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Greetings to all,
I know lot of guys were waiting for this. As we all know, the Bajaj Pulsar 200NS has been the path breaking motorcycle in its segment. Among all the sharp cues of 200NS, I feel, the cockpit has been designed most conservatively of all the other design elements.
Yet, the bang on Tachometer and the side mounted Speedometer looks really good. However I find the Yellow backlight of the 200NS to be tad boring.
Previously I had changed the backlight of my Pulsar 220 to blue and this time around I wanted something with more oomph. And with my Yellow Bumblebee, the RED was the best option.
BTW this might well be the most elaborated DIY post!
Total Cost, excluding the tools: 150/- (including solder, flux and LED)
So, before we start a few pointers:
Let’s Get Started!
Tools Required.
Step 1
Locate these allen bolts on either side of Headlamp fairing, and remove (2x2) 4 Bolts.
Step 2
Removing the allen bolts, unplug all the male/female connectors, and then put the faring in your work place and marvel at the design cues for sometime
Step 3
Locate the 2 No.s small allen bolts on either side of the wind screen and remove them.
Step 4
Once the front windscreen bolts are removed, pull the windscreen out. The lower part of the windscreen is attached to the fairing with rubber plugs, so will require some extra effort.
Step 5
Remove these 4 allen bolts, next to the console and remove the plastic fairing.
Step 6
This is how the console will look after removing the fairing.
Step 7 / 8
Locate these 3 nuts underneath the console and unscrew them with spanner. It might tricky due to limited space.
Step 9
Get the speedometer console out of the headlamp assembly and set it aside. Remove these 5 screws with the help of Philips head screwdriver.
Step 10
Simply pull out the faceplate, plastic ring around the Tachometer and the tachometer needle. There might be some fevicol like substance holding them, just remove them with screwdriver.
Step 11
Once the face plate is removed, locate 3 screws on the console front and remove them. This will remove the main unit from the plastic case.
Step 12
Turn the unit, and locate these points on the PCB. These points are required to be de-soldered.
Step 13
This is the most critical step of all – the de-soldering. Carefully desolder the points with the help of de-soldering pump and wick. You can apply some flux, but be careful not to overheat the points. Carefully remove the LCD along with the plastic panel from the main PCB.
Step 14
This is how the bare PCB will look. Cover the original SMD LEDs with black insulation tape.
Step 15
Stick the LED strips of your preferred colour. Connect them to a 12V power and check if everything is working fine. Even if the strips and wire are a bit protruding, it won’t have any issues.
Step 16
Temporarily put the faceplate back, and check if the backlight is looking fine. Incase if it’s not readjust the LED strips.
Step 17
This is how finally the PCB will look before putting everything back in place. I have used a rolling paper to evenly spread the LED beam pattern. One can use butter paper in place, just that the decreased distance of LEDs from the LCD should not light up as dots.
Step 18
Solder the positive and negative terminals of the LED to the indicated points on PCB.
Step 19
Put everything back and enjoy the cockpit view!
One important note: With this mod, the LED's won't glow during self check.
I know lot of guys were waiting for this. As we all know, the Bajaj Pulsar 200NS has been the path breaking motorcycle in its segment. Among all the sharp cues of 200NS, I feel, the cockpit has been designed most conservatively of all the other design elements.
Yet, the bang on Tachometer and the side mounted Speedometer looks really good. However I find the Yellow backlight of the 200NS to be tad boring.
Previously I had changed the backlight of my Pulsar 220 to blue and this time around I wanted something with more oomph. And with my Yellow Bumblebee, the RED was the best option.
BTW this might well be the most elaborated DIY post!
Total Cost, excluding the tools: 150/- (including solder, flux and LED)
So, before we start a few pointers:
- In terms of electronic modifications, this is one belongs to advance stage.
- In mod is completely reversible however official it will void the warranty of the bike.
- The procedure mentioned here is quiet simple, and anybody with hand at soldering /de-soldering can do it, provided he or she has oodles of patience.
- However any mistake or over heating the soldering point can render the whole unit non-working.
Let’s Get Started!
Tools Required.
- Allen Key Size – 6 mm
- Screw Driver with Philips head and Spanner Size - 8/9
- Soldering Iron with Fine Tip, De-soldering Wick and Pump, Solder and Flux, Wires and LED strip, Insulation Tape, Tweezers, wire and wire stripper.
Step 1
Locate these allen bolts on either side of Headlamp fairing, and remove (2x2) 4 Bolts.
Step 2
Removing the allen bolts, unplug all the male/female connectors, and then put the faring in your work place and marvel at the design cues for sometime
Step 3
Locate the 2 No.s small allen bolts on either side of the wind screen and remove them.
Step 4
Once the front windscreen bolts are removed, pull the windscreen out. The lower part of the windscreen is attached to the fairing with rubber plugs, so will require some extra effort.
Step 5
Remove these 4 allen bolts, next to the console and remove the plastic fairing.
Step 6
This is how the console will look after removing the fairing.
Step 7 / 8
Locate these 3 nuts underneath the console and unscrew them with spanner. It might tricky due to limited space.
and
Step 9
Get the speedometer console out of the headlamp assembly and set it aside. Remove these 5 screws with the help of Philips head screwdriver.
Step 10
Simply pull out the faceplate, plastic ring around the Tachometer and the tachometer needle. There might be some fevicol like substance holding them, just remove them with screwdriver.
Step 11
Once the face plate is removed, locate 3 screws on the console front and remove them. This will remove the main unit from the plastic case.
Step 12
Turn the unit, and locate these points on the PCB. These points are required to be de-soldered.
Step 13
This is the most critical step of all – the de-soldering. Carefully desolder the points with the help of de-soldering pump and wick. You can apply some flux, but be careful not to overheat the points. Carefully remove the LCD along with the plastic panel from the main PCB.
Step 14
This is how the bare PCB will look. Cover the original SMD LEDs with black insulation tape.
Step 15
Stick the LED strips of your preferred colour. Connect them to a 12V power and check if everything is working fine. Even if the strips and wire are a bit protruding, it won’t have any issues.
Step 16
Temporarily put the faceplate back, and check if the backlight is looking fine. Incase if it’s not readjust the LED strips.
Step 17
This is how finally the PCB will look before putting everything back in place. I have used a rolling paper to evenly spread the LED beam pattern. One can use butter paper in place, just that the decreased distance of LEDs from the LCD should not light up as dots.
Step 18
Solder the positive and negative terminals of the LED to the indicated points on PCB.
Step 19
Put everything back and enjoy the cockpit view!
One important note: With this mod, the LED's won't glow during self check.
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