Soooooooooo cautious. he he he he

Outstanding pix AMan..!! amazing shots...

Finally I stumble upon the Last/Lost chapter of Mumbai/Pune/LEH G2G

Nice pics Aman, didnt heard a word from u after u called me wen I was at the wedding, after tht everyone I called didnt knw where u were.

So how does it feel to do some parts solo?

Though I do not really remember "Butter smooth roads" at Zojila, but your mud-slush-puddle photo reminded me of that horror that now we have re-dubbed "Gozilla" Pass.

Noticing the dates, I reckon even you did not make it to Baralach La.

Some of your photos are really good. I like the Z35. If the option exists, change your colour space from sRGB to AdobeRGB.

Thanks Rachit....!

hahaha... solo's were good... infact solo's were the best part of the ride!
but as i've said before, wont recommend the Nubra - Agam - Shayok - Pangong Tso route solo! (the log for tht is up next, too many pic to clean, thts y taking time)

Yes sir, following your thread, aware of the re-dubbed version! The 'butter smooth roads' came after crossing Zozila.

Didnt wanted to go back the same route at all, but then couldnt take chances as return date was fixed, so had to skip B-la.

Thanks for appreciating the pics. Sadly there is no such option :-(

Some really good panos there Aman!
Keep it coming...

Apologies for the delay....

Day 8: Diskit - Agam - Shayok - Durbuk - Tangste - Pangong Tso - Tangste - Changla - Karu - Leh

So as planned, I left alone around 6am from Diskit, towards Pangong Tso, via Agam. I recall seeing the sign-board the last day, which said "Agam-24kms / Leh-92kms". My thought was that i'll ride till Agam, confirm the route by the locals there, and if recommended will carry on ahead, or else, come back 24kms, and catch-up Vishwas/Rudra who would be on their way towards Leh via K-la.

The road to Agam started with a descend, the road looked rarely visited as there were stones anywhere and everywhere over the road. Then came a straight long stretch with desert on both sides, incline, straight long stretch again, no hint of civilization or human existence.









Was happy to read "Agam 0km" on the stone, and all I found was one big house below, with no one in sight. Moved 100mts ahead, over a small brigde and the way goes left and right. On the left it says "Ladakh Utsav 4kms", right says nothing! I'm not sure which one to take, so with a sad face I take a U-turn, reach that house again and hear honking. Even before looking who it was, I get my bike in the middle of the raod, so that the vehicle cant escape.

Its a jeep carrying locals, I ask the driver if this is a route that would take me to Tangste, he says yes, take the left from the bridge, but further ahead the road is under construction for 15-20kms, after that its all tar. I say excellent!

I take a left, 50mts ahead I find another house, with a Maruti 800 under a shed. I start honking like crazy till dad comes out of the house, mom from the kitchen window, grandmom n kid from the 1st floor window! I shout and inquire about the roads ahead, same reply and I zoom. Brake. Road vanished.

It felt irritating initially, but then after 5kms or so this was "the road" for me! Time passes slowly on such roads, riding between 10-20km/hr. I rode, n rode, was feeling hot, wanted to remove my inner clothing, but then even stopping there felt like a task. There was nothing around, just mountains surrounding me, and I was so happy to sight a road-roller!

Then came a bridge across which I could see white bunkers, assumed them to be BRO's (Border Road Organisation). The bridge had a pole accross it with a red flag. Got down from the bike, dragged it and myself from under the flag, onto the other side, and some civilization!

The bridge, i was coming from the other side, where u can see a blue tent.




The bunkers...


..from inside


They were surprised to see me, asked me how many more were coming behind, I replied I'm the only idiot. They invited me inside their bunker, warm water, we chatted about life, roads, etc, then they offered breakfast, I couldnt resist, puri and achar!

(...will continue rest tomorrow, pakka)

Super sexy images Aman! And yes PLEASE continue, I love your captures - even more so with your cool edits

Aman, I knew that you were crazy but looking at the photographs and roads (or lack there of) now I am reassured.

(...continuing Day 8)

While I was having my food inside, one BRO guy took away my bike for a spin. I thought to myself: "be it! when you can make roads for us without asking us, you can sure take my bike without asking me!" They even had a dog family living with them, puppies playing around, satellite tv was installed, 3-4 beds in one bunker.

He said there is still 7-8kms of under-contruction road left ahead, after that its all tar. Happy to hear that, I started, some 100mts ahead, little uphill, slight curve, path was all sand. The rear tyre got stuck, I revved hard, the bike could now balance perfectly without a stand! Got down, clicked, went back for help. They were getting ready for their daily shift, with a truck, labourers with their tools in the back. The supervisor asked me to wait inside the truck. I sat with all gears on, thinking we would be leaving for the rescue in 3-5mins. It took them some 15-20mins to get fully loaded with all the supplies, I was getting worried as I had left the keys in the bike, but thinking "who? would take it where?" relieved me.





inside the truck view.... its speedo ended at 30km/hr! My bike was stuck just after that curve you see at the end.


I was out with a push, the truck following me at almost the same speed. Now there were paths of small stones, medium stones, big stones, and boulders! There was a incline over the boulders, where again I couldn't push my bike up as the rear wheel was getting stuck somewhere. The truck saw me struggling, honked, translating to "wait, we are coming to help you". Two men jumped from the truck, pushed me over, and I was good to go again! I had no fear as I knew they were following me for sure till the tar road comes.

And tar came!

Heaven vs. Hell


Rode rode rode. Even a signborad gave me hope, thinking humans atleast had visited this world to plant it.



