^^ i think its because of the deserted look of the vally made him say like that.

Ahhh... That brought back the memories. K-Top. Diskit. Hundar. Sandstorms. Panamik. Sumur. Pangong Tso. That place is jus the best.

Good going Praveen. Will surely catch you one day for a beer. Wait, you don't drink beer. Well, fruit juice then

The 21 engine salute and helmets off to you sound perfect. You are making people rediscover their motorcycling vocabulary.

Two pics speaks by themselves about the warrior in the pic
great going and expecting new log of a new place

Hi Guys, kinda back to civilization (Leh) after 6 days. Each of those days were fantastic rides, i must have hardly ridden 5 kms before stopping for a pic or gaze. Boy is eastern Ladakh roads isolated!! there are roads too! Feels great to have a shower after 6 days and have something else than maggie. This is what i have been doing:

July 22 - Leh to Lukung(pangong Tso)
July 23 - Marsimek La and Given up attempt to reach Spangmik!
July 24 - Lukung to Tangtse to Chushul
July 25 - Chushul to Tsaga La to Loma to Hanle ( following wrong track could take me to china)
July 26 - Hanle to Loma to Mahe to Karzok (Tso Moriri)
July 27 - Karzok to Chumatang to Leh.

I could have managed the whole circuit with out carrying additional fuel at all! As i got fuel at Tangtse, Chushul and Hanle. You get it even at Chumatong as well. Except the last day i was always carrying 10 ltrs of extra fuel in cans! Cos at the end of the day i could fill up the tank! Lot of locals are now using Vehicles and fuel is available more easily these days i guess. Just thats its expensive at 60-70 bux per liter. BSNL towers are up at Karu, Tangtse, Nyoma and also some village 10 kms before Upshi towards chumatong. Though Tangtse tower is yet run properly of rather waiting for the generator to be fixed!

Those are too great a words. Tamma haaraike ge dhanyavaadagalu

I am done with eastern Ladakh as well, now there is only one way. South to Manali. Heard the Himachal roads are a torcher now and also 2-3 big Nalas!

They were 4 so they helped each other push the bullets up the stream. These days you get petrol at Tangtse as well. In fact many places as more and more locals have started using vehicles... But guess they must have filled up in Diskit.

Thanks Moeed.

Hehe thanks for the thought. But i am not worthy i am not worthy....

Glad you liked the logs Lost soul. Dont feel brave but its been nice so far.

Yup after all this might as well ride back home...

Hopefully will do it tomm

Thanks suvo.

Not sure of the owner ship, but saw just one household in the entire small valley floor so i just commented that way

Kinda yeah, cos no other house shared the valley floor...

Glad to have got you Nostalgic Abhimanyu. I dont drink beer but i do drink all other kindsa alcohal

THanks Nio, will try to upload them tomm..

Thats some trip brother....u have set a new benchmark.Please let us know the accomodation and food available through this whole route and whether carrying tents with sleeping bags is essential.Also any issues with permits through this area......eagerly waiting for your inputs .

man o man !
This is exactly the route we were planning about... please give more info about that route... distance, accommodation, fooding & fuel.... we are starting next month...

gr8 ride bro... waiting for pix !!!

Thanks Speedo. Will be putting up the logs and have put in some info. Will be glad to give more info of what i know. Guess no need for Sleeping bags unless you really want to. Was hardly doing 130 kms in this route per day and ended up in places by 4 pm. Will have to insist on longer permits at Leh DC office else they will try to give you only 7 days permit. Going ahead of Chunshul, the people posted there will have to get confirmation from their senior through a radio. Well if the senior cant be reached might as well be sent back!

Burnoutz: have put some info in the logs, let me know if you need more info..

Day 136 - July 22 - Leh to Lukung (Pangong Lake)

July22 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail: Share and Plan your Trips

158 KMs Trip Meter 17626 KMs

After Nobra valley thought of resting for a day at Leh. As usual when i have time to sleep i wake up pretty early! Thought the day would be empty with no work. But was a hectic day with blog update, new jerry cans, cash, sim recharge etc etc and slept bit late. Come morning alarm at 5 i am damn sleepy! I was wide awake the same time the previous day when i could sleep for hours! Any way after quite some snoozes i pull myself out of the bed and though packing is done the previous day it still takes a lot of time trying out the new jerry cans, of all the days i forgot to charge the cam battery! Some last minute stuffing and a long coffee made sure that i left only by like 7.30 am. A good 1.5 hours from what i planed. I go to the ATM and it does not work and i have to go to the other one and some more time. The weather is not looking good as well. Its all cloudy. I had just one main concern for the day, the dreaded Pagal nala near pangong lake. But i was assured that with the dull weather there would be less water by the time i made it there. But not really good for photography.

