i have seen it but cant believe it
you are a crazy rider

Deep in my mind I realize that I won't be able to do such a trip in my lifetime to match yours and that feeling is what invokes a great feeling of respect in me for you.

You are a legend Praveen... I bow before you in honour... Long Live Praveen.. Ride Long and Ride Safe and just keep on riding....

It isn't strange at all man. Please give us the full details. Doesn't matter if you were on foot or bike. This is one helluva life changing ride of a lifetime!

Thanks Prabhu and moeed

the_iceman: Glad to hear from you Abhimanyu. Your ride was surely and inspiration to this one.
Not really thinking much ahead. Its been fine so far. The blogging thingy is keeping me so busy that i hardly have time to feel lonly. I dont even have time to watch movies in my laptop.
Sure will meet up if i can make it till Delhil.

vikram: thinking of pokhra and then varanasi...

thanks blisteringintelligence.

Nothing like that raghavishere, just that pen it down makes it visible..

sam: even i cant believe it

thanks for the words Nio. But you never know when you take on somethings which you never dreamed of..

silver_falcon: ok then incoming posts

Day 80 - May 27 - Mt Everest Spotted!

May27 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail: GPS Trip Sharing with Google Maps

Disappointed by the last two days weather and was just back to 1 day to leave. Thought would give the Everest view hotel one more try if weather clears up. Wake up at 5 am and its looks dull. Get back to my bed thinking cant see Everest. Wake up 6am and its all clear. For the first time i see all the peaks around Namche. Get ready in a jiffy and head out. But first have to fill up the tummy a bit if i wanna trek till Everest View hotel. Get into a conversation with the hotel owner, who tells me that can see Everest from just above Namche town from Army camp. He was right alright. And yes i see the Mt Everest for the first time. Just the top of it rising above Nuptse ridge. Few clicks. Got a great view of Mt Amadablam as well. Pretty exited about the clear weather, decide to trek up to Everest view hotel any way for bettor view.

As i climb up, see people going towards Tengboche and felt a pang. Then the mist races me from below and covering all the mountains in a hurry! Half way up wanted go any way atleast to have breakfast. But the mist clears up. Do we have a good view? The whole sky is clear except for a cloud covering just the Mt Everest. Good that i went to the army camp and saw before coming here. Got pictures of the other mountains around. Mt Amadablam looked stunning. Spent quite some time there only to see gradually clouds covering the mountains. Now with the trek back was in no mood to start back. Thought would spend the day logging and make a push to Lukla the next day.

But with all the people i had been meeting, all of them were headed up to Base camp. That gets me real tempted. That will be way out side my physical abilities. Spend the after noon wavering between the thoughts of heading back and going up. Get some cash, small shopping just in case i decide to go up. Not at all sure as to what i will do. Night i deciced let me head back as i am not a trekker and i got what i wanted here, a view of Mt Everest.

Mt Themserku in the morning above Namche....


Misty morning at Namche...


But the skies clear out to real the truth around Namche....


Walk up to the army camp and yes Saw the Mt Everest for the first time... Can you see it there?


Now its zoomed....


Mt Amadablam


The next 7 pictures is a panorama actually...




















Namche Bazar from above...


Lil misty getting upto the Everest view hotel again...


The path to the hotel...


This is rediculos can see Manjo from here! and i thought it was very far after all the walk i did...


Mist racing ahead of us while we make it to the hotel...


Its cloudy now. That's Misaki and Mitsu from Japan...


Me with Amadablam in the back ground...





A cloud just in front or Mt Everest!!


Amadablam is generous...


Mt Kumbiula on the other side...


Me on the way back to Namche...


Some menu of the place!


The climb down...

Day 81 - May 28 - NamcheBazar to Tengboche

May28 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail: GPS Trip Sharing with Google Maps

Got up and the weather looked clear and kinda decided to head up. Since my back was complaining the last few days, thought this would be a 'Productive break' from riding. Hmmm... i liked the term 'Productive Break' Gave the air ticket to the hotel owner so that he could send it to lukla and make it open ticket. Now with the sense of excitement of going to the unknown place start towards Tengboche. The weather is not looking so good. This dampens my spirits and kinda start of think should i head back etc. Then i meet this very swift old man coming and says he had to come back from Lobuche cos of the snow after that place. He walks past at a real good pace and prolly can reach Lukla the same day. Any way this starts the war in me as to head back or continue. I mean i am not into trekking, these people have come for this and will go ahead no matter what. While have see Everest now, and have a long ride planed ahead. Its too much i just stop there for few mins thinking about the decision. The decision making was so freaking that i kinda wanted to jump down the cliff rather Then what do you know i kinda started back. IT started raining and i stop to put on rain gear. The war's still going in mind. Then santosh and his client showed up and kinda told about my dilemma and they give a positive suggestion that i should atleast try till Tengboche, coming till here. I kinda take that as positive suggestion and i walk towards Tengboche!! In about half an hour i am in peace with my decision and concentrate on the trek ahead.

First it kinda descends down the river in the valley. Talk to each person coming about the conditions up there, got to know that many walked back in snow and one group had to return from Gorak shep cos it snowed out. But other said that it can get bettor if there's two days of clear weather. I even meet Cornal Masood who summited Mt Everest!! He encouraged not to worry about weather and carry on. After i crossed over the bridge across the river, the path goes up and up with never ending switch backs. As the previous days one bky one groups pass me while i take it slow. Meet Mitsu and Misaki from Japan who are heading up. They go ahead too. Since this is the end of the season, not many go up and i see all these many people coming down after their touch at the Base camp. Man i knew its going to be long few days ahead if i decide to go all the way. Take plenty of breaks, the weather kinda clears up. Thinking about solo travel. Cos atleast on bike one is quite busy but with trekking its kinda different as you have to talk to yourself. But then i was very slow and cant really keepup with some group if i join them. The climbs go on and on and take break at one place. See a porter who says its just 2 mins up. Really? so soon its just 1.15 PM. Well i am there and get into the Himalayan view lodge. And another good view of the entire mountain range even Mt Everest. Have good company at the with the Japanese duo and a young group of Singapore dude and dudets who have come to climb The Island peak! Met them a couple of days earlier too. Checked out the Tengboche monastery. This small settlement of a few hotels even had a cyber cafe which was closed for the season.