Durbuk, the town where the two routes meet. Some civilization. Rode further ahead till Tangste (11am), stop for permit check. The security saw me coming form the "unusual" side, asked me:
Sec: Coming from Agam?
Me: Yes.
Sec: Road bana hai?
Me: Thoda hai.
Sec: Aur kitne hain?
Me: Bas mein.

Now these pune guys had already visited Pangong Tso couple of days back. I was on Inder's permit, and Inder's name already there in the entry register. I was showing hurry so that he doesn't recall this name or that page. Another 30kms to go till Pangong, and off I went.



(...will be continuing soon, office work time!)

Re the bike standing without the stand pic. OMG F***ing awesome!!! You are one crazy SOB!!! At first I admired your guts to do this solo and wondered how you did it. Now I have some vague notion of how difficult it must have been. Respect to you!!

excellent narration aman..!! lovely pix..!!
am sick of this offices :P

Road till Pangong Tso was good. I was enjoying, but wondered why was I the only one riding this way? Have the tourists already reached the lake? Are they stuck at ChangLa? Will I be able to go back?

With these thoughts in mind, I kept riding and it was getting boring for me. I was feeling sleepy, restless, hungry, etc. The very first view of the lake (a small blue patch between mountains) got me back to life!

Reached the lake around 1pm, no tourists! As per my plan, I was late, because I wanted to cross ChangLa before 2-3pm so as to avoid any bad weather. Parked at the shore, got down, clicked for 10-15mins, and I was on my way back! Few route and lake pics before I head to ChangLa:









First view of the lake... (looked blue-er than this)
















Exiting the lake...



Now I was back on the same route towards Tangste, and after some 10kms or so, I see oncoming tourist cabs! By the time I reached the check point, there was a huge jam for the permit check. So now I knew that I would be crossing ChangLa without any oncoming or following traffic! Which later did not turn out to be good while descending from ChangLa!









Tangste below...









ChangLa was killing! As soon as I started the climb, my head started getting heavy, and body weak. By the time I reached the top, I was half-dead. Now that I had reached the top, didnt wanted to miss capturing the place. I remembered what Vishwas had said: "When on top, do everything in slow-motion, or you'll run out of breath". I'm not sure if I was following his advice, or I was not able to do anything in normal-motion, but things were happening slowly with what was left of me!

Everything was a task, getting off the bike, opening the zipper to take out the cam, walking around for pics. Saw army guys sitting inside a camp, gestured them for water, and they signalled me to come inside. Landed on their chair, was served warm water, and their share of dry-fruits. They advised me to leave asap, or else i'll run out of breath! Another 2kms down, and i'll be fine. So be it. I left in a slow-mo jiffy!

The climb to ChangLa starts....


Spotted! A Himalayan Marmot!









After some 2-2.5kms, I saw the road blocked in front of me as the snow had loosened its way down on the road. There were two blockages, within a gap of 5mts. The first one had snow till the edge of the road, 2nd one had some space left, bike could be managed. By the way, there was valley on the other side.

I knew no help was coming soon, as tourists were busy enjoying at the lake, and nobody could have informed BRO. Going back to ChangLa was an option, which I wanted to resist. So while I was thinking of how to clear this barrier, a 3rd snow-slide happened right in front of my eyes at the next curve! I was loving it! This was my chance to become 'the news', instead of 'reading the news'! I crossed the first two slides by foot to have a look at the newest addition to my misery. It didnt touch the edge, was doable.

Back to 1st, I frantically started shoving away the snow with my boots, so as to create a path, as wide as my tyre. Obviously, oxygen did its escape act, and now I was on my knees, shoving away with my gloves. Rest. Back to kicking. Initial idea was to drag the bike on 1st gear, me off it. But then after some pros and cons, I decided to ride the normal way. At 3km/hr I cleared the 1st barrier! 2nd was on 5km/hr, 3rd on 6km/hr!

This pic is from the other side, after crossing the 3rd slide....


My only fear now was the snow sliding over me while I was riding down. Wanted to rush down, out of snow-sight. Another 2-3kms, two tourists cabs overtook me. Another 1km, they were stalled because of a massive snow-slide, which in my dreams I couldn't have managed to cross alone. BRO was already there, making path. 5mins wait, I crossed it, informed the amry officer there about the slides I witnessed. Moral duty. Four-wheelers could easily cross them anyways.

And then I never stopped. The mountain passes were never ending, I could see the other mountain from far, paths visible. Then Karu came, I was in no mood to stop. Head was heavy, just wanted to crash in the bed. Skipped the Hemis Monastary. Roads were awesome. Entered Leh around 4-4:30pm, thinking Vishwas and Rudra would have reached by now from Diskit. Was heading to the new hotel they shifted to, when I heard somebody call out my name. It was Inder, having lunch with the Mumbai folks. He had the room keys, I wondered where would Vishwas be then?!?

Reached hotel, Rudra was waiting at the reception, Vishwas's bike had got towed. They couldnt reach Inder on call for the keys. We didnt like the room Inder had choosen. Couples of hotel's hunted in the same street, and I recommended my ex-hotel. Saw. Liked. Shifted. Freshened. Lunch alone. As they had already had it while waiting for Inder.

As I was munching, I thought of what I did today. I was happy to be alive and alone. I had completed the journey before anyone, Pune was still left with local sight-seeing, Mumbai had much to do.

Day 9: Rest day!

> I left in a slow-mo jiffy!

ROFL! Lovely to see your side of the story. Like I said, I had assumed life would have been difficult for you doing these stretches solo, but only now do I realize how difficult! Kudos! Lovely clicks as usual! Keep logging!

wowww, really interesting pics, and your photography also nice