oye! there are always more than one pic in the teasers

btw , is it me or everyone can spot a pulsar here

I want a write up.. I dont want any pics

PS: Because I have seen them all

finally its up :-)

Interesting stats.. will wait for the log to know more.

People are making up my absence by posting teasers.

+1
2 clutch plates changed?

12 pee breaks?? So you counted that the number of pee breaks you took over 6 days of riding..

Quite interesting stat. I am seeing a Pulsar there.

you seeing a pulsar? Its a R1 over there in the pic....look again!

My ride of the year (yet).

There is always a background story to rides like these. Strong motivating factors, situations, and/or circumstances occur which make a person look around and debunk everything he sees around him, and urge him to get away from it all. No different in my case as well. A personal setback, left a deep gash in my psyche, and belief in many things considered sacred, occurred which left me brooding and wanting to introspect. I have always turned to my bikes for solace, and comfort in the open roads. My bikes, have never let me down when I've turned to them after a hard day's work or generally when I want to clear my head with a short 2 hour ride, or a long trip like this.

I did not sound out any of my riding mates, as I wanted to be alone as much as I could. The route, was based on the the basis of the ride. I wanted to see as many waterfalls in South India as possible. I drew up an initial list, planned the route, and started off on August 29th. The weapon of choice, was my Pulsar 180. Having never taken it on an extended tour, and wanting to take full advantage of it's relative superiority as a tourer, saddle-bagged it and hooked up a cigarette lighter adapter to power the GPS. It was all set to take me wherever.

Day 1: Bangalore - Chitradurga - Haveri - Bankapur - Mundgod - Yellapur.
Distance : 445 kms.

http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=341635

I chose to head up north, because from a previous trip to the area, I realised that there are quite a few waterfalls in the area which are famous, and quite a few off the beaten track as well. There were 3-4 waterfalls around the Yellapur town area itself, and so I made that my destination for the day.





Set off leisurely at around 10.45 from Bangalore and I was determined to use the good stretch of NH4 as quickly as possible, so as to save time and reach Yellapur before sundown. It was a non stop flat out blast to Chitradurga, where I stopped for a break and some water. On the way, I also set a personal best top speed of 116 on the 180. Felt good that my 5 year old machine still had a lot of spunk in it, despite being bogged down by a fatter front tyre, saddlebags, and an Exhaustec-ed exhaust.



I continued on, and planned my next stop for lunch at Ranibennur. I was doing pretty good speeds, so I began relaxing and enjoying the scenery, with the OST of Quick Gun Murugan playing in my helmet

As I rode past Davangere and the bad stretches of NH4, I noticed that the bad stretches have become worse due to the rains, and some serious patience is required to tackle this stretch till Haveri. I reached BPCL Ghar Dhaba in Ranibennur around 3.30, and sat down to have a leisurely late lunch. Since my destination was not more than a couple of hours away, I ate slow and took a small 15 min power nap as well It was a nice stop, and I was surprised to see that the Ghar Dhaba chaps recognised me from a couple of months back from when I rode into the place on the MT-01. I keep forgetting how these things are considered as a memorable event in some places

I tanked up here, and found that the 180 was giving out a mileage of around 35. I was not quite sure what was happening, as to why it was giving such a bad mileage.



Anyway, I got going, and I was immediately stopped by a couple of very long railway crossings. I lost about 30 minutes there, and soon took off towards Bankapur.





I chose to take the Mundgod route to Yellapur, instead of Hubli, because I was not very keen on riding on the GQ so much. I found the turn off to Mundgod, after talking to some villagers in the field. The dialect of Kannada they speak in those parts is like music to my ears, even though I have difficulty in understanding it at times. This despite being born and brought up in Bangalore . They were busy with the crops, and despite that they took a break and shared some of their delightful jolada roti. You get these in Bangalore as well, but this was just something else.

Anyway, I wanted to move on, bid my goodbyes to them, and continued on the road to Mundgod. I was not really sure how these roads would be, because it is the rainy season for one, and our Karnataka Government is not known for prioritising State roads in their development agenda. Most roads in the state are downright horrible. But this was an exception.

Although two laned, and undivided, the surface was newly laid and surrounded by beautiful country side, I was beginning to achieve what I set out for. Inner peace.











Soon it started raining, and I packed my DSLR away in my saddlebag, and continued. Apart from the frequent cattle on the road, this route is just brilliant. Even in the rain, I was able to keep up pretty good speeds. On the way, just out of Mundgod, I passed through some Buddhist settlements, and I was curious to know more because I hadn't heard of any Tibetan presence in the area. These settlements literally came up when I rode over a crest in the road and took me by surprise. Since Yellapur was only about 45 min way by now, I decided to see if I could visit the place. I parked near the gate of one, and asked if I could spend some time inside. I was welcomed in, and as I walked in with the smiling welcoming party who went by the name of Phuntsok, I realised just how big the settlement was. It was called Doeguling, and was mostly self-sufficient, and self-governed, and modelled on the Namdroling settlement at Bylakuppe. Except, this was much bigger, and more peaceful.