It was a nice even spent around the room heater with the all the people, jokes and laughter flow till like post dinner. I kinda start to feel a bit dizzy, prolly an effect of altitude. But looks like i am good to go the next day one level up.

The path towards Tengboche....





Handi crafts and a naughty kid....


The path roughens....


Cross the bridge before the impending climb....


It goes only one way... up...


Some flowering trees...


The valley i have come from....


More rough climb up....


Me there...


Finally get to Tengboche...


The monastery there....


Looks like a pretty nice place...


I check out the monastery...


Mt Everest reveals itself again...


We see these signs in the rooms through out the trek now... cos room rent is just 50-100 rupees and they make money from the expensive food...


The monastery...








Inside....





Its got a cyber cafe as well but closed for off season...


Caught this guy flying around the place...


Me with the climbing group from singapore, people from japan and Nepal. Thats a international huddle to share the warmth from the stove...


Vertical travel for the day....

Day 82 - May 29 - Tengboche to Dingboche

May29 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail: Geotagging Community

Absolutely no sleep at all. All night i was cursing the cold, the blanket, the pillow but in the morning i found out that i was feeling out of breath and so no sleep. Dont feel as good as previous day. Breathing is an issue now. Thought it would get alright on the way. Pretty clear weather today as well, took quite some pictures of the mountains around. I start early so that i will know that aleast there are some people on the way. Have hot lemon at Deboche and thats good, it kinda reduced the AMS symptoms atleast for some time. Get back to the walk and i see only Misaki, Mitsu has gone back it seems as he kinda got sick the previous night. Man what do you know might be my turn today. Continue now with Misaki and her guide Skukh. We are taking it slowly. But seem to be slightly faster then them and keep to my speed.

As we crossed a bridge and started climbing on the other side, a man in T's and shorts runs down past us!! Then i realize that today was Everest marathon and people run down from Everest base camp to Namche bazar and some make it in three hourse it seems! It was hardly like 8.30 and this guy is already near Tengboche starting from EBC the same morning. Then in a few mins see one more guys and later as the time increases the frequency of runners i see increase. Boy do these peole have stamina. Keep seeing marathon runners through out the day. Saw a couple of female runners too. Then few Westerners. I am hungry and stop at Pangboche for lunch in the neat reastraunt with great view. The breathing is getting harder. Hot lemon first on the order. It was getting really hard. For some reason i felt i was doing quite well and was walking faster as well. Felt my walking has improved a lot. After lunch at pangboche hike up to the next town Somaru, where i find Misaki and the singapore group having lunch. Must have been doing much faster then before but i really should have taken it a bit slow. I still see Marathon runners. I was shocked to find an old European lady still running! She wanted help in setting her waist pouch's belt right. she was so impatient and so much into the Marathon that, she was like quick quick i got to be runnin! Man and i was cribbing about the walk.

Now we start to walk above the tree line. The space around just opens. see lot many people coming down then going up. Felt like if only i was on my way back of the trip. Man thats not a way to look forward to the trip. But its the monsoon coming tough weather and flights back to Kathmandu to lukla get more unreliable as the wether gets bad. But alteast for today i am heading to Dingboche. The ambiance around just feels great. I feel like i am doing great. It goes on and on and on and its be three that we make it to Dingboche and the singapore groups guide shows me the way to the lodge. Surpriced to see Jason and Ashley there who came in a day earlier and were acclimatizing. I get to my room and lie and thats when i realize i am not doing good at all. I must have pushed bit hard but was really slow at the same time. I felt chocked, my stomach started cramping up and felt suffocated. Felt like trapped. As unlike Tengboche u cant loose altitude from here quicly. Its a long walk down. At one point felt like i am gonna die here! The AMS had hit me pretty badly. Could not even have food. It just would not go in!! The group give me paracetamol which kinda helps a bit but i am still not very comfortable. Go to bed uncertain as to what would happen to me tomm!!

Themserku in the morning...


The mountains around clearly visible again...





Prayer happening inside the Tengboche monastery...





Mt Everest again...


Amadablam...





Now some yellow mountains!! Actuall shot these with my polorised goggles in front of the cam lense...





Me there...


The climber troop...


Mt Everest and Nuptse...


The Everest view hotel on the other side....


Everest visible from my room!!


Path going down to Deboche...


Amadablam... keep seeying it all the way today...


The path going down...


Cross the river before the climb to Pangboche...


High foot bridge...


And now we climb...





Then one by one the Marathon runners whizz past us down...


Tengboche town we left behind...


More marathon runners show up...


Road blocks...


Even some female runners too!!


Lunch in this neat restraunt...


Path going above the tree line...











Have to get to the opposite mountain...


Rock slides...


Rough path...


Was scary to walk on unstable ground... looked like land slides are common here...


Thats me...


The singapore team approaching...


Finally see the Dingboche town...


Vertical travel for the day...