Reach the next town and see a shoe repairer and i wanted to fix my old cam pouch as the new one was not comfy and very irritating. Though the work seems good, thats a good 40 mins lost. All i think now is the Pagal nala. Reach karu and fill up a ltr of fuel just in case. Have maggie in sakti village and start the accent to the Mighty Changla. Hardly 3500 meters and the bike is already struggling. I see mountains and mountains with a line higher on each successive one. Wondered if my bike would do it. Slowly i am relegated down the gears one by one. At around 17000 feet i was down to 1st and 2nd gear! i can still see quite a few switch backs going up! Bike did k-top and wariLa in the same state of tune but not so now. If changla is like this wondered about the marsimik la! Have to mess with the tuning and i give the air screw half a turn outwards. The difference was huge and i could now ride in 3rd gear at 40kmph. Thats good enough. Soon the pass was like 5 kms and the pavement ends and its all offroads and small stream crossing and quite a few rocks. Cant maintain the momentum here and shuffle between the first 3 gears and slowly make it to the Changla pass. Yes my bike did it. Of course its pix session next. There is free tea, biscuits and raisins from the Indian army which i relish.

Get going and the other side is even more worse. Looks more steep and really bad surface for a few Kms. Just big stones some places. Its was kinda nasty till i get down to the pavement. Its not very smooth but still its pavement! With Changla Negotiated, just concerned about Pagal nala now. Not much distance to cover for the day but still there is a hurry and there is fight to ride ahead or stop for pix. Every day in Ladakh has been different experience and though cant explain in words the landscape was interesting. Now there is a threat of rain. The same clouds which may help me causing less water at pagal Nala, would turn bad if it rained and water there would swell. I am in rain drops now. But still carry on till they get heavier i thought. It was just small drops so i rode on. Reached the town of Durbuk kind on a plain in the valley floor and road towards Tangtse town. There is new BSNL tower in the town but the bad news is its not working! I trace out the Namsay guest house, whose contact was given to me by the hotel owner in Leh. There was this family who got interested in my ride and they had vdo cam and kinda interviewed me! i know its just a novelty to their trip but did want to act too much. Was loosing valuable time as i had to hurry up and cross pagal Nala. Finally when i was let go, meet the guest house owner and request him for fuel and its there in the next shop. Its at a premium like 50 bux for 750 ml. But atleast there is fuel. Now i am back to full stock. Was pretty hungry but wanted to cross Pagal nala first so hurried up.

The ride from Tangtse towards Lukung was very nice as well. Wanted to take lazy breaks many places. Kinda riding in between steep valley. But i am in a hurry. There seems to be no sigh of pagal nala. It only shows up like 3 kms from pangong lake. The water level is very less says the GREF workers who are now building a bridge across! I offroad down to the crossing and its kind like one feet for a few feet. Not much according to pagal nala standards at 3 pm. But i was in no mood to get my shoes wet. walked back to the workers and requested them to help me out. Actually i wanted their rubber boots for the crossing and save my leather ones. Two people accompanied me and held support at the back while i rode through feeling the cold water on my feet. It was all rocky and hands hurt. Get across and thank them with 100 bux together. Well my shoes are dry you know! But not much of a breather as it looks like it will rain. And i see kinda clear skies towards lake and i hurry up to ride out of the rain cloud. A couple mins and there i see the lake for the first time and what do you know sun i shining on the lake! and its vivid blue color. Was exited. But i see not deviation to Phobrang village. Dont tell me i have to cross pagal nala for that! Just nearing the lake sure enough there was a road going to the left towards Phobrang village. Ride out the lake and see the ECO huts to the right. With sun escaping from the clouds and shining on the lake, the first thing i wanted to do was to take some pix of the lake and ofcourse pose. After that went to the Eco huts and found the tent to be too disturbing in the wind. The winds had picked up pretty much. Settled for the room as i had to safe guard the stuff as well.

