@Justme - Good to see you back with another trip log. The last being the Rajasthan one if I remember clearly. Yet to go through the trip log but I'm sure it would have been one hell of an experience for both of you.

Btw I was there in Leh exactly at the same time as yours. Would have loved to meet you.

Yup MG, the last was mainly Rajasthan and yes it would have been great to catch up with you.

Day 5: Return of the grand master :-)

Again woke up decently early (~6 AM) but after a pretty good sleep. Same was the case with others and all of us were feeling good. Sharad enquired about health and was happy to note that tone of my voice itself conveyed that I was back. Yesterday, when we were down in dumps, Sharad / Vasu had checked with the driver if he could take us and bike to leh and even we were thinking that if our health does not improve, we would take the flight back from Leh and book the bike in some transport. However, that all seemed things of past as both me and MJ were feeling great and wanted to continue the ride.

Had a liesurly breakfast (thing learned from Sharad/Vasu/Arvind as earlier we used to take late breakfast / lunch / dinner to accomodate number of kms to be done, but after understanding the importance of food at such altitutes and also the importance of enjoying every bit of the journey). We paid the driver and his assistant some money for all the help which was accepted after lot of effort. When I had started the journey, lot of people asked me why did I not wait to join a Group before starting, I always felt that I am a firm believer in human kindness, more so in such circumstances and places which are still not corrupted by greed, competition, money making etc and I was proved right with all the help that I got from people who helped me during water crossings, people like Sharad / Vasu / Arvind who could have felt that me getting ill would interupt their plans, but never felt that way, the sumo driver who helped us, the army personnel who took great care of everyone who come to them. I was humbled but happy that their are still many such people.

Anyways, we got on with the ride, the plan being to reach wherever we can without stressing us too much as others in the Group had lots of time in their hands and did not want to strech themselves. After what they had done for us, there was no question that we would abide by their decision. However, both me and MJ were wishing that they choose to reach Leh.







The only challenge was Taglangla pass which was at 17582 ft. It was decided that we would not spend too much time there and would descend after taking some pics. Before that were the Moore plains which to our dissapointment, we felt that they looked better in pics than real life.





Lunch Time


From Pang after ~90 Km, the road is like heaven and we reached leh by ~3 PM. We stayed at a Hotel called Buddha Gardens which was recommended by the same driver as the bicycle gang was also scheduled to stay there from next day. Plus, everyone wanted to stay away from the market (this place is ~8 Km before Leh). It was nice place. Me & MJ took a double room while others took a room for 3 persons. The rooms were nice and cosy (Rs 500 per night). Others had plans to occupy the room for longer period while for us it was only for two days.









With us again being in network range, called home to inform of our well being. Had a leisurly bath and even more leisurly dinner over discussion on various things. These guys were lot of fun. Others wanted to have a free day tomorrow to just cater to bike servicing and permits (they were planning to visit almost all areas closeby) while for us it was just Khardungla that we wanted to do the next day and ofcourse bike servicing (I wanted RVM, solution to dripping oil plus my front shocker was leaking from one side).

Had a contended sleep on achieving Mission Leh.


Day 6:

There was no need nor intention to wake up early since we could get permit only after 10 AM. But we were up and ready and had plans to leave by 8 which was then revised to 9 once we again had a leisurly breakfast over chit chat. I am sure had we stayed with the Group for another few days, we would have returned after gaining atleast 5 Kgs, it was so much fun having food with the group that we would not realise how much we have overeaten. Plus, now we were happy to note that we don't have to do our daily chores in open and were therefore more amenable to overeating.

For others wanting to travel with their wives, please get them mentally prepared that they would have to be doing things in open (ofcourse under the shield of rocks, ditches, even tarpaulin. Everyone is required to drink lots of water and its so cold that everyone needs to go at regular intervals. Women generally drink less when travelling to avoid such situations, but that is neither possible nor advisable in this route. However, with such less traffic, it is not a big deal once you realise that everyone is doing it the same way. Even others do not perceive it the way they would do if they see a women doing it in plains, but there it is how it is and the psychology is different. We did meet a few women / girls on the way who had issues with even eating at such places (ofcourse travelling in SUVs, I don't have anything against SUVs, I own one), I shudder to think how they would manage other things. It is only at Sarchu where you can have a choice to get a luxury accomodation but still they will have to manage on the way and for people travelling on bike, even more since we are more open to elements.