Day 83 - May 30 - In Dingboche

May30 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail: GPS Trip Sharing with Google Maps

Seemed like i had a decent sleep. My breathing is bettor and i have this great view of clear mountain from my window. Thought it was Ama dablam but was Mt Taboche actually. Cajole myself out of the bed. I feel week. But i had to get the pictures of the beautiful mountains around. Had soup and see all the people leave for the next level. That gets very depressing being all alone in the hotel where no phone call, no TV, and nothing around. Had a poridge which i almost finist. Good something is going down the throat. Just sit around in the Glass house feeling the warmth. Felt like a day and but was just 10 am. Had enough. Was suggested to hike up till the Snow line on the mountains and come back. which would help in acclimatizing. Get my things and off to the hike. Really? though week, i feel the springs in my feet thinking about the hike to snowline!! Sounds good isnt it hiking to the Snow line. Get to the Stupa which i can see and there is not really any paths. Just straight climb up the mountain. But things here look quite nearer than they actually are. I was supposed to take the accent slowly, but i see clouds engulfing the valley and i have seen how quickly weather changes here. I bettor hurry up. Push my self up and prolly much faster than i should but couldnt help. Ond more climb and i am at the snow line. Pretty slippery up there with the clear sun melting it away. It was amazing view from up there. Could the see the valley we traveled yesterday and also the valley which i would be walkking tomm that is if i am ok. Gained an additional 650 meters of altitude in the climb from Dinboche. By now i have run out the bottle of water i brought and i am also feeling hungry. Man i hate exherting when hungry eats into the reserves u see. But i had no choice and had to come donw any way. Its a long way down. Its much faster than going up but still takes like 30 mins compared to 1.5 hours of climb. Get into another lodge as the previous one i stayed was closing down for the season. And i see a group here for the day. Great i am not the lone guy hiking up to Lobuche tomm. few of them had trekked to snow line as well and walked at that level till chukung to see the glaciar. But i was pretty broken with the hike i had. Hope i dint push myself too much and will be ok by tomm. Tough three days ahead if i am walking up. Lets see how it goes.

Mt Toboche for the wake up view. Kinda thought it was Amadablam...


Taboche...


Mt Amadablam looks so different from its side...


Then i climb up ...


Can see the whole town...


Going all the way till snow line...


Me posing with the way towards lobuche in the back ground...


They pile the stones like this...


Going straight up...


Leaving the town way below.... can see the whole valley now...


Finally i am above the snow line...


Tempted to go up but i have run out of water... and i am tired...


The poser...


Fantastic views from up there...











Get back the wrong way and there is no path just end up jumping from compound to compound!!


Yup! i been all the way up and is cloudy now where i was...


A well earned meal...


The evening at the dining room with the stove on... those are solar heaters lying around...


The acclimatization hike i did...

Day 84 - May 31 - Dingboche to Lobuche

May31 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail: Share GPS Tracks

It snow time today. The weather looks pretty bad and at the altitude we are on it does not rain but snows. I had my doubts, but the group with no second thoughts geared up for the snow trek for the day. The groups guide Gailu suggested to stick with the group as the visibility was very lil and i may get lost. In snow some times it gets confusing to the guides themselves sometimes it seems. Well thats a great idea and walk with the group with skepticism as they had passed me the previous day. The group was kinda fast for me. With ever step we gradually gain the altitude and the breathing is harder. Nothing much to see around but the snow and the colorful rain gear people around wearing. We walk in the never ending snow blizzard in a line and reach Dukla in good 2 hours. I had really pushed myself with out my usual many resting stops, to keep up with the group. Every step was a battle for oxigen and the lungs working more harder.

After a food break at Dukla, its a climb now, supposed be the toughest climb in the route where you gain like 400 meters in a short time. It was on nothing but rocks. Now we climb among more and more snow and we are forced to put the goggles on. It was very bright and reflecting even if the sun was not visible! That was one tough work and hoped did not have to come back down after all this without going all the way. Could only imagine how snowed out the places near Gorakshep would be. After the climb its a couple of kms of gradual incline walk till Lobuche. By now i was exhausted and could not keep up with the group and let them go. It took my stops. It all looked fine if i am sitting but the moment i walk i had no energy at all. Did not feel tired of pain but just the as if the battery is dying. I sit there and looking ahead and behind with no body around and wondering what am i getting my self into or already have! pull out a snikker bar and hoped to get some energy. But there is no choice as well. Now i really start motivating myself saying stuff like 'you can make it' etc etc. After half an hour i see the Lobuche settlement to the left and boy am i relieved. I know its just the beginning. Not sure how i will react to the additional altitude gain. The Daimox which i started only a day back may not help. I was hungry for now and wanted to have food quickly before the stomach starts acting up like in Dingboche.

It was still snowing around most of the day. After lunch we were suggested to hike a 100 meters up the mountains beside the hotel, which would help in acclimatizing and sleep for the day. Though tired acclimatization takes priority and i join the people who are going on the hike. Again like in Dingboche it was a climb straight up. Couple of their porter sherpas run out to join us just in case we get lost. Haans the big man brings Henry's Altimeter so that we could track the altitude gain. After like 80 meters we hit the snow line and it was bit slippery with the mix of snow and mossy plants and soil. It felt it was a bit hairy as if we roll down we roll all the way as there was nothing to break the fall. Now i started using hands and envied the people who had brought the hiking sticks along. After spending few mins up there was time to get down. But now so easy, getting down seemed very very tricky and except a couple of people and the sherpas, rest including me were worried of rolling down. It was damn slippery. sissi the doc was having real trouble walking down. I let the gloves get wet and take support from hands to negotiate my way down. After the snow line traction improved. Either snow or no snow is ok but with patches of snow on the soil it get tricky. Everyone makes it down safely and breath a sigh relief.

There's really nothing to do around here. All the people just gather around the fire stove for warmth in the dining hall and while away time. Battery charging is expensive like 350 Rs per hour! So my laptop runs out of power and becomes a dead weight now. Can save on spending from charging the camera batteries. We have early dinner like 7.30 and Gailu the guide call every out. What do we have here? A clear sky with start visible and all the mountains around too! Thats a good sign for tomm's trek weather. Try some night photography and now have a tough task of finding sleep. Man cant believe i made it this far and yup just one more day to the Base camp!