Now i for some much needed fluids and food. Pretty much lazed out the rest of the evening. After food went out to the lake again and this time got off the road and went to a camping spot where i could take the bike pretty close to the lake. Then what some photo session. Then comes this army jeep entertaining some civilians and the guy just drove reverse like 50-60 feet into the water. Well it was very shallow and solid. So my bike followed the suit but just went in some 3-4 feet. Wanted to keep the shoes dry u see. The wind was becoming pretty harsh and looked like it would rain any time. Stayed their quite some time and left when the sun hid behind the clouds. Rest of the evening just sat in the warm dining hall talking to other tourists who had come there and having hot food and hot lemon! Kinda felt like altitude is hitting me. Looks like i am the only biker for the day. Consulted with the drivers regarding my route plan for the eastern Ladakh. After dinner before going to the room saw the sky and its all stars! Walk away from the camp's lights and not seen such a clear sky in a long time. Could make out the Milky way galaxy as well. Tomm could be a big day either way if i am allowed to attempt M'la will have to see how things go.


Special parking for my bike at Hotel Mehak in Leh...





Small but cozy room...


Starting in the empty streets of Leh...


This is Shey palace on the way to Karu. This was the ancient capital of Ladakh...


See lot of Gonpas to my left...


Thats what it is...


Nice fast roads on the Leh Manali highway...





Reach Karu for the signboard...


Ride towards Sakti...


Some monastery...


The depression in the mountain range at the center of the pic is the Wari La...


Climbing up to Changla starts...


Leaving the Sakti village below....





The famous Changla ascent zigzag.


Bike already struggling and boy do i see switch backs high up!


At this point i was relegated to first and second gear, so Had to turn the air screw lean...


Going up and up...


As always the pass tops are bad roads...








Gets narrow nearing the top...


Almost there...


Made it to the Mighty Chang La... My phone says 17615 feet the same as Khardung La!!


The Chang La baba mandir...


Me there...


Forgot his name. He is a Siachen veteran who has completed his term there, Now on his way back to be posted in the plains. Helping the visitors with tea for now...





Ice on the other side...





Ice crystals...





A small frozen lake...


Nice place for a break...





See village below in the plains...


Mountain with an ice fall...


Going down to Durbuk...


In Durbuk village...


Village houses...


Wind mills but no wind today...


Road leading to Tangtse...


Fork to Lukung and Chushul...


Its a dramatic ride to Lukung between a valley...


Weather is not so good, but might help me with less water at pagal nala..


Road to Lukung...





Bridge being built on Pagal Nala...


But for now have to take the rough path...


Its doable but kinda still long for me... want my shoes dry...


The GREF workers who helped me with the crossing, actually i was more interested in their rubber boots!


Bike this side of pagal Nala....


First view of Pangong...


The sun is shining just on the lake giving it a glow...


Riding down to the Lake...


How many times i have seen this fork and dreamt about it and now finally my bike up there...


Its should be more like Lukung Chushul path!


Yeppie i made it....


With the sun behind the clouds... the color is not great...


I touch the Pangong waters!!


Some more posing by the lake....


Looks a bit dull under the clouds...


An army jeep daring into the lake....


The black bike gets inspired and goes into the lake too.. but not too far cos the owner wanted his shoes dry!


These guys had no clue where they were, it seems the army folks told them that the lake leads to pakistan and they actually believed them!


The pangong...


At a height of 13942 feet says my fone...


Me








The Eco huts where i stayed...


Changing colors of Pangong..


Stayed in room cos i had lot of things and it was windy outside...


Vertical travel for the day....

Day 137 - July 23 - Marsimek La !!

