Hello everyone, sorry for the late reply, all this blamed to fog, power problems meant that I didn’t get time to write about today’s meet
Skipping all the previous part, I am coming straight to our theory class. We learned about sprung weight/ unsprung weight, Counter steering and finally cornering.

*Sprung and Unsprung weight*

-In simple terms anything below the shockers is unsprung weight and above it is sprung weight.

-A good motorcycle should ideally have unsprung weight as less as possible for this alloys help to and extent, the other way is the switch to a lower profile.

-Lighter the unsprung weight, better the holding of the bike.

-Ideally the US/S ratio is to be maintained. And sprung wieght should be more..

-Rebound damping is the amount of damp which is ideally required by a bike, it means that the after the shockers move in due to undulation, slower they rebound the better(or was it opposite ) and the rebound damping adjustment is not available in our Indian bikes..

Rebound damping is availaible in some of the superbieks and is measured by the number of clicks,sunny or ken chacha would be able to throw some light on this point..
What it actualy deals with is that there is a small jet size thing inside the shocker through which the gas od the shocker passes the no of clicks in the +ve direction would increase the hole and make the compression soft and vica-versa..

-Ideally the pre load adjustment (the step adjustment in our dual shock
bikes) is to determine the amount of hardness of the spring which in turn helps in better

-It is very important to have equal preload in both the shockers in a dual shock bikes as it affects the handling.

*Dual shock v/s Mono shock setup*

-Mono shock better than dual as it has lesser travel, it reduces the
unsprung weight.

-Due the placement of the mono shock it lies in nearer to the Centre of
Gravity of the bike which in turn is more stable and also the Center of
Rotation.

-Due to heavy weight and unevenness of the production of dual shocks,
the variation of the handling in different bike will be different. Even
if coming for same production batch, Even in the same bike both the rear
shocks will be not be having equivalent characteristics.
This is the main reason why when you ride two same kind'aa bikes in the showroom you feel the difference that one has got more vibrations or the other has got a better suspension..no two bikes can be same..
even though they are from the same make,same year,same dealer..etc etc..

*Counter Steering*

-Counter steering is about the fact that we every time naturally do it.
Its about shifting little weight in opposite direction to which one has
to turn the bike.
This kind'aa tech,and skill is most ly used by the people who ride the motocross bikes because of variable factros and the track they ride upon..also they concentrate their wight mostly on the position where the centre of gravity and the centre of rotation is..

*Rake and Trail*

-Rake angle is the angle made between the horizontal road and the angle
made by the fork and handle T.

-While Trail is the distance between contact patch and the imaginary
line coming from the rake angle and meeting the road.

-While cruisers have longer trial length, bikes which have sportier
stance have lesser trial length.

-Bikes having longer trail length have better straight line stability
and not that easy to flick while bikes having shorter trail length is
are more flick able but are relatively less stable in straight
line(debatable)

-Eg Pulsar classic is very flick able but had poor handling in high
speeds (>80kmph), classic fans don’t kill me for this. Karizma stands
at a stabler position as having trail length of 3inch.

- +ve trail is when the contact patch is after the rake angle, while –ve
trail is the one which the contact patch is ahead of the rake angle(Eg
while coming down on a speed braker)

*Handling corner*

-Ideally the slow in fast out is the universal rule and is better to
stick to this rule(unless you want to land in to hospital)

-While negotiating a corner, you are supposed to start of the farthest
side of the lane touch the corner and then accelerate out in your lane,
late or short entry will mean you land out faster into oncoming traffic

- Ideally braking should be your last resort, counter steering should be
first one. Nothing lies in between them.

*Genreal riding tips:*

-Don’t look onto the obstacle rather look for the way out. Eye fixation
on the trouble spot will land you on the trouble.

-Nothing happens suddenly, every event gives you ample time to see
understand and act accordingly.

- I follow the 15 sec scan rule, while riding on highways, in every 15
sec do a complete scan right from left side to left RVM to center to
Right RVM to Right side and then to the speedo & tacho. Scan them and
make changes in mind accordingly. Do not go into a fixation mode. Don’t
fix your eyes on the road.

- Ride out and enjoy the ride everytime and everyday, remember everyday
you are novice for the bike, you may learn from the mistakes committed
by you, the bike doesn’t and neither forgives.

- Every new ride is new experience in itself, it just that we don’t come
to know generally.

-While commuting make sure that before going out you review in the whole
route in your mind, so that while riding your mind is not busy thinking
about the route, rather focusing coming out of the obstacles.

Remember you can be rossi on the track and not on the road, It kills you
and others also.