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The Austrian Alps and Beyond

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  • [Photo Feature]: The Austrian Alps and Beyond





    But first a brief introduction....

    Chapter 1: Background

    I am someone who has riding two-wheels since I was in class 11th around village roads and trails. When someone told me you need to have a Learner License (at least) at the age of 16 for two wheelers- gearless, I jumped at it and got one for myself without thinking twice. This LL gave me the opportunity to ride my dad’s Kinetic Honda to college & tuitions (it was the first moto-scooter IMHO, still a fan). But this license also gave me little more confident riding the scooter in the city and also join my brother, uncles on rides on their Motorcycles and thus it all started.

    Why am I saying all this?

    Because this is what led to me hopping onto a motorcycle and start daydreaming about riding far one day.



    Back in 2004, I got my hands on my brother’s TVS Victor (first gen) shown above. Learnt the art of “motorcycle touring” on it doing day trips from Hunsur to Mysore (100 km per day) 2-up riding for 2 months- every single day. This route on repeat mode for nearly 60 days made me get the basics right and the confidence to ride on my own. Soon what followed was me getting myself a proper license to ride - MCG from MCWG (Confusing right ? Hence the need to get oneself an IDP while riding aboard even if one has a DL smart card).

    Anyhow this license thing was monumental, like for every boy growing up as this meant eventually at some point, one will get his own first motorcycle. That dream came true nearly 1.5 years later, when dad got me a Bajaj Pulsar DTSi 150cc in black, with alloys, electric starter, fully loaded with features by end of 2005).




    Why am I saying all this?

    Because it is around the same time, I found friends who shared a similar passion in Mysore and the partner in the above crime. I found a friend who was more dependable with planning and execution of rides and remained naturally so for years/decades to come.

    It is this attitude that made “more possible with ease” even years later. He is mostly known by userID hifi_sharu or the guy in Bangalore who owned a Street Triple before moving abroad. Above is the picture from our then THE RIDE all the way to Nandi Hills from Mysore (bunking the class on Monday) .



    We go back nearly 14 years of moto-touring all over India. But all this of riding in India was about to change come 30th April 2018 - A new continent & in few countries at a shot !

    So, back to Bajaj Pulsar 150 DTSi (mag-wheel edition).

    This motorcycle led to SO MANY weekend rides in all directions with Mysore as the base, it was almost a bi-monthly affair.

    In those early days of motorcycle touring in and around Mysore, there were no assistance from the google map’s-aunt/ uncle, online forums, vlogs to get inspired or informed. There were no travelogues, no Instagrams to expect - what to expect en-route. People were the only sources (period)

    Knowing places to visit with good set of roads were the only two criterias. Everything else was left to “surprises on- during- at the end of a ride”.



    Why am I saying all this?

    Because in the Austrian Alps ride, nearly 14 years later in a completely different continent & for the first time, we nearly dropped those two criteria. A lot of this was due to two reasons. One was the unpredictability with weather as we were riding early in the Spring around Alps (End of April - First week of May 2018) and the second reason was the third rider (wait ! second reason was the third rider...that is correct). He is a German, who we got introduced through a common friend, over a ride we all did back in 2016 around Gujarat - Rann of Kutch. He threw light on some of the the don’ts when riding in Europe during transition seasons when the weather is unpredictable. We basically did not do any reservations for the night stay for the entire trip. We were at ease the whole trip and all the credits go to tech-platforms like Booking.com | AirBnb etc.




    So back to the Great Rann of Kutch Ride- That is when the seed that was sown of riding in Europe got some serious fertilizer and that thought grew into reality in less than 1.5 years.

    Chapter 2: Where it all got a bit serious

    Following the Kutch ride, I started seriously putting time and effort into getting the financials into place as by then I had a fair bit of understanding of the ground reality of living in Europe(during my Masters study programme) and through discussion with fellow Xbhpians -ID Adarsk_BK & Mr.NiranjanScoda. Both by then had done serious miles in Europe under their riding shoes and Adarsh in-particular had flown from here and accomplished his “Mission Alps” (link shared below).

    http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/32345-mission-alps-accomplished.html

    So, with reality check done at various levels (basically rental possibilities + riding legalities) and what it is gonna cost, things got serious by end of 2017. I started putting together all the needful for this dream ride to happen- people, papers, pre-work and packing.

    Chapter 3: People (and their rides)

    Created a Whatsapp group with the same 3 people (the same group which rode to Kutch) and put the thought out there. Started discussing holidays possible for everyone involved and narrowed in on the week. Me, hifi_sharu & one other german friend were the final list of riders for the trip. The German had a BMW K800GT where as me and hifi_sharu started looking at best rental option to go with.