July23 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail: GPS Trail Maps

86 KMs Trip Meter 17712 KMs

When the alarm buzzes i see a bright light shining in the window. Thats directly sun hitting my window. Thought the day would be clear thinking about the clear sky yesterday. Once i go out i see lot of clouds around and the sunlight was short lived. Thought M'La would not happen today, as the weather was not clear and i am alone too. Any way lightened the bike and dumped all the stuff in the room and carried a few spares and tools. Started by 8am. Damn isnt it kinda late? Take the road to phobrang and the road soon goes away from the pangong lake. Stop for a pic and i see two army trucks coming towards me. Damn did they see me with the cam? Any way let them pass. The ride towards Phobrang was damn good. So wanted to stop for pix. Kinda like riding in desert but with huge mountains nearby. The sunlight was good. But i have to keep going and i was not sure of the distance to Phobrang village. Soon i caught up with the Army trucks and just followed them. There is no sign of check post. Did i miss it? i wondered. After a good 14 KMs of scenic ride i reach Phobrang. The trucks carry on towards M'La and go to the check post to try my luck with the permit. Was welcomed by a guy from karnataka at the gate. It was a small conversation in Kannada. He was pretty happy to talk in native language. Then i went in to meet the incharge. Gave the permit and what do you know, with out a fuss he says go ahead but dont go ahead of the La! I was told to leave any video equipment and i promptly said i dont have any video cam! Then its a go! The karnataka soldier wants long conversation and tells me that there of some 10 12 trucks more heading that way. Wow now thats wat i call a back up if things go wrong. Gives me some confidence.

Was so sure that i will not be let through that i was already planing where to get to by evening. But now i am on the way to M'la. Its offroad immediately and steep one with lot of soft sand. Into clutch play in no time. The next couple of kms was hard and wondered how far i could go like this. How much beating the bike can take.. Wished i had a partner for this stretch. Any way none of the disadvantages would make me turn back and i carried on. Thanks to the army trucks that went ahead i simply follow the fresh tracks assuming they would take the easiest tracks. Things eased out a bit and i ride on to the open space with smooth mountains on either side and wide openess. Loved to have a break there but wanted to push ahead as much as possible in good weather. The sunlight showing up intermittently. Cant control but for a couple of breaks for pix. At the end of this open space stretch i see the Army trucks ahead and are moving slowly and boy were they climbing. Thought altitude would come into play any time. With the path some times with stones and some times with soft sand cant gain any momentum and ride at max 20 kmph. Third gear was out of action before the next climb session. After a dip through some rocks section the climb starts bike is gasping immediately. Down to first gear already. Unscrewed the airscrew half a turn. Bike felt bettor in 2nd gear. After some time unscrewed half a turn more any way. Now i could ride some parts in 3 gear as well. Things looked encouraging. It was a smooth climb after that and the next open space was with grass and all. Even spotted a lone wild ass. Forced myself for a small break. Then i realized that i had brought nothing to eat, no chocolates, no fruit juice and had just water and i am kinda already hungry. This was really naive of me to forget the stuff at the room. This will tire me down quicker than it should once i run out of my breakfast! Carried on the momentum and suddenly it was all stones and with out realizing i have climbed a steep stones strewn section and the army truck tracks go straight. It looked lot more rough and steep. There was track to the left and a switch back and joining the main track. Walked to do a recce and found this one is much easier than the other one. And it was. It was 1st and 2 gear shuffling and reach the man track, and the rocks are not over and i see it for quite some distance more. I kinda think that after a 100 feet or so is the pass. Took rest and rode some feet and did the same. By now i could smell the engine burning. At the end of it all i see is a long plain and a final ascent to the pass. Now i really doubted if my bike could do it. Cos i had decided i wont be pulling and pushing the bike, if the bike gives up i will be turning back. The plain was rocky and followed the army trucks tracks. There seems to be some construction work going on near the pass with ice sheds and all but no one there. 1 and 2 gear make it to the base of the final ascent. There was a track going straight up which the army trucks had taken but there was another track with lot of switch backs. I happily take the switch backs and they were really gentle on the bike, had to use clutch only on the turn else 1st gear 20 kmph was taking me up. 1,2,3,4 or 5 switch back later there i am! atop Marsimek La. Really? i cant believe it. After all i have heard of people pushing their bikes as their bikes gave up and bikes sliding back etc etc. Guess the switch backs at the final ascent was made new which was easy on me and a light snow fall the previous night gave me bettor traction i guess. The first things i did was hugged my bike. It brought me up here all on its own with out me pushing it! Made it solo!

