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“Comfort. Hah, what Bullsh!t.” – Literally every serious tourer.
No one likes heat and sweat. I absolutely detest the touch of hot air on my skin and the distasteful memories it brings back from my days at Mumbai. Living in Mumbai was like trying to fight a slimy monster everyday and I am so glad to have taken refuge to the northern part of this country.
Until March passed halfway through and the unfortunate Delhi heat was on. All my dreams of happy blushy winters were shattered.
Just shy of two months back, I had been to Manali and surroundings. It was during the bones-freezing winter. I tried to soothe my mind with the thoughts of the colder times of the past. It then dawned upon me.
Maybe I ought not to hate this heat. I did not hate on the harsh winters of December. I rather went ahead and put my feet in the snow. Maybe this is the way to do it. Maybe you can really FEEL the elements out there in their extremes.
And what is a better place to enjoy heat than a full blown Thar Desert? Better go to a specialist, yeah?
March end was a four day streak of government holidays. Easy. I zeroed in on Jaisalmer.
Then I went ahead and bought the HJC CL-17 Void helmet. An upgrade was long due, anyway. Such fun
Day 1 : Delhi to Jaisalmer (845km)
I got up late, because the alarms went all silent on me. It was already 7:30pm by the time I started. I had already bled the brakes the day before and prepped the chain. Had packed the bags in advance. I took almost negligible luggage, because who needs an awful lot of clothes in a desert?On moving out, I realized I had made a big mistake by starting late. Enjoying heat and all sure sounds romantic, sure. But the rate with which I was losing water from the body was exponentially higher than my expectations. The new helmet gave me a pressure point on the right temple which was a third degree pain for first few hours. I had lost the leverage over the heat. Now the whole day of hot riding was ahead.
“Quit whining, you moron!” A voice emerged from deep within. I had covered about 200km by then. “Quit your *****ing about the heat and the dust and the pain, fool!” I looked around. I saw people, two kinds of them. Bicycling to work and walking around in the heat. Breathing the dust in. Wiping away their sweat.
I was fully covered from head to toe, with specially designed clothes to maximize ventilation. ON a liquid cooled motorcycle moving ahead with speeds exceeding 100kmph. I have no right to ***** about the heat and the pain.
A profound realization hit me then and there. Change of frame of reference, is what you call it. Now suddenly I started feeling coming out of myself. The dusty road, the fumes from trucks, the bustling energy from the people around me, the tarmac, the sunlight. They all formed a symbiosis of sort in their own ecosystem. They let me be a part of it, or rather I walked in to be one with them.
It is a very undescribable feeling, when you feel like you truly belong somewhere. I stopped. Took a deep breath, imbibing all the beautiful chaos surrounding me. Drank about a litre of water. Then mounted up, saw a very straight road ahead of me, and started moving ahead. In unison with all the elements.
The road led me to much interior areas of rural Rajasthan and the seemingly open road abruptly became a narrow lane through a Dhani. It was so much fun! I was using the google maps’ motorcycle version, and the little bastard was trying to take me through the most crooked roads away from the highways. HAHAHA, it was so much fun!
At one point, I took the road Google told me and it went literally through a residential colony. It was a dead end ahead, only a barren land with cows I could see. I ran in circles around but it always led me to that dead end. After wasting half an hour running around, I knocked on a door. It was about 12:30PM.
A sedate old man came out, and I asked for directions towards Jaisalmer. He was so surprised, he just pointed to the dead end. He was like, go a little ahead and you will find a goat trail which will take you to the main road.
I obeyed, and entered. Before it could hit me, I entered a huge heap of sand which had no way of ending soon. The rear sank in and I was huffing and puffing to get the bike out. All maneuvers failed. The rear tyre had sunk in so deep, I just walked away from the saddle and saw the bike stand in the sand without the side stand out.
I was anxious, sweaty and dehydrated from all the efforts. I saw a masjid nearby. Before I could reach for help, I saw some guy approaching. He must have heard the grunt of the poor bike. He came over. I am glad now he could not see the grief on my face through the helmet and the glares.