    We all were aligned right from the word go that, we will avoid unrestricted Autobahn as much as possible and stick to interior roads for that is where one finds most fun and amazing scenery.So , having ridden Ninja 300 extensively here in India alongside Striple, the sub 45bhp/45Nm figures seemed sufficient for what we were planning.



    I personally also wanted to be least bothered about managing the motorcycle. The intent was to reduce surprises as much as possible and take things in my control which I have control on. I wanted to concentrate my efforts on adhering to the rules in Europe and more importantly enjoying the ride than to “drop a gear and go brappppp”.

    All these made us look at options which were in the vicinity of Ninja 300 in-terms of a package and performance - sub 45bhp & 45Nm. We knew even with a Hayabusa on unrestricted Autobahn, you are better off on the slower lanes for there is something always faster coming towards you in the rear-view mirror... OMFG some cars are ballistic . On the plus side of sub 45bhp-45Nm was that we could save nearly hundred euros on rental costs. Felt logical- again take control of things you had control on while planning.

    Hifi_sharu started visiting few rental agencies near his place (https://www.limbaecher.de/vermietung.html ) to discuss if they would rent motorcycles to an Indian on IDP while I parallely wrote to the agency Xbhpian Adarsh_Bk rented from in Frankfurt (http://www.motorradvermietung.de/en/price-list/) to reconfirm once again.

    But considering, for the later, we had to go all the way to Munich and start our trip from there (plus it had a cap on the range for 5 days), we chose to stick to the option closer to where Hifi_sharu stayed and hence went with Limbacher.



    Something to note here is, while it is cheaper to rent from Monday to Friday but the catch is - the rental is from Day 1- 11 AM to Day 5- 11AM. It is aspects like these that made us opt for Limbacher and they offered unlimited mileage and was closer to where we were staying. Having that unlimited factor always meant, we could go always a bit further, faster and cover more if needed.

    So, Hifi_sharu went ahead and booked himself a 2017 Kawasaki Z650 while I settled for the Honda CB500X cousin - 2017 Honda CB500F. I would have loved to have had the CB500X but did not have that as an option. Via Online-booking, rental agencies confirmed our booking and insisted I have IDP with me at all times for any scenario that might ask me to present one. Hifi_sharu had gotten himself a proper Motorcycle license in Europe hence, no issues there.



    Note: Prices do not fluctuate with motorcycle rentals - they are fixed. However, you might not find the desired option as you go closer to the date of riding. Book at the earliest if you are picky on the kind of motorcycle you want to ride.

    Chapter 4 : Papers

    Motorcycle rental was one of the easiest as one pre-requisite from my end to be met was the IDP and a credit card for them to block 1000 Euros (security deposit). But to get IDP, there is a lot to be done before hand and all of that starts with flight booking. The order of things to be done in-terms of paperwork is as follows;

    Flight tickets (Instantaneous) > Travel Insurance (From Inquiry to issuance 2-3 days) > 6+ months Passport validity (5 working days for re-issue of passport post submission) > Schengen Visa @ VFS (5 working days post submission) > IDP (Depends on the system - took me 5 days)

    The most challenging of all the documents that were to be put in-order was the IDP (Not the new passport, not the visa or the travel health insurance or the rental booking). RTO is quite something and everytime is throws up new challenges.

    Note: If one wants to eliminate the slightest thought of VISA being declined, it is recommended to get a letter of invitation from a local Indian in Europe or a European citizen. Processing of the VISA becomes hassle free. However, do factor in 30 days for the letter to reach you once the letter is ready with the concerned in Europe. It is an activity that has a lead time of 1 month overall. Again - Letter of invitation is not mandatory to get oneself a tourist visa m just having sufficient funds in your account for the last three months should suffice.

    Chapter 5: Ride Preparation

    Documentation and rental aside, it was the time to get acclimatized with riding in Europe. As they say devil is in the details, riding in a new continent definitely needs one to start observing the details. So, as per recommendation from hifi_sharu I downloaded this application into my mobile which is used by Germans to take mock-tests on do’s and don’t in Europe. Below is the link to this app. I used this sparingly before the ride 30-45 min at times over weeks but ended up using it extensively during my flight. It somewhere gave me the confidence that my rationale were valid in most cases and got informed about the little nuances in others.

    https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.drivingingermany

    One more site I found most informative was “ Brian’ s guide to getting around Germany - “The doctrine of confidence” article specifically. This doctrine is something I recommend every Indian to also read as it still holds true for every motorist - no matter which country he or or she is in or visiting.

    http://www.gettingaroundgermany.info/regeln.shtml

    Lastly, while one can be a sponge and absorb as much info as he/she can, nothing can prevent one from getting lost in the roundabouts in Europe or taking the right exit on the Autobahn. We did not get ourselves GPS and each mistake would mean a delay ranging between 30-60 mins with increased stress levels to wait for others to join/find each other.