It was really euphoric moment. Did actually scream and jump in joy. By now i am very very hungry. But go berserk with the cam. After all the effort there is not fanfare, no board mentioning about the pass. The path on the other side of the pass looked very bad and slushy, the land scape was very different and on the darker side. Guess things are different on either side of the passes. Click almost everything there. By now the winds were picking up as it was already 12 noon. It was time to go back but its not over. Going back is no easier than going up. But kinda lil difficult also, as there is possibilities of loosing the front wheel. I kind feel more effort going down the steep sections. Take rest in between to calm my nerves. Now i could see quite some KMs of the ride back but there is no sigh of my backup 10 12 army trucks. So i am on my own now. I have not see one person after the leaving the phobrang check post. Now i actually keep following my own tire tracks which i made on way up. Now this was kinda experienced following the inexperienced. But the i had done good with the tracks and helped me on the way back. Now i can take breaks how much ever longer i want. Stop at the grassy open space and what i see is whole heard of Wild asses. Quite far but my cams zoom caught them for sure. Have plenty of tricky sections ahead. And my hunger is only increasing. I take some rest the moment i feel a bit tired. Winds are getting cold and the clouds look aggressive down south. No sunlight and kinda spoiling the photos. All the pix look dull and cant capture the dept of the place. Negotiate sections one by one and one more break at the other open space. Boy do i love this wide open spaces. Just after this is the final descent to the ITBP check post but its a long one and and more difficult. Lot of loose soft sand. Finally inching by i make it to the check post and breathed sigh relief. Why do we do such things?!! The guards invites me for lunch. But i feel i am bettor off heading back to the Eco huts and have food comfortably there. Now i can take pix of the way to Lukung. Reach there pretty tired.

Have lunch and sleep in the dining area for some rest. At like 3.30 thought of going to spangmik and back but the weather is not looking good. I wait outside for some improvement invain. Dont want to waste time in the morning for this. The manager Ashok says no point waiting for the weather. Well i hop on my bike and ride out towards spangmik. Couple of kms the road is over and it dirt trail now. Same old stones and stuff. Thought should be ok for 4-5 kms like this. But soon it got rocky and at one point it was like going on a dried up river bed with lot of small rounded stones! Walked a bit to see the right path, but did not really want to put myself into that, cos its a long lake and looks the same from every where. So i turn around and ride back till the tarmac. Stop and go near the water's edge and sit there for like an hour just looking at the lake. Never knew how time flew. Wanted to sit more time but hunger pangs was getting stronger so headed back to the Eco huts and rest of evening pretty much lazed in the dining hall. Thinking about tomm as to how the day would be. Will i get to Nyoma or what?


Looking back at Pangong before heading to Marsimek La...


Entering Phobrang village...


The landscape get stranger...


Did not take many pix before the village as i had to hurry up and this is first pic after the Phobrang village towards the M' La...


Its dry and empty....


Barren beauty...


Love to take breaks in these open spaces all alone...


Have to be carefull of these mud traps, else might loose the front wheel!


It gradually climbs up to the valley at the left...





See some grass now, hope it will give some oxygen for the bike!


Sandy switch backs are tricky...


Take more breaks...





Some stone section! No doubt this cant be termed a motorable road!


Some high altitude wild horses...





Its quite far compared to what cam captures...


Incoming steeper sections...


I walk up to check out the two trails to see which one is bettor...


I pick the left one though the army trucks had gone straight... It was lil longer and less stones!


I took and gave rest to the bike every 20 feet thinking this is the final ascent...


Hehe could only laugh cos it was still a long way and one more steep ascent left....


This wild ass may not help me if i drop my bike!


Some construction work going on there but no one is there...


The last set of switch backs are easy cos they are not very steep and bike was happily doing 20kmph in 1st gear. There was steep straight trail cutting across this switch backs, may be these are new!


Just one more switch back....


And we are there!!


Yup! i made it solo!


The broken info board..


This must be a record for high altitude vandalism...


Happy at my new throne!!


My fone does not even spare Marsimek La... it says 18334 feet against 18640!


The path ahead looks more rough and slushy with the melted snow...


Permitted side looks more pretty!


The small temple up there...


Zooming far ahead to the forbidden side...


Not much snow around...


Looking down to the path i came...


One last pic atop the Highest Bikable pass!


