praveenkm

Day 31 - Tashigang - Guwahati.. Back to india...

April08 - EveryTrail

Will be riding to apna desh today. Woke up early and had maggie what else. After settling the bills and filling up fuel i had just about 150 Rupees! The start was scary as the road construction work was going one with some mud roads in store. Negotiate them slowly and its going to be winding mountain ride all the way to the border for around 180 KMs. Since these mountains are in lower range compared to previous days the greenery around was much more greener as in dark green. Take my time and stop at places where i can get the valley view. This stretch is mainly business section so there are nothing but trucks on the road. They are polite enough to stop and give way even to a bike with just half a touch at the horn. But they were intruding with the pix session. I have to hurry up taking pix else the truck will pass and will have to over take again!

This time had many rough patches of road as mainly trucks ply. On the way just checked out the Shangrila temple from outside. The Monks were doing all the basic works like gardening and cleaning. Could here the Lama prayers as well. Did not find a place to have food. Just carried on slowly catching eyefull of the mountains. The path literally cut out of vertically rocks. Use my roots horn generously on the blind turns. Made it to Samdrup Jongkhar by 2 pm. Made the last entry before the town and they did check my baggage. My immigration permit was kept as i am exiting any way. It got way too hot and switched to Mesh jacket and boy O boy the road till border was a night mare. As a joke Dantek had put a brand new board wishing Happy journey and the next 15 kms till the gate were a royal pain. May be they put the board too soon.

Get to the border and the city not as flanking as Pheuntsholing. Before i knew i was at the Exit gate. Some pix in and some more outside from Indian soil. Just when i was about to leave a Bhutanese guard told me to make more entry. But my immigration permit was held back at the previous check post. He was pretty insisting. Any way i had copies of the permit and went into the office. A friendly officer just chatted. Every one does say that i must have had a good experience with people as people of Bhutan are very nice. And to every person who says that, i sadistically tell about my phone mugging. May by most people of Bhutan are good but i seem to have caught up with a rare outlaw. Bid byes. I changed the phone's sim to Indian. The guard really wanted my Bhutan sim. But i politely refused saying that i need it. Wondering why should he want the sim so bad when he can get one for 20 rupees! and started my ride. And the change in the environment was not so pretty. Not really happy to get back into the country. The sense of insecurity gripped me and then i realised that the 150 rupees i had was of Bhutan currency and now i literally had no money! Have to get myself to Guwahati and encash. Did not want to stop any where for money in the unknown place.

Could see the ruggedness of roads the people, saw a dog going under a truck right in front of my eyes, A cycle guy got so distracted at see me, my bike that he fell off!! Good that he was a few feet away else i might have been blamed Not long before i see a convoy of vehicles going towards Bhutan. Bhutan vehicles are army escorted from Raigang to Samdrup jongkhar. There ever present army. Man are the well built, each sporting a rifle. Plenty of army trucks making rounds. Dared not to take pictures. Was really expecting to be checked every now and then but that did not happen.

Then on roads become too good and pretty wide ones. After some time came to know there is a 4 lane project going on. Towns every 10 kms and finally made it to outskirts or Guwahati by 5pm and i get checked by the cops. Show the passport and tell em about my travel and they let me go. Get inside the city and find that my fone does not show any network! Changed to another sim and still the same. Thought may be the Bhutanese sim did something to the phone! Searched for PCOs and called my friend Pinaki for directions for his house and i get there after some time.

Now again just like in Bhutan, it hits me, What next? no plan at all. Arunachal is what i know so Tavang it is. Will try to get permit, get bike serviced and fix fone tomm. But Guwahati is quite a big city than i thought and and i know things will be slow.

The view from the Druk hotel where i stayed...


This kid was staring at me all the time hehe..


The prayer wheel in the square and the white Druk hotel in the back ground...


Thats the road i came from yesterday...


Very welcoming roads...



Thats all the money i was left with...


Nice views along the way...


The lost Shangrila!!



Monks going about their daily chores...



The winding roads... really wonder how the engineers decide the path...


At the La, forgot the name of the La...


The height there...


Actually it was much higher 3 KMs from there...


Then its up and down gradually going down...


Now who made the road through the farm?


The last good valley view...



Road made by cutting the rocks...


Road on the steep mountains...



At a view point...


And Hindu temple in Bhutan...



These workers have these barriers to protect their homes from occasional falling rocks from the mountain opposite to the road.


The indian kids this time. Boy were they happy to see their pic, the literally ran around in joy after that...


The road work by Dantek...


The last Bhutanese checkpost before border...


