@praveenkm-You are the man.Keep it coming.Don't know what all are there in your plan but its like a story unfolding in front of you and we are enjoying every moment of it.

@maverick-Last year 3 guys from xBhp went to Bhutan.The thread is there in xBhp.

@Praveen: Sire, you are in your own world! Kudos. And now, you are in another country. Tremendous going. Bhutan is an awesome country. Do share loads of pictures of Bhutan once you do get time, and the net connectivity is alright.

When do you plan to return home? It seems you are on a world tour now! Traversing through Bhutan, China, and the rest of the world, are we?

Wonderful journey it has been for you, and an awesome read it has been for each one of us, I am sure. Keep sharing your day-to-day experiences. And all the very best for the rest of the journey!

Oof! My Gawd. Amazing stuff. Truly mind boggling.

No words to describe your journey. I stand up and salute you .

I guess i took the creative liberty of posting that Pkm was the first xBhpian in Bhutan for granted
@MG : Thanks for the info

@Pkm : Truly godlike saar. I just have to meet you, once you are back from this awesome ride.
Namaskara beduve nimminda

Wasn't too long ago that I set out to do something like this. PKM, a drink of your choice when you're back. Been a while since we caught up anyway.

PS: Are you planning on coming back?

Nammagella illuve drinku..??
Would be nice if you could share what your 'Awesomely breathtaking trip' plans were..?
And did the 'One figured in the scheme of things..?

Thanks for following the log guys. Just making use of an opportunity. Staying single at 30 helps i guess. Right now stuck at gedu from yesterday! land slide just before one hour of me reaching there. Hope road opens tomm. Gprs from fone. No internet.

Very understandable from your SMS type post. Wish you all the best in the coming days.

Hi Guys, Finally made it to Thimpu today

@MG: Even i dont know what the plan is actually going to be, but now just have the general direction towards NorthEast and then Sikkim

@Aryan. Thanks man. Even returning time is also unknown Bhutan seems nice but its all getting very slow here. Hope i can do actual touring from tomm..

Its more so for me too Ken

I salute u back bprags

Surely shall catch up Maveric

@Rossitor: yes coming back is in the pipeline Do share what plans you had. Thanks for the tempting offer, but i dont drink in Bangalore btw after this net session, it will be rum time

Thanks pranay

To continue....

Day 21 - Siliguri to Pheuntsholing

GPS Trail...
March29 - EveryTrail


Plan was to get going and settle in Pheuntsholing early and check out the city. The next day get the permits and then move on.

But before that i wanted to do some updates and the Tata Indicom giving me hell of trouble and too me till 11.30 morning to upload a few small photographs. This update process is becoming a over head and loss of time. But if i dont do it then i will loose the accounts of the day. May be will keep the record offline if its going to be the same in the next state.

Just then i realized i have done absolutely no home work on Bhutan. I know nothing about the place, the currency the permit process,the food the language etc etc. I got this old sinking feeling used to get when i sometimes enter the exam hall without preparation! Made a few inquiries, Read a bit in lonely planet bhutan and thought would catchup the next day at phuentsholing. Time to ride and news, its 180kms and not 80 as i thought! Damn now i am in a hurry. Want to get across the border before sundown. Ask around a bit to get directions. But the roads got bad in sections and traffic in the narrow two lanes slowing me further. Plus the bike handling like crap. Thanks to the HH mechs at Kolkata, who fixed a perfectly working cone set! Its getting tight and bike is weaving around giving me nausea. Luckily HH service center at Jalpaiguri was on the bypass road and they reluctantly tried to fix it. Just loosened the cone set. I knew this was temporary fix as i had done that myself twice only for the problem to reappear again. But i got no time for detail check. Get the bike together and ride towards bhutan. Guvahati is also getting near. Cross Hashimara and take the deviation to Bhutan. As i am getting near the road got worse and worse but no less traffic. I start seeing vehicles with red number plates. Finally i make it to the colour full border gate by 5 PM to the get the praised international border crossing pic!