Riding down is not any easy have to fight gravity...





Searching for my own tracks!


The plain below looks beautifull....


Then i see a herd of Wild asses..


Break here...





A lone snow shed..


Now who did this???


I stick to the longer tracks and avoid short cuts...


Long way to ride back...


Its really great walking around here with emptiness everywhere...











Nearing the end of the dirt trail...


Leaving phobrang village...


Colorful Urgo village...





Are these goats hairy!


Pretty pangong awaiting...


Crazy mountains!


Its desert!


Some ducks in the pangong.... they live off small prown like insects that live in the lake i guess...








Riding towards Spangmic and road ends...


Another bird in the lake...


Its gets a bit stony!


A lot more...


No water but still did not want to cross all these loose stones...


Just walked a bit further...


Leaving the bike behind...


The Spangmik camps...


Decide to head to Chushul via Tantse no way i am taking this rough trail! Turn back and sit beside the lake for like an hour. It was great time spent there...


Bike waiting above....


The Majestic lake...


Sunlight lets me play...


Climb to Marsimek La....

Very nice write up there !! Day 136

this is an awesome trip and im inspired tooo...... Great bro.....

Good log there! The army guy who served you the complimentary tea at Chang La is Mr. Harpreet Singh. You can update your log.

Thanks PKM for making me live the Marsmikla adventure again.
Kudos to you for making it there solo

great going Praveen........ u mentioned that u saw people who are doing & achieving bigger feats........ now I can understand what u wanted to say ........ but on a bicycle ........

Day 138 - July 24 - Lukung to Chushul

July24 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail: GPS Trail Maps

132 KMs 17840 KMs

Hardly had a proper look on the map and dunno how but thought decided on Nyoma as the destination for the day. Got up pretty early but with the added chore of tying the petrol cans my bike loading time has increased. Scuttle out by 8.30 am after having a last look at the Pangong lake. Pagal nala is in for the menu for deserts. Reached the rough path and start of Pagal nala. There water was not according to its standards, but for a guy with Nala phobia it was too much. Wanted to keep shoes dry so tied them to the grab rail and wore just the gaiters. It was a long crossing over lot of rounded stones. Managed it huffing and puffing and boy was the water cold! Glad that the shoes are dry. Then wait for feet to dry and then wear shoes. The Nala crossing process took like 20 mins! Any was i did not seem to be in hurry and started taking the pix of the ride to Tangse as i was in a hurry the when i coming here the other day. Its strange, one min its sand dunes and next its marsh land. Took many photo breaks. Reached Tangtse like 10.30 am. Well the BSNL tower there is still a show piece. The internet is not open yet. Wanted to try my lucky at the Brigade for a call to dad. It was like a good 3 kms towards Leh. A long walk inside the brigade and the phone's out! Chat with the army personnel a bit and ride back to have some food. All this makes sure that its 12 by the time i can ride out. Even fill up petrol and i again have 25 ltrs of petrol. Request the owner of Naamsay guest house for the internet, as he was in charge. wanted to atleast send SMS through yahoo to my dad. It seems the watch man locked the main gate and went off some where. Any way since he wanted to help me out, we both jumped over a wall and he started the generator and computers. It was slow but served the purpose. Thanked him a lot and left to Chushul.

It was looking late already. Chushul may take 3 hours and crossing Tsaga La close to evening did not seem ok. But wanted to see about it later. I am now in the road where tourists dont normally venture. Foreign tourists are not allowed so hardly any traffic. The weather was already threatening. Atleast the road was good. The landscape was going crazy and the weather adding to the dramatic effect. It was cloudy and could rain any time. It seemed that as and when i looked back it was raining there! At one point i was made to get into my rain gear. Stopped many times just clicking around. Almost no traffic at all. Prolly saw one per hour. Soon rode out of the rain cloud. I seem to be heading up a valley. It was wide open space and but could not enjoy taking leisure breaks as the weather was not looking good and i had a long way to go. I see some blue holes in the sky ahead and that was encouraging. 33 kms before Chushul, there is a ITPB check post and Jogender singh was very impressed by my journey and hosted very well. Tea, biscuits, lots of chocolates, tinned pinapple, jalebi and what now. When i said my tummy will go for a toss, i was even given a bottle of eno! Guess not many visitors around and they are pretty happen to see new faces. But cant just ride ahead, have to get a confirmation before i can go. Some more wait for that. And finally i get a go ahead by like 3.30 and soon its starts raining! I was told there it was long long time since it rained here else it only snows. Well i am the raingod you see!

