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Amazingly magnificent & enchantingly awesome North East India - A 10,000 km Ride!

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  • Amazingly magnificent & enchantingly awesome North East India - A 10,000 km Ride!

    Prologue

    All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveler is unaware of and at the end of this journey all we gather are innumerable memories, experiences, happiness which we spin together into a story to relish for the rest of our lives. Though in our case, our destinations were not secret but the quantum of happiness and satisfaction we attained is just unquantifiable. A trip planning which was going on for more than two years, two months of actual ground work, sleepless nights for finalizing routes and destinations and here we are, a chapter of our lives when we visited the enchanting North East (NE) India and spent 26 beautiful days.

    Safely hidden under the bosom of Mother Nature, lies the unexplored and untouched land of NE India which has been provoking nature lovers in recent times, from far and wide, to explore its magnificence. With mesmerizingly unbound natural beauty and verdant landscapes, this section is tucked away amidst pristine mountains, green hills, cascading waterfalls, undulating streams and exotic wildlife. Being a Northeastern myself (I’m from Guwahati), this was the first time I have seen the true magical beauty of this region. Having visited many places as a kid I might have no recollection of how it looked, but now, the frames are vividly clear and I would definitely reminisce these memories for many more years to come, maybe, till my last breath.

    From a very long time, Atul and I had plans to explore NE part of India. Hearing stories of these beautiful places from me and seeing pictures from various sources Atul was highly determined to do a NE ride sometime very soon. It all started two years when we were at a friend’s place and brought up the topic of riding to NE. The need of minimum 3 weeks leaves, riding to unknown roads and somewhat difficult terrain was what setting back most of them. Despite making an almost final plan for 19 days, somehow the trip didn’t fly off and we ended up doing a Central and Western India ride instead. Yet the itch to do NE ride never left us and we constantly used to follow up with travelogues and stories of people who were explore this region. We subscribed to many NE news feed, Facebook pages and websites which gave us more information about happenings across these places. The mind-blowing images and pictures were too compelling and inviting to be ignored.

    By the beginning of this year, Atul and I were completely determined to do NE ride in the next couple of months. With that motive we had been saving up for the trip for quite some time and serious planning started from the month of February. We decided to do this as a solo trip (only Atul and I) just to see if we are capable of doing a month’s trip all by ourselves. Most of our rides are either accompanied by friends or they would be some short solo 500-600, 4-5 days trip. A lot of research went in understanding the road conditions, weather scenes, accessibility of places by bike, safety and stay. North East has started opening up now for tourists and people are getting to know more about it, however, one can find very less information and detailed description on the internet. We spoke to a lot of our relatives and friends staying in various parts of NE to understand and receive all necessary details.

    Many plans were made, dropped, re-made, again dropped and this continued for several such plans until we boiled down on the final agenda of our ride, day wise destinations, places to see, route maps and stay bookings. Our initial plan was to cover all seven states but then this would mean going off from work for more than a month (we had to take 16 working days leave, and with 8 weekends days and 2 holidays combined for the 26 days). Also, after extensive research, asking around people and Google search we could figure out that major parts of roads in Tripura and Mizoram were literally inaccessible and in very bad shape. We did check with HVK Sir as well on all the roads, their conditions, safety and other details. Finally, we zeroed down on five states, Assam, Meghalaya, Manipur, Arunachal Pradesh and Nagaland. Atul listed all destinations for each day, distance to be covered every day and approximate time of arrival. This time we decided to book hotel on the go.

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    Next thing to do was some tweaking with Hulk and make it ready for an almost close to 10K kms ride. It was very important to keep Hulk fit and fine for the roads less travelled, specifically crossing the notorious Sela Pass. We would be riding through extreme conditions, rains were predicted, snow covered terrain and roads, sudden outburst of Sun, etc. All these things meant Hulk should be strong enough to endure all of the situations. Atul fixed the below items in Hulk:

    · New chain sprocket kit worth Rs 12,000
    · New tyres – Pirelli MT 60 front and rear worth Rs 20,000
    · New Aux lights of Mad Dog worth Rs 9,000
    · New EBC brake pads worth Rs 9,000

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    Along with the upgrades, Hulk was serviced here in Bangalore with the all requirements as our next service was supposed to happen when we reach Kolkata.

    One of our biggest dilemma for this trip was to whether ship Hulk till Guwahati and then carry on with our journey or ride all the way from Bangalore. Shipping the vehicle would mean that we would get additional 7-8 days to explore NE. However, both Atul and I always have this strong feeling that a car/bike trip should begin from home and end at home with the vehicle. It gives us more satisfaction and a kind of inner peace on the wholeness of the journey (this is entirely our notion and we are not at all against people who ship their bikes while in a road trip). Moreover, we are a bit skeptical of the physical damage a bike goes through while most shipments as we heard many incidents where our friends shipped their bikes to particular destinations and the bike wasn’t handled properly by the carriers. The last thing we needed was an injured Hulk so we decided to ride all the way from Bangalore.

