Day4

30 Aug 2009 | KAZA - Tabbo - Pooh - Kinnaur - Rampur.

7:20 AM: Kaza in morning
I took a stroll in the morning for about an hour, witnesses beautiful sunrise, and went to the temple at the back of our hotel over a small hill. This was the fourth day and that means all of them have to head back to Delhi a day after.

I felt obligated to meet the cook, he was regretful about yesterday. He came clean after a while. It seems they were a little baffled with all that order and being new and a few hands short they blew it. Regretfully he added "we are not bad cooks (evident from the delicious soup) do give us another chance if you come this way.

5:30 PM: You Moron! And the evening6:10 PM: Kinnaur delay
We encountered an engineering feat, on the way there was water coming out of a mountain (over the road in a concrete channel) to fall over into a turbine down below. The sound it made was deafening.



It was about 6pm and we still had technically 3-4 hours of drive left to Shimla. The sunlight kept going down. However that was not the problem, the problem was that now we were in a construction site that runs all along the road. And the road was filled with mud - slippery, grimy, slimy, mud. And that was not much of a problem either; the real problem was that whole stretch was only 15kms short. Oh I forgot to add that we had even more problems, like we both were trailing and I was driving slow by Sid's standards so he asked me to drive faster. I thought about it and decided to let him lead instead.

7:20 PM: Rains, mud, big trucks and annoying darkness
To engage Shimla a plan was hatched, it was decided that we will keep together all the time. If one is trailing too much he can honk and blink, the message will be transferred further. I was at the back yet again driving safe, but not as much as to lose them. Suddenly the traffic seemed to have increased, probably people were going home. On a problematic surface such as this there were too many impatient drivers and needless to say it was quite unsafe out there. I think all in all we clocked around 20-25 Km/Hr through that stretch. Finally after we crossed a big bridge, the road was good once again. From the road we could see below the flood lights, tunnels and various road arteries with varied construction machinery all glowing in orange fluorescent lamps, challenging nature in its extreme conditions.


After crossing the big bridge we were a lot relaxed driving on tarmac, now suddenly Shimla seemed reachable. I saw Sudi up ahead giving the guys what I believe was a 'go ahead at your best speed' signal, since I saw Jatin and Sid rocketing off almost immediately. Now the rains were continuous and my rain coat tent was flapping at speeds in access of 40kmHr. Most of the times I was driving just fast enough to keep the guy ahead in my view. I think for the first time in our four day travel I was experiencing reduced hand to eye coordination. I had enough reserves for that day but felt if we can reach a place close to Shimla with nice accommodation we should break. Jatin Sudi and Manish went ahead, Lovey and Sudi kept ahead for some time, calmly I might add, finally they slowed down to my side; Sudi suggested that we must drive fast.


I was not able to deter Sudi's determination but his old PAL did. We saw a man swaggering in pithiness standing near to his fallen bike. The moment I had my eyes on his frail and stumpy body standing near his fallen bike I knew he was drunk, he signalled us to stop. Sudi parked his bike close to him and the man asked Sudi to lift his bike for him, which he did. And he started to thank Sudi for the greatest of all deeds; he even proclaimed that Sudi was his best PAL.

10:30PM: Reaching the inglorious Rampur11:10 PM: The cockroach hotel



There were cockroaches running around in few rooms which we skipped. The owner was a complete asshole though, we asked him to slightly adjust the AC room fare just to offset the dirty rooms where we could not sleep. Frankly at this time of year you aren't going to use either AC or heater anyway. But he declined with an air of someone couldn't care less. Of course he knew we did not have any other option. The hotel was a complete cheap ass, looked like they never change a thing from past 15 years it was dirty to say the least.

Day4

Day5

31 Aug 2009 | Rampur - Shimla - Kalka - Chandigarh - Ambala - Karnal - New Delhi
I woke up at 5:10, and went to the porch, sat there for a while, watching the Satluz River and the morning activity over the bridge, then got out for a stroll. The sky was in the mood for rains. At 6:30am I banged the doors of nomads. We were late and left at around 8am. The road was good, about four-five Maruti wide . From the start I kept the lead till a sudden burst of rain stopped me. Learning from the last night I pulled out a spare bungee cord and took time to tie it like a belt around the tent. Now I could touch 60 without being tied down . I saw Sid waiting for me, he inquired curiously, I told him about the fluttering raincoat, a smile broke on his face. At around 11am we were signalled by waiting nomads at a Dhabha. A Parantha’s round ensued. We left at around 12am. Determined to be at front this time, I took off with Manish while others were still packing their gear.