The walk in the snow fall begins...








The snow fall is unrelenting...





Its just misty and white every where....


Leave my foot print in the snow....





My back pack as collected enough snow....


Ed pretty tired of the walk...


How does one find the path here...


Getting down to cross the river....


The very basic bridge....


The hotel in Dukla...


Still snowing outside...





The final dreaded climb to Lobuche...





We take break many times...


Step by step we make it to the top...


Me there...


Its me not a rock


The troop relaxing...


Have to walk this valley for some time now...


Somebody lives here!!


This is after i let go the group and just alone staring into nothing ness...


Make it to the Lobuche town...


In the warm dining hall...


The acclimatization hike up to gain atleast 100 meters...





We leave the town below soon...


Great view around...


The porter has made a snow man for us...


Some night photgraphy... Unedited... could see stars in the preview of the cam!!

Day 85 - June 1 - Lobuche 2 GorakShep 2 Everest Base Camp

June01 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail: Travel Community

What a shitty night literally. The most horrible night every that i can remember. Of all the hotels the bend and blankets here were dusty. It was below freezing thanks to the snow storm in the previous night. By night the altitude started showing its effect and was breathing harder and harder. Could feel the diaphragm cramped with over work. But it cant really stop and rest can it? Getting in side the blanket will require warming it. This gets the body to shiver and that requires more harder breathing. Hardly any sleep and added to that got dhairia. So have to get out of the bed several times and go through the same painful exercise. For the second time i thought would die that night Seemed like never ending torcher and was running through all the emotions. Kind settle only by 4 am.

Up by 5.30. You kinda tend to freeze thinking what to do. Any thing i touch is freezing giving me shivers. Out the blanket and all the packing activities means more and more cold. Manage to ready myself and get to the warmer dining room for breakfast. And it hits me, today is the day of Mt Everest Base camp and the weather outside looks just perfect. Go out ad wat a panorama around the town. White covered mountains all around and clear vivid blue sky and bright sunshine. Its supposed to be only couple of hours walk till Gorak shep rest for food and Head to Mt Everest base camp the same day.

Every body out and the slow hike to the ultimate begins. After the troubling night everything feels nice now. Seemed to have kinda acclimatized for the height. Sunblock cream and goggles are must as there is nothing much between the sun and us. Trekking with motorcycle jacket is a bad idea. I am sweating inside and if i remove it, i freeze! Its going to be climb again though gradual but ever increasing altitude. Its not smooth as well. First for some time we walk in a riverbed valley kinda place with high walls on either side. Pass Misaki who was taking it real slow. Even meet a group of four elderly men from India on the same itinerary. We reach the end the valley for a climb.

Yes its a fight for oxygen every step and need the self motivation again. Just asking myself 24 hours as after that its all going down and life is supposed to be easy. After a could of climbs its hits us. We are walking by the side of the Khumbu Glacier. This is the first glacier i have seen in my life and boy was it a good one, emerging out of the Nuptse mountain ice fall. It was a fantastic sight and was blindingly bright as well. Whites and whites every where. I meet Dheeraj on his way back. had to brave the bad weather to base camp and had decided to skip kalapattar! After a bit of photo session i let the group go ahead and take my own slow pace. At one of the resting stops, Jason, Ashley, Casey and Brady pass by on thier way back. Pretty happy to see each other. They had to do the base camp in the bad weather yesterday but had the clear weather for Kalapattar today. Wished luck continued. Walk slowly and reach Gorekshep and get into the Buddha lodge. Some food and rest and its time for the ultimate destination for the trek. Could see the Mt Everest tip jutting out of the Nuptse ridge.

We start off and cant believe i am actually walking towards the Mt Everest base camp! Not really easy though. Was a strange terrain to walk on. The whole group takes it slow taking plenty of rests and pic stops. Good for me. The khumbu glacier was just so beautiful. The Vista around was stunning and all the effort seemed worth it. Base camp is not a place of viewing Mt Everest as we only get to see the tip of it. All the while we see porters taking things like chairs and stuff out of the place. The Base camp is wrapping up for the season. Many places have to walk through rock fall zones. The Guide tells every one to keep moving. Could see many small rocks rolling every now and then. There were some potential big rocks too that could roll down any time. We are told that every year there is a new walking trail to the Base camp due to the rock falls. Yeah the path did not seem old as well, were walking on just stones some places. Could see some yellow tents and we are close. Before we realize we are there. Yes the 'there', the Base camp of Mt Everest. There were a bunch of big stones around with camps are setup. Just that the tents were gone for the season. But we made it. I made it too! thanks to the group, else would not know if i could have gotten till here alone. Its seem so unreal that of all the people me who never treks thinking i cant trek, made it to the Base camp. It was an Euphoric moment for all. Pix, chocolates, congrats etc flowed. Then Gailu suggests we walk down to the Glacier. Wow that sounds nice. Its a lot of effort but the adrenalin was taking care of it. Now walking on snow make our way into the glacier and it was fantastic out there. Could see many stalactites made of ice. Thin and couple of meters tall. Walls of ice and it was some snow ball play and pix session in the glaciar. Some of the porters take of their shirts and jump into the snow. Man these shepas are tough.