    Coming to the amount we spent during the ride, the total expense was Rs 1,04,695. A break-up can be seen below:

    Petrol for 26 days – Rs 34,172
    Food for 2 people – Rs 19,352
    Hotel (16 hotels) – Rs 31,775
    Bike Service at Kolkata – Rs 4240
    Bike wash (2 times) – Rs 200
    Taxi – Rs 6800
    Nagaland and Arunachal Pradesh Permit – Rs 200
    Guide (Root Bridge and Dzukou Valley) – Rs 2000
    Miscellaneous (tickets, parking, shopping, etc.) – Rs 5956

    The most important thing after we were done with the final planning and fixing up Hulk was with preparing the check list of stuff to be carried along with us for this mega trip for 26 days. We had to carefully choose what to take along with us and what not so that we don’t overload ourselves and Hulk, hence prepared a list of all the essential items needed to be carried. The list we prepared was something like this:

    · Bare minimum clothes to survive 26 days (mostly dry fits, extra jeans, extra towels, etc.)
    · Extra pair of shoes, socks
    · Sleeping bags
    · Marriage certificate Xerox (never know when a hotel guy would ask for this)
    · Passports
    · Tool kit, puncture kit and electric inflator
    · Chain lube and cleaners
    · Rain gear
    · Medicines (fever, cough, cold, stomach ache, headache, stool, bandages, crape bandages, motion sickness pills)
    · Gloves to wear during extreme cold weather
    · Slippers
    · All electronic items and their chargers
    · Toiletries (toothpaste, toothbrush, hand sanitizers, hand wash, shampoo, conditioner, body wash, deodorant, comb, sunscreen, body lotion, lip balm, lens solution, etc.)
    · Umbrella
    · Torch or flash light
    · Bluetooth speakers (this was to listen to music when we are bored)
    · Snacks (some biscuits, quick bites, etc. This we refilled along our journey)
    · Tissues (both wet and dry)
    · Sunglasses and anti-glare glasses
    · Cloth cleaning soap (just in case we need to do some quick laundry)
    · Scissors and a small knife
    · A spoon and a glass
    · Thermometer
    · A notepad and a pen

    This list actually covered us up really well. To carry all the things, we took our Dirtsack Frogman saddle bag, Rynox Optimus M Tank Bag, Viaterra Raptor Tail Bag and a back-pack from Decathlon. We also carried our tent chair, extra bungee cords and camera tripod. A week before the ride day, we visited Decathlon store in Bannerghatta road and picked up some important things like warm gloves, trek dry fit pants, flash lights, etc. Atul also picked up a Jio sim to be on the safer side when we run out of Airtel coverage, in case (this wasn’t of much help though).

    As mentioned earlier that we would decide on our hotel stay as in when we are approaching each day’s destination, here is a list of all the hotels we stayed (along with fare for each night):

    · Visakhapatnam – Treebo MVP Grand (Rs 1660 for 1 night in a Deluxe room)
    · Kolkata – Vinayak Guest House (Rs 2541 for 2 nights in a non AC Deluxe room)
    · Siliguri – Hotel Gitanjali Inn (Rs 920 for 1 night in a Deluxe AC room)
    · Guwahati – no stay required, as my parents stay here
    · Bomdila – Anu Homestay (Rs 2000 for 1 night in a non AC Deluxe room)
    · Tawang – Bumla Inn (Rs 2778 for 2 nights in a non AC Deluxe room)
    · Tezpur – Hotel DL (Rs 1076 for 1 night in a Deluxe AC room)
    · Majuli – Kamalabari Satra Guest House (Rs 700 for 1 night – standard room)
    · Sibsagar – Hotel Shiva Palace (Rs 2688 for 2 nights in a Deluxe AC room)
    · Kohima – Hotel Pine (Rs 2000 for 2 nights in a non AC Deluxe room)
    · Imphal – Hotel Lanchenba (Rs 4400 for 2 nights in a Deluxe AC room)
    · Kaziranga – Hotel Kaziranga Continental, Golaghat (Rs 1751 for 1 night in a Deluxe AC room)
    · Shillong – OYO 11853 Pumpkin rooms (Rs 3569 for 2 nights in a Deluxe AC room)
    · Guwahati - no stay required, as my parents stay here
    · Siliguri – Hotel Golden Inn (Rs 1007 for 1 night in a Deluxe AC room)
    · Kolkata – OYO 4102 Guru Kripa (Rs 985 for 1 night in a Deluxe AC room)
    · Visakhapatnam – OYO 13123 SRK Grand (Rs 862 for 1 night in a Deluxe AC room)

    Most of the hotels were good, friendly and quite accommodating, barring few where we had some bitter experiences. Will write about it in details when I get into day wise travelogue.

    In between we kept checking for more details, present situation of the region, floods, landslides, earthquakes (entire NE region is susceptible to earthquakes of magnitude more than 8.0), anti-social activities, road conditions, etc. Though I was happy and excited at the same time, I’m riding towards my birthplace, towards the beauty of my Motherland, yet it is always better to be cautious and alert at the same time. Nearly covered up everything with respect to planning and arranging things, both of us started counting our days backwards as we couldn’t wait for the ride day to come.