The Assam planes...



I am india now.. looking at the border gate i exited..


The last Bhutanese cop!!



Gifted with these roads in between, well what do you know, this is a part of 4 lane project going on there...


The long bridge crossing the river into Guwahati...


The Kerala cop who checked my panniers thinking if there was something bad in them...

__________________

The truth is out there. Get out of ur couch!!!
'My Escapades - The Blog'

praveenkm

The permit offices of the NE states are closed for Good friday, saturday and sunday..

So instead of wasting time heading towards Meghalay Cherapunjee..

The fone saga solved. Prepaid of outside states are not allowed in NE States it seems. So got myself a post paid here...

__________________

The truth is out there. Get out of ur couch!!!
'My Escapades - The Blog'

Anup Abraham

nice to read them man....gr8 going....
enjoyed reading them

Regards,

__________________
Anup Abraham

ravi@17bhp

Awesome stuff Praveen. Enjoying each and every pic and write-up. Keep up brother. Ride on.

Jonak

Again Awesome Posts Praveen.
I am glued to this thread. Ride on.
Best wishes.

__________________

archistar

fantastic praveen, you are the man and enjoying life and biking in the proper way... kudos bro...

any plans to head north?
and how you liked bhubaneswar?

__________________


www.archi-star.net
www.theindianexpedition.com

http://www.flickr.com/photos/archistar

praveenkm

Glad you guys are liking it Guys

@archister: If things are fine will surely be heading north. Bhuvaneshwar is another nice sprawling city

To Continue...

Day 32 - April 9 - In Guwahati

The plan was to get the permits and get the bike serviced. But before that get the fone's network going. On visiting Airtell showroom came to know that Prepaid sims of other states does not work in NE!! Both my sims were prepaid. WT^$&*#&^$ Now to get a post paid sim in my name was a big hassle and my friend's parents obliged to get me one in their name. This process took the entire morning session.

Reached ArunachalBhavan by 2.30 pm thinking have time for getting the permit. But not so soon. The permit office hourse close by 2PM and the clerk cooly says come on monday. The next three days are holidays due to GoodFriday, Saturday and Sunday. The permit process it self will take 2 days. Man this is sick waste of time. Immediatly change plan. Instead of Arunachal first, thought of heading to Meghalaya first where permit is not required. Then think of getting permit at Shillong for south states or what? Ride out Tripura and come back to Guwahati? still not sure. But Shillong-Cherrapunji it is.

Was too late to get the bike serviced. Got oil changed and chain lubed. Hope that should. Found out that i was running with less air pressure and that explains how rear tire is getting eatan up so soon. Thats a very naive oversight. The cone set problem still persists. Just not time to get it fixed, the HH mech not too in enthu to open the cone and fix it. If only the Calcutta HHSC guys did not try to fix someting that was fine! Have to live with bike handling screwed for some more time.

My sim got activated by evening and i am in network again. But cant make any calls or plans as i got busy clearing the back log of log updates.

Guwahati... just like any other big city... Some how not comfortable taking out the cam on the streets...


BTW these are the Vertical travels of Bhutan leg..

Thimpu - paro - Takshakt - Thimpu


Thimpu to Bumtang-Jakar, The peaks are the DachuLa and PeleLa


And The peak here is the UktonLa


Jakar to Mangor, the peaks are the passes.


By mistake stopped the gps track instead of another button. Difficult to handle the fone with the gloves on. So the next track had to start from the top of TrumshamLa.


Mangore to Luhentse and half way back when the app crashed..


Mangor to Tashigang, with the peak showing KoriLa


Tashigang to Samdrup Jongkhar passing a few minor passes...


Samdrup Jongkhar to Guwahati...

__________________

The truth is out there. Get out of ur couch!!!
'My Escapades - The Blog'

praveenkm

GPS Trail
April10 - EveryTrail

Got up with just one direction of Shillong. Still not sure of whats the plan as no homework has been done. Notice that the rear tire has gone bald!! And i am heading to the wettest place on earth!! Any way have to live with it now and asked Santosh to place an order for the tire to be delivered in Guwahati so that i can change when i get there next. Again lack of planning, else the tire could have been there by now.