    So, very well in advance, we both got ourselves one of the Freedcom Intercoms (sub-INR 5k)from Gearbest and set-it up on our helmets. This gadget turned out to be a true rockstar as it made the whole journey a breeze.

    https://www.gearbest.com/motorcycle-intercoms/pp_614179.html?wid=1433363
    https://www.gearbest.com/other-motorcycle-accessories/pp_009429959663.html?wid=1433363

    Chapter 6: Packing

    Now with Oman air, one gets 30kgs/2pcs of luggage. So, hence, in one of the suitcases I filled all the motorcycle trip luggage. The list is as mentioned below;

    • Rev-it leather Jacket (textile jacket was left behind for it would not be suitable for the weather we were up-against in the Alps)
    • JoeRocket full gauntlet racing gloves (again to keep myself warm)
    • Triumph Motorcycle Apparel - Riding Jeans
    • Dainese Motorshoe D-WP riding shoes (if it rains)
    • Craft warm-weather base layers
    • Rain jacket & pants (Decathlon)
    • MT helmet T-Rex
    • Freedconn Intercom
    • Mijia 4K action camera
    • Olympus EPL2 with 9mm Fish-eyed lens
    • 10000maH battery bank
    • Dirtsack magnetic tank bag
    • SW-Motech drybag 250
    • 3-4 t-shirts
    • 2 pullovers (layers)
    • 2 jeans
    • 5 pairs of inner-wear
    • 3 pairs of socks
    • 1 charger for phone
    • 1 EU charging adapter
    • 2 USB cables
    • Camera charging adapter
    • Documents (a copy)


    Anyone who is reading this and has done extensive travelling would realise (we did realise much later) that with increasing USB-charging based gadgets, we were under-prepared to charge our devices at the end of each day. Every evening ,we would end up having all devices (2x Smartphone, 2x Intercom, 2x Action Camera, 2x battery banks etc) up for simultaneously charging. Lesson learnt the hard way. Here I highly recommend someone to get one of those multiple USB charging dock as that way as mentioned below. I would next time for sure.

    https://www.amazon.in/Portronics-343-Charger-Charging-Station/dp/B00TGUX8T0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1532453148&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+charging+station

    So now that we are prepared with all the necessary information, let us start the ride.

    If I have missed some aspects, do ask and would do my best to provide necessary information.


    The Ride (I am the one the right )



    To be continued...

    Last edited by roshan3440; 07-27-2018, 06:10 PM.
    tour-master on exile

  • #2
    Re: The Austrian Alps and Beyond

    Thread approved.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: The Austrian Alps and Beyond

      One of the most beautiful places for roadtip
      Austria-Germany-Swiss <3 <3

      I did in 2016 in Germany (on 4 wheeler though), those Autobahns and country side roads made me fall in Love

      Benelli 302 Owner Experience
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      • #4
        Re: The Austrian Alps and Beyond

        Great starter!
        Bring on the main course!
        A bike on the road is worth two in the shed.

        Weekend Rides Around Kolkata
        My Ride To Sunderbans -
        Hemnagar & Samsernagar
        Saagar Kinare - Bakkhali Calling

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        • #5
          Re: The Austrian Alps and Beyond

          Great starter... Hooked on to this thread.

          As a child, I read a book "Heidi" which was written almost a century ago now, and it was about Alps, and a little orphaned girl who befriended a handicapped girl, and helped her recover from her prolonged illness, by exposure to the clean weather around Alps...
          The Alps and the people who lived there, on barter system, no technology, no currency, no wealth, just pure "Let's live today right now" kind of philosophy...

          Then, it was brought to us in an animated form too in 52 episodes.


          So, whenever someone mentiones Alps, "Heidi" comes to my mind. <3 Does anyone have a memory of it?
          ---
          Brotherhood, Rules, Freedom. Xbhp.
          Indian riding = Alertness, Anticipation and Adjustment.

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          • #6
            Re: The Austrian Alps and Beyond

            Originally posted by krishna77 View Post
            Great starter!
            Bring on the main course!
            It shall be served soon.

            Originally posted by Samarth 619 View Post
            Great starter... Hooked on to this thread.