Anyways, after a hearty breakfast, we proceeded towards leh (still 8 Km to go), enquired regarding RVM but no one had the one for TB. Went to DC's office and easily got the permit, anyways wanted it only for Khardungla. We were today not carrying the saddle bag (and with it the extra petrol) and realised mid way that the petrol level is low, adding to tension of puncture was tension of fuel level). However, knew that distance is not much plus it is still to get to reserve (but was unsure if that is working or not). The ride upto South XXXXX (I told you I have poor memory) is fine with good roads but after that it was all bad.. We had not realised that it would be so cold (since leh was quite warm) and were underprepared - I was not even wearing my jeans (gave it for washing), was just wearing sports lowers (which atleast were for cold weather). The pass like all others had extremely poor roads for last 15-20 Km. Atlast we reached there and took a few photographs. There is a army medical camp there too which we referred to a fellow tourer who was some eye infection (we had very good experience with army medical camps and wanted others to also benefit from the same).



















The return was uneventful, we reached leh by ~3 PM. Had lunch in a Punjabi dhaba / restuarant in leh market, the restaurant was not great but the food was and it felt nice to have punjabi food after days of eating maggie and the like. MJ wanted to buy a new jeans as she was to leave for Mumbai from Delhi and not return to Udaipur. After lot of search (Leh market is too expensive for the poor quality material that they sell), it was achieved. While we were coming out of the shop, met others in the Group who were leaving for bike servicing (they had taken appointment for 5 PM). I also decided to tag along (dropped MJ to hotel and came back). We all got our bikes serviced. Was really disspointed with the shady servicing done by the guy. He could not get the shocker opened and told me to continue like that till Delhi. He could not get the foot rest fully straigthened (it bended when we fell earlier), ofcourse did not have RVM nor could get the dripping issue resolved while he tried. The best that he did was to oil the chain (which anyways I did almost daily) and clean the spark plug (which was also not required since my bike started in first kick throughout the trip, except one in Sarchu when it required 2 kicks but I would blame that on my weakness). Anyways. There was a crack in mine & Sharad's bike which we got welded from a shop nearby - that guy did good work.

Leh Market


We all went back (except Arvind who was meeting some friend) and again had leisurly dinner (I know too many leisurely food breaks but they would end soon as next day we were to leave for Delhi).

loved reading every bit of the travelogue... thanks for sharing your experiences...

waiting for rest of the log...

Before I pen down our return journey (via Srinagar route), I would like to raise a toast for the people who inspired me during this journey:

Top of the list is the guy who I saw riding to Khardungla on a Splendour. While most of the bike forums are full of debates as to which is the best bike for Leh / otherwise and numerous fights for supremacy between bullets / pulsars / ZMAs / R15 / others, there was this guy who must have decided that he wants to go to the highest motorable road, saw which bike he had, and decided to do it. He may not be the fastest or most comfortable but to me he is the true tourer, one who decides to go on a tour and manages with what he possesses. Hats off mate.

Sharad: At 59 years young, this guy would put to shame most of the younger men (me included) with his zest for life and adventure. Years after his last tour on a bike, here was this guy who decided that he should be getting Leh'd on bike and then living his dream. He is a avid trekker and does it every year.

Vasu: At 54 years young, he was the younger partner but equally well prepared and passionate. He had in his younger days did a chennai - delhi on a bicycle. Just thinking of it, is inspiring.

Both Sharad and Vasu bought new bikes (TB twinsparks) especially for this trip plus whole lots of touring goodies like saddle bags, riding gear etc and were extremely well prepared and aware. But more than that, they were helpful, open, fun and full of life.

Army personnel: Be it desolate places in ladakh, army hospital at pang or inhospitable circumstances at srinagar valley, I found them to be extremely helpful despite odds against them.