Well things dont last we have to get back. By now i am hungry! Damn have to do the couple of hours walk back in empty stomach eating into the energy reserves. Ohh man hope that i can recover after this enough for the next day's Kala pattar accent. Slowly we make our way back. Again asking myself just 20 hours so that it will be fine after that. This time the rock falls scares every one as we see small rocks tumbling down ahead and behind us. We were told not to stop or rest and just continued out of the rock fall zone to breath a sigh relief. Thats a Mission accomplished for operation Base camp. Get back to the hotel and congratulate each other. I was really tired and felt week. Gulped couple of hot lemon cups with lot of suger to replenish the energy and every finished a plate of veg momos in a hurry. Atleast the appetite is going good. Then what else huddle around the fire stove in the dining room and while away the evening. It was comfortable at the altitude i guess because we trekked all the way to Base camp and back down so were acclimatized. Its funny that in low altitude treks people take sufficient rest and here, as we gain altitude we are supposed to be more active! The next day's accent to Kalapatter is scheduled at 4am!! Many people drop out being happy with reaching base camp, knee problems etc. But we are going. The enthusiastic elderly Haans, a few people and what do you know me too! Having braved all this i am going to give it all tomm come what may i thought. Just hoped the weather would be good. Cos if its even a lil misty, its a waste going up Kalapattar, cos we cant see Mt Everest which is still like 3 KMs up!! Before the bed time we see mountains, clear sky, stars which is a sign of good morning the next day.


Morning look around Lobuche town...





One cold chair...


Perfectly prepared for us...


We hike towards Gorak Shep...





Path not so smooth but still feels great...





Have to climb up towards Ponmuri now...


The valley we walked...


Up we go step by step...


The valley from above...


Mt Ponmuri welcoming us...





Nuptse...








Thats the Khumbu Glacier....


Me there....


The origins of the Glacier...


And goes a long way...


Ed at the glacier...


Yup thats me...


More climb in store....








Mt Everest visible now... just the tip...


Spot the Everest now!!


We walk towards the Base camp....


Up and down we go...





The base camp is wraping up... these are the trucks around here...


By the glacier we walk...


Small frozen ponds in the glacier...


Great view...


Me spoiling it...


still going...





The camps afar...


One last climb down...





The snow has come down a lot due to two days of sun, else people have walked here in waist deep snow...





Yup made it. Me at the Mt Everest Base camp....


Its written there...


The camps around are gone, some tents remain which are closing for the season...


Thumbs up!


Posing time...


The troop at the Base camp....


Then we go down to the Glacier...





Icicles...


Play in the glacier...


Sink in...


In the glacier....


Me there...








In side one of the cravas of the glacier...


The troop on the glacier... me with the thumbs up again...


Me with the big man Haans, the most spirited guy in the group...


One of the porter taking of his shirt for a leap....


More posing...


Weather is catching up....


On our way back....





The rocks could roll down any time!!


Walk in the rock fall zone...


On the Nuptse...


Avalanche waiting to happen...


We walk back...





More hanging rocks...


Hope people dont follow the direction i put the board it!!


High altitude kids at the hotel....


Porters and guides get into their card games in the evening...


Some clear night photography...





Vertical travel for the day...

Day 86 - June 2 - GorakShep 2 Kalapattar 2 Dingboche

June02 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail: GPS Community

Against my fear i seemed to have a good nights sleep! Have the frozen veg sandwich i had packed the previous night. Yup don't want to workout in empty stomach. Get myself to Dining hall armed with a torch. People ready for the ultimate destination of the trek over a cup of tea and off we go. We walk a small plane and the ascent starts and that jolts down our speed. Its up and up and only one way which is up! Does not look so easy. Every step have to breath harder and the over worked diaphram pains. But there is no meaning stopping now. When all the things are right around just have to push the self. Start the rhythmic chants of 'you can make it', 'comon just a few more steps' !! Going gets real slow. People are tired. Some are up ahead and some are below. We have to climb through snow walked paths. By now the day breaks and we are still half way up. There is no rest in the incline it just goes up in a straight line. This is getting real tough compared to Base camp trek and in no time is the toughest part of the whole trek. The sun is raising behind the mountain range and the sky is clear. One by one the mountains tops glows on! Ponmuri is looking fantastic. Are we there yet? no long way up. Can see more of the Mt Everest every step. But just the shilovet as the sun is behind it. there is lil clouds around it which glows with the sunlight kinda giving a halo to Mt Everest. It getting colder every meter up. Finally we make it to the supposed summit of Kalapattar. Every one hurrayed and congratulated each other. But some how the view did not seem right. I could not see the whole Khumbu glacier. It see a path going up to the communications tower above. That was on a kinda over hand jutting out of the mountain top. Now i want to get there! On inquiry people were happy with the official summit of kalapattar. Well its time to take things on own and i started up and let the group go. Guess its the biker instinct to go till the last possible point. Cant control it! It was as good 50-60 meters up and chanted my way up step by step. The water drops on the bottle started freezing. And there is made it to the summit kind place. Could have gone till the edge of the over hang some 20 feet away but fear got the bettor of me and was happy till what i have climbed. I turn back and i am gifted with what i was looking for. The typical Mt Everest view from Kalapattar where you can see the the entire Khumbu glaciar from the origin. Guess this where they take 'the' pictures from. was a lil over 5600 meters. Cant really express in words the feeling of beeing up there all alone with such stunning nature around. Was confused as to how the take the pix as nothing seems right. But in truth morning is not a good time up there as the sun is behind the Mt Everest. But these times the clouds are also up by noon. Take what pix i can. Just when i positing the tripod the sun comes over the mountain range and spoils what lil pix i can take of the Mt Everest. But managed a few. Sat there for some time trying to grasp the ambiance. But i am not getting carried away cos the trek is not over. Not over till i get myself back to lukla on my own two feet. Starting from now i have to trace back each step i have taken so far and its going to be solo from here.

Reluctantly start back. Getting back to Dingboche is the plan for the day. Coming down you take two levels at a time and should be in Lukla in three days. Also i kinda had enough of the cold interiors, the food and wanted to get out of there walk back slowly looking around. Cautioning myself to take each step carefully cos any fall means not much help around and that to in off season. Get back to the hotel where i see see the group leaving. I have to take things at my slow pace now. Have a hearty meal and start back alone. It was a fantastic day take one last glance of the panorama around and walk towards Lobuche. Not many people around now but the occasional porters moving things. Walk some time beside the khumbu glacier and of course taking pix at will. Now that i am on my own can take as many breaks as i can. After one climb bid farewell to the khumbu glacier and all the mountains around and drop back to the valley of sorts. Felt like i was the only living thing around. It was a fantastic walk. My walking seemed to have improved a lot and things see so easy going down. Make my way to Lobuche by lunch time where i see the group for their lunch break. Just shuddered at the terrible night i spent at this place. Had lunch and it was time for Dingboche by the end of the day.