    As usual, some quick bytes from our ride:

    Riders: Atul and I (pillion)
    Bike: Kawasaki Versys 650
    Dates: 7th April to 2nd May 2018 (26 days)
    Route taken: BTM > Visakhapatnam > Bhubaneshwar > Kolkata > Dumka > Purnia > Siliguri > Guwahati > Bomdila > Tawang > Tezpur > Majuli > Sibsagar > Kohima > Imphal > Kaziranga (Golaghat) > Shillong > Guwahati > Siliguri > Purnia > Dumka > Kolkata > Visakhapatnam > BTM
    Distance covered: 10000 kms approx.
    Total expenditure (for two people) – Rs 104695

    This was a complete toll free ride

    Along with photos, we have also documented the entire journey in videos. Below are the two videos summarizing our experiences and memories of these 26 days:


    Day-wise videos will be posted shortly.
    __________________
    Ride Safe, Stay Safe!!
    Cheers,
    Nandita

  • #2
    Re: Amazingly magnificent & enchantingly awesome North East India - A 10,000 km Ride!

    Amazing journey man, nicely compiled video too
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    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Amazingly magnificent & enchantingly awesome North East India - A 10,000 km Ride!

      Day 1 (Bangalore to Visakhapatnam – 1105kms)

      Like any other normal ride, Atul did the rituals of filling up Hulk and optimal air pressure on both the tyres, the previous night. For me packing was a bit hectic as I had to travel to Mysore the previous two days on official work and returned only by Friday 8pm. With just few hours left to start the ride and sensing this hassle, I did majority of my packing beforehand. Had to do minor last moment stuffing yet it was taking time. Having slept around 11pm, both of us got up by 2am, got ready, geared up and made the bags ready. By 2:30am both of us were in the parking lot, helping Atul place all the bags properly and securely, it took a while to fasten up everything tightly. Around 3:15am in the morning, locked home, started the bike, hit the road and here it was – beginning of 26 days blissful trip.


      We took the KR Puram road to exit Bangalore city. It was a beautiful, cool, breezy Saturday morning and both of us were extremely excited to embark on this journey for lifetime. The ride was smooth till we reached Kolar and then Mulbagal, by now we crossed 100 odd kms and it was a blissful journey with 4 lane highway all the way. Not much that we could enjoy the nature as it was totally dark at that point of time. We stopped by at a toll booth right after Mulbagal for a quick break as we felt our tail bag was a bit loosely tied up and we needed to fasten it. All of a sudden from nowhere the entire place was covered with a thick blanket of fog and visibility dropped to a large extent. With a 15 mins break we started with our ride once again and may be after some 20kms from this toll booth spot, the 4 lane highway got over and we entered double lane highway with relatively poorer road conditions. Thankfully it started becoming dawn and there was a bit of day light to pour in, this helped us gauge the road and avoid getting inside potholes. The road conditions continued to get worse and pathetic with too many potholes, gravels and uneven road surface. Reached Chittoor at about 7am and all the way till we reached Srinivasa Mangapuram Tirumala Road junction, the state highway was in completely bad condition and it ate up a lot of our time. We did a quick pit stop for tea and some biscuits in between.







      Around 8am we reached Tirupati and took the Tirupati bypass to reach Renigunta, this was a four lane butter smooth highway. From here we reached Srikalahasti and took Puthalapattu-Naidupeta road to reach Naidupeta from where we would connect the highway, NH 16. The road till Naidupeta was in ok conditions, not many potholes but a double lane state highway. After touching highway at Naidupeta by 9:45am, the highway opened and it was mostly a combination of four and six lane highway. The ride was highly boring and the heat of Andhra was getting into us with each passing minute. By now both of us were hungry as well and started looking for a place to eat. We couldn’t find a decent restaurant for quite some time and kept going on and on. Finally, we couldn’t wait any longer and agreed to stop by at a local hut kind of place to have whatever available with them, it was around 10:15am in the morning. The lady gave us some oil dipped vada, plain dosas, some sambar and coconut chutney. With no other option left we gulped down the food and flushed the utterly oily things with a cup of tea. Done with the food, and some rest we decided to move ahead. While turning the bike to get on the highway, Atul couldn’t judge the surface of the ground and the bike fell. I wasn’t on it as was waiting for him to bring the bike up on the highway. Nonetheless nothing happened to the bike as the crash guards took all the impact, only the hand guards had some minor scratches. Not a single bruise for Atul as well. A guy was helpful enough to give a helping hand to Atul in bringing back Hulk onto the wheels (225kgs and with all the luggage, Hulk is a beast in itself).



      Moving on, we kept riding ahead and our next stop was a petrol break. This came after traveling 450kms approx. from home. We have a long way to go. As mentioned earlier, the heat was just unbearable and the highway was a damn boring one. We kept taking breaks in between, be it for photos or for drinking some water, cold drinks, etc. to keep us cool and sane. I was feeling fatigue at times due to lack of proper rest yet reaching our destination was highly important, so we kept going on.












