Tweet
Re: Chronicles Of A Lone Biker | The Big One | Bhutan 2017 | Dominar 400 Adventures
Glad you liked it. Stay tuned, lot more to come.
Oh well only the highway is good. And it has been great since 2010, which I experienced on my GQ ride. However, once you enter a city, its a nightmare, and I gues has always been.
Thnka for those words. They keep me motivated.
Thanks
Ah!
This is what I wanted to hear. Thanks. Please subscribe
----consecutive posts auto-merged-----
Day 2 | 22.06.2017 | Khalilabad – Siliguri | 800+km
I was supposed to head east. This would mean I would be losing day light faster and Siliguri was more than 750km away. I knew it would be a long day, and a following short night. As tomorrow, I head towards a place unknown, still, to many. The bed was comfortable last night and I found it better to oversleep a bit. After all, the highways ahead were good and I could keep good speeds. Moreover, it was just about covering distances and the landscape was too routine.
Lazily crawled out of the bed and packed the luggage before starting the morning chores. Took me about 20 minutes, 10 minutes less than yesterday, to mount the luggage and I was sweating like a pig already. The weather was humid, though the skies were clear. I was on the road soon, thanks to the stay option right on the highway. Not only its convenient, saves a lot of time crawling out of cities in the morning when everyone is either lazing around or just rushing. On the road and doing great speeds already, the day looked promising! Planned a breakfast stop at Muzaffarpur which was around 260km from this place, a 4 hours’ ride and perfect time to have breakfast, if all goes well. After all, on the road, you need to expect the unexpected.
Just 85km into the ride and come across a gate which looked unfamiliar. However, I had a faint memory in the back of my mind as to what it was. Not that I’ve been here before, but the legendary education system feeds some in-erasable data into the grey cells. I was at Kushinagar, a place where Lord Buddha achieved Nirvana. Stood right opposite the gate shooting a timelapse post which I decided to move on. Struck a conversation meanwhile with a local post which I was certain I need to “witness” this place. After all, it was just a matter of 30 minutes. Who know when am I coming back?
Took a detour and visited the temple. A magnanimous statue of reclining Buddha resting under a yellow shroud was a sight to behold. Post a couple of pictures, it was time to go. But before that, a marvellous sample of engineering during that time left an everlasting impression on my mind and with every step, I wanted to stop and suffice the sutterbug in me.
Back on the roads, I was greeted by Bihar with open arms. A bad stretch of the road continued for about a couple of kilometers and it was open highway again. The mercury was rising, the stomach was grumbling and my throat was screaming for some water. It was around 12ish that I stopped by a small road side dhaba and satiated my thirst and hunger. Never wanted to move on, the rickety furniture and almost dead fan was such a respite. But the show must go on!
Rest was just another highway ride till Araria before the machine showed low fuel. Inquired about the way to Siliguri from this place while tanking up and was routed to a single lane highway, which was best avoided considering the approaching dusk and less time. Although this route would take fewer hours as per google maps, the other route was a well built 4 lane highway.
Was somehow routed to the "faster" single lane route and immediately regretted it looking at the potholes, animals and humans mushrooming from everywhere alike! Taking a U turn was one of the best decisions of this ride and by the time the four lane highway took me to Bagdogra, it was dark already. The last 22 odd kilometers from Bagdogra to Siliguri was real pain with no sign of street light and crater deep potholes! Finally called it a day at Hotel Diamond, Hill Cart Road, Siliguri. Just a few hours sleep and I head to Bhutan tomorrow! It was simply a great feeling.
Some pics for the day:
Vlog for the day:
Day 3 | 23.06.2017 | Siliguri - Phuentsholing | 170+ km
Every second holds a different experience for you once you're traveling. Far away from home, I was in the North-East! I knew it would be daylight once I wake up right last night and was excited to see the same. The day broke in very early. I just had a short nap of about 4-5 hours as few hours last night was spent talking to a complete stranger who gave me some tips about the the ride today.