Everything seems so different today cos the last time i walked this path we were in a snow fall. Now all the snow is gone under two days of sun. As i walk down to the end of the valley of sorts i see some rock falls on the other side. Glad that i am not there i take a right and nothings familiar. Kinda lost for a moment. Luckily there were a couple of shepas who pointed me the right direction and yes i have to walk under the rock fall trail. Man it was a bit scary. could see chunks of rocks rolling down. Not really till the path but you never know when a big one is coming. Cross it any way. could see only couple of people till now going up taking each step with difficulty. Yup have to deal with it going up. Then i reach the point of climb down to Dukla. Could see the Dukla hotel all the way down in the clear weather. Kinda felt good that the other day weather was not clear else we would all be tired just by the look of the climb hehe. Could see the group far ahead with the colorful cloths who had crossed the river at Dukla and on their way to Dingboche. I get to Dukla, for a cup of hot lemon and soup. Get on to the last leg of the day. Now i see some mist emerging out of the valley! Man this is not good. The path is bit confusing near Dingboche, where i need to see the Stupas to get my bearings right. But the distance is so far that there is no point in hurrying and there is no chance of beating these swift moving mist clouds. Just enjoy the solo walk. All the while i could see Pheriche town in the valley floor while i am walking on top of the ridge towards Dingboche. Kinda tempted towards Pheriche, but i was told that since its off season, most of the hotels close down and a single customer will not get good service or food. So decided for Dinboche anyway. What can i say it was nice. Mist clouds though not heavy ones come from the valley take a turn with the valley and race out. It was a beautiful sight. Slowly i make it till where i could see the stupas. Luckily the mist was not that thick. I get down on the other side of the ridge for the Dingboche town and into the same hotel where i am welcomed by the group. Made it by like 4 pm

Well there is nothing much to do here but to absorb the warmth from the fire stove in the dining room. Could feel how all the people are now care free now that the though things are dealt with. Really enjoyed the western sense of humor. Haans and Sissy the elderly couple who made it all the way were quite enthusiastic all the way. I got a bit care free to and ordered a Mars Roll. Mars Roll? it did not do so well with my stomach. I kept asking myself the rest of the day, how could i order a Mars Roll? hehe. By now my feet are hurting a bit. yes the riding shoes meant for riding showing its color now. All these days i was taking it slow but today it was a day of swift walking covering some distance. Hoping thing will be fine get to bed. Tomm is a long walk to Namche.


Going up towards Kalapattar summit...


Mt Everest...


Ponmuri welcoming us...


Everest hiding behind the Nuptse...


Looks like halo on the Everest...





Some daring bird was hopping very close to us...


Mt Everest again....


High enough to fragment the light...


One by one mountains glow...


Long way up the summit...





I go a bit higher...


The troop happy down there...





This is the classic Everest view pic angle that you see in the pix. Guess this is where they take the pix from. You can see the entire khumbu glacier right from its origins... But the sun was behind the range so not good for photography....


Yup thats me there...


Long way down...


The communications equipment up there...


Glaring light behind the range...


Me at the official summit of kalapattar...


Down i go...


looking through the goggles...





Snow macro!!





Fantastic Ponmuri...


GorakShep below...


Hehe now i see it after coming down..


Thats not everest though....


Nuptse...


The glacier flows on...


Rocky path to walk back...


me there...


crystals in the glacier...





Going down the valley...





A memorial there...





Yup the whole this is private now...


Meet the occational porters...


Lobuche town for lunch....


Did i just see two walking stacks of chairs walk by ???


Towards Dingboche...





peering at the beauty...


Thats not the way... some camp there... the last time i was here every thing was snow covered...


The porters who guided me to the right direction...


Walk in the rock fall zone again...








Yaks...





Just before the climb down to Dukla...


Can see Dukla below, the ridge tot he left and the Periche town below the ridge... but i gotta walk on the ridge and get down the other side for Dingboche town...


what a climb down.. good that we could not see the whole thing while coming up...


Basic bridge...


Towards Dingboche...


No 1 around... the solitarity was just great...


I march on...


Pheriche below... kinda tempted to go there as there was mist approaching and it was a bit confusing near Dingboche in the mist...








Mt Taboche...


Closed tea house...


Clear enough to find my way... Dingboche below...


Hotels finally washing off thier quilts at the end of the season..


young yak...


Kala pattar accent...


GorakShep to Lobuche...


Lobuche to Dingboche...

Day 87 - June 3 - Dingboche to NamcheBazar

The Sleep was good. It has to be. Well acclimatized and the place not so cold comparatively. But the food was not done yesterday. Morning its difficult to get a proper breakfast in the westernized menu. Order chow min and get a heavy greecy one. Not really helping and cant have full. Start my way back after the group has left. Remembering how though i felt this strech coming up this stretch the last time. IT was nice walk but the vistas gradually getting to normal and get below the tree line. Hardly see anyone going up. We seem to the be the last of the tourists for the season and boy were we blessed with good weather. The stop for lunch is Tengboche i thought but take a couple of stops for light food in between. Most of the hotels are closed down for the season. After pangboche get down to the river to cross it on the bridge and there is a ok walk till Deboche village. Then there is the climb. Man it was getting to be a frustrating climb up. Did not realize it so much coming down a few days back. Tengboche was like ever far away. Slowly make it there for lunch. Order a veg momo and get a leaves momo instead! Yes off season is growing. My fone works here and check on a few mails, calls and updates. Now its time for namche with the imposing climb. Have to get down all the way to the river i see below and up to namche. Start the steep climb down from Tengboche. This is where the shoes starts hurting bad. Not really good while climbing down. Now that my walking has paced up, its troubling a lot. The trail goes steeply down a long way like a 1000 meters. And i thought climbing down was easy. By the end of it, the shoes was hurting my toes so bad that i was kinda looking forwards to the climb to namche! Progress gets slow as its a long way up. As i pass the villages the entire environment is changed. Lot more locals on the path. Kinda felt euforia in thier tone like as if they got back their place. The porters who few days back would stop at their tracks a few days back to let the tourists go are now sticking to their line of walk and i have to get out of their way.