      With lesser breaks from now on and trying to cope up with the hot weather, we covered a lot of kilometers and finally reached Vijayawada at around 3pm in the afternoon. Surprisingly, the weather here was a bit cooler compared to what we faced on the way. However, the worst part was in order to exit the city we almost took 45 mins due to heavy rush, traffic and flyover construction. Hulk and we definitely caught a lot of attention while crossing the city with people asking us the usual curiosity questions (where are we from, where are we going, etc. etc.). As soon as we exited Vijayawada, our next stop was to have lunch. Halted at a dhaba called Dinesh Restaurant and ordered our food, tandoori rotis, dal fry, chicken curry and some cold drinks as they were not serving tea.

      By 4:15pm we completed our lunch, paid the bills, did a quick petrol stop in the petrol bunk nearby and hit the highway again, we had 350kms more to go before we reach our destination. We took lesser breaks and agreed to cover as much distance possible before darkness sets in. It was almost sunset time and we reached a place called Tadepallegudem when Atul felt some wobbling of the wheels. We immediately stopped and after looking properly, there was this puncture. A new tyre and then this puncture, but what else can be done rather than fixing the puncture. Couple of locals offered to help us but with illogical and senseless conditions. One guy told us he will take us to the nearest puncture point but we would need to fill up his bike’s tank fully. Another one told he can point out to the puncture shop but would need Rs 200 from us. Not sure why some people are so insensitive and always in the lookout for minting money from someone’s plight. Anyway, we ignored all of them and took out our puncture kit to locate the exact point of the puncture, fix it and inflate the tyre using the ResQtech Micro electric tyre inflator which we connected to the cigarette lighter port on the dash of the bike. Luckily this place was somewhere near vast crop fields and being evening time, the area was not all crowded. We could do our work peacefully. We wasted some 30 mins here and looked like we were already behind schedule. I quickly clicked some sunset photos and once the puncture was dealt with, we started with our ride.












      For some reason Google asked us to exit the national highway and proceed further by entering Rajahmundry city, which we did around 7pm. Evening time and the town’s roads were jammed with traffic, once again we lost a lot of time navigating through the town roads and reconnecting the national highway. Google Maps can totally screw up someone’s direction at times. The only thing we didn’t wanted to encounter today was rain, but Rain God had other plans. To our dismay, it started drizzling and we could see dark rain clouds all over the sky. There was lightening too. A straight highway, lightening streaks from sky to the horizon, drizzle and windy surroundings, it can’t be scarier than this. We decided to keep moving ahead.

      The entire highway was wet and there were water puddles towards the edges, looked like it rained heavily a while ago. We were very sure that the weather is going to get worse so we stopped right after a toll booth and wore our rain gears, which means even if it rains heavily we could continue moving ahead to how much ever distance possible. Luckily it was just mild drizzles and quite ok to keep riding ahead in the highway. We agreed on not taking dinner break to not lose extra time, decided to call our Treebo hotel to check if we can get food even if we reach a bit late. Hotel folks were quite accommodating and told us that food shouldn’t be an issue as they will arrange something for us.


      Around 11pm we entered Visakhapatnam city and it started to pour in a bit heavily now. It took us a while to locate our hotel but it was 20 mins pass 11 o’clock and we made it to our first destination halt within a day – 20 hours. We were a bit drenched when we reached the hotel but the guys were quite friendly and asked us not to bother about the dirt and all. They were amused by the fact that we rode all the way from Bangalore. We unloaded the bags, which got a bit dirty with the rain splashes and mud on the way but not a single trace of water leaking inside the bags. Atul completed all the hotel formalities while the guy guided me towards our room.

      Treebo MVP Grand in Visakhapatnam is a nice affordable and cozy stay. The hotel is a bit in a cramped up location with not much space to park (Hulk was somehow parked in front of the hotel itself), apparently it is very near to Kailasagiri Beach. But the hotel staff are quite friendly, helpful and polite. The interior of the place is kept very neat and tide (we felt guilty of messing it up with our shoes and wet clothes). We paid Rs 1660 for a night for a Deluxe AC room). The guys also reminded us of the complimentary breakfast in the morning which started from 7am till 10:30am.

      For dinner they helped us with two chicken biriyani which they got it from a nearby restaurant, was still open. Rs 500 for two biriyani was a bit expensive but then in that hunger we didn’t complain much. We got freshened up, took only those things needed for the night, ate our food, kept all electronics for charging and immediately hit the bed. In no time, both of us went to sleep. It was a long tiring day but a fruitful one. Covering more than 1100kms in a day wasn’t easy and we both did it. Next day would bring in another destination but till the dawn let us both rest for a while.