Any way with not much riding today start of late after breakfast by 10.30. Tough ride across the busy Guwahati streets. Boy was the traffic chaotic! After like half an hour catch the right turn towards Shillong, which had board welcoming to Meghalay. Was very inappropriate place for a pic and carried on. Soon the road opened up and road itself was awesome. And yup its twisties time. Smooth wide twisties. But the fun spoiled by the numerous trucks plying. Unintentional shoe scrapes all the way. Pretty tight S curves. Can see a truck break down every now and then. Have to be careful cos not sure if the next curve has a broken down truck and will have scurry to get around it. After couple of surprises slow down. The ride is only getting bettor. Lot more mountain hugging ride. And get near Shillong by 2 pm. Did not expect Meghalay to be predominantly Central Asian christian people. The city seems pretty developed but hardly any place to stop. Did not feel comfortable to stop and take pix with the stares of people around. They looked angry or its just me getting paranoid. Did not feel like staying there and wanted to head out to Cherrapunjee, and Cherrapunjee holiday resort in particular if i manage to find it. Then may i can go on a trek to check out the living root bridge if possible. People not really in mood to give me directions. I enquire the army personnel whom i come across for directions.

Getting out of Shillong see a left road with Shillong view point. Turn the bike there and ride for some time in the narrow winding road and gets to the top plane above and it was great to look at the hills around. The view point is supposed to be inside an airforce base and the guard says he will do through checking if i want to go in and the view is not very different from what can be seen some distance back. Well not really in mood for taking out the luggage, i turn back. Stop where i could get good views. It was bright sunny and getting cold as well. Since i am on the way to Cherrapunjee, thought of pre-emptively wearing the rain gear and be ready to the downpour. Now the ride from Shillong to Cherapunjee was very very interesting. Every thing seemed strange. the people the roads the kinda quarrying they made by the road. Looked more like mud harvesting that stone! Strange out crops of rocks near quarry sites. Nearing cherrapunjee get the first view of Divan syn or some thing valley. It was very strange compared to the valley i have seen before. Looked like somebody had made a big V trench in flat land! the top of the valley was pretty flat on either side. Now i get to ride on top of the valley to the right. This is again very strange and interesting ride. Going on twisties on pretty much the same level without climb ups or downs! It got windy very windy and chilly cold as well. But bright sunny all the way. Looks like not rain today. Dunno if the pictures express the strangeness but the ride was very good. Meghalaya is very beautiful. But there is a cement factory on the way which spoils quite some views and lot of quarrying along the road for it.

Get to Cherapunjee to find it a sleepy town with very less activity. Got only one word strange place. The resort i was looking for if 15 kms further at Laitkynsew village. The names of places around also very strange. Villages named Mavshomok etc. Looks like all the way from Shillong to Cherrapunjee lots of places to visit. Falls, view points, Ramkrishna mission etc. Pretty confused as to where to go. But Holiday resort and root bridges, direct me towards the resort. Which is now a narrow road to the right from the cherrapunjee town. Its actually climb down now from the top of the valley to the middle of it. All the while hoardings promoting the resort. Looks like a family picnic place and i thought it was adventurous. If the narrow road through the forest is not enough, there is some road construction going on and layer of rocks making the bike wobble. And i thought it would be a pleasant ride till the resort. Well i wanted adventure! After the offroading and climbing down the edge of the valley for some time roads improve and get to the resort with the parking lot overlooking the valley. Its all bone dry and i am like a silly guy present myself at the reception in rain gear. Its seems not raining much these days and rains not expected for 2 more weeks. Hmm... so does not rain like mad all year! Thats news to me!! And as expected due to the holidays all the 6 rooms are booked. Only tents for 500 rs is available. Well it was already 4 pm. so thought can as well try it. While having food, Mr Dennis, the resort owner who tells me to check out the Mowrang view point before the sun fades.

Take my bike and pass through the quite villages. Thought a village, unlike the ones on our side, the houses were pretty modern and big with all the amenities. All quite pretty quite and yes got the word strange! Ride through couple of villages when the road ended at a parking lot kinda place above a school. See the steps going down and asked couple of ladies who confirm it. Well that should be quick i thought. Getting down passed by pretty houses. Again all quite. Just the chuckling of kids concentrated at some places. These people leading a really simple and peaceful life. But the houses had all modern amenities, like electricity TV etc. The steps seem to go on and on and finally on to a wide path going to the forest! A local says its the right path and finally see the view point. Thought it may not be so good compared to Bhutan views. But wrong. This place had its own charm. With the sun setting behind the opposite ridge and the valley below with the snaking river. It was all great. There was this rural family taking a break from their hike. A preview of a pic of them cheered them up. With sun down its long walk back to the bike.