I peeped out of the door and boom it was dawn already...right at 5 in the morning. But it was drizzling and made me worried a bit as I was unsure of the road conditions. Thought it to be a hilly ride that would take time to cover 170 odd kilometers today. The luggage was left mounted on the bike last night, so it saved me about 20 minutes and I was on the road in no time. It was like riding in another world all together. Back home, one would still be in darkness and I was all enlightenment for me (pun intended).
Being previously advised about taking the "coronation bridge" route via Sevok, I had no choice to make and headed straight to "another country". A place where I would meet friends after long, a place where people are happy, a place never seen. But not to forget, there was a timeline that I had to follow and missing the deadline would mean 2 days right at the border with little to do than loitering around, getting drunk and sleeping. Friends would be there to receive me at Phuentsholing, riding all the way from Thimphu, a 6 hours ride. What beautiful people, equally excited to see me as I am to see them.
Few images to share before I describe the aura at the border:
Post crossing the Jaldapara National Park, the senses were soon blown away with narrow streets, chaos, maddening traffic and faint never-seen-before architecture tucked away in the mountains, still distant. "That definitely has to be Bhutan"...I said to myself, thanks to the "knowledge and advice potion" that I was made to swallow by friends from Bhutan before the ride commenced. Snaking through the traffic, I glanced upon the clock, clearly running 30 minutes behind Bhutan standard Time (the time zone hence forward). Exactly 8.30 by my clock. This means I'm late already. The immigration office opens and closes by 9.00 am and 3.00 pm BST respectively.
I was almost there, and without even asking for directions, I could make out where to go. After all, hours and days were spent looking at the images, videos and google satellite view. Just when I turned right from the junction, I spotted the gate. THIS WAS IT!
I was finally at the entrance! This trip was planned, maybe, in 2010...even before I met my friends from Bhutan. Look where the world has brought me, right here, this was the time, this was a dream come true. Parked the bike, recorded a short info video for the channel and was immediately shouted upon by the Bhutanese police official, a shrewd affair that would continue, for atleast, some days.
What follows now is an event-by-event description of how Bhutan Treated me on our very first date.
So I was waiting at the petrol pump for one of my friends who was to come and assist me with the permit process, what a kind gesture. Get used to such kindness and this would continue all the way till the exit. Being stuck with something professionally important, two of his associates were sent for the rescue. Filling up forms was easy, yet confusing. I had to rush to places to get the photocopies done and get my passport size photographs clicked. It was sweltering hot. Meanwhile Shova and Sangam, the associates obliged to take care of the belongings. And to my horror, I was just not able to find my Voter's ID! And I was not carrying any other ID. Called up the hotel and confirmed that I have left it there. While I was looking for a photocopy of the same, just in case, I luckily found my passport and was not good to go.
Finally the form was filled, photocopies attached and the endless wait began. Meanwhile there were two more bikers on an All India ride and wanted to hit Bhutan too. One of them got his permit rejected! The reason? "As per the new rule, we don't allow bikers anymore". Isn't that lame? I too was wearing my Youtube t-shirt, quickly changed it whatever I caught hold off from the saddle bags that were still tied with bungee chords.
It finally was my turn, the first question, why are you traveling alone? Answered. "Show me your hotel booking". I did not have one. Called up one of my friends from Thimphu from a borrowed phone. Mine had no network service. I was told I, along with three other friends were booked in Hotel Druk, sharing the boundary with immigration office. My friend from Phuentsholing, Dechen, sent me an email confirmation. "This won't work", said the immigration official. "We need proper booking with you name, hotel stamp and sign" he added. Called up Dechen again and I headed towards Hotel Druk. The VP signed one for me, I thanked him from the bottom of my heart. Another kind gesture going extra mile just to ensure I don't face any trouble.
The immigration official was shocked to see the document which mentioned my stay in Phuenntsholing and Thimphu. But I felt they were determined to reject my permit. Now I was asked to give my itinerary in written. Isn't that stupid? Their country, their laws, I respected and jotted down my itinerary. Was told to wait again. The time was running out and it was already 12ish. Mind you, I need to get my bike permit done as well, from the RSTA office, a 5 minutes ride from this place.
