area with lots of painting on wall.

There was a picture of Gurudongmar Lake there and some important information about that lake. We were only 16 km away from the Lake.

After crossing last check post the road is new one and a very best road of entire Mangan to Gurudongmar road patch.

The landscape had turned huge with vast view. This is left side view towards China side.

And this is right side view.

The road ahead looked like this.

There was light and shadow show due to cloud’s shadow on vast mountains. Can you see some houses on both corner of mountain? Crossing this will take you to China India border.

Riding ahead we saw this small lake on right side at 7.50am. Perhaps it is Sugu Cho.

View behind.

View ahead.

There was a big snow capped mountain on right side. And see the luggage on my bike…only two water bottles.

A zoom view of that tall mountain.

Riding ahead saw another vast mountain with many off road on it. All these roads are army roads which takes them to Indo China Border which may be three or four km from here. Can you see several black spots? Those are yaks grazing.

Shadow on vast mountains was giving an amazing view.

This was because there was nice sun light and some clouds on sky.

A truck was coming from behind with some construction workers. It means new road must be under construction ahead somewhere. This was first signal from God to me, which I understood later.

These are those yaks grazing which are nearer now. And behind you can see a military truck guarding the border off road to Indo China Border.

Another view.

View behind.

View from my left.

View ahead.

That small stone boundary area is for yaks near house of nomads.

Some close up views of a huge snow capped mountain which was shining due to sunlight.

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Gurudongma rLake road is very near to Indo-China Border. So military presence and other infrastructure is must there.
Riding little ahead saw a Helipad on left side.

View of road ahead from there.

View of road I rode. I was getting great view due to good sunlight and shadow of clouds on mountains.

At 8.10 am I stopped again to drink water as it was needed for acclimatization. It is advisable to increase water intake as you are on high altitude. View of road I rode.

View of heavenly road ahead. I was riding at speed of 60+ on those nice new roads.

At 8.15 am, I saw an info board showing Gurudongmar Lake’s diversion.

This Google map picture shows that the straight road goes to military area and another road just before military area goes to Dongkha La (5th highest mountain pass of the world) and Tso Lhamo Lake (Highest Lake of India). So if you ride another 8 km then you can reach to Highest Lake of India, Tso Lhamo Lake.

This off road towards right goes to Gurudongmar Lake. But if you go straight you will reach restricted military area.

A scenic view behind from there.

There was a small lake on left side ahead.

A view of mountains with some roads on it, on the right side ahead.

At 8.25am I had reached Gurudongmar Lake.

View of glacier there. It is Gurudongmar East & Gurudongmar West peak at 22000 feet. There are another mountain peaks nearby known as Chombu peak and Sanglaphu peak at 20500 feet.

View of a big mountain near it on right side.

View of pristine Gurudongmar Lake with a path for ‘parikrama’.

View of mountain on left side with some prayer flags below.

This lake is sacred lake and Guru Padmasambhava had visited this in 8th century AD.

View on my back side. Prayer flags were everywhere.

And there is an info board showing details of this holy lake.

This was written in second last paragraph “This sacred Lake is said to have divine powers to fulfill the wishes of devotees who visit the Lake”. This was second signal from God to me. This also I understood after 90 minutes only.

This is a Sarwa Dharma Sthal means temple place for all religions. There is a Gurudwara there. Guru Nanak had also visited this place.

Many visitors offer prayers here.

A picture of mine near Gurudwara.

Some Buddhist Monks were also praying there.

This is me and Harsh at Gurudongmar Lake and we rode from Cuttack, Odisha to here on our motorbike. It was an achievement for us.

And yet another mission of mine was accomplished at Gurudongmar Lake.

It was 8.55am and I had one empty water bottle, in which I wanted to take back holy water of Gurudongmar Sagar Lake. There is a staircase going down to the Lake on right side. I went down and filled up the holy water of the lake for my family. It is said that many carry the water of this lake but lost the water while coming back to Thangu. Only if God wishes then only you can take back water from here.

There was a small ‘parikrama’ passage near the Lake.

Some tourists were placing stones on Lake’s bank as a prayer. I also did that.

A view of Gurudongmar East & West peak with the lake.

I wanted to take a picture of mine with all the mountains near the lake, as was there in MumbaiAirport picture. But without panoramic mode it looked like this.

Harsh took this panoramic mode picture on my mobile with all the mountains near Gurudongmar Lake.

And a dream was fulfilled.

Sudden we saw our bikes parked there were getting too much attention.

Those Buddhist Monks were sitting on our bikes and were clicking pictures on mobiles and tabs.

A monk on Harsh’s RE Thunder Bird.

Another monk posing with my Pulsar 200NS.

I thought that we all love motorbikes and love to click pictures with it on such important and rare places. But very few could take trouble to ride such a long distance to achieve this.

But we rode 3000 kms (2997 kms exactly) to reach Gurudongmar Lake and then clicking pictures with bike has its own joy and fulfillment. It is something that all cannot do. This was our 15th day since we left our home for this ride.

It was 9.15 am then. Vehicles with tourists had all left. Only one vehicle was there carrying tourists. There was calm & peace there. Wind was moving very fast and clouds were also moving.

I could see the Gurudongmar East & West peak with glacier more clearly.

No tourists were there near Gurudwara.

Only my bike was parked near Gurudongmar Lake’s bank. I could feel some special and abnormal weather. Some kind of peace was there… & it was very divine. Atmosphere was heavenly.

I took some HDR pictures there.

It was 9.25 am and I decided to leave this heavenly lake. You must have marked in earlier pictures that my bike was parked with back on Gurudwara side. I tied the Bottle with holy water properly and was ready to leave.

But to my surprise bike was not starting. I had taken this bike to Marsimik La, Ladakh at 18953 feet (HighestPass of the World). But there also it did not give any starting trouble with very less oxygen at that level. I tried a lot but no result. I used choke but then also it did not start. I wasted some time in trying one thing or other, but got no result.

The driver of the last tourist vehicle came to me and said that he can push the bike and it can be push started in second gear. I said only if battery is dead or low then this trick will work. He then told to me that my bike and I was showing our back towards Gurudwara and it might not be starting for that. I laughed and said that ok I will change the position also. I changed my bike’s direction and suddenly it started! What is this? I was really surprised.

But it was a third signal from God to me, which I could only understand after half an hour.

I started riding on descend on that off road. When I was nearing the new tar road, I saw a biker on right side, trying to start his Bullet. This was forth and final signal from God to me.

A thought came to mind, that this rider must be going to Tso Lhamo Lake. I rode towards him after reaching the main road. I asked him that if he was riding to Tso Lhamo? I thought that his bike was having Sikkim number plate and he could have managed getting permission to visit it. He said that he is going to Tso Lhamo only. I said I will join you. He said that you don’t have permission and there will be army check post and they will stop you riding further.

I said still I want to ride with you, if they stop me I will ride back. But I want to try at least. So he said he is riding with another three riders and they have gone ahead.

And he gave me positive reply. His bike also started and I started riding with him with an unknown fear & excitement in mind.

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