The rain lettoff and i bid byes to Jogender and ride ahead. Its kinda lika pass but very gradual and when the decent starts it was actually like 5000+ meters! yet it was not a pass. The weather on the other side did not look good at all. The winds picked up like crazy and i could see rain clouds advancing from the mountains and coming over what looked like a village below. It was actually Chushul brigade and the chusul was to the left of it. Some 15 kms to go its raining on me now. Its windy n and freezing. Did not want to get my leather gloves wet so wore surgical gloves. Which kinda very uncomfy. Could of switch backs down and the rains out! Ride down to the town by like 4.30 and it was decided that i will stay in chusul today. Went to the ITBP check post and the same questions and surprises and nice treatment with tea and biscuits. They even cut the Q and let me make a call to Bangalore! I was told if i dont get acco at the village i could come there.

Went to the village and no place to stay near the mandir and went to Daak Bungalow. But the watch man had gone some where. The winds were terrible now. Did not feel like going any where and preferred to wait there. The weather was really crazy with hard blowing wind, cold and light rain. Sat by the side of the building sheltering from the wind. Waited for like an hour while the watchman's wife went to lookout for her husband. Thought of riding out to ITPB but the weather was very bad and was in no mood to ride even a couple of kms. After quite some time the watch man was spotted. I am escorted to him by his daughter. He was busy tying a run away yak bull! Stay is possible at the Daak bungalow but food to be eaten at the hotel. Man i did not want to walk out in that weather. Any way when i went to checkin i was escorted to another building and the one i was thinking of was for VIPs only. Any way what i got was very good. It was like house with no kitchen. Settled in for some rest. The watchman Tashi came by 7.30 pm and walked me to the hotel and looked like the hotel only prepared Maggie. There are hardly any tourists to the village except stray Indians like me. I am introduced to other as Indian tourist! While foreign tourist are not allowed here at all. Any way he was very helpful. Even helped my fill up my stock of petrol. Even met cops from the police check post and gave them the copy of the permit. I was warned not to stray of the main path and not to take trails going to the left else i would endup in China! Its all offroading till Tsaga village some 45 kms and even a couple of Nalas thrown in. Must say i was bit scared of the route to be taken tomm. But that will not make me turn back so crashed in the cozy bed for the night.


Thats Ashok the Helpful manager at Eco Huts Lukung...


One last look at pangong before i ride away...


It looks cloudy where i am going..


There Pangong hides behind the mountains...


Pagal Nala crossing again.. this time did it on my own...


New black top around here...


Its desert around here...





A local women picking up dried up yak dung...


Now what is a Gama ????


Its desert one min ...


And marsh land the next!!!


Not going to climb the mountains, the road takes a left after the mountain to the left!


I am not married you see


Is that a giant candy mountain?? i was hungry you see...


These guys were spying from above as i take a break!


A Shepard women...


Riding into the kinda unknown... this is after Tangtse towards Chushul....


The weather having its go at the nearby mountains...





Its already raining some places..!!


Some white tops...


Looks like a baby glacier in the middle..





Now this is a fantastic wide open meadow....


Jogender singh who hosted me very very well while i wait for confirmation to go ahead....


Weather looks bleak!


Leaving the valley meadow behind...


Spot a lot of these wild asses...





Another green meadow...








This is kinda pass but not recorded as a pass, or it it?


The temple up there..





Weather moving in from the mountains to the right...


The valley being washed... i need to be riding there in some time!!


Crossing a dry nala...


The Chushul village being showered!


I thought it was Chushul village but it was an ITBP post...


Here's the chushul town...


She wanted to pose for cam in return for chocolate or something, which i came to know later... No i am such a bad guy will not part with my chocolate!


Taking shelter from the wind and rain hiding behind this guest house...


Vertical travel for the day....

Dear Praveen....

did you by any chance get the oppurtunity to visit chumur which is supposedly the southmost tip of the changthang plateau....
I am only saying this based on the movie by gaurav jaani