I was taken to the monastery hall, which was like stepping into another dimension altogether. Massive statues, and an peacefully imposing throne in the center of the hall greeted me. I spent some time here as Phuntsok took me through the place, and I was given a small, but powerful insight of Buddhism, and the under current of their continuing struggle for their own land.

With my mind full of diverging thoughts, I took leave from Doeguling and got back on the road. I had spent nearly 45 minutes inside, and it was still raining. I continued on towards Yellapur, and on the way, I saw sights which were straight out of a movie shoot location, or a National Geographic cover. I had to decide where to stop and sometimes had to continue without stopping. The last time I was in such a situation was back in 2004 when I did Leh-Ladakh, so it was a very welcome feeling in a way.

But one place where I was forced to stop was just about 20 kms out of Yellapur, if memory serves right. The road just ended in a pile of stones, and it was clear that there was some construction activity going on behind it. I did not see any diversion / alternate road beside it, as is the case when the road is being repaired etc. I rode back 500 mts and found someone walking by the road, and asked him. He said the road lead to a bridge which had collapsed long ago, and all that existed now was a foot bridge, which I could cross on the bike. He showed me the trail leading to the footbridge, and with some apprehension, I took it. Sure enough, it lead to a narrow foot bridge, where 2 people would have difficulty walking shoulter to shoulder. It was beyond belief, and I couldn't help grinning and taking photos of the scene.









I crossed the bridge, and continued on to Yellapur. It was a nice green forested route, and I reached there while riding through a downpour, and headed to the only accomodation in the place, Hotel Sambhram. It is quite seedy, and basic, which naturally meant dirt cheap. I got a room with TV for 200 bucks, and began sorting out my stuff. Most of my exterior gear was wet, and I laid them out to dry and began to relax.

Tata Sky Plus



I did some research for the next day, and reflected on the day's ride. Flat out GQ parts, glimpse of a simple village life, a chance encounter and visit in a Tibetan settlement, a funny bridge / river crossing, and some fantastic scenery on Day 1.

If Day 1 was so good, what would the next 9 days hold? I couldn't wait, as I dozed off.

(Contd).

beautiful indeed. truely a ride of a life time..

More More and make it quick

Good pics and log! As Mithun said, need more....

Nice triplog...and the seeking the inner calm strikes a chord too. I had a 400 km, 8-hr trip just seeking that. Also to prove to myself that I ride better when I ride alone.

Day 2:

Yellapur-Sathodi Falls-Lalguli Falls-Magod Falls-Shivgange Falls-Sirsi-Siddapur.

Distance: 200 kms (approx)



Woke up fresh and early, as I had a quite a lot of ground to cover. Most of the gear was dry, but it had rained all night outside. It was going to be a very very damp day.

My first target for the day was Sathodi Falls, followed by Lalguli Falls. Both are close to Yellapur, (Sathodi - 27 kms and 45 min away; Laguli - 35 kms and 1 hour away) on the road to Hubli. I set off for Sathodi Falls, and to my surprise, found that the beautiful roads continued even here. There were stretches of twisties where I could scrape footpegs, but did not want to because I had a rear tyre that I was not sure about. Fresh air, thick forests on either sides, beautiful roads, I could just keep on going.





Unfortunately, approximately 5 kms away from Sathodi Falls, the road turned bad, and it was all mud and slush from then on till the falls. I had o drop my speed and gradually, I reached the entrance to the waterfalls.



For a place which is fairly famous, it is pretty much ignored by our tourism department. From the entrance, one has to walk about 1.5 kms to the falls along a trail which has a little stream keeping it company by the side for the most part. Also giving company were snakes



Anyway, I walked along and finally reached the waterfalls. It was an imposing sight, and also completely isolated. Not a soul in sight. I had the whole place to myself.



I walked as far as I could dare to the water's edge, and took some photos and spent some time there.





It began raining and I got my raincoat on and began to walk back. I had spent almost 45 minutes at the waterfalls, and I hadn't even realised it. I walked back to my bike, and returned to the Hubli main road and started towards Lalguli. On the way, I was stopped by some locals who refused to let me proceed forward as there was "nothing to see" in Lalguli Falls. WHen I asked why, I was informed that since it was the rainy season, they take it upon themselves to not let people through to the waterfalls, because it is very dangerous at this time. I tried explaining that I've come specifically for this reason that it's the monsoon etc but to no avail. I had to return back to Yellapur. One waterfall short. I got back to the lodge, and had some quick breakfast.