He helped me push through the sunken wheels and I gave out a sigh of relief. Thanked this good Samaritan and I again started the navigation. At this point I let go of google and traced my way back from the village to the main highway. I went wherever the road led me and let google reroute multiple times. At one point this random maze pattern worked and I found some way, eventually.
Endless straights, lined by desert shrubs on both the sides. Such a beautiful picture to witness. It was high noon and the Sun was sending all the fireworks upon the land. With great admiration, I throttled my way ahead towards Naggour.
Naggour arrived, but I did not feel like taking a stop. I planned on hitting Jaisalmer by the night. I stopped at a Dhaba to wash my face and have multiple cups of tea and snacks.
I stopped at the Dhaba for about an hour, chitchatting with the owner and the locals. Sunset soon followed and the dusk started to even beautify the soothing sand and shrubs. Rajasthan skies are like a color palette. I saw the clearest blues in the day and the most stunning shades of red in the evening.
Wind is no problem in these parts, so moving is more comfortable than staying at one place. The wind is strong and it keeps you in equilibrium temperatures while on the move.
I don’t remember how much, but I rode more or less nonstop from Naggour to Jaisalmer. I did cautious 100-110s all the way because traffic was rare and the road was mad straight. I was swirling each 50km a bit to avoid the wearing out of the central trade of my tires. :P It was scary straight for the tires.
At about 11pm, I saw the Jaisalmer city entrance. Then I started my search for the stay. I was in touch with a guy from Couchsurfing, but it was too late to contact him yet. I was approached by agents offering me hotels and safari etc. I was like please, bro. Leave me alone. After 840+ kilometers, my shoulders were sore a bit. I had not stopped for some 300km, big mistake. I saw some hotel on the main road, and saw ample parking space. Secure parking is important. I went in, paid about 1500rs for the night and was escorted in the room. I took a hot shower, washing away all the highway muck and grime. I was so happy, to finally have arrived somewhere I wanted to be. I skipped dinner and slept on the cozy double bed for a lazy tomorrow.
Day 2 : Jaisalmer city and Chhatrail.
I got up late, at around 9am and I was fine contrary to what I had thought. The 302R is ridiculously comfortable at its stock configuration. I have zero aftermarket comfort mods, and I could do 840+km in 15 hours without slightest physical suffering. Rest of the credit goes in part to the amazing roads and in part to me hitting the gym daily. :PI changed into casuals, and headed for the Jaisalmer fort. I parked inside the fort, and wandered around. I am not interested in the relics of the history, but the overall vibe is beautiful to absorb. The hustle bustle of the locals, the hurried mannerisms of the tourists and the slow pace of the elderly.
I saw almost all the free areas of the fort myself, eventually sneaking into guided tours and detaching away from them like a multiplying amoeba.
Then I stopped at a restaurant called Little Tibet Restaurant. I liked the vibe of the place. I had some museli with milk and a sandwich. Great stuff and humble service. With a smile on my face, I stepped out. Now I wanted to go someplace away from the crowd. I asked a guy about some place away, and he told me to go visit the war museum.
It was about 12km from the fort. I said great. I rode there, a huge place. I got a tourist tour with a guide and all. On my way out, I interacted with a few foot soldiers. They were strict about not letting me take photographs with them, but we talked a lot. Then a group of them and I who were off duty did some amazing fun stuff which I am not at liberty to disclose. At this point, I too got a jarhead crew cut like them all, courtesy my new acquaintances, kickass ones
You just can’t be with the soldiers for long time, because they are bound by strict duties. I bid them farewell and now came out of the den. I was in touch with my man Sadhu, whom I’d found on Couchsurfing. I asked him to come meet me in the city while I pass time till he comes.
I chose a roadside tea stall on the main road to pass time. I hate cushy fake pretentious hotels and restos where the only interaction happens is between you and the waiter. The tea stall was a mess, it was literally an extension of the pavement to be honest. I parked my bike at a distance because otherwise the interview would be started a bit too early. I was keeping my saddlebag and the riding gears in the hotel I had stayed at. I had only the helmet and gloves on.