Lot more kids out now. Small naughty boys! Thought like any other place waving at them would make them happy but boy are they naughty, they kids threw stone around me though not directly at me. That was fun for them. Again i say strange kids! A lil walk later. Few small girls stopped they play and looked at me with curiosity with my riding gear on. Thought the small girls would not throw stones so waved at them. Couple of them made faces! Hehe again i say strange kids! Any way get back to the bike and ride slowly through the villages and lot more kids playing out on the road. With strange stares saw a cover of some thing fall lil ahead of me! Man these people are strange!

Get back to the resort by sun down. Dive into my tent for some rest. Again strange network connectivity. Only BSNL works not Airtel. Man again having trouble with fone network. phew. with nothing much to do had food and watched a few army families enjoy their time around the bon fire. Mr. Dennis arranges for a guide to the trek tomm with the Double Decker root bridge being the main attraction. Head back to the tent and typing this.

Road towards Shillong...


Some beautiful twisties..


Whats Meghalaya without Megha!






Uoami Lake outside Shillong


Shillong outskirts..


Taking a detour towards Shillong view point..




Looked like lot of clouds towards Cherrapunjee


Sohra is the local name for Cherrapunjee


Strange quarrying






Awesome Dowansing Syium valley...


Amazing ride along the ridge of the valley...




Coal factory worker...


A view point on the ridge...


Places to check out around Cherrapunjee...




43m error...


Sleepy town of Cherrapunjee...


Cement factory spoiling the view around..


Strange sleepy villages around Cherrapunjee..


Approaching the resort...



Now the dreaded rock and roll on the stones!!


Road improves near the resort...


The cherrapunjee holiday resort..


No room so staying in that tent...


Its quite comfy as well...


Some villages i cross to check out the Mowrang view point.



Get down the steps through the village...



With no body around i am wonder if i am going the right direction...


Catching the sunset at the awesome view point...


A village family enjoy the same vista..





Bonfire at the resort in the evening...


Village with lights...

__________________

The truth is out there. Get out of ur couch!!!
'My Escapades - The Blog'

praveenkm

GPS Trail...
April11 - EveryTrail

It was a nice night in the tent. Hearing the clouds thunder and the light shower at the night. But is must be awesome to be in the tent when the thunder storms pour in full flow. woke up at 6 am and got myself ready for the trek. Kept all my things at the Resort owner's office and Ride down past the Moshomok village and took a left instead of heading towards Cherrapunjee. There my guide for the day Wessley Majaw was waiting for me. Parked the bike at a house he suggested. I had the map for the trek and prolly could have managed on my own. But i had read in forums about people loosing way. So Thought would go with the guide any way and also i can get pictures of me taken .

Wessely a very polite and humble 18 year old who has the dreams of the world and responsibility of 8 younger siblings. Passionate about his village, language. It was nice talk he had in the 5 hours of trek. Coming back we started of with a small walk on the road and then it was climbing down the steps all the way to the bottem of the valley. Half of it were of cement passing through the hilly villages, the peole of which have only the steps to connect with the outer world physically. Quite some development happening here. After more than half hour of climbing down steps then its turn of crud uneven stone steps which again descended to eternity. I never thought one could get tired of climbing down stairs. And here i was with hurting legs just with the climb down. And every step down have to go up later as well. Wonder how am i going to get up all the way back. Finally we reached the bottom of the valley. Have to cross a couple of big streams. No need to get wet there are couple of Wire bridges to cross. Prolly i would have been shit scared to walk on them but the with Wesley around who was sure of the bridge, went along and took some pix and posed as well. Wesley says in rainy season the water level comes almos to the bridge and its very scary walking with gushing water below. Guess all the scares of the place are mainly for rainy season when the path is slippery adding to the adventure. But right now is sunny and dry and trek is normal but for normal tiring. After two swaying wire bridges there it is the living root bridge. A smaller one across a big stream. Its fascinating how these locals plan ahead for these bridges which takes 10 to 15 years to engineer. couple of pix and we have to move ahead a lil and there it is the Double Decker root bridge the highlight of the trek. So soon i thought and i still not yet panting! Well i again i guess all this is reasonably ok when things are dry. None the less the this huge double Decker is very impressing and imposing. Has pretty clear stream going under. Could have taken a bath there but for couple of local women washing cloths there. Any way take lot of pix and go a little ahead in the trek path cross another wire bridge and look at the river path. Water a bit too deep for a non swimmer. So will be heading back now. Cross the root bridge and stop for a cool drink at a 4 room hotel in middle of the forest with a modest charge of 200. There were this couple from canada staying there from 3 weeks! Wonder how people from across the seas find these remote places. Geting back to the base of the valley already tired and no have the daunting climb of thousands of steps. Will take a couple of hours to go up and its nothing but steps and steps. Take rest very few steps and Wesley says i am going with medium speed and too slow either. We do the lazy climb, Wesley translates phrases in different dialects of the Khassi language. Huffing and puffing i reach the top, bid bye to Wesley and ride my bike back to the resort and took a detour to a view point before that. It was nice ride thourgh the forest opening up on the valley ridge. There was this long walk way along the ridge and no soul around. Was really tired and got back tot he resort.

