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After all the Dc conversion procedures scattered out in XBHP, i came upon the idea to start a new thread that encompasses all the ideas from many talented geeks
out there...to a more suitable user friendly thread.
I will demonstrate a method which when successfully modded will enable automatic Dc conversion and in the nick of time "all mods can be brought to company specs!". This was the main aim for me and the unstable headlight, which had varied light output at low RPM, is a thing of the past.
%%%Knowledge in basic electronic soldering and know-how is appreciated%%%
Tools required:
*Common board
*Soldering iron and solder
*6A4 power diodes(4) and 2 amp diodes(4)
*3300uF and 1000uF 25V capacitor(1)
*SPST switch
*Toggle switch--3 contacts
*Lots of heavy duty wire
*Any color LED with 330ohm resistor
*12V 5 amp Relay
*Insulation tape(good quality)
The principle(Working)
The system works by mainly tapping the yellow wire from the Stock RR(Rectifier-Regulator) unit to the BCU(through stock wiring) providing a toggle switch in between, to switch from regular connection to the modified wiring. The basic working can easily be studied from my detailed diagram posted. The current flow is shown in the diagram as arrows. On the event of toggling the switch to Modified section, the yellow wire(carrying regulated AC) is bridge rectified and supplied to battery. While the wire to BCU is supplied a DC voltage through the help of a relay.
Now the relay....which is an electromagnetic switch....needs DC voltage for excitation, so we provide the AC from stock rectifier+rectify it and supply to relay coil. Now the relay gets activated and the Dc supply gets routed to the wire to BCU(yellow).
A direct DC switch in form of SPST switch is also provided to enable direct supply from battery to the AC system in vehicle even in event of ENGINE OFF condition(be careful the battery can drain down pretty quick in this mode).
So, in general we take the regulated AC from the RR unit and use it for charging the battery along with the stock charging by the Stock RR unit(to provide more juice to battery). While Dc from battery is fed to the AC Wiring core of the bike(i.e to the BCU yellow wire).
* Now the relay used here is for auto switching to DC system in the starting of the bike. The BCU in Pulsar UGIII's won't allow the electric starter to switch to DC, thus the relay will make that possible!
Verification
I have tried this setup for more than a month....not at all a problem till now. Now using Philips 55/60W halogen. Very good illumination indeed and flicker free performance.
Tips
#Assemble the rectifier for battery charging with a heat sink for heat removal.
#Check for charger working by measuring battery terminals with a mutimeter in ENGINE ON and HEADLIGHT ON condition for charging to be proper at 4000rpm.(13.5-14.5 V).
# Use household gauge wire for Battery connections from rectifier unit.
# Mount the toggle switch up front so that we can toggle them at ease.
Mounted pictures will be added soon.
out there...to a more suitable user friendly thread.I will demonstrate a method which when successfully modded will enable automatic Dc conversion and in the nick of time "all mods can be brought to company specs!". This was the main aim for me and the unstable headlight, which had varied light output at low RPM, is a thing of the past.
%%%Knowledge in basic electronic soldering and know-how is appreciated%%%
Tools required:
*Common board
*Soldering iron and solder
*6A4 power diodes(4) and 2 amp diodes(4)
*3300uF and 1000uF 25V capacitor(1)
*SPST switch
*Toggle switch--3 contacts
*Lots of heavy duty wire
*Any color LED with 330ohm resistor
*12V 5 amp Relay
*Insulation tape(good quality
)The principle(Working)
The system works by mainly tapping the yellow wire from the Stock RR(Rectifier-Regulator) unit to the BCU(through stock wiring) providing a toggle switch in between, to switch from regular connection to the modified wiring. The basic working can easily be studied from my detailed diagram posted. The current flow is shown in the diagram as arrows. On the event of toggling the switch to Modified section, the yellow wire(carrying regulated AC) is bridge rectified and supplied to battery. While the wire to BCU is supplied a DC voltage through the help of a relay.
Now the relay....which is an electromagnetic switch....needs DC voltage for excitation, so we provide the AC from stock rectifier+rectify it and supply to relay coil. Now the relay gets activated and the Dc supply gets routed to the wire to BCU(yellow).
A direct DC switch in form of SPST switch is also provided to enable direct supply from battery to the AC system in vehicle even in event of ENGINE OFF condition(be careful the battery can drain down pretty quick in this mode).
So, in general we take the regulated AC from the RR unit and use it for charging the battery along with the stock charging by the Stock RR unit(to provide more juice to battery). While Dc from battery is fed to the AC Wiring core of the bike(i.e to the BCU yellow wire).
* Now the relay used here is for auto switching to DC system in the starting of the bike. The BCU in Pulsar UGIII's won't allow the electric starter to switch to DC, thus the relay will make that possible!
Verification
I have tried this setup for more than a month....not at all a problem till now. Now using Philips 55/60W halogen. Very good illumination indeed and flicker free performance.
Tips
#Assemble the rectifier for battery charging with a heat sink for heat removal.
#Check for charger working by measuring battery terminals with a mutimeter in ENGINE ON and HEADLIGHT ON condition for charging to be proper at 4000rpm.(13.5-14.5 V).
# Use household gauge wire for Battery connections from rectifier unit.
# Mount the toggle switch up front so that we can toggle them at ease.
Mounted pictures will be added soon.
and the fact that it happened was due to a minor fault in the original mod published elsewhere in XBHP by Rahuldevnath. The ciruit that i have posted is rectified and the heat levels will be very low. Personally checked and have ridden for over a month.
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