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* Day 1: Goa - Mangalore - Sakleshpur
It was around this time when I started getting this strange feeling in my gut: Why am I doing this trip? I was better off at home comfortable. Never got this feeling any time before. However it lasted only a short while and I had already cruised myself to the Goa border check post by then.
Reached Karwar in time for the sunrise
By then, the sun started to shine hard as traffic increased. The NH17(NH 66) is mostly scenic and has that coastal touch. But its dense truck population coupled with narrow roads demands extra cautiousness. You tend to have a slightly slower pace than most other highways. You may hit good speeds but you also brake that much.
The busy stretch of tarmac passing by Maravanthe beach is a beautiful sight to stop by. It has a river on one side and the mighty Arabian Sea on the other. Its beauty is difficult to capture on the lens and can be best experienced by driving by.
This is what the NH17 in Karnataka mostly looks like
Here on I started a not-that-great road(NH48) until Sakleshpur where I needed to deviate right for Madikeri. The NH48, is initially riddled with potholes and parts of it are concrete in the ghat section. You find a lot of heavy trucks plying on this narrow road more than what I've come to see of the NH17. Blind overtaking, even large LPG carriers not knowing their potential overtaking each other like some sedans. One ends up driving like them to survive there.
Amidst all this mayhem it gets dark and after asking for Sakleshpur I finally reach there by 8.00pm. I relax for some time and have a quick dinner in the form of some hot potato chips and chikki, thinking to call it a day after some time as I had decided not do any night riding.
After confirming with many folks around I took the easy-to-go-unnoticed right for Madikeri. I was then moving ahead while searching for a place to sleep and what I realized was that I entered the woods where the chances of finding a soul was very little. As I rode further into the forest it got colder. Slowly people started to appear and I breathed a sigh of relief when I entered a village only to find it shut past 8:00pm and its inhabitants just strolling along the road after dinner. No point asking for a room. So where will I spend the night? Simply did I ride past sunset. Right now I just want lay down my head and let this night pass. That's it. Nothing else matters. Thoughts like these start creeping in when you are solo and body fatigue has kicked in. That's when I randomly started asking people "Bhagwan ka mandir hai kya aas pass?" Of course to spend the night, nothing else. Some people pointed out to a temple nearby when suddenly one man showed more interest and asked why am I searching for a place and where am I come from. After answering his questions he pointed out a small canteen sort of which is owned by him and was right besides us. It was a gaada with benches put for sitting and the whole thing covered by plastic on 3 sides, leaving the entrance open. I was more than happy to take it as I said earlier, nothing else mattered. I thanked this polite guy for his kind gesture while he proceeded back home. I parked my motorcycle in a way that covered the entrance to prevent any form of intrusions at night. Good for me, I carried my blanket and a spare bed sheet. Circumstances knew maybe I would spend the night by the roadside. After settling down I tried to make a call home and unfortunately this place had almost no network coverage. So I sent a home a message about my whereabouts.
Hold on, my day still hadn't ended. I casually removed my phone to capture this place where I would be spending the night and saw battery 4%. Plugged in my powerbank and confirm charging. After a while I notice the phone wasn't charging anymore. The powerbank gave up. Unplugged and plugged, unplugged and plugged the cord again but in vain. The powerbank would charge for 1sec and then stop. What went wrong? It was working when I picked it at home. In all this, my poor phone died a slow death to 0%. I'm now left in the middle of the night in the middle of an unknown village with a dead phone. "Wow! Be calm", I exclaimed. "Let tomorrow's day take care of itself", I said to myself and went to sleep.
* Day 2: Sakleshpur - Madikeri - Khushalnagar - Sullia
The night was too cold and I literally felt every bit of it making me uncomfortable throughout the night. Finally the chill itself wakes me up at 6.00am. I didn't sleep well though but it was enough to start my new day and dissolve my tiredness of yesterday. I left with my bag packed and geared up. I needed to find a place to wash my face, eat something and charge my phone as well. I exited this foggy village and stopped few meters ahead because I saw a tap by the roadside. Next to it was a small home with a mother and son milking their cows in the backyard. They quickly signaled me that the tap which I was now staring at all this while does not work. They asked me if I need anything and I ask for some water. The boy rushed out with a tumbler of water for me and it sufficed brushing my teeth and washing my face. I thank them and leave from that village. I wish I knew Kannada just to thank that village for the hospitality. Especially the family that gave me water did not know any language other than Kannada. They must be thinking I'm going to Madikeri as that's all they understood from my mouth.