Namche is still quite far way. Its already 4 by the time i am done with the climb. Thought its near by but how wrong i am. To avoid hurt to the toes i was a bit different and the feet around the ankles start hurting now. This is really silly discomfort to undergo after such a fabulous trip. Hoping to reach namche soon but mountain fold by mountain bold i walk and i see only more path to be walked. Finally get to Namche at the fading light of 5.45 pm and i am almost limping by now. Does not look good i still have one more long day of walk left. Get to the same Yak hotel. The owner had arranged for my flight ticket to be rescheduled at lukla. was kinda tempted to rest for a day but with the monsoon the flights gets unreliable and i wanted to get out of their with out getting stuck. Reluctantly i confirmed by reaching to Lukla the next day so that the flight could be booked. I was the only guest in the entire hotel. Take long hot shower after a week. Felt really good and get to my bed early. I am still limping!


Baby yak spotted... so cute!


New wing construction at the hotel... they dont use anything to fill between the stones... they just shape it and place the stones like a jigsaw puzzle and a cardboard layer on the inside.. that it!!


Looks like this when done...


A worker shaping the stone...


One last look at Dingboche...


Some scary path with possible narrow landslide path..





An elderly indian group...


Puffy big yaks...


Baby yak...


The path to walk after crossing the river...


dropoffs beside the path...


me there...


Pretty town of pangboche but most of the hotels are closed for the off season...


So wanted to have lunch here...


A local chanting away...


Going down to the bridge...


stones with prayers carved on them...


Walk under the trees now...


Fraustrating climb up to Tengboche..


Finally get there...


View from the restaurant...


Climbing down from Tengboche...


Have to go down to the river and again climb up the opposite mountain!!


Steep way down...


The bridge to cross...


The stone holding the old bridge seemed to have rolled down!!


Towards namche...





Wood carrying trucks!!


Its all leaves no flowers!


Searching for Namche mountain fold after mountain fold...





It goes on and on...


A PeaHen spotted...


Where is Namche ???


Get there finally...


Namche bazar...


Lot less activity on the streets, hardly any trekkers...

Day 88 - June 4 - NamcheBazar to Lukla

June04 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail: Travel Community

Wake up with a feet hurting real bad and i am still not able to walk properly. I even see boils between the toes, the source of pain. No choice but to walk with the same inappropriate shoes. Remove the insoles which feels slightly bettor. Now that charging is free take a backup of my pix in the laptop and start kinda late by 8. Buy myself a couple of badges of Base camp and kalapattar Could not really get the Tee shirt i was looking for. Meet Raymond on his way back to lukla as well. I am so concerned with the walk back today as the feet is paining just in the beginning of the day. To top it i have the long steep climb down from Namche. Not really wanted to get back on a pony for the last leg. I gave it a go no matter what happens. Climb down from Namche with lot of pain and get to the river. Now i notice every bit of arrogance in the path. As the uneven path not helping me at all. Have to keep going as i have to get to lukla by evening. Keep the torch handy just in case i have to walk in night. Decide on phakding for lunch. Negotiate my way till Joselle and i am hungry by now. Stop at a restaurant for some weird breakfast. Chapati with omelete!! By the time i am done, the group arrives there and its big hellos again. They are stopping at Phakding for the day and taking it easy. Bid farewell one last time to the group with thanks and start my way. There seem to be lot of porters on the path. And soon it became mutual irritation. With all due respect for these people leading a tough life and plight, but from my point of view where i am taking every step with pain have to get off the path to every porter. There seem to be many today. I have to get out of the way of luggage carrying yaks. This is not pleasant at all. But it was nice meeting one of the porter, singa bahudur. Had met him on the same stretch the first day of the trek and here i meet him on the same stretch on the last day of the trek. we both seem to have thinned out. Me with the trek and the bahadur with the seasons carrying of heavy weight for days. After a chat we bid farewell and i carry on. Reach Phakding by 3PM. Concentrating on the foot i have ignored taking rests and my back is now complaining about lugging around the weight. Am so tempted to stay back for the day there. But decided to making a home run to lukla at any cost.

Geting going after a break is even more painful and takes some time to get used to the pain. I just hope that i dont do any permanent damage! The ruggedness of the path is getting to me step by step. It was becoming a torchorous walk. What should have been a triumphant happy walk to the finish line is riddled with pain now. A hour to lukla there is a turn going away from the valley. I stop at the place for quite some time staring at the valley. It was an emotional moment recollecting my days in the valleys. This is where i had pushed my self emotionally physically beyond my limits and am still walking past the place. Still in a state of awe that i could possibly endure and triumph at such a personal challenge. I am not hooked to trekking. Its just the place, the Mt Everest and the curiosity to test my limits that got the bettor of me. Kinda felt the pang leaving the place but at the same time this is one beautiful place where i dont wish to come back. I cant deal with all that again. Reluctantly i turn away and look forward to getting into lukla on my own two feet. It there is a gradual climb to lukla and its not going to reveal it self so easily. The never ending gradual up slope, mountain fold after mountain fold frustrates me to the core. I start cursing and but dunno whom to curse.