      Here is the video for Day 1:


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      Day 2 (Visakhapatnam to Kolkata - 875kms)

      Our day started at around 7:30am when both of us got up. Surprisingly we weren’t tired at all from the previous day’s ride. Had to leave for Kolkata as soon as possible but then we had to clean up our luggage a bit which got dirty the previous night, we also decided to grab some complimentary breakfast from the hotel before starting. Wiped cleaned all our luggage, riding gears, and shoes/boots. After this we took bath, got ready and headed for some food. Vada, idly, upma, puri and sabji followed by tea was what served for breakfast. Food tasted too good and we ate properly so that the next stop for food should be lunch. One of the hotel guy helped cleaning the dirt off Hulk, such good people. Took us some 20 mins to load the bike with the bags and it was 9am when we started the journey ahead, towards Kolkata.

      It was a nice cool Sunday morning and traffic was a bit low. As soon as we exited Visakhapatnam city limits and entered the national highway, the first thing we did was to tank up Hulk. A straight boring open highway and all we did was keep going on and on. The weather was on our side, it was a breezy warm summer day. Around 11:30am we stopped for a quick water and photo break, this was just to break the monologue of riding continuously. Some more kilometers ahead and we entered Odisha state border by 1pm in the noon between Ichchapuram and Brahmapur. As soon as we entered Odisha, the highway started becoming a bit bumpy and few occasional potholes here and there. The worst was traffic coming in the right lane from the opposite directions with high beams and the herds of cattle, sheep, and cows grazing on the road. We had to be extremely careful and cautious all the while.












      At a place called Ganjam we took our second petrol break for the day around 2pm. This was a large spaced out Indian Oil Petrol bunk with not only many lines for petrol/diesel but also other amenities like rest room area, super clean and tidy wash rooms, changing rooms, food area, etc. I guess the place was called ‘Coco Subalaya’ and I was totally impressed. They had an area towards the back of the main petrol filling station where they had a wall with vehicle number plates from all across the states and union territories in India. The railway tracks ran right behind the station as well. After filling in fuel, taking some rest and freshening up, we started our ride but in another 20kms we had to stop again, the view of Chilika Lake was coming up.




      As we crossed some 20-25kms, the highway turned into a valley and from the top one can see the magnificent view of the vast Chilika Lake. Stopping here is kind of ok if you park your bike/car towards the edge of the highway as it is one way, the opposite lane runs in from a different direction. During my engineering days whenever I took the train between Guwahati and Bangalore, the railway tracks used to pass on very close to the periphery of the lake. The distance view of Chilika is just so mesmerizing and looks almost like a never ending ocean. One can see a lot of fishing boats and also boats giving tourists tour of the lake. Apparently, this is the largest coastal lagoon in India and second largest in the world. The lake is home to many migratory and endangered species of birds. It is also noted that birds as far as the Caspian Sea, other remote parts of Russia, Ladakh and Himalayas come here during season. Since we were quite far from the actual lake we couldn’t see any birds but just some flying by common cranes. The highway, green mountains, blue sky, arrow straight train tracks and the vast spread lake, the sight was just gorgeous and soothing to the soul. We were lucky enough to even witness a train crossing by as well. We spend some time here enjoying the view, clicking pictures, some water and by 3pm we moved forward.
























      With continuously riding for the next couple of hours or so, we finally reached Bhubaneshwar. Without getting much inside the city we could easily exit the city and just before reaching Cuttack we stopped by at a highway dhaba and grabbed some food for the day, it was a long way since we had our breakfast. We ordered tandoori roti, dal fry, fish curry for Atul, omelet and our favorite beverage, tea to end with. It was 5:30pm and another 430kms to reach our today’s destination. Looked like a difficult task but then we didn’t have any other option but to do our best and try to reach Kolkata today itself. Each passing hour made us reach closer to our destination and around 9:45pm we left Odisha border and entered West Bengal via Jaleswar.

      By now fatigue started creeping in and both started feeling restless. We decided to do a quick tea break, while we realized we needed a fuel break as well. Filled in petrol, stopped by at a highway tea shop and drank some 3-4 cups of tea, ate some biscuits and snacks. This was a much needed break for both of us to regain energy and complete the remaining last leg of the today’s ride. We called up the hotel guy and informed them that we would be a bit late in reaching. He told us to reach safely and that to give him a call when we reach, he would open the door. 15 mins and we hit the highway again, didn’t want to spend more time and invite unwanted attention.

      It was 12:30am and we entered the city of Kolkata. Once again locating the hotel was a bit difficult because Google Maps kept giving us alternate routes all the time and Kolkata city roads in itself can be quite confusing. After taking some wrong turns, we finally reached our stay, Vinayak Guest House in Salt Lake City. Gave the guy couple of calls and finally he picked up, opened the door for us and all we needed at that time was confusion. Apparently on the app we booked a room wherein the bathroom is not attached and have to use the common bathroom outside. We asked him if the room can be reallocated now as we would definitely need an attached bathroom room. After much deliberation and discussion he finally agreed to give us a room where the occupant will come in next morning. I felt it was a hassle to get into one room and then in the morning again move to another one with all the luggage, and also pay more. We decided to continue with our existing room and thought of adjusting with the bathroom part. I did a quick check and found it to be neat and tidy to be used (the guy told us that the bathroom is not used by anyone as all other rooms have their own one and this is just like a spare). Atul finished all the checking formalities, got all the luggage and we settled inside the room which costed us Rs 2541 for two nights.