I sturdily reached a small bus stand which presented directions for Somwarpet and Madikeri as straight 30km and 60km respectively. The former was the only town en route to Madikeri. Here on the roads are narrow but fine, passing through different villages, fields and forests. So, I could neither charge my phone nor eat something while my stomach already started giving out signs of hunger. I reached Somwarpet and Madikeri is only about 35 kms away. Little did I know what was in store ahead. This final 30kms or so stretch leading to Madikeri was fun filled with twisted roads going uphill, passing through coffee estates, scant traffic and what more do I want then pure leisure and sheer riding pleasure. And being a narrow road it challenged me to keep my lane throughout. This is why I ride.
Too sorry I couldn't click any pictures thanks to my powerbank.
Finally to settle score with my stomach which I had been ignoring all this while, I made a stop in Madikeri at the first restaurant visible. Inside it looked more like someone's house, in which was a woman who would prepare meals right beside you. She had a kind and warm approach. She kept talking and asking about where I'm from, what I'm doing. It must have been one of the longest breakfasts. 1hr maybe. I enjoyed the coffee she served more for the fact that it was something homemade. Adjacent was a mobile shop run by her son where I also got to charge my phone and make a call home. It's important to inform home about your whereabouts at least to someone who understands what you're doing.
It was 9am by then and I left for Mandalpatti. Mandalpatti is one of the highest peaks in Coorg. It has a series of hillocks. The road to the peak is curvy, narrow and virtually nonexistent, requires off-roading but gives you breathtaking views of the neighboring peaks in all their greenery and is worth visiting. On the way was a deviation that led to Abbey Falls which I had no interest in so kept heading for the peak. The road to Mandalpatti goes uphill and downhill often and had a few nice views but the condition of the road is more like in neglected state. Maybe it prepares you for the off-roading at Mandalpatti.
The road to Mandalpatti
I continued straight for Mandalpatti trusting the milestones written in Kannada till I reached the end of the road. From this point is a dusty trail path that leads to the Mandalpatti peak. The only vehicles you'll see treading this path are a couple of classic jeeps operated by the local tour guides. They would charge a fee and carry tourists to the view point and back. A few motorcyclists could also be seen struggling in the distant. I also met a few young boys who had come on motorcycles. We pay Rs. 10 each which is an entry fee to proceed further. We remained together initially and was fun tackling the dirt till we split. The entire trail was just mud. I would either loose traction or lose my hold. Hardly into the trail I reached a point where I got caught up in the trail and my rear tyre stubbornly refused to take me ahead. As much as I throttled, the rear would just spin and I wouldn't move an inch. It was until I turned my bike around by dragging the front wheel off was I able to come out of the pit which my rear tire had nicely carved and nested in. A couple of meters ahead my motorcycle refused to climb up. This time, the narrow front tire would just loose traction sliding left and right or back and forth. I had to back off a meter and steadily accelerate all the way up the climb. Now going down I happen to use the front brake and the bike quickly responded with a slide alerting me to keep away from the front brake throughout the trail. Amidst all this drama I was thankful for having a light bike like the P180.
I reached a place which had a board put up saying Pushpagiri Forest Reserve, when I realized that I still haven't reached the peak as I could see the trail leading further so I took a break. That's when I meet a few guys who had come from Bangalore on motorcycles. It was good to see them all geared up. They were returning back from the peak so I found out that I have completed 80% of it already. We exchange wishes and proceed further. One of them was actually on a RC390 which got me thinking this guy is crazy. Things are surely not easy on the track focused RC. Nevertheless, I started and soon got to know, the rest 20% left was equally as tough as the terrain as the previous. To begin with a steep Downhill which at first sight scares you with its deep plunge, keeping in mind the condition of the trail. Use the rear brake and you could slide like Santa and his reindeers on the snow. Carefully modulating the cutch (hovering around the friction zone) was the only way out, all this while keeping both my feet on the ground. Kept doing this and by now I was able to see the end of the trail, couple of motorcycles and classic jeeps parked at the foot of a small mountain. A 2min hike up this mountain is the Mandalpatti view point where you can see the entire mountain rage of Coorg I think.