While I waited, another friend from Thimphu joined me and it was such a relief to see him. Then I was asked to "appear" in front of a senior official and the entire experience was more than humiliating! I really wanted to leave and get back to India patiently, a right there and then. It was like being probed and interrogated like a criminal. "What is your profession?", "you will go and sell your products?", "why do you want to visit Bhutan?", "Who all are there in your family?" and what not. Though I answered all of them very patiently, I was fuming inside.
Anyhow, I was granted a permit and was now supposed to get the fingerprint scanned at the immigration counter. checking the clock almost held me by surprise, it was 1.00pm already and its their lunch hour. They open back at 2.00. A polite request to one of the girls at the counter for issuing me a permit came back with a befitting reply "whatsoever, sir, it's out lunch hour, I'm sorry". "I need to get the permit for the bike too at the RSTA", I added...no luck, same cold shoulder.
So I had an hour to kill, fingers crossed...I did not want to spend two days at the border as they only open on Monday, today being a Friday. My friends and I went to a nearby restaurant for lunch as I was hungry and did not have anything since morning. Got comfortable as it would take some time for the food to be served, that's how things work here. Be patient, life is more laidback here. By the time the food was served and we started munching, it was 2:00 pm already. I simply ruched to the immigration office and got my permit exactly at 2:30 pm.
All this while, my friends from Thimphu were an hour away from Phuentsholing. My friend and I rushed to the immigration office after bidding adieu to Sangam. Halfway through, I realized I don't have my wallet with me! I must have left it at the immigration office. And we could not just turn around, it being a one way. Finally I found the wallet at the immigration counter. 2:45 by the clock, and photocopies were still pending.
The RSTA building is 5 mins drive from the immigration office. Once there, we had to climb up and down to find the "Room No. 9" and the accounts. Paid INR 700 for 7 days permit and was finally given a go ahead at exactly 2.59 pm. I was the last one that day!
Post the permit, there was nothing much to do. Just checked into the hotel, and waited for friends. Post that it was just eat, drink and be merry.
Vlog of the day:
<span data-blogger-escaped-style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">
Originally posted by Issac Praveen
View Post
Originally posted by amods
View Post
Originally posted by Shivanshu
View Post
Originally posted by Kapil Kumar
View Post
Nice shots 
Love the pictures
Love the pictures
Originally posted by sajalsheth
View Post
This is what I wanted to hear. Thanks. Please subscribe
----consecutive posts auto-merged-----
Day 2 | 22.06.2017 | Khalilabad – Siliguri | 800+km
I was supposed to head east. This would mean I would be losing day light faster and Siliguri was more than 750km away. I knew it would be a long day, and a following short night. As tomorrow, I head towards a place unknown, still, to many. The bed was comfortable last night and I found it better to oversleep a bit. After all, the highways ahead were good and I could keep good speeds. Moreover, it was just about covering distances and the landscape was too routine.
Lazily crawled out of the bed and packed the luggage before starting the morning chores. Took me about 20 minutes, 10 minutes less than yesterday, to mount the luggage and I was sweating like a pig already. The weather was humid, though the skies were clear. I was on the road soon, thanks to the stay option right on the highway. Not only its convenient, saves a lot of time crawling out of cities in the morning when everyone is either lazing around or just rushing. On the road and doing great speeds already, the day looked promising! Planned a breakfast stop at Muzaffarpur which was around 260km from this place, a 4 hours’ ride and perfect time to have breakfast, if all goes well. After all, on the road, you need to expect the unexpected.
Just 85km into the ride and come across a gate which looked unfamiliar. However, I had a faint memory in the back of my mind as to what it was. Not that I’ve been here before, but the legendary education system feeds some in-erasable data into the grey cells. I was at Kushinagar, a place where Lord Buddha achieved Nirvana. Stood right opposite the gate shooting a timelapse post which I decided to move on. Struck a conversation meanwhile with a local post which I was certain I need to “witness” this place. After all, it was just a matter of 30 minutes. Who know when am I coming back?
