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Before you begin, I would like to emphasize the fact that the most vital ingredient necessary for a DIY paint job is PATIENCE and just PATIENCE.Take frequent breaks please.
Vehicle:
Bajaj Pulsar 150cc
Purpose:
Minor scratches on the bike over years of usage and the bike gave a dull outlook. I decided it was time to revamp the looks.
Materials required:
1. Bosny spray cans - 400ml x 4
2. Bosny clear spray - 400ml x 2
3. ESD putty - 1 box
4. ESD primer - 1/2 litre (or) Bosny primer grey - 400ml x 4cans
5. Thinner - 1 litre
6. Putty blade - 2 nos
7. Sand paper grits - 2000 / 1500 / 1000/ 600
8. Masking tape - 3M / ABRO
9. Paint brush - 2 inch x 2
10. Bike stickers as necessary
Tools required:
1. Fuel tank removal - 12 inch ring spanner
2. Fuel cap, pet cock and fuel gauge removal - phillips/star screw driver
3. For bikes with fairing kits - as per demand
4. Shields - bike key
5. Rear grab bars - 14 inch bit and socket or ring spanner
6. Rear fenders - Phillips/star screw driver
7. Rags
8. First aid kit
9. A bucket of water
Procedure:
Removal
1. Remove the fuel tank from the bike after removing the seats and side shields. Empty the fuel out of the tank as it makes easier to handle the tank.
2. Remove the fuel cap, fuel pet cock and fuel gauge and mask or rather seal those removed areas with the masking tape.
3. Remove any additional attachments to the tank as per necessity.
Stripping and Filling
4. The most important step is to completely scrap out the existing layers for long lasting finish and quality. You could sandblast the tank which is best recommended, time saving and economical as well.
5. Use the putty and putty blade to fill the dents on the tank. Take small amounts of putty and apply it on areas of dents to patch it up. It usually dries immediately. Let it dry for about half hour.
6. The surface might appear coarse at this stage which is alright.
Sanding
7. Use the sand paper to rub the treated areas starting from 600 > 1000. You may also need to wet sand when using 600 and 1000 grit by soaking the sand paper in water for at least half hour. At the end of sanding the surface should be smooth.
Priming
8. Once the putty is done the next will be priming the surface. Mix the primer and thinner in 1:1 ratio. Usually a spray gun is used to layer the base coat for which we will need an air compressor. This becomes complicated. So there are two ways to have this done-
a. use a 2 inch paint brush to paint the surface with primer solution. The surface may have the brush imprints. And this can be sanded later using the grits we have. This is what I did.
b. get the Bosny primer grey spray can and use it
9. Once the surface is primed, let it dry for about half hour to begin the sanding process.
Sanding
10. Again, start with 600 grit to remove very coarse patches, then 1000 grit to fine tune the surface approximately.
11. Go over the surface again with primer solution in 1:1 ratio with a new paint brush and repeat step 10.
12. The trick here is to use the 2000 grit paper now to sand the surface and again wet sand the surface. When you run your finger over the surface there should not be any bumps or brush/spray marks. This stage is very very critical and requires lot of patience. Take a break if needed. I actually lost my patience at this stage.
Spraying
13. Now the fuel tank is ready to be sprayed with the color of your choice.
14. Warm up about 2 litres of water and ensure it is luke warm in the bucket. Put one of the spray can in the warm water. Occasionally keep shaking the can vigorously. Repeat this for about 5 minutes.
15. Take the can out and shake the bottle vigorously for about 5 minutes again. Please note that this is critical and ensures that the color pigments inside the can mixes well with the aerosol so that once you spray on the metal the aerosol escapes leaving the pigments behind.
16. Hold the can upright with a distance of at least 5-6inches between the tank and can. Before you actually begin the spraying on tank, practice the spray on some cardboard material. Do not use the press/release technique as this is not an air compressor. Make use of the pressure within the can.
17. Once you are confident, press and hold the nozzle tight to about 3/4 and move the can in right-left directions sideways as you hold the nozzle down. Release the nozzle only when you have completed a layer.
18. Remember, several thin layers of spray is what we need rather than 2 heavy coats of spray. Again, patience is very very essential. Take a break if necessary.
19. Allow the surface to dry for about an hour.
20. Repeat the step 17 and 18 for about 3 thin coats.
21. Allow it to dry overnight.
22. Follow the steps above to the rest of the parts like shields, chain cover, fairing etc.,
22. Check if there is over spray or bumps anywhere. If found, use the 1500 grit and 2000 grit and wet sand the surface.
Clear coat
23. Time to bring the gloss effect here. This can be bought by the usage of clear coat and a hardener on top of it. When I sprayed my bike, I did not know of this.
24. Purchase a good clear coat 250 ml and hardener 150 ml and take the fuel tank, shields, fender and fairing to a local paint shop who would spray it with clear first and then hardener.