I parked my bike and just relax, soaking in the moments like a sponge dipped in the waters of Madalpatti. Today's trail riding had been fun, rewarding and taught me a lot, all throughout. This is why I ride.
It's about 11.40am by then and I began to return. Returning back was much of a confident task compared to a while ago where I was struggling to get a grip on the track. A sense of pride was slowly sipping in now.
This is what the trails looked like mostly
Steep climb & Steep descend
Steep descend & Road to Mandalpatti
Near Mandalpatti View Point & Rear tyre painted by the trail ride
I returned back to Madikeri at about 12.30pm and headed towards the Mysore highway to visit the Golden Temple at Bylekuppe which is about 30kms from Madikeri. Many will tell you it's a place apart and feels like mini Tibet. One is welcomed by Buddhist Monasteries and Monks who have inhabited this place for years.
Just before the turnoff to the temple I stopped at a restaurant at Kushalnagar for lunch, which was reasonable enough. Roads had been good so far. I leave at about 2pm and reach the temple in no time. Thanks to the auto rickshaw who asked me to follow him when I asked for directions.
The place truly is different. Let the images do the talking.
The temples are just spectacular. Silence is the key here
Finally at about 3pm I set out for Madikeri all this while gleaming about the beautiful architecture of the temples.
Back when I reached Madikeri city I felt like spending the rest of the time just chilling around until the sun goes down. So I followed a board that read Raja's Seat. This place is known to tourists as Sunset point with a nice park to relax. After wandering around here and there, I spend some time with myself and my thoughts while walking around aimlessly. This is my favorite time pass. It helps me focus and value the moment better and of course time also passes faster.
I was having coffee sitting beside my bike when a man arrives in style, in front of me, parks his bike and goes to meet someone. He looked like some film star from the yesteryears and his bike also an equivalent. My curiosity led me to have a look at his bike and to my surprise it had inscriptions all over the bike. Some in Kannada some in English but it all spoke about humanity, service and organ donation. In about a while the man comes down to his bike and I ask over what is it all about. He plainly started by saying he does not live for himself but for others. Didn't get it so he explains me saying he has a group that dedicate themselves to the service of others which include monetary help or blood donation. What they earn they spend on the needy and accident victims. He further enlightens me that we mortals are going to leave behind all our earthly riches when we die but while we are still alive the best wealth to attain is in the service of others. He seems to be doing it all for God whom he feels is answerable to. He is neither bothered by any religion. He was happy to know that I rode all the way here. And I also was happy at his prophecy that I would be doing something great one day. We went on speaking until he asked me to take a picture of him and he had to leave. He is known in the locality as 'Blood Bhai' and he's so popular that all this while we were speaking many locals passing by would greet him.
It was amazing speaking to this man. I'll always remember what he said. People like these are what I like to hear from. It makes me feel like I climbed the hills to hear God whisper. And yes, whisper words of wisdom is what He did. This is why I ride.
Rajas Seat & Toy train service entertaining tourists
Wise words from "Blood Bhai" sprinkled a distinct flavor to my trip
With a wonderful day coming to an end I leave Madikeri with happy memories. Truly a fun filled day.
I took the Mangalore highway with plans to halt on the way for the night. The road there was an unending ghat going downhill. On the way I stopped at what looked like a waterfall to take a break and cool down the brakes. The last thing I wanted was to get stranded with the disk pads getting fused due to overheating. It happed once, though. One can control overheating by pumping both the brakes alternately instead of just pressing and holding the lever but you eventually get tired doing it.
I was parking the bike when I meet a boy from Goa who was returning to Mangalore from Madikeri with his colleague. They study in Mangalore it seems and he identified me by the registration plate. We were glad to bump into each other. Later we greet each other in local language and set off.
It started getting dark by then as I had just completed the ghats. Searching for a room was on my mind now. Several towns later I reached a place called Sullia where lodges were easy to spot. I called it a day and took up a room at a decent enough lodge. I had bath, ate stomach full and went to bed right away.
How I wish days were like this. Wake up daily only to follow your passion the whole day. No time for any nonsense. But well, life isn't that way, isn't it.