      Vinayak Guest House is an apartment turned into a homestay, neat, clean and very well maintained. It is located in the heart of Salt Lake City overseeing a massive football ground. Parking space isn't too much as cars need to be parked outside, but Hulk could squeeze into a small space inside the main gate. The staff was friendly and quite accommodating, since we reached quite late at night.

      We decided to skip dinner as both of us weren't hungry. Settled our bags, freshened up and hit the sack. No riding tomorrow but have to take Hulk to the service center. The second important task was to reach Nagaland House and get our state permit. 1:30am and both of us went to sleep.

      Here is the video for Day 2:

      ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

      Day 3 (At Kolkata - roughly some 50kms)

      The day started a bit late today as it was more of a relaxing no ride day but then had to finish two very important work - get Hulk serviced and obtain Nagaland state permit from Nagaland House. Both of us got up around 9am in the morning, breakfast was complimentary in the hotel and once we freshened up, folks served us aloo paratha and tea. Done with our food, took bath, got ready and we headed out from the hotel around 10:30am towards Nagaland House.

      Being a Monday morning we did encounter some city traffic and our Google Maps was always on so as to reach places without much hassle, not that G Maps is always accurate but something is better than nothing. We first went to Nagaland House which is in Salt Lake City area but apparently that wasn’t the office from where we would get the permits. They guided us to a different one which is located in Shakespeare Sarani. Without spending much time we headed straight to that office. It took us some 20-25mins to reach the place, made entry into the register book and went upstairs towards the office (located at the 2nd floor of an old building). We had a little argument with the security guard who was quite rude and didn’t let us park Hulk inside the premise of the building, which means park it outside and have the uncertainty of it getting towed away. After some explanations, he reluctantly agreed if we promise to come back really soon.


      Inner Line Permit (ILP) is an official travel document issued by Government of India to allow inward travel of an Indian citizen into a protected area for a limited period. Indian states in the North East which require ILP are Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland and Mizoram. This document is an effort by the government to regulate movement to protected areas located near the international borders.

      We already got our Arunachal Pradesh ILP via online purchase for a sum of Rs 100 (www.arunachalilp.com is the website). Nagaland permit was something which was to be collected in person from offices either from Kolkata, Guwahati or Dimapur. We also needed Nagaland issued ILP as we needed to enter Manipur by road via Dimapur or Kohima. Once we reached the small cramped up office, there were few people lazily sitting around the space. We approached a lady and asked her for the forms and the procedures. She handed over two forms to us very uninterestingly, asked Rs 50 per person for the registration process and Rs 2 per form (we paid a total of Rs 104). We filled in the forms and provided all necessary supporting documents. She told us to come the next day to collect the permits, we told her we were there just for a day and needed the forms by today end of the day since we would leave the city early morning tomorrow. Rudely she replied that she will try what can be done, all the four designated signatories were out of office and not sure when they would return. She asked us to come around 4pm in the evening. I was really pissed off at her behavior, first of all she was reluctant to do her job, and secondly what does she mean that all signatories were out of office - what would happen if there is an emergency situation and someone needs the permit as soon as possible and thirdly, the attitude was so unhelpful. Why is it that the job they are assigned to do is such a burden for some people? Anyway, not much that can be done but to wait until 4pm and see what comes our way.

      Atul called up the Kawasaki Service Centre and asked for appointment. With the present traffic, Google predicted to reach there by 11:45am and our appointment was for 12noon. While we were taking a turn somewhere near the service center few traffic cops stopped us seeing the KA registered vehicle and also Hulk was huge enough to catch their attention. They asked us for our papers, NOC papers to enter Kolkata and the reason for coming to the city. I found this really stupid as in why is it so difficult to travel within our own country and questioned with so many irrelevant questions, neither did we break traffic rules, nor are we some illegal foreigners who entered country illegally. Nonetheless, while we showed all our papers and the reasons for which we were in the city, we didn’t have the NOC papers to be shown as we were not aware that one should carry such papers while traveling within country, within cities. Taking advantage of the situation, the cops demanded Rs2000 as fine from us which was absurdly foolish. When we resisted, questioned back saying can they show us the rule where it is written to pay such amount as fine, and that we were mere travelers who want to go around and see unexplored places and not want to cause any harm, and won’t have so much money to give out, the junior cops asked us to speak to the senior guy. The senior guy looked quite educated, well-groomed and someone who would be in a very high post. Atul went and told him that we don’t have so much money, don’t even have the NOC papers as we were not aware of such rules, the officer asked him to settle the issue and pay whatever money we have. Atul ended up paying Rs200 to them instead of arguing and wasting time. Incident like this really annoys normal citizen like us and takes away whatever little respect we have for the policemen. With a bit of disgust and frustration, we proceed further towards the service center after having lost considerable amount of time in that nuisance situation.