Took a detour and visited the temple. A magnanimous statue of reclining Buddha resting under a yellow shroud was a sight to behold. Post a couple of pictures, it was time to go. But before that, a marvellous sample of engineering during that time left an everlasting impression on my mind and with every step, I wanted to stop and suffice the sutterbug in me.
Back on the roads, I was greeted by Bihar with open arms. A bad stretch of the road continued for about a couple of kilometers and it was open highway again. The mercury was rising, the stomach was grumbling and my throat was screaming for some water. It was around 12ish that I stopped by a small road side dhaba and satiated my thirst and hunger. Never wanted to move on, the rickety furniture and almost dead fan was such a respite. But the show must go on!
Rest was just another highway ride till Araria before the machine showed low fuel. Inquired about the way to Siliguri from this place while tanking up and was routed to a single lane highway, which was best avoided considering the approaching dusk and less time. Although this route would take fewer hours as per google maps, the other route was a well built 4 lane highway.
Was somehow routed to the "faster" single lane route and immediately regretted it looking at the potholes, animals and humans mushrooming from everywhere alike! Taking a U turn was one of the best decisions of this ride and by the time the four lane highway took me to Bagdogra, it was dark already. The last 22 odd kilometers from Bagdogra to Siliguri was real pain with no sign of street light and crater deep potholes! Finally called it a day at Hotel Diamond, Hill Cart Road, Siliguri. Just a few hours sleep and I head to Bhutan tomorrow! It was simply a great feeling.
Some pics for the day:
Vlog for the day:
Day 3 | 23.06.2017 | Siliguri - Phuentsholing | 170+ km
Every second holds a different experience for you once you're traveling. Far away from home, I was in the North-East! I knew it would be daylight once I wake up right last night and was excited to see the same. The day broke in very early. I just had a short nap of about 4-5 hours as few hours last night was spent talking to a complete stranger who gave me some tips about the the ride today.
I peeped out of the door and boom it was dawn already...right at 5 in the morning. But it was drizzling and made me worried a bit as I was unsure of the road conditions. Thought it to be a hilly ride that would take time to cover 170 odd kilometers today. The luggage was left mounted on the bike last night, so it saved me about 20 minutes and I was on the road in no time. It was like riding in another world all together. Back home, one would still be in darkness and I was all enlightenment for me (pun intended).
Being previously advised about taking the "coronation bridge" route via Sevok, I had no choice to make and headed straight to "another country". A place where I would meet friends after long, a place where people are happy, a place never seen. But not to forget, there was a timeline that I had to follow and missing the deadline would mean 2 days right at the border with little to do than loitering around, getting drunk and sleeping. Friends would be there to receive me at Phuentsholing, riding all the way from Thimphu, a 6 hours ride. What beautiful people, equally excited to see me as I am to see them.
Few images to share before I describe the aura at the border:
Post crossing the Jaldapara National Park, the senses were soon blown away with narrow streets, chaos, maddening traffic and faint never-seen-before architecture tucked away in the mountains, still distant. "That definitely has to be Bhutan"...I said to myself, thanks to the "knowledge and advice potion" that I was made to swallow by friends from Bhutan before the ride commenced. Snaking through the traffic, I glanced upon the clock, clearly running 30 minutes behind Bhutan standard Time (the time zone hence forward). Exactly 8.30 by my clock. This means I'm late already. The immigration office opens and closes by 9.00 am and 3.00 pm BST respectively.
I was almost there, and without even asking for directions, I could make out where to go. After all, hours and days were spent looking at the images, videos and google satellite view. Just when I turned right from the junction, I spotted the gate. THIS WAS IT!
I was finally at the entrance! This trip was planned, maybe, in 2010...even before I met my friends from Bhutan. Look where the world has brought me, right here, this was the time, this was a dream come true. Parked the bike, recorded a short info video for the channel and was immediately shouted upon by the Bhutanese police official, a shrewd affair that would continue, for atleast, some days.
What follows now is an event-by-event description of how Bhutan Treated me on our very first date.
