All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveler is unaware of and at the end of this journey all we gather are innumerable memories, experiences, happiness which we spin together into a story to relish for the rest of our lives. Though in our case, our destinations were not secret but the quantum of happiness and satisfaction we attained is just unquantifiable. A trip planning which was going on for more than two years, two months of actual ground work, sleepless nights for finalizing routes and destinations and here we are, a chapter of our lives when we visited the enchanting North East (NE) India and spent 26 beautiful days.
Safely hidden under the bosom of Mother Nature, lies the unexplored and untouched land of NE India which has been provoking nature lovers in recent times, from far and wide, to explore its magnificence. With mesmerizingly unbound natural beauty and verdant landscapes, this section is tucked away amidst pristine mountains, green hills, cascading waterfalls, undulating streams and exotic wildlife. Being a Northeastern myself (I’m from Guwahati), this was the first time I have seen the true magical beauty of this region. Having visited many places as a kid I might have no recollection of how it looked, but now, the frames are vividly clear and I would definitely reminisce these memories for many more years to come, maybe, till my last breath.
From a very long time, Atul and I had plans to explore NE part of India. Hearing stories of these beautiful places from me and seeing pictures from various sources Atul was highly determined to do a NE ride sometime very soon. It all started two years when we were at a friend’s place and brought up the topic of riding to NE. The need of minimum 3 weeks leaves, riding to unknown roads and somewhat difficult terrain was what setting back most of them. Despite making an almost final plan for 19 days, somehow the trip didn’t fly off and we ended up doing a Central and Western India ride instead. Yet the itch to do NE ride never left us and we constantly used to follow up with travelogues and stories of people who were explore this region. We subscribed to many NE news feed, Facebook pages and websites which gave us more information about happenings across these places. The mind-blowing images and pictures were too compelling and inviting to be ignored.
By the beginning of this year, Atul and I were completely determined to do NE ride in the next couple of months. With that motive we had been saving up for the trip for quite some time and serious planning started from the month of February. We decided to do this as a solo trip (only Atul and I) just to see if we are capable of doing a month’s trip all by ourselves. Most of our rides are either accompanied by friends or they would be some short solo 500-600, 4-5 days trip. A lot of research went in understanding the road conditions, weather scenes, accessibility of places by bike, safety and stay. North East has started opening up now for tourists and people are getting to know more about it, however, one can find very less information and detailed description on the internet. We spoke to a lot of our relatives and friends staying in various parts of NE to understand and receive all necessary details.
Many plans were made, dropped, re-made, again dropped and this continued for several such plans until we boiled down on the final agenda of our ride, day wise destinations, places to see, route maps and stay bookings. Our initial plan was to cover all seven states but then this would mean going off from work for more than a month (we had to take 16 working days leave, and with 8 weekends days and 2 holidays combined for the 26 days). Also, after extensive research, asking around people and Google search we could figure out that major parts of roads in Tripura and Mizoram were literally inaccessible and in very bad shape. We did check with HVK Sir as well on all the roads, their conditions, safety and other details. Finally, we zeroed down on five states, Assam, Meghalaya, Manipur, Arunachal Pradesh and Nagaland. Atul listed all destinations for each day, distance to be covered every day and approximate time of arrival. This time we decided to book hotel on the go.
Next thing to do was some tweaking with Hulk and make it ready for an almost close to 10K kms ride. It was very important to keep Hulk fit and fine for the roads less travelled, specifically crossing the notorious Sela Pass. We would be riding through extreme conditions, rains were predicted, snow covered terrain and roads, sudden outburst of Sun, etc. All these things meant Hulk should be strong enough to endure all of the situations. Atul fixed the below items in Hulk:
· New chain sprocket kit worth Rs 12,000
· New tyres – Pirelli MT 60 front and rear worth Rs 20,000
· New Aux lights of Mad Dog worth Rs 9,000
· New EBC brake pads worth Rs 9,000
Along with the upgrades, Hulk was serviced here in Bangalore with the all requirements as our next service was supposed to happen when we reach Kolkata.
One of our biggest dilemma for this trip was to whether ship Hulk till Guwahati and then carry on with our journey or ride all the way from Bangalore. Shipping the vehicle would mean that we would get additional 7-8 days to explore NE. However, both Atul and I always have this strong feeling that a car/bike trip should begin from home and end at home with the vehicle. It gives us more satisfaction and a kind of inner peace on the wholeness of the journey (this is entirely our notion and we are not at all against people who ship their bikes while in a road trip). Moreover, we are a bit skeptical of the physical damage a bike goes through while most shipments as we heard many incidents where our friends shipped their bikes to particular destinations and the bike wasn’t handled properly by the carriers. The last thing we needed was an injured Hulk so we decided to ride all the way from Bangalore.
Coming to the amount we spent during the ride, the total expense was Rs 1,04,695. A break-up can be seen below:
Petrol for 26 days – Rs 34,172
Food for 2 people – Rs 19,352
Hotel (16 hotels) – Rs 31,775
Bike Service at Kolkata – Rs 4240
Bike wash (2 times) – Rs 200
Taxi – Rs 6800
Nagaland and Arunachal Pradesh Permit – Rs 200
Guide (Root Bridge and Dzukou Valley) – Rs 2000
Miscellaneous (tickets, parking, shopping, etc.) – Rs 5956
The most important thing after we were done with the final planning and fixing up Hulk was with preparing the check list of stuff to be carried along with us for this mega trip for 26 days. We had to carefully choose what to take along with us and what not so that we don’t overload ourselves and Hulk, hence prepared a list of all the essential items needed to be carried. The list we prepared was something like this:
· Bare minimum clothes to survive 26 days (mostly dry fits, extra jeans, extra towels, etc.)