25. Stay with the painter and have him spray 2 coats of clear and then 1 coat hardener. Once this is done leave it to dry which may take up to 3 hours.
26. Bring it back home and leave it to dry for about 2days.
Results:
Reassemble the parts in order carefully. Job well done if all is done well!
I did not have proper information when I sprayed my pulsar. Hence I used clear from Bosny itself. I used tank cover once the clear dried. So I did not have this problem of petrol oozes on it at bunks. You may do the same as well but remember to allow the first layer of clear to dry before going to the second layer.
But on my Avenger I did the clear on a paint shop and paid 300/- for labor.
The key to successful paint job is not the materials used or procedures but PATIENCE, CONSISTENCY and WILLINGNESS by TAKING BREAKS FREQUENTLY.
---DISCLAIMER---
I am a fond lover of doable DIY projects. I have take utmost care and caution in doing this with all risks vested upon me. While the outcome may vary on each bike, I strongly recommend you to completely understand your bike and then go ahead with similar DIYs. Though I would be glad to answer any of your questions. I am not responsible for any kind of outcome of such DIY.
Please take help and clarify before getting in to the job!!!
Feel free to PM for any questions!
Hope you all liked it.
Thank you for reading!!!
----------
The pictures that I could find on my phone
----------
STRIPPING
MASKING
PRIMING
SPRAYING AND CLEAR
RESULT
Important tips
1. Never start off without consolidating all materials at one place.
2. Have a time table and stick to the schedule. If you can do just sanding for one just do it and nothing else.
3. Decide if you want to do the clear coating by yourself or through a painter. It matters.
4. Sanding the surface before color is very important. Any coarse patches would show up once you spray. Ask your friend or family member to do a quality check. We are not going to show case our paint job at any exhibition.
5. 2000 grit sandpaper is very important.
6. Always wash the surface before beginning a another procedure.
7. The distance at which you hold the can away from object determines the quality of job and avoids over spray.
8. Several thin layers is what recommended for durable finish instead of 2 thick layers.
9. If you over sprayed just ignore and proceed. It can be taken once dried by wet sanding.
10. Do the paint job in a ventilated area with good sunlight. The aerosol pigments settles down on nearby objects and becomes powder. So cover the nearby objects like washing machine, another bike, wall, windows, etc., to avoid passive spraying.
11. If you intend to do the clear coat and hardener through a painter, talk to him first if he can just help with clear coat alone. Tell him you received this tank and plastics from a friend who abandoned the paint job and put the bike to scrap.
Vehicle:
Bajaj Pulsar 150cc
Purpose:
Minor scratches on the bike over years of usage and the bike gave a dull outlook. I decided it was time to revamp the looks.
Materials required:
1. Bosny spray cans - 400ml x 4
2. Bosny clear spray - 400ml x 2
3. ESD putty - 1 box
4. ESD primer - 1/2 litre (or) Bosny primer grey - 400ml x 4cans
5. Thinner - 1 litre
6. Putty blade - 2 nos
7. Sand paper grits - 2000 / 1500 / 1000/ 600
8. Masking tape - 3M / ABRO
9. Paint brush - 2 inch x 2
10. Bike stickers as necessary
Tools required:
1. Fuel tank removal - 12 inch ring spanner
2. Fuel cap, pet cock and fuel gauge removal - phillips/star screw driver
3. For bikes with fairing kits - as per demand
4. Shields - bike key
5. Rear grab bars - 14 inch bit and socket or ring spanner
6. Rear fenders - Phillips/star screw driver
7. Rags
8. First aid kit
9. A bucket of water
Procedure:
Removal
1. Remove the fuel tank from the bike after removing the seats and side shields. Empty the fuel out of the tank as it makes easier to handle the tank.
2. Remove the fuel cap, fuel pet cock and fuel gauge and mask or rather seal those removed areas with the masking tape.
3. Remove any additional attachments to the tank as per necessity.
Stripping and Filling
4. The most important step is to completely scrap out the existing layers for long lasting finish and quality. You could sandblast the tank which is best recommended, time saving and economical as well.
5. Use the putty and putty blade to fill the dents on the tank. Take small amounts of putty and apply it on areas of dents to patch it up. It usually dries immediately. Let it dry for about half hour.
6. The surface might appear coarse at this stage which is alright.
Sanding
7. Use the sand paper to rub the treated areas starting from 600 > 1000. You may also need to wet sand when using 600 and 1000 grit by soaking the sand paper in water for at least half hour. At the end of sanding the surface should be smooth.