            As a child, I read a book "Heidi" which was written almost a century ago now, and it was about Alps, and a little orphaned girl who befriended a handicapped girl, and helped her recover from her prolonged illness, by exposure to the clean weather around Alps...
            The Alps and the people who lived there, on barter system, no technology, no currency, no wealth, just pure "Let's live today right now" kind of philosophy...

            Then, it was brought to us in an animated form too in 52 episodes.


            So, whenever someone mentiones Alps, "Heidi" comes to my mind. <3 Does anyone have a memory of it?
            Though I do not have a memory of Heidi, the thought of "Let's live today right now" was one of thoughts that led me take the plunge into making this ride happen.
            tour-master on exile

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            • #7
              Re: The Austrian Alps and Beyond

              Chapter 7: The Ride
              (Credits: All images shown here from the ride were all clicked either on Nexus 5x & Mijia 4K action camera)
              April 29 2018


              The excitement all started the night before on 29 April 2018. It was agreed that the German friend, who resides in Berlin would ride down to Stuttgart and we would regroup for the evening dinner to quickly charting out the plan - route and destinations. Prior to this meet, the agreed route was to do the following-

              Stuttgart > Dolomites (halt) > Lake Garda (halt) > Lake Como (halt) Swiss Pass (whichever is open) (Halt) > Stuttgart

              But weather had other plans and it forecasted nearly all-rain for the entire week and sub 3-8C temperature. We owe it up to the accuracy of this app- VENTUSKY over Accuweather or any other app we came across and it was pretty accurate once the ride started.
              (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=cz.ackee.ventusky&hl=en_IN).

              So, based on the understanding of the weather we decided to completely change the direction. Instead of exploring the Italian and Swiss side of the alps, we decided to head east where weather was mostly pleasant. Out goes the Dolomites, in-comes the Austrian Alps.

              Got everything packed, charged, cleaned and arranged and went to bed.

              Day 1

              Gartringen > Filderstadt > Blauhtof (Lunch) > Neuschwanstein Castle > Haiming (Halt) (distance: 316 kms)

              Got-up and started our journey towards motorcycle rental place in Stuttgart. Two guys all suited up - ATGATT with luggage taking the train to Limbacher.

              We reached there around 1030, we showed our DLs and the letter showcasing online booking made. Following which, the rental process was very similar to what we go through here in India. Both of us were directed to the motorcycles and a quick check-on scratches/damages if any were audited No hick-ups there.

              Only difference from my rental experiences in the past here in India to that in Limbacher was that, we were lucky to find two motorcycles that had less than 2000km on the odo.



              Following the “All is ok check ”. Came back to our motorcycles and then started the task of loading luggage on the bikes. New bikes, new mounting points, setting up action cameras, Intercom and it before we knew it was almost noon.



              We contacted the third-rider who had just left from Stuttgart, agreed to meet somewhere on the highway (moving towards Ulm) as waiting at the rental place meant we would lose more time. Thus the ride started.







              Once we all regrouped, we decided to make Blauhtof our next stop for lunch (It literally translate to Blue-pot and you will see why in the pictures).









              Over the lunch, we decided to get as close as possible to the Austrian Border before taking the next stop. It was nearly 3PM by the time we figured out where to go. The next stop for the day was agreed to be Neuschwanstein Castle.



              But by the time we got there it was nearly 6PM and the caste was shut. So we saw the caste from quite a distance and got ourselves busy hunting for an accomodation for the night stay.





              Next stop was a small village on the Austrian side- Haiming.



              End of the day with few beers and some nice local German food on the menu.


              ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

              Day 2
              Haiming > Großglocknerstraße > Liesing (distance: 336 kms)









              Over breakfast, looking at Ventusky we all agreed Grosslockner Pass (Großglocknerstraße) as the highlight of the day. This was the only item on my check-list in this trip , to do at-least a pass and wow were we in for a treat. The pass had opened 3 days ago and hence, we were going towards something which usual non-european travellers might have not come across as it is mostly green by the end of spring/summer (tourist season).




























              From Grosslockner, we headed towards Liesing, another village town on the Austrian-Italian border. On our way, we stopped at the iconic cafe en-route.








              That was the end of Day 2. To be continued
              Last edited by roshan3440; 08-07-2018, 11:00 AM.
              tour-master on exile

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              • #8
                Re: The Austrian Alps and Beyond

                Day 3

                Liesing > Wiessensee > Eben > Aich > Hallstatt > Filzmoos (distance: 344 kms)



                Got up next morning to be greeted by rain. Damn ! and the weather was nearly 7 C.

                This was also the day when the group got split into two.The friend & his girl-friend (Yes, there was a pillion on that BMW - tells something about pillion comfort on these Sport-tourers) continued towards Croatia while me and my friend decided to check out a nearby lake - Weissensee.