The tea stall people slowly caught up to me, the conversation starter was a dholak player from some nearby village. We started talking about music and ragas. The others pitched in, and for the next 30 minutes I heard so many tales of the people of Rajasthan, their pride about the heritage and the travels of the people. Here, I asked them about the tips and tricks regarding how to get the best desert experience. The person in crisp whites quickly made some calls and arranged a stay for me at Khuri. He told his friend that I wanted not the typical tourist experience, but the real hard desert experience.
I took the number from my new friend who was basically an uncle like figure. I took a photo as memory. Sadhu had arrived. I said goodbye to the clan and joined Sadhu.
There are things to be written about this amazing young man. He came on a bike, and we rode on our bikes to his little village Chattrail about 20km from the city. Before leaving, I told him about my cravings for real rajasthani mutton. I was hoping he would point me towards a few good restaurants. He told me instead, “Let’s just buy mutton from the city, and we will cook it at my home.”
I was elated. So much hospitality! We went to a shop and bought succulent cuts of mutton enough for everyone in the family. Then we entered his village. He gave me a spot to park, and a folding cot to sit on. I talked with almost every member of the village and had a great time till 8pm. Talking and talking! I shared my tales of the travels, and they shared about their way of life in barren shrubs. The problem of osteo-dental fluorosis is a bad one in these areas due to highly salty water.
Mutton was ready. I devoured the meat with fresh rotis in the same plate with Sadhu. Sharing food with strangers who become family in minutes. All you need is an open heart.
After the plentiful dinner, Sadhu arranged a cot for me in the porch. A sound sleep under the stars. I slept like a baby. It was so cold in the night, I had to open my tailbag and get an extra shirt to wear. No mosquitoes, no fuss. Just me, the starry sky and the chill of the winds. The desert sings. All you have to do is listen.
Day 3 : Sand
I got up at a relaxed 7:30am, realizing I am the only one who is asleep for so long. Sadhu’s mother gave me those motherly, stern looks and like a rabbit in the crosshairs I jumped up. Folded the sheets like an obedient kid I always was, and looked at her in the most kiddish way. She laughed her heart out. This followed by tea. We all had tea together sitting on the porch, playing with the little puppies.
I said goodbye to the family with heavy heart. I wanted to stay more with these awesome peeps. We had some photos for memories.
I rode to Khuri, straight up. I saw deers on the way. Zero vehicles, few people. I was so much infatuated with this road, I didn’t want to let go. So I maintained a slow leisurely 40kmph in the 5th gear and started enjoying the view. Eventually I reached Khuri, and started looking for this gentleman I was referred to, Mr Hameer Singh. Apparently he was not there, but I spoke to him on phone, and he referred me to his assistant. I told him my needs to go in the heart of the desert, without any fuss and tourist shite.
He told me it is noon, so he told me to indulge in some cold beer. Since I don’t drink alcohol, I asked him to get me some coke instead. Apparently he only had beer in stock so he had to run afar to fetch it from some nearby shop. I entertained this opportunity to get the swingarm jack out. Time had come, to get the chain shiny and lubed.
I cleaned and lubed the chain under the shadow of a taller shrub, at about 1pm. It was so freaking hot, I did the job with the shirt taken off as a device to wipe sweat. So much fun getting my back burned in the heat, you could roast a few rotis on it. Now I was in the mood to enjoy some crisp desert wind.
Mr Ameer and Mr Bhuura took good care of me, they gave me a rocking chair to sit on. Once they learned I rode all the way from Delhi, they went ahead and got me lunch, coke and snacks.
He had called the camel man by 4pm. I rocked and rolled under the shadows like a boss, wearing shades. I changed into shorts, and got ready for the camel ride into the dunes. The camel man arrived. He packed blankets, utensils, milk and drinking water for our night in the desert.
I packed all my luggage neatly in the clawbag because I had no time to spend once I was back at Khuri from the dunes. I had to get scrambling at least by 7pm to cover about 940km to home according to Gmaps.
I mounted on the camel. I am not into all that rosy cheeked stuff of asking the camel’s name and all then calling him by it. Let him walk in peace, for chrissakes! We were alone, the rider was escorting the camel while walking ahead of me. We were going inside with a slow pace.
