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Geez mate - is it like you are riding at extended high speeds most of the time?? If not, the plug is obviously going to do more harm than good!! Use it ONLY if your engine is running REALLY hot most of the time!
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just b'coz it was mentioned and even recommended by honda manual for extended high speed riding.
nething i cud do with d acceleration tune-up ?
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Erm... that can't be called a heat sink!Originally posted by nox2505 View PostOne Inch? how u managed that
? the spark plug gap should be 6-9 mm. The rusty colour on white heat sink indicate good running condition of bike.
But why did you go for this plug dude?Originally posted by honda_vings View Posttoday i got a call frm HMSI , dey told me dat my requested spark plug has been delivered to d dealer i can take it.
so i took it cpr9ea-9 for Rs. 125 + Rs.1(tax) but after fitting dis plug the acceleration in low, mid as well as top range has reduced but d feel of d bike has improved a lot (i.e d torque)
But all-in-all m nt happy
Is its gap needs to be adjusted from its default gap as mentned on its packet(honda dealers said no)
or carburettor needs to b retuned ?
or sumthin else
or its normal
but let me tell u it is much much better den earlier bosch spark plug(Rs. 67) as far as bike's ride feel is concerned but practically bike is not accelerating dat good.
The stock plug is one grade hotter, isn't it?
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today i got a call frm HMSI , dey told me dat my requested spark plug has been delivered to d dealer i can take it.
so i took it cpr9ea-9 for Rs. 125 + Rs.1(tax) but after fitting dis plug the acceleration in low, mid as well as top range has reduced but d feel of d bike has improved a lot (i.e d torque)
But all-in-all m nt happy
Is its gap needs to be adjusted from its default gap as mentned on its packet(honda dealers said no)
or carburettor needs to b retuned ?
or sumthin else
or its normal
but let me tell u it is much much better den earlier bosch spark plug(Rs. 67) as far as bike's ride feel is concerned but practically bike is not accelerating dat good.
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First tighten the sparkplug gently by rotating by hand as much as possible then apply enough torque to not to damage the thread. (say- tightening by regular spanner without long pipe/rod or something) The thing is u should compress the washer on spark plug a bit.Originally posted by honda_vings View Postopps sorry
i made it 1mm nt 1 inch(recommended range was 0.8-0.9 mm)
den wid a guess i undo it
after dat bike created foul smell of petrol
hence i did nt even start my bik since den
i was about 2 buy a spark plug as dis 1 was quite old although not don much kilometers(merely 3000 kms) and is 1.5 year old + i was tempted 2 try my hands on gpower plug.
nw cn u also tell me how many turns shud i giv to d gpower spark plug to fit perfectly(neither 2 loose nor 2 tight) , i can't take it 2 a A.S.S as it is nt starting even so i prefer to do it myself instead of local mechanics .
also is fitting spark plug a simple job or needs to be skilled and experienced to do it
thnx in advance for replying
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opps sorry
i made it 1mm nt 1 inch(recommended range was 0.8-0.9 mm)
den wid a guess i undo it
after dat bike created foul smell of petrol
hence i did nt even start my bik since den
i was about 2 buy a spark plug as dis 1 was quite old although not don much kilometers(merely 3000 kms) and is 1.5 year old + i was tempted 2 try my hands on gpower plug.
nw cn u also tell me how many turns shud i giv to d gpower spark plug to fit perfectly(neither 2 loose nor 2 tight) , i can't take it 2 a A.S.S as it is nt starting even so i prefer to do it myself instead of local mechanics .
also is fitting spark plug a simple job or needs to be skilled and experienced to do it
thnx in advance for replying
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Man... you increased the gap and then set it back? That too ONE INCH ???? You're not supposed to mess with the gap even a little! That's what you've done. Now go get a new plugOriginally posted by honda_vings View Postincreased gap to 1 inche den back 2 where it was(can't measure just by guessing)
what have i done?