The lodge where I spent the night. That's my jacket with high-viz vest on
* Day 3: Sullia - Kasaragod - Mangalore - Goa
I woke up at about 5.30am the next morning, without an alarm (I don't know how. Passion maybe). I was very much relaxed and fresh compared to the previous morning when I spent the night outside. And after lazily packing my stuff and mounting my bag I left. I decided to go via Kerala instead of the usual Madikeri to Mangalore route. After Sullia comes Jalsoor from where is a left turn off that leads to Kerala through Cherkala and Kasargod. At Jalsoor the Cherkala road had a gate which opened at 7.00am. And man was I right to opt this route. The road was amazing as I passed through a forest. It welcomed me with the sound of birds chirping and some river gushing nearby.
After Cherkala you start entering city limits and cities means traffic starts. From Kasaragod I was on the NH17(NH 66) that leads to Goa. At Mangalore you experience hideous traffic especially in peak commuting hours.
Cherkala
Heavy traffic jam just after exiting Mangalore
When I was riding from Mangalore to Udupi at about 10.30am I started to feel sleepy all of a sudden almost prompting me to shut my eyes. I quickly parked my bike and rested for a while. I don't know how that sleepy crown descended on me, in spite of sleeping the previous night. Always take a break in such situations. That's the bravest thing to do.
Somewhere after Bhatkal when I was riding, the intensity of this ride started to strike me hard. I started to recollect all what I rode so far and what memories I'm taking back home. I was glad to complete this ride without any misfortunes and thanked God for helping me complete this experience. I have elaborated more on this in the 'What have I learnt' part below.
Reached home at about 7.30pm filled with joy. Completed about 1200 kilometers, still not exhausted though.
Udupi to Mangalore is mostly done up in 4 lane
Maravanthe return Stop for lunch
Turnoff to Gokarna Just missed the sunset at Karwar
What we should do: My opinion about a ride
Safety
Gear yourself up. It is of prime importance that we wear our safety gear and not just on a long ride but every time we take our bike out. All The Gear All The Time (ATGATT). I will not stress on this more as this is the obvious step to take before heading out. Also we are the torch bearers of all the geared up riders out there, people watch us as an example so don't be impatient or a maniac on the streets.
Have your luggage securely tied up. You do not want to have that half feeling of something going wrong on the way.
Make a short prayer as in talk to God before you leave.
Good departure
Have a good night's sleep prior to a ride. It alters your mood throughout the ride and you end up making wiser decisions on the road.
Keeping your body prepared also is necessary. For those not visiting the gym like me, at least basic exercises a couple of days prior to a ride is needed as you are about to go out and strain yourself.
Leave as early as possible. Before sunrise of course. It reduces all the haste and keeps you in good mood and good pace.
Ride slower
I somehow feel that a slow bike is much better. The more slower you ride the more you feel a place. There are people who actually cycle or walk through far off places just to feel the place much better. Don't pass by places, pass through places. Rushing by only makes the destination more important than the journey, more like a point A to B situation, like we daily commute. Anyone can rush, even truckers do that. We are better off travelling by car or train but we choose a motorcycle to experience all the elements, right? That should not change.
Be prepared
Take it lightly
What I mean is that when things go wrong don't panic, remember all that you rode till now, it's an achievement coz while others are at home you chose to go out and take this risk. Think like that.
Be calm when you miss that direction. It's all part of the plan.
Be calm when time got wasted and are you're now behind schedule. Don't faithfully follow a schedule, things change when you are out there.
Be friendly and down to earth
Be friendly and down to earth for the ride. You will be surprised by the awe on the faces and the hospitality some people have to offer. It doesn't hurt to tell people where you are from, what you are up to or why you do such crazy things. Of course don't cross the limits and don't let others do.
Make a difference
Allow such leisure rides to make a difference in oneself. Don't just do it and forget about it like: Oh I had the time of my life in the 3 days! And as days passed by slowly got carried away by the ordinary things of this world and this extraordinary experience slowly faded away. It's easy to do that just like a movie. We watch 3hrs, feel good then forget about it. Let rides bring a change in oneself. Carry forward all the good things like determination, positivity and all that's learnt in the ride and apply them in everyday life. Coz it's so easy to have a great time and then forget a while later. Use such experiences to motivate oneself that if you can do such things you are capable of doing much greater things maybe outside the world of motorcycling too. Remember, it doesn't matter what you ride or how many kilometers you ride or how many days you spend. It's just the experience. That raw experience.
Documentation
Document such experiences through photos or travelogues. You may or may not make it public but surely relive those moments. Heck it can even remind you in low times that you are much greater than you think you are.
What have I learnt: The message I take home
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