With lot of questions as to now what ordered for lunch and caught a power nap on the table! was told i could use the tent for some more time to rest before i leave. After lunch i dive into the tent and nap away. Woke up only by 2.30 quite tired. Strangely i feel the calf muscles hurting more! The muscles coming into play while climbing down! with less energy i collect myself and its almost 3.30 when i start. A pretty slow ride and have to negotiate the road construction patch as well. Out at Cherra and its already 4.30 Have to get to shillong before night fall. Thought of checking out couple of local attractions before i leave. Not sure when i will come back here. First i went towards Mawsmai cave. Finding my way in the streets of Cherrapunjee villages, get to the entrance and ask an old lady in the shop to watch over my bike. Its supposed to be a quick 10 mis in the 150 meter cave. With my tank bag in hand i enter and its quite narrow and wet had to squeeze through some places. There was this big family with to petrified kids and they were taking eternity to console the kids and take them ahead. I was running out of day light and quit the walk and went out. Hopped on my bike and went towards Nokhakali falls. After a couple of deviations from the main Cherrapunjee town. The road opens up to a fantastic path with the light green shallow hills on either side and pretty undulating. By now it was getting pretty windy and temperature dropping. Again quite a strange place and wanted to spend some time along the way but cant. Reach the view point and it was neatly barrierd enough not to give full view of the falls. A few steps after paying the toll, there is very dramatic thin falls falling for quite a height as if from a big tap! Here the valley wall is vertical through a gap of which the falls well falls!

Got back on the saddle for a scurrying ride to Shillong. Very little daylight left. It was pretty cold and all my gear was tucked deep in the luggage. Opening it means loosing more time. Put on the easy assisible rain jacket and some cotton in the ears, started riding and again the ride along the valley ridge was amazing in the evening lights. Just that is was more uncomfortable now. Leave the valley just as the night breaks and my HID's on to full glory. Reached the city and after some asking around for Lyithumkrah found the Yalana hotel and pretty happy with the parking went in for a room hope for a crash. But no rooms and was suggested a hotel nearby Prakash Hotel Quite dingy. Was looking forward for a comfy room but thought of trying out some where else. Over fone asked for room at another hotel on reaching there in the busiest street of Shillong GS road there is not private parking and have to park on the busy street!. With no choice rode back to Prakash hotel, but not before taking a wrong turn and wander away from the city climbing down a dark road with no exits and no people, no lights etc. Now have to do some planning tomm..

Again strangely i did not find Cherrapunjee photogenic or i was not able to take bettors pictures. Though the environment and ambiance around look very very dramatic on the eye when ever i frame a picture, it felt nothing special to look at. Was more and more inspired by the places around and same time frustrated not being able to capture the true image around. May be its just me but would really suggest visiting Cherrapunjee and all i can say is its very different, strange and awesome compared to other places one has traveled.

Me in the tent in the morning...


Din know there was a towel above till i took this pic..


This is my guide Wesley Manjav...


So we climb down now...



More and more steps...






The first of the wire bridge...


Weslay on the bridge..


Water under the bridge...


The Next bridge...


More water under the foot...


People use this for their daily business...


Me posing..


The first of the root bridge...


Now me on it...


The gaps are closed with stones and mud...


Now at the famous Double Decker root bridge...


Me on both the bridges..


From the other side...


A lil more ahead to look at the point of swim...



Din really feel like swimming there, being non swimmer...



some macro on the way back...


The village houses...


Ihe tough never ending climb up the valley....


Yeah i am all drained and just about carrying myself up...


A pretty church at the end of the climb...


At the view point detour parking lot...


Valley from across the Moshomok village...




Way to Eco park which i did not visit due to lack of time...


The Mawsmai cave...






Some monoliths welcoming to the cave


The beautiful grassy hills along the way to Nokhakali falls.


Me at the falls...


The fantastic Nokhakali falls...


Some cloud play along the way...

__________________

The truth is out there. Get out of ur couch!!!
'My Escapades - The Blog'

SKSy_Biker

The falls looks amaazing! Just like angel falls!