@Mandeep Singh,
I remember reading about "spitfire cables" or something... I think they do exactly the job of handling that amount of current
Don't know much about this though.
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Originally posted by honda_vings View Postholy shit
today i took out my spark plug and tried to inspect it
it was completely dry and with rusty kind of deposition which got removed as i dragged my nails through dem
increased gap to 1 inche den back 2 where it was(can't measure just by guessing)
den refitted it back
nw my bike is missing lik hell
rpm is dropping den rising den dropping den rising
after more troubleshooting , d bike just taes 1k rpm for a second den engine dies
what have i done?
One Inch? how u managed that
? the spark plug gap should be 6-9 mm. The rusty colour on white heat sink indicate good running condition of bike.
Replace the sparkplug immediately.
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holy shit
today i took out my spark plug and tried to inspect it
it was completely dry and with rusty kind of deposition which got removed as i dragged my nails through dem
increased gap to 1 inche den back 2 where it was(can't measure just by guessing)
den refitted it back
nw my bike is missing lik hell
rpm is dropping den rising den dropping den rising
after more troubleshooting , d bike just taes 1k rpm for a second den engine dies
what have i done?
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Spark Plug Info debate.
hello Brothers.. sorry to start the debate once agin.. but going thru the posts, i found that every1 gave their bit of experience & knowledge about Performance Plugs..& on redaing the posts i was tempted to poke my nose..
almost all aspects were discussed/debated, but one critical point was missing.. that is what makes a Plug a PERFORMANCE PLUG,
the reason to choose typical construction/metallurgy in plugs is firtsly the ability to gain & reject the heat build known as HEAT RANGE, which has been debated properly,
but also the ability of the plug to discharge a fattter or A More INTENSE SPARK
It works this way: For An IC Spark Ignition Engine (petrol/Gas) to ignite the mixture it needs a properly timed spark which should be.
1) Of Correct Intensity
2) Of Correct duration
The Intensity At which the PERFORMANCE PLUGS give spark is Far More than Normal Plugs ALL DUE TO ITS SUPERIOR METALLURGY/CONSTRUCTION.
the metals used/plus the technology put in offers More intense spark for same duration/input voltage.
in short it works.
but to get the BEST results, its not just the Plug that is the Hero.. it has to be Coupled with a proper HIGH INTENSITY IGNITION SYSTEM.
with proper HT coils/cables to handle that amount of Current.
i hope i havent offended any1.. was just trying to highlight a point.. lets stop running around in circles.. a product is superior or not has many aspects to it.. no single benchmark can settle that..
lets keep head banging..
Cheers Brothers!!!
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hmmm... true.Originally posted by Raccoon View Postno real technical evidence exists to prove a clear superiority for fancier plugs
Originally posted by prafultripathy View PostThe tennis match
is not for iridium's giving better performance, but for running the engine comparatively cleaner and thus justifying the extra cost one pays for them+1Originally posted by sankar View Postit might keep the chamber cleaner in relation to a normal plugged bike, in theory
PS: i got NGK on my P180UG3
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ohhh my god
wht a discussion
Well to start with
a speed petrol is 30 or 40 paise/litre costlier den normal unleaded petrol
and i can easily feel d difference in d 2 in performance , mileage and smoothness.
Now an iridium spark plug for more den 6 times d price of d stock nickel plug wud definitely make a difference .
However i hvn't tried the iridium as its not available for my unicorn , bt tomorow m gonna buy d gpower n will tell u if expensive sparks worth thier costs or not ?
till den keep rocking(fighting!!!lols) guys(juz kidding)
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That said, I think you have explained the myth of plugs keeping combustion chambers cleaner in a more lucid way.Originally posted by sankar View PostOn my Karizma.