Not sure if i would be let in as the the offices are closed and can get permit only next day. The cops got curious at my odd presence. Checked my passport and license and told be to get in stay at phuentsholing till i get permit. Fair enough i wanted to stay in bhutan to get the feel of a different country. As soon as i get in, a big guy approaches inquiring about the panniers. Says he is part of local bullet club and suggests me hotel Paradise near by. First i thought to get room on a hill with a view and went in search for that negotiating the oneways and one out i thought its bettor stay in the city as it looked very attractive. Finding hotel paradise was a tough task thanks to the one way. I came to a crowded Y road 3 times. Was going round in circles. One way rules are very strict, even got busted once and was forgiven by a cop and told to go the other way. When i went to the same cop second time. He said your friend just went that side! LOL so for them we all look alike Finally finally i found the hotel paradise and settled in double as single was not available. Dumped the things and got out in a jiffy. Walking on the streets felt great. Went to the big guys restaurant who suggested a traditional bhutan dish. Boy O boy was it hot with chillies. To spoons and i lost sensation of taste! Now did not want to leave it and some home managed to finish the less hot rise and soup. Man no more bhutanese food They are full of chillies. The hotel i stayed had a Bar and restaurant of their own. Wow that is what i was looking for since i started. Some food and drink and went out for a walk. Boy it felt good walking high with no fear of getting mugged. Really loving the place. My entire ride in east coast, i was told not to be out late as its not safe and here it felt like i got freedom.

Gave myself a break from updating the dairy and watched a movie in the room and dozed of happily.


Nice old hotel Hillview at Siliguri. But i see no hills!


Siliguri streets.


Nice roads towards bhutan.


First time i see flat Tea estates!


There was some nature park. Looked tempting. But i was too scared of getting mugged! so turned back


Bhutan here i come..



But not a very good welcome. Very nicely done to cause irritation!



Those hills are Bhutan.



Yooohooo my first international border crossing on the bike!


The wall is actually border! i was trying to find a way to get into the shops visible there


The Bhutanese border gate at night.


Free streets at night...

Day 22 - Process at Pheuntsholing

Hope full of getting both the permits, for me and my bike the same day. Show myself at the immigration office at 10.15 fill up the form and when it give it to the traditionally attired clerk, he gave it back saying single tourist not allowed! What crap din know about that. But y? what do i do now? An Indian lad who was watching suggested me to go to the Indian embassy and get the for attested then it will work. But what if it doesn't work, would be just rubbing with the immigration and may not be allowed. The receptionist suggests may be i could team up with other India tourists. But that is a loophole and din want to get into that. Reluctantly tried a couple of people to group in but none were tourists and it was a waste of time.

Thought what ever happens would try from the Indian embassy. Told them about the situation. They said should not be a problem as i have passport. The Counselor tried to call immigration officer but he was not available. I was told to wait at immigration office and call up once the officer comes. When i went there, the office was present and went to meet him and requested him to call Indian embassy and it worked. I was sent with a instruction on my application form and now the clerk took it and then my picture! Was told to collect the permit by 2 PM. Gosh its getting tight as the RSTA would close by 4 pm.

When i am there at 2 PM my permit is not ready. The link to Thimphu is down it seems! now there is indefinite delay. i have to wait and wait and get the permit by 4PM! Man bureaucracy is same every where. With no hopes i went to RSTA with the papers and find it closed and all i could do was admire the beauty of the building. Bhutan building are beautiful with tradition embedded. So a whole day is not enough to get the permits for myself and the bike. Gosh i am coming here to spend money and still get treated like this! Definitely not a very tourism friendly attitude over here.

Well i can relax at the town would guilt feeling cos its not me wasting my time :d. Hope to get the permit the next day early and reach Thimphu for permit extension. Else i could have started early in the morning. Now will have to leave late

Main Streen at PheuntSholing...


Wonder how long will it take to get there...


Vehicles are made to roll over some disinfectant...


The beautiful RSTA building..

Day 23 - Pheuntsholing to Gedu!

GPS Trail...