Finally as late as 6pm there is just one more steep mountain fold to walk to the the arch at the beginning of the lukla town. steadily i limp my way to the finish line and a sense of euphoria engulfs me. My happy face comes out from deep within and all is forgiven and really happy. This is one of the rare moments in life where i exalted with full heart. Finally i can say to myself that Yup i made it. My be the passers by felt strange about about my smile as i am a bit limping through the lukla town. Now i can congratulate myself about the trek which i did not at the Base camp nor kalapattar.

Find the Namaste hotel and Meet Mr Kimi who has my air ticket. There's TV in the dining room have a heavy happy dinner and get to the bed. With one last hope that weather favors the next day and i can fly out. Feet and back hurting pleasantly i doze of the sleep.


One last look at Namche Bazar town..


The initial climb down..





not really smooth...


Looking down at the path to go. Will be walking beside the river in some time...


Steep climb down..


People some switch back below...


Naa i am not going to use a pony like that!!


These trees just grow on the vertical faces of the mountain!!


The bridge to the other side...


Father and son handling some untrained young yaks...


It takes quite a push from the handler to get them on to the bridge. Prolly the young yaks were afraid of walking on the bridge...


Down to the river level....


Me finishing of the last of my Snikker bars...


A hotel at Jossele...


Old traditional house...





First time i see luggage mules in this path...


The bridge to Phakding...


These guys were wedged into rest and i had to jump over the logs. Well if you trouble me...you pay with your picture!!


Some ups and downs...


Lot of traffic...


chicks!!


This guy was cooking his own meal !!


That board is really needed else i would have walked straight...


Never seen goats with masks!!


The path as arrogant as it can get...


Meet the porters... Nice meeting Singa Bahadur again...
Psst... i am carrying heavyer stuff just that its dense and small!!


Towards Lukla...


More traffic on the foot highway...


Some bokeh..


They have this 5 colors prayer flags with blue signifiying sky, white - air, red- fire, green-trees and yellow - water... hope i got that right...


Then its all climb to Lukla...


This is where is stoped and stared at the valley for quite some time reliving the last few days..cos i was about to turn away from the valley...


lot more ground to cover to lukla...


i walk/limp on...


Thats the deviation to Jiri for people who want to walk like 5 days more.... no way for me i am flying out..


Its gets steep and slow...


You got to be kidding me... still how much more? that was my natural reaction btw


Finally i spot the Lukla arch...


Yup i made it all the way on my own two feet!!


Lukla town...


Seems deserted for the off season...


Vertical travel for the day...

Day 89 - June 5 - Lukla to Kathmandu

I hear the rain early in the morning. Hmmm... looks like i will be in the town for a day. Now i dint care. Things were beyond my control any way and i am done with my walking. As i thought of getting up late i hear a chopper and the rains seemed to have stopped. I jump out of the bed pack stuff in a jiffy and get down to gulp the break fast. But it was a false alarm. The weather was still not that great and there was no confirmation of flights for the day. And mine was like 4th flight on yeti airlines if there are flights for the day! As i stroll to the airport wondering about the flights i see Jason and Ashley in the hotel near the airport! i thought they would have gone the previous day where i was walking all day in clear sunshine! But it seemed weather was bad at lukla and they missed their flights! Then i hear the hooter at the airport signaling about the flights for the day. People hurried to the airport. The other guests at the hotel who were ticket less the previous day were going out on the first flight and i am on fourth? you gotta be kidding me. Waiting is not a an issue but with the quick changing weather you never know when the flights gets canceled.

One by one 4 flights land at the airport in quick successions and whisk away the lucky ones. Then i get to the airlines office and demanded cancellation so that i could try other airlines. on that the put me on the next flight!! Things around here just work like a bus station. There is not fixed time. You get the boarding pass and just wait for the plane to arrive and run to it as soon as it comes. Really felt like waiting for my bus hehe. The pilots of other airline were having a cup of noodles on right on the tarmac standing! And there comes my bus err.. flight and we all hop in. Ready my camera to capture the takeoff from the precarious airport and take a VDO looking through the cockpit. But the take off was not at all dramatic as the landing. Yup now its confirmed and we are on our way to Kathmandu. This draws the trek to a full circle and has been like a fairy tale with things working out perfectly. I have met people who had to come down from Lobuche due to bad weather, met people who had to come down from Gorek shep without visiting base camp or kalapattar due to bad weather, all on my way up and i get the perfect window of clear weather to feel the place and i come to Lukla and flights run the same day i intend. This has been just great. Peer through the window all the way and finally touch down at Kathmandu and it was a successful trek now. Congratulate the other trekkers in the flight and off to my hotel to unite with my ZMA. Its was still there. Will be on the road soon but not before a couple of days rest. I seemed to have thinned out further. Just lazed around the rest of the day.


The rained out streets of Lukla...


Flights coming in to Lukla...


Wished i could get on to one of those....


The town has got a bit boring for the off season...


Pilots have no respect hehe.. they have to have the break fast on the tarmac! That was funny...


Thats my plane...


And in the air..


It was fun watching the mountains go by recollecting the days of the trek...





Date and time clock was the biggest instrument on the pilots console!!


Nearing Kathmandu...


And touch down...


Back to the heat...


I award myself a couple of Badges


Base camp trekkers unite for a 'Last Hurray' as Ashley says...
Fun filled evening celebrating the trek with Casey, Ashley, Jason and Brady left to right...

Praveen.. this is just one awesome log, took 10 mins load on my dsl connection.. BSNL rocks i know

Just wanted to say that the mountains look so small in those photos.. I was expecting them to humongous.. maybe like they say "doorada betta kannige nunnage"


Question for you, of all the places you visited now, which do you miss the most? and how much space has all these photos taken up on your hard drive?