8:10 AM: Of Fog and rains
The continuous rain made it us slowing down; it kept getting colder as we approached Kufri. We had ridden in rain yesterday as well, so the fog cover appearing on the road to Kufri was a welcome change. At Kufri we stopped for tea while waiting for the guys to catch up. I came to know that Manish doesn't drink tea, but as he finds out at Kufri why tea is such a darling. Considering delicate taste buds I was working on I ordered lemon tea. With cold beating down his neck he found it quite tasty and by the time guys made their entry, Manish had gulped down two glasses already. Another one corrupted

All of us were wet and shivering in cold. The late comers decided to change cloths, while Manish and I went ahead. Have I told you that I was driving very fast today that is because I wanted to checkout Shimla before leaving. But considering the time (1:30pm) it seems 'दूर का ढोल'. And to add reason to the last nights veto, it took us so much time to reach Shimla (still far), it could have been rather difficult for us to manage it all at night given that we hardly had any traffic snarls today.

After about 40Kms of nice road with apple orchards alongside us halted for a breather and finding no one from the trailing party went ahead. At 3:20pm we had reached Shimla only to be faced by a long jam. We kept overtaking the jam for a kilometre or so, up to a point where two police men managing the jam ordered us to stop. After 15-20 minutes we decided to give them the slip and we were glad we did that, as the traffic further up was nonexistent. It turned out heavy vehicles were climbing the steep incline very slowly and that made the traffic crawl. During that time Sudi had joined us and we crossed Shimla main city.

2:00 PM: Eternal wait at Shimla
Sudi, Manish and I waited at Shimla for rest. At that point I thought we were waiting time, since all of us have to cross Shimla anyway, so why not meet them outside Shimla. However Sudi had different ideas so we waited for about half an hour. I asked him to check on the guys, during the conversation they talked about taking a shortcut and waiting for us at a petrol pump. Finally he agreed to move further, and we moved a little further from our previous location. I was not happy. “Let us get out of the town first, it will be easy for them to locate us”, I said. Meanwhile Manish had taken a break, being busy on phone that is and finally after 10 minutes later Sudi said “So shall we move then?” I was glad. As if it was supposed to happen. Those guys were waiting for us just ahead over the turn at a petrol pump.



All in all we waited for more than 30 mins and it was 2:00 pm already. I had to travel back to Dehradun so I kept my mount on the bike, waiting for them to move. In my heart I wanted to take a break at Shimla. I knew Lovey definitely would have and probably Sudi as well. But I was a little angry with yesterdays 'Veto at Rampur'. Considering that I am the new one in the group it would be inappropriate to break the group now, I thought.
Impatiently, I looked at Lovey and probably he understood and started to prepare. After waiting for 5 minus I called it quits and Lovey followed. What transpired after that was nothing less than hellish. I think in fist I drove fast by my standards, often touching 70-80KmHr. The road from Shimla to Nahan though excellent in surface quality had engineering problems over the slopes. Or may be it’s the same problem I had with traction.
We stopped near Nahan probably 4-5 Kms ahead of it to change the wet socks and removed our raincoats. I ordered Noodles and Lovey ordered Rajma Chawal. We were talking about the ‘Shimla chance’ and it turns out my hitch was correct Lovey also wanted to halt at Shimla. It means going back 60 odd Kms, but if Sudi agrees to it then why not? Unfortunately Sudi had already promised back home. So Lovey and I decided to stay at Chandigarh for the day. After 40 minutes the nomads finally arrived at scene and we wished them final goodbye for the trip.

6:30 PM: Punctured plans
One thing I often discussed was that ‘one has more chances of a flat tyre near towns on in the towns rather than on remote locations’ such as Lahaul & Spiti. Ironically I had ‘that’ puncture . As soon as we left my bike started wobbling, I looked back at Lovey and he confirmed.

Again the typical hilly business acumen was on display, most puncture shops did not want to meddle with rear tyre, for them it’s too much work. We found one puncture shop, the owner was an intelligent man, and he took pride in his work and did a through professional job of puncture repair. I paid him more than he asked for, to me he deserved it.