Got up early got every thing packed and had breakfast and bang at the RSTA office by 9AM. But its not going to be easy. Takes like 1.5 hours to get the permit! This was the process:

Go to the second floor License office
Sent down to get blank sheet and write application for permit. No form here.
Go to the second floor License office
Was told to get is attested with the RTO officer in charge
Takes 45 mins to get the audience as he was busy!
Again go the License officer,
Told to got the Accounts section to pay 50 bux - The person not there after 5 mins comes sipping a hot cup of coffee
Then i take the receipt to License officer who signs it
Now i was told to meet the receptionist to prepare the permit
She tell its not her work
Go back to License officer, who accompanies and reprimands the lady to prepare it.
She prepares it being really disturbed. Now it has to be signed
was told to get the sing from the RTO officer! Man not the busy him again running out of time for office closure
Luckily the lady comes and tell me to meet the RLO officer instead.
He says its not his job and only when the RTO office is on leave
Tell him that he is very busy and RLO officer signs the Permit
Take it to the Receptionist lady
Sent down to get the photocopy of the same
Go back to Receptionist in second floor
Who now hands me the permit!

Phew! finally i am street legal in Bhutan! After 3-4 inquires i was told that Roads till Thimphu are new and excellent! This gets me a bit lazy just 172 kms na.

Start from hotel at 11.15 and ride slowly welcomed by awesome new road climb. Stopping for pix and even take a break after just 25 kms. WOW felt good to be on my own on the road after nearly two weeks. Then voila it turns to offroads for KMs and KMs. These roads excellent?!! No letting by at all. My speeds reduce to 20-30. Still not feeling bad i intend to do lot of hill riding and have to do this any way. Going is very slow and all i can hope for is to get myself to Thimphu.

The road just climbs and climbs it gets chilly in no time. Cross a couple of check posts get the entry done and at the second post i was given a shocker. There is land slide ahead of Gedu and road blocked! Man O man more delay. This is really getting slow and frustrating. Ride till Gedu and was stopped by the cop behind a long line of vehicles. The land slide has taken a couple of trucks along with it seems. I have been on the move like 4 hours just covered 50 kms and stuck here at Gedu at 3 pm. More bad news the road wont open today and next day is also doubtful. The most disgusting news is that the land slide happened at 1.30 PM. *(&^#^%#^&# If only those immigration office had given my permit in reasonable time could have started early the day and crossed the doomed path. I spend like an hour the falling temperature thinking what to do. The bureaucracy costing me more trouble. Get lot of advices to get back to Pheuntsholing in the alternate bettor road which opens at 5.30 pm! Man they have a bettor road closed for traffic in day time! Its getting ridicules. While my time thinking what to do. May at least today stay at Gedu and think of options the next day. Not so easy and no hotels in Gedu! I was suggested Nono hotel which found after some searching and its a big no no actually. Very very very basic and dilapidated. I would rather spend time on the road then there.

Then i was told about a hotel in main town and again lug myself across the parked vehicles and was told not rooms! Then was told to try the THPL guest house. Wow the building looks gorgeous. Went there and what luck its packed full cos of a official meeting. No amount of persuasion helps. No help. Now was getting desperate. Din wanna ride back to Pheuntsholing after all this. With no option just when i was gearing up for that i see this quick dark heavy cloud moving in from over the hill! boy that was scary. Not to forget the freezing cold. Did not want to get stuck in that kinda rain. Asked a passing by India about acco and he who worked at the guest house had no idea. I even said i would stay with him.! He kinda agreed but he had no extra bed and i will have to make do with what i have. Was told to wait! Now wondering what am i getting myself into! Just then i see a gentle man walking by. Go to him introduce myself and about me journey and inquire about acco. With a faint hope he might invite me over But instead he said there is hotel with rooms and can follow him to the market. Which i did and sure enough there was a place to say. So wat if did not have attached bathroom. Still it was neat and clean and had a restaurant as well. I settled in. Got myself a place to escape from cold. All thanks to the Shimi the Lecturer whom i met.