      Sharp 12noon and we were there in the Kawasaki Service Center. There were other bikes lined up, including UMs, Aprilias, Vespas, etc. Atul instructed the guy to do what all work needs to be done in the bike, including oil change, coolant top up, brake checks, etc. The guy promised to deliver the bike around 2pm. Instead of going anywhere else, we decided to spend some time there in the center, wait for the bike to be ready and get it back along with us. Clicked some pictures, took some GoPro videos, drank tea, chit chatted for a while, looked around the other bikes, and time just flew away. Around 2pm we got the bike, bill was around Rs 4240. Thanked the service center manager for getting Hulk serviced on priority (we mentioned him that we are on a 26 days road trip towards NE India, listening to this made him super excited and wished us luck for the remaining part of the ride and gave us a pack of UM branded chain lube and chain cleaner free).


      We had two hours to kill before going to the Nagaland office to collect the permit and Victoria Memorial was quite nearby. I visited this place long back when I was a kid and don’t even recollect how it looked from inside. I convinced Atul to quickly get inside and roam around the palace from outside, this way we will kill time and get a place to visit as well. Just when we were trying to park Hulk in some proper parking area and not finding one, we asked a nearby guarding traffic cop if there is any designated place to park two wheelers. His answer was negative but then he told us we can park next to his vehicle if we gave him Rs 50 while we leave. Not sure whether to laugh, get frustrated, agree to him or keep going round in circles to find some parking place, finally we agreed and parked Hulk next to the vehicle of these cops. Entry fee inside the memorial was Rs 20 for two people.

      Dedicated to the memory of Queen Victoria, Victoria Memorial is one of the most iconic structures in Kolkata, a large marble building. The building is now turned into a museum and tourist destination. With the Hooghly River flowing behind this building, the place is truly a sight to the eyes. The building is surrounded by a sprawling garden, a beautiful clean water lake with trees all along, and statues commemorating Lord Curzon, Queen Victoria, Lord Hastings, Edward VII and many others. We spent some 45 mins here looking around, clicking pictures and then decided to head towards the Nagaland House to collect our permits. Oh! By the way, we did pay the cop Rs 50 as parking fee.


































      Reached the premise around 4:15pm and once again had to convince the security guard to let us park within the premise and we would return soon. Disappointment to the highest level - our forms were just lying there with nothing done and upon asking she told us that the forms can’t be signed today as one of the signatories didn’t come to office, we need to come tomorrow morning. We asked a refund of our money which she refused to give and told that is processing fee. I told what processing fee when the forms were lying there just the way we left it in the morning, but she told whatever it is money can’t be refunded. We asked to provide us a receipt of the same and she mentioned that the receipt book is over. Well, we knew that the money is going nowhere apart from her wallet, we walked out from the office. Our next chance was to try and get the permit from Guwahati office, which meant we would have to stay an extra day in Guwahati (this was not in our actual plan).

      We both were completely furious at the behavior of those people but then we had no other choice left. Decided to forget what has happened and enjoy the remaining part of the evening. The city of joy was not at all joyous for us.

      We planned to go next to famous Prinsep Ghat which was some 12 kms away from Shakespeare Sarani. Evening time and traffic scene is something that goes hand in hand with any city in India. To our much delight, we also got a glimpse of the iconic Eden Gardens (this was the time when IPL was on). Around 6pm we were near the park entry for the ghat. We withdrew some cash from a nearby ATM as we were running low on cash and decided to have some lime water and chaat before entering the park. The porch was constructed on the bank of Hooghly River in the memory of eminent Anglo-Indian scholar and antiquary James Prinsep. The structure resembles a lot towards Greek and Gothic architectures. People visit here in the evenings to go boating, stroll along the bank, eat from the food stalls and get a magnificent view of the Vidyasagar Setu (2nd Hooghly Bridge). Since both of us were completely tired running around the whole day and have to ride again the next day, we spent some 30 mins here and decided to head back hotel.






      By 7:30pm we reached our hotel, took some half an hour rest and then decided to step out for some food. Since everything was within vicinity, we agreed on walking. First we went to a local food place and ordered some authentic Bengali Biriyani, both mutton and chicken, some tandoori rotis and then anda tadka. We were so hungry that the food got over in no time and to top it up, they were extraordinarily awesome. After dinner Atul wanted to have some Nolen Gurer Rasogullas – Rasgullas made out of jaggery and misti doi (sweet curd) (something that can’t be missed if you are in Kolkata). We got inside a sweet shop and had Rasgullas and Misti Doi. With a full stomach and equally full blissful soul from the amazing sumptuous dinner, we took a stroll back to the hotel.


      Did most of our packing for the ride again tomorrow to reach Siliguri. Plan was to start as early as possible and reach Siliguri during day light. 11pm and we went to sleep.

      Here is the video for Day 3:

      __________________
      Ride Safe, Stay Safe!!
      Cheers,
      Nandita

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Amazingly magnificent & enchantingly awesome North East India - A 10,000 km Ride!