The dunes arrived, I was so fascinated by it. The rider told me, this is childerns’ stuff. Wait for the real deal. I was just observing and registering the vast ocean bed into my heart.
So much love for this arid environment. The dry lands. Home of astronomy. The home of ghazal. Heart wrenching ghazals were wrote in this state of mind. I could connect with the ancient tribesmen of the desert, emotional and fearless. We went deeper and deeper till the Sun was about to set. After about 2 hours of riding, my inner thighs were sore. I wished the camel also came with stomp grips. I drank water like a fish for the initial hour, but soon I realized it is in limited supplies so I started to ration it in sips.
Our destination came. Destination is a vague word, because all the horizon was engulfed by these tall, patterned dunes of sand. So huge, so thick. Such a sight to see. Magnanimous, and aloof. I was taken aback by the vastness of it. I started wandering around and my man stayed back, collecting firewood for dinner. I wandered like a little kid’s curiosity whose blindfold had just been removed after ages. I saw a deer in wild, metres away from me. I was able to take a short video of it before it escaped.
I did nothing much, really. I just walked over those huge dunes and tried to capture the sunset. Never before! Never before! I was yelling constantly at each sight. For a solo tourer, living in the middle of a desert is like a wet dream come true. Loaded with solitude and raw nature.
Amazing times later, I veered back into our little base camp. I helped a little with the shape of the rotis. Then we both sat and ate amazing food made right inside. I was smiling ear to ear the whole time. Basically it is dream come true. Living away from everywhere. Screw the world, the happiness lies right here.
After the dinner, we took the blankets from the camelback and laid them on a slope of a dune. I slept gazing at the stars.
Around midnight, I woke up with a sound. It was a strong gust of wind. The moonlight was so so strong, I could see even the beetle like insects crawling up my blanket. Come up, little bastards. Have fun ! I had opened my mind to all the elements around me. Nothing to bother, nothing to matter.
Day 4 : To hell with the plans.
I was gently awakened by my man. (He had instructions from me to leave as early as possible so that I could make it to Delhi at least by midnight. I had a heavy Monday OPD of around 120 patients post serial holidays. So at least four hours of sleep was essential.)
He had already made tea from the little milk tetra pack we had sneaked in. We drank tea welcoming the dawn and then quickly packed up the camel. This time, the rider saddled up too. He had the throttle control even while sitting pillion. He made the camel run with a doubled up speed and we covered the 2 hour walk distance in just 40 minutes. I saw the Sun rise by every inch and the changing shades of the clear blue sky with the moon still visible like a boss.
I reached at about 7am. Brother had kept his word true to the bone. I quickly became a fan of this man, Chelu Singh. I said goodbye to him and the gorgeous camel. Time to leave this strange, addictive land. Painful times. I wanted stay for like a week! I hit the starter at 7:45am after breakfast.
On my way back, I have nothing to add. I crouched up on the tank behind the windscreen, and rode straight for about 300km in sheer grief. I cursed everything, all the reasons which forced me to return to the concrete jungle.
When the going became too tough, I just chose to take a break. I slept in the roadside sand, and drank a whole bottle of mirinda. The world seemed to be a tolerable place after some hydration. Flashback to the memories, and I was happy again.
Via, Neem Ka Thana I made progress. Neem Ka Thana to KotPutali road was destroyed with truckers sending sand all over me. It was a hugely painful experience. I was constantly cursing and shouting and praying that this patch should get over soon. It haunted me for about 50km. By the time I reached the Jaipur-Delhi expressway, I was caked with dust and disappointment.
I stopped for dinner at the Lily restaurant. (secure parking once again, you see.) I ordered food, and then I literally took a bath in the restroom. I ate food in solace, listening to some songs, and connecting with the virtual fake world through my cell screen. I saw bikers posting giveaways on instagram if users tag them in 10 posts and I was nauseated again. So I wrapped up the dinner, and quickly made the last 200+ km. I reached at 11:30pm and I was glad to have made it back within sleepy time.
It was a strange, liberating experience. People, faces, mannerisms, ideologies, faiths, chaos and silence. I lived it all in these 96 hours. I had grown a penny wiser and two pennies kinder. Oh, for the love of motorcycling, take me back again!
great one..
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