Of course there is not TV. It is a small settlement but people are still kinda vella. With nothing much to day. thought of watching a movie. The power socket does not work ^#%&*#$# Now what am i supposed to do? Have my dinner walk around the cold and get some snacks and once in the room, now the electrical socket miraculously works. Hurry. I then watch a movie under my cozy blanket and doze with an uncertain tomorrow.

I go up the altitude today...


My collection of Bhutanese currency....


The nice hotel in the center of the city where i stayed...


Its Bar and Restaurant...




The future owner of the hotel..


Bidding bye to city of Pheuntsholing...




First permit check post...


Himalayan roads same every where....





Road block due to land slide!!


The THPA guest house where i did not get acco...


Man those clouds just came over the hills in a jiffy!!

Beautiful pics, just beautiful. What a breath taking country.

Thanks Pranay

To continue...

Day 24 - Stuck at Gedu...

With very faint hopes of the road opening today, got up late had a lazy breakfast and went to check out the blocked. Only found more vehicles lined up. The cop says the road clearing work has not yet begun. It will commence only after the bodies of landslide victims were recovered and still one person was missing. The may open tomm but now sure he says. May? May? With all due respects for the people who lost their lives there, this is going to be a real show stopper for my travel. If only Bhutan immigration activity did not take the whole day i would have been on my way. This is 4th day in Bhutan and i am getting now where. My plan was 5-6 days in Bhutan!

Came back to the room and with nothing to do, watched couple of movies on the laptop. It was kinda good for a change. I like it when i get to waste time without feeling guilty for it But cant take it one more day. Go on a small ride our the hilly town of Gedu for taking pix. The Bhutan buildings really look good in their traditional style. Took a small diversion to go till the dead and found that it was goin to another town and not really in mood to bear bad roads for nothing. Just clicking what ever looks pretty. Again back to the room for another movie.

Around evening i see a few trucks going towards Phuentsholing and was exited thinking the road might have opened. Went there to check it out and still find all the vehicles lined up for the opening. The only cyber cafe in the town was also closed. Thought of trying luck at the engineering college but they would not entertain a non student for net access But the college building looked impressive at least from outside.

What else had some soup back to room and a movie again.. This is big waste of time and have a long way to go....

Window of my small room..


Domestic mountain goats spotted!


The great white Mule...


Nicely built residential area...


Just riding around a bit in the hills...


Beautiful school...


The Naughty baker's son...


With his big sis...


The vehicles still in the wait to get across...


Mean while i befriend a couple of cops. To the right is Pemahishi, in the middle is Tajo... sorry forgot!


Small town but the aesthetics are followed...


The Engineering collage building at night...


The lazy big cute dog at the hotel i stayed...


The forbidden road...


Going down to my hotel...



Colorful bar... almost every hotel has a bar section!


Me stuck in the chilly room.. got nothing to do but watch movies...


Spread out...

Day 25 - Gedu to Thimpu

GPS trail...
April02 - EveryTrail

127 KMs...

Got up with lot of question in mind as to what now. Am i heading back to Pheuntsholing? am i staying here one more day? Putting them i aside saw a bit of Gajani movie. Had a lazy breakfast and got ready by 10 to do one more recce round to know the situation of road block. When i reach there, no waiting vehicles to be found!! The road has opened an hour ago. Damn what am i doing here now?!! If only i had been a bit proactive. Any way rush to room. Takes time collecting all the things strewn across the room. Its cold too and some time to wear the gear. Finally its as late as 11.30 by the time i start. Sheet i may not be able to get in time to Thimpu to extend the permits. This permit business sux. Why cant they give all at once at Pheuntsholing.

The start was horrible. The road work going on and a fresh layer of stones spread evenly on the mud road. Bike rolling side to side on the small stones. Its looks cloudy as well dunno when it will start raining. With thought balancing act after some time gifted with tarmac for some time. Not much of the views can be seen thanks to the cloud. Sunlight is also at a premium. I pass by narrow precarious looking road in the landslide territory. I also pass by the landslide which had caused the blocked. A slide of like 20 feet in width right a strategic curve had taken a tipper along with it. The worker near by explained where the tipper had gone and that one person's body is still missing. And one of the person's body was recovered in pieces! Man! Dangerous highway it is.