Most people suggest starting diamox 2-3 days before hitting high atitudes like at Pang ie :in Manali or Delhi itself.
Do a trial in plains itself to see if you are allergic.


But all is well that ends well.....waiting for rest of TL

Day 7: To second coldest inhabited place in the world

Was informed the day before that there is some unrest / curfew in parts of Srinagar. However, since we wanted to go back a different route plus were thinking of visiting Wagah border, we decided to take our chances. The mechanic who serviced our bikes day before also was of the view that it may not be much of a concern since Srinagar is a large city and unrest may be in few areas. Hence decided to take Srinagar route. What we really faced will come later.

Again, after leisurely breakfast and chit chat, could leave the hotel by around 9 AM (first revised from 7 to 8 and then from 8 to 9). We were to miss riding with the Group and tension of tyre puncture etc was again back. The road is great for few kms and we got excited thinking that it may be such all the way. However, it was not to be. though not as bad or difficult at the Manali-Leh, road till after Zozilla pass / Sonamarg is still having number of challenges. With lot of road construction work also going on, many of the places we were just riding on big rocks.

We stopped for our second breakfast (first was at Leh) and were surprised to note that the person managing the place was Marastrian - my wife was happy to be able to chat with someone in marathi (she is Maharastrian). He comes to the place for work during this period and after sept goes to Goa to work there. There are many people like him in this region. Even the help in hotel at Leh had come from Bihar for the tourist period.
We got petrol filled at Kargil (last fill was at Leh the day before). I was looking for a shop where I could buy RVM as I am not very comfortable in riding in mountains without one moreso now since traffic is more on this route and it is important to know when some vehicle wants to overtake us, but it was in vain.

The road after that is filled with army checkpost, even one board stating that we may be under observation of enemy. Most of the time on this road, I followed an army vehicle who finally got irritated and let us pass (though I was not looking to overtake him). We were continuously riding since we had left Leh and were tired hence decided to take a halt at Drass which we reached ~6:30 PM (which was the right thing to do which we realised next day as crossing Zozilla pass after daylight is certainly not advisable, more so on a bike).

We did not see the Drass memorial, which we had crossed on the way since it looked closed. Just after that we were stopped by an army vehicle - we were stopped because the driver was Maharastrian and seeing Mumbai number plate just wanted to have a chat :-). Again there was chit chat in marathi between my wife and him and I guess both were happy.

When we were in Leh, we got an impression that people in Drass are cheats who tend to fleece the tourists. The term used by guy was "Drass main chai ka daam bhi time ke saath badalta hai" - that depending on the time of the day and cold, people at drass charge different rates for tea. But our experience at Drass was complete opposite of it.

While searching for a hotel, we first went to see Hotel city view or something, which was quite horrible and shady. However, while parking the bike to see the hotel, we saw the board of J&K tourism hotel which was just next to it. Got a room there for Rs 400 which was quite nice. Plus there were lot of other tourists there, including families. The geyser in the room was not working but the caretaker was more than happy to provide hot water in buckets (initially asked us Rs 20 per bucket, but when he told that in other rooms the geyser works, he agreed to provide hot water free of cost since geyser not working was not our fault).

Since we had taken halt at respectable time, we thought to checking out the market before dinner. We went for a walk. We bought some fruits on the way and were informed that fruits / vegetables are bought from Srinagar. We went into a bakery to buy some water and tried the plain cake there. It was one of the freshest, softest cake that we had ever eaten and was such reasonably price (more than reasonably priced actually).

We had our dinner at a small eatery opposite to the hotel. The food was also yummy. Ate rajma which are called dal there. So when they dal chawal, they mean rajma - chawal. After good food and overall a very pleasant experience at Drass, we went off to sleep.

Good going Any phone number of the J&K tourism banglow?

Actually, you wouldn't require phone number. This place is located bang in the middle of market. The market is hardly 500 mtr. long so no chance of missing it.

Phone number is required for booking, not for getting direction!

Don't have the number, but if you reach there by 5-6 PM, guess getting a room should not be that difficult. But then, can't say how it would be in Aug - Sep 2010 (peak of tourist season).