So I was waiting at the petrol pump for one of my friends who was to come and assist me with the permit process, what a kind gesture. Get used to such kindness and this would continue all the way till the exit. Being stuck with something professionally important, two of his associates were sent for the rescue. Filling up forms was easy, yet confusing. I had to rush to places to get the photocopies done and get my passport size photographs clicked. It was sweltering hot. Meanwhile Shova and Sangam, the associates obliged to take care of the belongings. And to my horror, I was just not able to find my Voter's ID! And I was not carrying any other ID. Called up the hotel and confirmed that I have left it there. While I was looking for a photocopy of the same, just in case, I luckily found my passport and was not good to go.
Finally the form was filled, photocopies attached and the endless wait began. Meanwhile there were two more bikers on an All India ride and wanted to hit Bhutan too. One of them got his permit rejected! The reason? "As per the new rule, we don't allow bikers anymore". Isn't that lame? I too was wearing my Youtube t-shirt, quickly changed it whatever I caught hold off from the saddle bags that were still tied with bungee chords.
It finally was my turn, the first question, why are you traveling alone? Answered. "Show me your hotel booking". I did not have one. Called up one of my friends from Thimphu from a borrowed phone. Mine had no network service. I was told I, along with three other friends were booked in Hotel Druk, sharing the boundary with immigration office. My friend from Phuentsholing, Dechen, sent me an email confirmation. "This won't work", said the immigration official. "We need proper booking with you name, hotel stamp and sign" he added. Called up Dechen again and I headed towards Hotel Druk. The VP signed one for me, I thanked him from the bottom of my heart. Another kind gesture going extra mile just to ensure I don't face any trouble.
The immigration official was shocked to see the document which mentioned my stay in Phuenntsholing and Thimphu. But I felt they were determined to reject my permit. Now I was asked to give my itinerary in written. Isn't that stupid? Their country, their laws, I respected and jotted down my itinerary. Was told to wait again. The time was running out and it was already 12ish. Mind you, I need to get my bike permit done as well, from the RSTA office, a 5 minutes ride from this place.
While I waited, another friend from Thimphu joined me and it was such a relief to see him. Then I was asked to "appear" in front of a senior official and the entire experience was more than humiliating! I really wanted to leave and get back to India patiently, a right there and then. It was like being probed and interrogated like a criminal. "What is your profession?", "you will go and sell your products?", "why do you want to visit Bhutan?", "Who all are there in your family?" and what not. Though I answered all of them very patiently, I was fuming inside.
Anyhow, I was granted a permit and was now supposed to get the fingerprint scanned at the immigration counter. checking the clock almost held me by surprise, it was 1.00pm already and its their lunch hour. They open back at 2.00. A polite request to one of the girls at the counter for issuing me a permit came back with a befitting reply "whatsoever, sir, it's out lunch hour, I'm sorry". "I need to get the permit for the bike too at the RSTA", I added...no luck, same cold shoulder.
So I had an hour to kill, fingers crossed...I did not want to spend two days at the border as they only open on Monday, today being a Friday. My friends and I went to a nearby restaurant for lunch as I was hungry and did not have anything since morning. Got comfortable as it would take some time for the food to be served, that's how things work here. Be patient, life is more laidback here. By the time the food was served and we started munching, it was 2:00 pm already. I simply ruched to the immigration office and got my permit exactly at 2:30 pm.
All this while, my friends from Thimphu were an hour away from Phuentsholing. My friend and I rushed to the immigration office after bidding adieu to Sangam. Halfway through, I realized I don't have my wallet with me! I must have left it at the immigration office. And we could not just turn around, it being a one way. Finally I found the wallet at the immigration counter. 2:45 by the clock, and photocopies were still pending.
The RSTA building is 5 mins drive from the immigration office. Once there, we had to climb up and down to find the "Room No. 9" and the accounts. Paid INR 700 for 7 days permit and was finally given a go ahead at exactly 2.59 pm. I was the last one that day!
Post the permit, there was nothing much to do. Just checked into the hotel, and waited for friends. Post that it was just eat, drink and be merry.
Vlog of the day:
<span data-blogger-escaped-style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">
Comment