· Extra pair of shoes, socks
· Sleeping bags
· Marriage certificate Xerox (never know when a hotel guy would ask for this)
· Passports
· Tool kit, puncture kit and electric inflator
· Chain lube and cleaners
· Rain gear
· Medicines (fever, cough, cold, stomach ache, headache, stool, bandages, crape bandages, motion sickness pills)
· Gloves to wear during extreme cold weather
· Slippers
· All electronic items and their chargers
· Toiletries (toothpaste, toothbrush, hand sanitizers, hand wash, shampoo, conditioner, body wash, deodorant, comb, sunscreen, body lotion, lip balm, lens solution, etc.)
· Umbrella
· Torch or flash light
· Bluetooth speakers (this was to listen to music when we are bored)
· Snacks (some biscuits, quick bites, etc. This we refilled along our journey)
· Tissues (both wet and dry)
· Sunglasses and anti-glare glasses
· Cloth cleaning soap (just in case we need to do some quick laundry)
· Scissors and a small knife
· A spoon and a glass
· Thermometer
· A notepad and a pen
This list actually covered us up really well. To carry all the things, we took our Dirtsack Frogman saddle bag, Rynox Optimus M Tank Bag, Viaterra Raptor Tail Bag and a back-pack from Decathlon. We also carried our tent chair, extra bungee cords and camera tripod. A week before the ride day, we visited Decathlon store in Bannerghatta road and picked up some important things like warm gloves, trek dry fit pants, flash lights, etc. Atul also picked up a Jio sim to be on the safer side when we run out of Airtel coverage, in case (this wasn’t of much help though).
As mentioned earlier that we would decide on our hotel stay as in when we are approaching each day’s destination, here is a list of all the hotels we stayed (along with fare for each night):
· Visakhapatnam – Treebo MVP Grand (Rs 1660 for 1 night in a Deluxe room)
· Kolkata – Vinayak Guest House (Rs 2541 for 2 nights in a non AC Deluxe room)
· Siliguri – Hotel Gitanjali Inn (Rs 920 for 1 night in a Deluxe AC room)
· Guwahati – no stay required, as my parents stay here
· Bomdila – Anu Homestay (Rs 2000 for 1 night in a non AC Deluxe room)
· Tawang – Bumla Inn (Rs 2778 for 2 nights in a non AC Deluxe room)
· Tezpur – Hotel DL (Rs 1076 for 1 night in a Deluxe AC room)
· Majuli – Kamalabari Satra Guest House (Rs 700 for 1 night – standard room)
· Sibsagar – Hotel Shiva Palace (Rs 2688 for 2 nights in a Deluxe AC room)
· Kohima – Hotel Pine (Rs 2000 for 2 nights in a non AC Deluxe room)
· Imphal – Hotel Lanchenba (Rs 4400 for 2 nights in a Deluxe AC room)
· Kaziranga – Hotel Kaziranga Continental, Golaghat (Rs 1751 for 1 night in a Deluxe AC room)
· Shillong – OYO 11853 Pumpkin rooms (Rs 3569 for 2 nights in a Deluxe AC room)
· Guwahati - no stay required, as my parents stay here
· Siliguri – Hotel Golden Inn (Rs 1007 for 1 night in a Deluxe AC room)
· Kolkata – OYO 4102 Guru Kripa (Rs 985 for 1 night in a Deluxe AC room)
· Visakhapatnam – OYO 13123 SRK Grand (Rs 862 for 1 night in a Deluxe AC room)
Most of the hotels were good, friendly and quite accommodating, barring few where we had some bitter experiences. Will write about it in details when I get into day wise travelogue.
In between we kept checking for more details, present situation of the region, floods, landslides, earthquakes (entire NE region is susceptible to earthquakes of magnitude more than 8.0), anti-social activities, road conditions, etc. Though I was happy and excited at the same time, I’m riding towards my birthplace, towards the beauty of my Motherland, yet it is always better to be cautious and alert at the same time. Nearly covered up everything with respect to planning and arranging things, both of us started counting our days backwards as we couldn’t wait for the ride day to come.
As usual, some quick bytes from our ride:
Riders: Atul and I (pillion)
Bike: Kawasaki Versys 650
Dates: 7th April to 2nd May 2018 (26 days)
Route taken: BTM > Visakhapatnam > Bhubaneshwar > Kolkata > Dumka > Purnia > Siliguri > Guwahati > Bomdila > Tawang > Tezpur > Majuli > Sibsagar > Kohima > Imphal > Kaziranga (Golaghat) > Shillong > Guwahati > Siliguri > Purnia > Dumka > Kolkata > Visakhapatnam > BTM
Distance covered: 10000 kms approx.
Total expenditure (for two people) – Rs 104695
This was a complete toll free ride
Along with photos, we have also documented the entire journey in videos. Below are the two videos summarizing our experiences and memories of these 26 days:
Day-wise videos will be posted shortly.
































































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