Yes, as I said in short, Iridium could be superior in that respect in a particular application. But as I also said before, in my own experience, none of my nickel plugs have ever needed cleaning. So my hypothesis is that, if circumstances are near optimal, then nickel or Iridium may not make much difference in this respect!Ordinary plugs cleans itself off under normal conditions if the heat range of the plug is correct. And it doesn't self clean in very rich jetting/oil burning situations where it will just foul up. Iridium plugs have a self cleaning mechanism built into it, it's between the electrode mount and the ceramic surrounding. You can see it in the plug, it's noticeable.
Yes thats quite right. Some manufacturers even use platinum plugs as OEM. And when they do it, obviously considerable thought has gone into it. But the problem arises when owners of vehicles with normal plugs think that Iridium/platinum will do magic for them. I'v read of cases where use of platinum plugs (in place of normal nickel ones) actually caused engine damage in cars.OT: In a Volvo V6 FWD car, NGK Iridiums are the std plugs at the bank of cylinders close to the firewall. Reason access to the plug there is very difficult
They put Iridium in there coz it doesn't need attention, it cleans itself, a regular plug doesn't do. I got this info back when i was searching for Iridium info before i bought the plug.
Last edited by Raccoon; 03-16-2009, 06:09 PM.
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On my Karizma.Originally posted by Raccoon View PostSankar, on which bike did you notice this change in performance (besides the 2 Bulls)? Btw, ordinary plugs can also be self cleaning... not just the Iridium! Of course, it could be that the Iridium is better at it. And because of this, the plug can be clean, but that does not mean the rest of the combustion chamber is any cleaner (or dirtier). But I guess this has not been understood by few others here.
Ordinary plugs cleans itself off under normal conditions if the heat range of the plug is correct. And it doesn't self clean in very rich jetting/oil burning situations where it will just foul up. Iridium plugs have a self cleaning mechanism built into it, it's between the electrode mount and the ceramic surrounding. You can see it in the plug, it's noticeable.
OT: In a Volvo V6 FWD car, NGK Iridiums are the std plugs at the bank of cylinders close to the firewall. Reason access to the plug there is very difficultThe center electrode of Iridium IX spark plugs has an extra anti-fouling mechanism. A thermo edge between the center electrode and the insulator nose provides a gap for a secondary micro-discharge to jump and initiate a self-cleaning process.
They put Iridium in there coz it doesn't need attention, it cleans itself, a regular plug doesn't do. I got this info back when i was searching for Iridium info before i bought the plug.
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Sankar, on which bike did you notice this change in performance (besides the 2 Bulls)? Btw, ordinary plugs can also be self cleaning... not just the Iridium! Of course, it could be that the Iridium is better at it. And because of this, the plug can be clean, but that does not mean the rest of the combustion chamber is any cleaner (or dirtier). But I guess this has not been understood by few others here.
Rossiter, you said it! I have stated my experience. It was more my intention to raise doubts and quesions regarding the fancier plugs rather than prove anybody wrong/right. This was aided by the fact that no real technical evidence exists to prove a clear superiority for fancier plugs. Most people have noticed barely noticible differences between them... and it can be argued that the price for this is not justified. It could be that on certain bikes, in varying conditions, you may experience a more noticible gain (esp. when the environment in the bike is less than optimal, like you said).
Praful, just because somebody spent extra money on something, it dosent necessarily make it a better product.
As one more illustration, let us assume the combustion chamber to be a barrel of gun-powder. You can ignite it with a spark from an ordinary sparking gas/stove lighter or a cigarette lighter or a big burning torch. Whatever you use, the gun powder will explode. Will the bigger flaming torch cause a cleaner combustion? No!! Same is with the plugs - only a spark is needed. Just because you use a big flaming, expensive torch does not necessarily make you any superior.
What is more important is the timing of the spark, its position and yes, some minimum intensity. It is possible that plugs with fancier electrodes last longer (even this is in doubt... as mentioned in earlier posts) as they are more resilient, or that the difference in resistance makes some small difference depending on the ignition system of a particular vehicle, but thats about it.
Anyway, as Rossiter said, its upto readers to decide for themselves after going thru the posts.
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