Unrelenting bad roads, cloudy weather not much of the mountains can be seen and threat of rain was not looking like a pleasurable ride. When i crossed over to another mountain, where the road widening work had not begun, was some relief. With old aging road and greenery either side. was even gifted with Sunlight for some time in between. couple of permit check posts. The road gets very narrow running up and down the mountains. But vehicles driving aggressively. My roots horn coming in handy. Loosing best of the views to the clouds. Now this is sick loosing the best parts of the ride. Here the GPS fone started behaving wayword showing speeds of 850-1000 kmph!! lost the track for some of the curvy sections. Had a bit of mood off as the GPS was not working now.

At around 3.30 some 40 kms to Thimpu the road becomes awesome awesome and awesome two laned twisties. This is the bested tightest wide twisties i rode. Couldnt get proper picture of it. Stop by at hotel which had a parking so big that a plane could land!! Hot veg momos. Super taste for my hungry self. Still not the exitement i expected nearing Thimpu, kinda depressed. yeah it was cos of lack of Sunlight. Felt like the whole day i was riding in the evening!

Entered city by 5 PM. Checked the Lonely planet for figuring out the Hotel and Hotel Tandin it is. Found it soon and checked in at 550 expensive. Thought lonely planet said 350. Immediately left to check out the 'Takin', the national animal of Bhutan. Ask my way around and do quite some climb. Good that people understand Hindi in Bhutan. With the threat of rain finally found the Takin reserve and sure enough spotted. They are not much posers and all they do is put their head inside the food bin and keep eating! There was a hole in the fence trough which i put the cam and took a couple of shots. It looked like a cross between a cow and a goat. Seemed quite a gentle animal. On the way back saw the evening growing on the city with lights appearing. Stopped for some evening shots of the city from the above.

On the way back saw a temple perched high above the hill and after running around still could not find it. Actually there is no road i had to park my bike and climb up stairs. Half way through it started raining. So i rain down to the bike to get the rain gear. By the time i was in them, the rain stopped! Man this is the second time. Again i ride across the town to come the hotel cos of the one and like an idiot get into the hotel in a rain suit! with the rain pants making the swishing sound as i walk by.

Any way went in search of the Discotheque which was mentioned in the Lonely planet. Bought a soft material cap as it was very cold and cold not let my head take it. As i reach the Disco it was closed! They are closed on Thursdays it seems. Strange habbits. As i walk back befriend a cop asking directions for immigration office and RSTA. He even guided me to Cyber cafe. What luck the cafe had broadband and i did a few quick updates. Was 10 when it was over and went over to my hotel for dinner and peg. But its closed! crap now i have to make do with food from a small hotel across the street. It was good but not very relaxing ambiance.

Tomm i plan to stay in Thimpu instead of paro. City looks good. But its going to be tight as i also have to get the permit. Taktshat Geomba and Chelela and back to Thimpu with the sort of weather condition around looks very tough. Lets see how it goes!.

Getting away from the hold up. The top right room was mine...


Gravel road for quite some time...



The Gedu town from the other side...


Some smooth roads...


Cant see much of the mountains...


This was not the main landslide..


In the land slide area....



This was the landslide that caused the hold up for 2 days!...



Stopped to take the pic of the rock that had fallen. Just as i was putting back the cam a truck from behind me crossed the rock and stood left to allow a opposing truck. I crossed the rock and stood behind the truck. Since there was no space the truck all of a sudden started backing with the workers behind shouting. Luckily my bike was on and i was in gear, in a reflex i went more left and ahead wee before the truck hit me... Phew! My mistake should not be in the blind spot of the monsters!




The road left behind....


All that is a single road that i rode through....


Some posing time...




Getting deep into the hills nearing Thimpu...


Yummy hot momos just when i was damn hungry....


This hotel had a really really huge parking lot!


The last 42 kms to Thimphu was on this Awesome road...




Roads inside Thimpu...


Going to see the Takins




Some evening shots on the way back...




The main street Norzin Lam at night...