7:30 PM: The fall
We left the puncture shop at 7:45 pm. I felt as if I was driving on a hard suspension afterwards, it might have been my imagination. At one point I was distracted, I was losing hand eye coordination and needed an urgent break, we stopped. We must have travelled 10-15 Kms after that breather when Lovey overtook me just before a turn and I saw him vanishing past a stopped vehicle. To this day I wonder in amazement about that moment. I was nearing that turn, and moved my left hand under the helmet to adjust the problematic Bandana which had yet again managed to slip over my eyebrows.

I was fully aware that this was a stupid move, but had this uncontrollable urge to remove the bandana right now. I sensed a car trying to overtake me, probably that triggered it. Suddenly I felt as if the whole scene in front of me started to drag, just like those slow-motion scenes in moves. My bike tilted to left towards the edge of road, which was a good 10 inches above soil, amazingly the side of road joined with the ground in a smooth curve. For a moment or two I recall myself gliding over the dis-balanced bike. Quickly I moved back my left hand on handlebar.

The fall continues… “Conscious Vs Subconscious”
My mind knew that I have lost control, so it went into analyzing overdrive. There was a car parked a good 20 meters ahead, and at this speed I would smash into it. I tried pressing the rear break but my body was not balanced on the bike so I couldn't press it effectively, Now my mind suggested front breaks, my hands followed command, speed declined, for a moment I thought of turning the bike towards the road, strangely my mind had that part figured, since it already knew about the overtaking car, it suggested me to take a fall right now! While my conscious mind was in overdrive, the subconscious flashed a shocker “shit you haven't fallen in the trip so far, not now!… it is done!”. It threw some other garbage which I was not able to decipher.

The fall… “It’s done!”
Suddenly both minds left me in control of the situation, the slow mow faded. I tried leaving the bike, but that would have left my bike bumping the car ahead, I moved myself closer to bike and pressed the front disk-brake hard and engine-braked at first gear. I had greatly slowed the speed. Unable to ride the road, the thick rear tyre jumped to edge of the road. The bike fell slowly towards the left, my left foot was still on the gear paddle between the bike and ground, the right foot was now reaching the break, but now it was of no use, we skidded over 2 meters before coming to halt. The parked car was feet or two ahead.

The fall … Recovering
I quickly got to my feet. I felt as if everything came back to real life speed, the car went past me, and more and I saw single trail of red light probably Lovey. I paused myself. Few seconds have passed but still no pain? I waited for the “the pain” fortunately it did not happen. I had a minor bruise on the knee and slight pain probably because it bumped on the ground first.

Nerves were circulating blood in their full capacity, I felt the rush then shaking a little, I pulled up my bike. Thankfully there was no harm done, except for the bent foot guard. Within a few moments I was ready, thinking Lovey might have gone too far, which he did . When I pressed the second gear, it didn't slot in well. I had to press it hard to get it working; I needed to see my probiking showroom soon . But everything else was fine; Lovey taunted me by saying “आपका भी अभीषॆक हो ही गया” . Next up we halted at Chandigarh late at 10pm.

All good things come to an end, we had so much to learn and enjoy during that trip that it is difficult to remember everything, so if I have missed something please keep it for our next meet, guys! Believe me we _will_ have time to spare .

Closing
Despite being a careful driver I had learned from mistake about the "importance of tyre pressure". The rear tyre was at 46psi (after puncture just before my fall) was 12 more than recommended causing the rolling effect which I mistook for ‘hard suspension’. Similarly the front tyre was at 32psi which it should have been around 28 that explains loss of traction earlier in the trip. Saddle bags change the center of gravity of a low bike like Avenger towards rear making it a bit unstable on hills, stuff it with only lightweight baggage if you can. Fortunately the best thing of the whole trip was that we came back without any repair bills neither of flesh nor of any hardware


Stats: Distance covered – 250 Kms | Time taken 15 Hrs | 6 Stops | Refuelling 400Rs

Thanks for reading & have a save ride.

Lovely set of pics and nicely penned log. It was long but trust me, went through every word of it and enjoyed too.
If you could upload few more pics of Spiti and Chandrataal.

Thanks for reading . I have posted a lot of pics already but will post more soon.

More Pics Uploaded

I have uploaded lots of pics, and probably all that I can share with you.

Lahaul & Spiti Extra pics - Windows Live

Its a link to slide show hope you have a good net connection to view it, oh please do view it in fullscreen mode.

And a request please do vote for me if you like the entry.

Thanks.

Hello Sir,

Finally get to read your trip. Great writing Sir and excellnt photographs.

Sir kabhi kabhi hame bhi le jaya karo

Good writing, although I must admit I did not read the whole thing.
Nice pics too.