While having breakfast, I met a gentleman, who mentioned another waterfall in the area, which few people knew about. I would have to double back on the road to Sathodi Falls, and go offroad to reach this place. He mentioned the road would be terrible and only jeeps would frequent the area. I didn't need any more motivation, and left immediately. Enjoyed the twisties and the road again, and found the turn-off to Kanchinagadde Falls with some difficulty. It was nothing more than a hiking trail, and I enjoyed riding the pegs and blipping the clutch on the 9 km stretch to the waterfall. Reached it in about 25 minutes, and took some quick photos. I could only view it across a valley from the road on which I was on, and it made for a pretty sight. Spent a few minutes there, and I turned back for Yellapur.





Reached Yellapur, and I straightaway took off for Magod Falls, which is again about 30 kms away but in the other direction. Great roads once again, and I was able to reach Magod quickly. The first indication of this waterfall being a famous one is that they were collecting entry fees

As I got to the view point, I saw that the waterfalls were across a valley, and was completely engulfed in thick fog.


There were a few families who waited with me, but lost patience and left. I walked around the place, and felt sure that the fog would lift. Sure enough, half an hour later, the fog began clearing up.















It was indeed a beautiful sight. Satisfied, I took a small stone trail leading away along the viewpoint lines. I reached another lookout point, where I could see Shirle Falls, far away across another valley.







Some quick photos later, I walked back to my bike and left the place. I returned to the lodge, where I saddled up, packed and left for Sirsi. The plan was to visit Shivgange Falls which was close to Sirsi. Once again, I was greeted by wide expanses of beautiful tarmac, with sparse traffic.






I touched Sonda, a famous religious / spiritual hub with a few mathas located here. This was the turn off point towards Hulekal, and then to Vanalli, and finally Shivagange Falls.

The last few kms into Shivgange Falls were again like Sathodi. Except here, it was just rocks, and I was bouncing over them with my teeth chattering, and my arms pumping like the shock springs. Shivgange Falls was again another example of ignored opportunities. Debris strewn everywhere, railings along the steps missing (scary as hell)! As for the falls, it was located far away, and partially blocked by trees.









In other places which are more accessible, the authorities make sure the trees are pruned and the waterfalls visible, so here they had been allowed to grow back. Anyway, I saw a small trail leading down from the viewpoint, and I got a bit adventurous and took it. It was a steep trail going down, and after about 15 min of descent, and the trail becoming increasingly faint, I began having the jitters. Finally, the trail ended in a bush, and I had had enough. Turned back, and I had a tough time climbing up the trail, which in some places was a sharp incline. My knees were almost brushing my chin, and I began tiring quickly, being the tummied city slicker that I unfortunately have ended up as.

Finally got back to the viewpoint on the top, and polished off a Dairy Milk while waiting the rain off, which had started again. I decided that it wouldn't stop, and I began saddling up again. I left for Sirsi, where I was planning to have a late lunch. Took off and reached Sirsi by around 4, and I discovered that I had leeches on my arms and legs. Got the Zippo out and took care of them, and had a nice bonda and dosa for lunch.

I replenished my stock of Dairy Milk bars, and left for my halting point for the day, which was a home stay near Siddapur. I have fond memories of this area, and as I was passing by I was lost in nostalgia and I stopped just outside Siddapur town for a tea break. That's when I had my first real problem on the trip. The Pulsar was just refusing to start up. It was almost 6 PM, the rain was pouring down like no man's business, and I was losing light fast. THe home stay was about 20 kms away from that point. As I was trying to find the problem, a man from a nearby bus stop walked over and offered to help. He was a mechanic, and looked at the plugs which weren't sparking at all. It was an electrical issue and it made sense because my Pulsar has been afflicted by some or the other electrical gremlin since the last one year. He said he could not help further, but gave the number of another mechanic who could. I pushed the bike over to the bus stop, and called this chap. He was about half an hour away and said he would come over as soon as the rain stopped. I decided to try and fix it myself. I removed the panels, dome etc and began checking the wires and continuity. I had come prepared with the relevant tools and meters, so it was easy but the rain and poor light was slowing things down. I removed almost every connector, wiped it, and re-connected it back, and cranked it, and the Pulsar fired up. Figuring that it had some thing to do with the ignition circuit under the dome, I reassembled the panels, repacked the tools and got going.

By now it was 730 and the rain was heavier still. Strangely, my spirits were up and I was enjoying the situation. Except for the odd pothole every now and then, it was a comfortable, albeit slow pace. The uprated headlight on my Pulsar was doing it's job and I reached NH 206 in about 45 min. I turned towards Jog Falls, according to the directions given to me, but I couldn't find this place and overshot it by a few kms. I returned and rode slowly in the rain, found the home stay at last. When I reached there, I found that there were a couple of other bikers there who had just arrived there. Dripping wet, I dumped stuff around, tended to my leech bites, and took a nice hot shower.





I had dinner, talked to the caretaker of the place for a while, planned my day out and slept peacefully.

EDIT: Before I slept, I met one of the other bikers who had ridden up to the place via Agumbe, and were heading to Kodachadri the next day. I spent some time discussing the route and chatting with him, and it felt nice seeing more and more bikers hitting the road on tours.

End of Day 2.