Priming
8. Once the putty is done the next will be priming the surface. Mix the primer and thinner in 1:1 ratio. Usually a spray gun is used to layer the base coat for which we will need an air compressor. This becomes complicated. So there are two ways to have this done-
a. use a 2 inch paint brush to paint the surface with primer solution. The surface may have the brush imprints. And this can be sanded later using the grits we have. This is what I did.
b. get the Bosny primer grey spray can and use it
9. Once the surface is primed, let it dry for about half hour to begin the sanding process.
Sanding
10. Again, start with 600 grit to remove very coarse patches, then 1000 grit to fine tune the surface approximately.
11. Go over the surface again with primer solution in 1:1 ratio with a new paint brush and repeat step 10.
12. The trick here is to use the 2000 grit paper now to sand the surface and again wet sand the surface. When you run your finger over the surface there should not be any bumps or brush/spray marks. This stage is very very critical and requires lot of patience. Take a break if needed. I actually lost my patience at this stage.
Spraying
13. Now the fuel tank is ready to be sprayed with the color of your choice.
14. Warm up about 2 litres of water and ensure it is luke warm in the bucket. Put one of the spray can in the warm water. Occasionally keep shaking the can vigorously. Repeat this for about 5 minutes.
15. Take the can out and shake the bottle vigorously for about 5 minutes again. Please note that this is critical and ensures that the color pigments inside the can mixes well with the aerosol so that once you spray on the metal the aerosol escapes leaving the pigments behind.
16. Hold the can upright with a distance of at least 5-6inches between the tank and can. Before you actually begin the spraying on tank, practice the spray on some cardboard material. Do not use the press/release technique as this is not an air compressor. Make use of the pressure within the can.
17. Once you are confident, press and hold the nozzle tight to about 3/4 and move the can in right-left directions sideways as you hold the nozzle down. Release the nozzle only when you have completed a layer.
18. Remember, several thin layers of spray is what we need rather than 2 heavy coats of spray. Again, patience is very very essential. Take a break if necessary.
19. Allow the surface to dry for about an hour.
20. Repeat the step 17 and 18 for about 3 thin coats.
21. Allow it to dry overnight.
22. Follow the steps above to the rest of the parts like shields, chain cover, fairing etc.,
22. Check if there is over spray or bumps anywhere. If found, use the 1500 grit and 2000 grit and wet sand the surface.
Clear coat
23. Time to bring the gloss effect here. This can be bought by the usage of clear coat and a hardener on top of it. When I sprayed my bike, I did not know of this.
24. Purchase a good clear coat 250 ml and hardener 150 ml and take the fuel tank, shields, fender and fairing to a local paint shop who would spray it with clear first and then hardener.
25. Stay with the painter and have him spray 2 coats of clear and then 1 coat hardener. Once this is done leave it to dry which may take up to 3 hours.
26. Bring it back home and leave it to dry for about 2days.
Results:
Reassemble the parts in order carefully. Job well done if all is done well!
I did not have proper information when I sprayed my pulsar. Hence I used clear from Bosny itself. I used tank cover once the clear dried. So I did not have this problem of petrol oozes on it at bunks. You may do the same as well but remember to allow the first layer of clear to dry before going to the second layer.
But on my Avenger I did the clear on a paint shop and paid 300/- for labor.
The key to successful paint job is not the materials used or procedures but PATIENCE, CONSISTENCY and WILLINGNESS by TAKING BREAKS FREQUENTLY.
---DISCLAIMER---
I am a fond lover of doable DIY projects. I have take utmost care and caution in doing this with all risks vested upon me. While the outcome may vary on each bike, I strongly recommend you to completely understand your bike and then go ahead with similar DIYs. Though I would be glad to answer any of your questions. I am not responsible for any kind of outcome of such DIY.
Please take help and clarify before getting in to the job!!!
Feel free to PM for any questions!
Hope you all liked it.
Thank you for reading!!!
----------
The pictures that I could find on my phone
----------
STRIPPING
MASKING
PRIMING
SPRAYING AND CLEAR
RESULT
Important tips
1. Never start off without consolidating all materials at one place.
2. Have a time table and stick to the schedule. If you can do just sanding for one just do it and nothing else.
3. Decide if you want to do the clear coating by yourself or through a painter. It matters.
4. Sanding the surface before color is very important. Any coarse patches would show up once you spray. Ask your friend or family member to do a quality check. We are not going to show case our paint job at any exhibition.
5. 2000 grit sandpaper is very important.
6. Always wash the surface before beginning a another procedure.
7. The distance at which you hold the can away from object determines the quality of job and avoids over spray.
8. Several thin layers is what recommended for durable finish instead of 2 thick layers.
9. If you over sprayed just ignore and proceed. It can be taken once dried by wet sanding.
10. Do the paint job in a ventilated area with good sunlight. The aerosol pigments settles down on nearby objects and becomes powder. So cover the nearby objects like washing machine, another bike, wall, windows, etc., to avoid passive spraying.
11. If you intend to do the clear coat and hardener through a painter, talk to him first if he can just help with clear coat alone. Tell him you received this tank and plastics from a friend who abandoned the paint job and put the bike to scrap.
Attached Files
.
smudging the sprinkles around and making the part look whitish.He eve spread the thinner on the digital console and the front wind shield.Now,how do i protect them from getting faded with time as they already lost their original shine just a little bit. ? 
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