        Very thoughtful and nicely written travel log, waiting for the upcoming part... Kolkata cops are completely corrupted I agree as its my home town!!

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Amazingly magnificent & enchantingly awesome North East India - A 10,000 km Ride!

          Superbly put!
          Equally beautiful captures!
          A bike on the road is worth two in the shed.

          Weekend Rides Around Kolkata
          My Ride To Sunderbans -
          Hemnagar & Samsernagar
          Saagar Kinare - Bakkhali Calling

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Amazingly magnificent & enchantingly awesome North East India - A 10,000 km Ride!

            An excellent travel story. Keep the journey. All the best wishes for you both, keep those wheel rolling.
            Yamaha SZ16R: 2011 - Present.
            Tvs Fiero FX: 2009 - 2011.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Amazingly magnificent & enchantingly awesome North East India - A 10,000 km Ride!

              Hot Damn! Oh my my. I am pleasantly jealous of both of you :P
              Glued to this thread. Keep it coming!
              My Travelogues:

              1. Mumbai - Hampi

              2. Insanity

              3. Himachal

              4. Delhi - Jaisalmer

              5. Spitified : Delhi - Nako - Delhi

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Amazingly magnificent & enchantingly awesome North East India - A 10,000 km Ride!

                One doubt Nandita...why you guys went all the way back from imphal to bokakhat on those bad roads??when imphal to silchar is perfect road and silchar to shillong via jowai is breeze..super smooth tarmac.
                Right now I am in shillong..completed all these circuit on my impulse..will share my experince soon..followed your logs for my prep..thanks.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Amazingly magnificent & enchantingly awesome North East India - A 10,000 km Ride!

                  Really amazingly magnificent👍

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Amazingly magnificent & enchantingly awesome North East India - A 10,000 km Ride!

                    Waiting for Day4.😲

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Amazingly magnificent & enchantingly awesome North East India - A 10,000 km Ride!

                      Originally posted by J42 View Post
                      Waiting for Day4.😲
                      Waiting for Day4 for last 4Days.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Amazingly magnificent & enchantingly awesome North East India - A 10,000 km Ride!

                        Marvelous pictures and equally justified write-up. Eagerly waiting for the next days' log. Good luck to you both!
                        Honda Dio [2010 - 2011]
                        Yamaha YZF R15 V2 [2011 - Present]
                        Yamaha YZF R3 [2016 - Present]

                        What's next? :)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Amazingly magnificent & enchantingly awesome North East India - A 10,000 km Ride!

                          Waiting for Day 4 for last 4 weeks

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Amazingly magnificent & enchantingly awesome North East India - A 10,000 km Ride!

                            Waiting for day 4[emoji2]

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Amazingly magnificent & enchantingly awesome North East India - A 10,000 km Ride!

                              Originally posted by Kapil Kumar View Post
                              Amazing journey man, nicely compiled video too
                              Thanks Kapil

                              Originally posted by Anuj Agarwal View Post
                              Very thoughtful and nicely written travel log, waiting for the upcoming part... Kolkata cops are completely corrupted I agree as its my home town!!
                              Thanks Anuj

                              The experience with Kolkata cops was indeed an unpleasant one!

                              Originally posted by krishna77 View Post
                              Superbly put!
                              Equally beautiful captures!
                              Thanks Krishna

                              Originally posted by sayanchakraborty89 View Post
                              An excellent travel story. Keep the journey. All the best wishes for you both, keep those wheel rolling.
                              Thanks Sayan

                              Originally posted by DocOnTwoWheels View Post
                              Hot Damn! Oh my my. I am pleasantly jealous of both of you :P
                              Glued to this thread. Keep it coming!
                              Thanks Doc

                              Originally posted by xfiasco View Post
                              One doubt Nandita...why you guys went all the way back from imphal to bokakhat on those bad roads??when imphal to silchar is perfect road and silchar to shillong via jowai is breeze..super smooth tarmac.
                              Right now I am in shillong..completed all these circuit on my impulse..will share my experince soon..followed your logs for my prep..thanks.
                              When we went the road from Imphal to Silchar via Jiribam was in an extremely bad shape, this was confirmed by HVK sir and other sources. That road finally got repaired few months after we were back. It's indeed a lot easier to track back to Assam from Manipur through this route.

                              Originally posted by J42 View Post
                              Really amazingly magnificent������
                              Thanks

                              Originally posted by Ashwiin Napster View Post
                              Marvelous pictures and equally justified write-up. Eagerly waiting for the next days' log. Good luck to you both!
                              Thanks Ashwin

                              Originally posted by J42 View Post
                              Waiting for Day 4 for last 4 weeks
                              Really sorry to keep you guys waiting, will upload rest of the days soon

                              Originally posted by manu1202 View Post
                              Waiting for day 4[emoji2]
                              Soon
                              __________________
                              Ride Safe, Stay Safe!!
                              Cheers,
                              Nandita

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