                Following an hour of riding in rain and 7 C temperature in the hills, decided to stop at the next town for Brunch as rain had to stop. It was becoming very annoying to ride with freezing palms.

                So, we stopped at Kotschach Mauthen as we arrived into the plains.
                This was the treat - a nice half Italian pizza from a cafe on the Austrian-Italian border with a nice hot coffee.











                Following this, our next job was to book something closer to Salzburg for our night stay. We had almost spent more than 50% time of the trip and we wanted to return back to Stuttgart by end of day 4. As you can see, one criteria for all of the trip was to never stay in the cities - NEVER. So, next stop for the night Filzmoss.

                On our way, we decided to take a detour and hit Hallstatt. Another famous lake in Austria.



                Sadly,as we got lost, and spent quite some time getting there only to welcomed by rain again. We quickly glimpsed the lake and started making our way back to our stay for the night nearly 2 hours away

                ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

                Day 4

                Filzmoos > Munich > Friedrichshafen > Gärtringen (distance: 580 kms)

                This morning had only one agenda - get home asap , as we wanted to check-out the famous B500 roads on the last day. So, got up and left at 9 from Filzmoos and started moving towards Gärtringen where my friend stays.



                Barring the initial bit (picture above), this run was mostly on the 4 laned highways - unrestricted most of it and one rule when on such Autobahns is: Keep one eye on the road ahead and the other- on the road behind .

                On the way, we decided to check out another lake - Friedrichshafen. One of the biggest lakes in Europe which shares its borders with Germany, Switzerland and Austria. It is also the birthplace of the famous Zeppelins. Astonishingly no pictures taken there.




                That night was some home food, and discussing what to do ? where else can we go before returning the bikes ?...


                ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

                Day 5

                Gartringen > Mummelsee > Baden Baden > Filderstadt (distance : 234 km)

                So last day the plan was made - first a lake and then the famous B500.

                We left home around 7:30 and went directly to Mummelsee and had breakfast.











                Riding through the famous B500 was short as we only covered a small stretch till Baden-baden (i think) before heading towards Filderstadt and returning the bikes to Limbacher.



                So, there it hit us both that a ride that was so many years in the making, planning was over just like that over 5 days and 1800+ kms . It went by so fast, so fast ... wow !!!

                It was over and we were heading back home the way we started the trip just 5 days back with a smile.

                A smile worth the time, effort and money… and lets not forget memories.


                Last edited by roshan3440; 08-07-2018, 04:59 PM.
                tour-master on exile

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                • #9
                  Re: The Austrian Alps and Beyond

                  You lucky dawgs [emoji3] This is picture card perfect stuff. What beautiful roads, cleanliness and everything looks so organised. Must have been an epic ride. Well done.
                  Ride To Live

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                  • #10
                    Re: The Austrian Alps and Beyond

                    Originally posted by akshay View Post
                    You lucky dawgs [emoji3] This is picture card perfect stuff. What beautiful roads, cleanliness and everything looks so organised. Must have been an epic ride. Well done.
                    Lucky dawgs ke baare mein I reserve my comments but it was indeed picture card perfect - Especially the country side around the Austrian Alps.

                    Some of those vistas were not captured as either the action camera battery was low or we did not stop for other reasons. Some lessons learnt the hard-way go a long away when it comes to planning future rides.
                    Last edited by roshan3440; 08-08-2018, 06:44 PM.
                    tour-master on exile

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                    • #11
                      Re: The Austrian Alps and Beyond

                      NICE Ride log, really envy the picture card perfect roads and the weather you had for your ride specially since it has been raining for the last 2 months here and the less said about the condition of our monsoon ravaged roads the better .
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                      • #12
                        Re: The Austrian Alps and Beyond

                        Originally posted by bharatheshk View Post
                        NICE Ride log, really envy the picture card perfect roads and the weather you had for your ride specially since it has been raining for the last 2 months here and the less said about the condition of our monsoon ravaged roads the better .
                        The weather was quite favorable for most of the trip.

                        But we realized that early spring, even few layers of clothing plus Leather jacket, sometimes does not suffice especially in the later parts of the evening as sun starts to go low in the Alps.
                        tour-master on exile

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                        • #13
                          Re: The Austrian Alps and Beyond

                          Brilliantly put!
                          The pictures say a lot!
                          A bike on the road is worth two in the shed.

                          Weekend Rides Around Kolkata
                          My Ride To Sunderbans -
                          Hemnagar & Samsernagar
                          Saagar Kinare - Bakkhali Calling

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