Difficulty: Moderate
1 Perforated PCB prototype board (Size depends on your tail light, for me 10 cm x 10 cm was enough)
LEDs -
Red LEDs (Number of LEDs depends on your configuration. I used 46 in my setup),
3 x 1w white LEDs for number plate illumination,
Resistors -
11 x 100 ohm 1/4w,
1 x 100 ohm 1w,
1 x 50 ohm 1/4w,
2 x 250 ohm 1/4w
Diodes-
2 x 1N4001 (If this is not available you can go for 1N4007 as well)
Small Pieces of Wires (Preferably of different colors), 1 Old Tail Lamp Bulb, 3 mm Heat Shrink Tube or Insulation Tape, Hot Melt Glue, (I think M-seal can also be used in this place), Fevicol, Feviquick, Mount board.
Tools Required -
Soldering Iron & wire, Wire Cutter, Hack Saw, File, Scissors, Cutter, Nose Pliers, Lighter (If you are using heat shrink tubes), Glue Gun or Stove (If you are using hot melt glue), 3V & 9V/12 volt battery for testing (You can connect small AA batteries together to make 9V/12V or you can use laptop charger for testing).
Methodology:
Step 1: Making a Template
Remove your tail light lens & trace the shape on mount board or cardboard. Cut the shape and try if it fits properly inside the lens. Make proper recess for mounting screws.
Step 2: Cutting & shaping the PCB
Trace the shape of the template on the perforated board. Trial fit your LEDs to see if your desired configuration fits properly on the board. Once you are satisfied with the configuration cut the PCB using hack saw. File the edges of the PCB and see if the PCB fits properly inside the lens. If you are confident enough you can skip the step 1 & directly cut the PCB.
Checking the configuration.
Fits perfectly.
Step 3: Fitting the Red LEDs on the Board
Red LEDs stuck on board.
Step 4: Soldering the circuit
Solder the LEDs on the board. You may cut the leads as they will interfere while soldering or you can take advantage of LED leads to connect them in series. Follow the circuit diagram & connect the LEDs in series by soldering.
Connect the resistors as per circuit diagram. Use insulation tape or heat sink to insulate the bare leads of the resistors. Connect all the +ves together & -ves together.
Ready to receive solder.
You may See the resistors placed little different from the board diagram, but the circuit is same. The board diagram circuit is little more optimized.
Step 5: Intermediate testing
Powered up from 9V battery. All is well.
Step 6: Number plate illumination
Step 7: Power Connectionbefore diode.
Running Light Connection.
Shrinking the sleeve.
Step 8: Making the Bulb Sleeve End
Step 9: Insulating the Bulb sleeve
Hot melt glue ready to be heated.
Hot melt glue in place. The small black piece is for easy installation of sleeve in the bulb holder.
Step 10: Testing before the Final Connection
Connect the small ends of the wires from bulb sleeve to the respective ones on the board. You can temporarily insulate them with insulation tape. The setup is ready to be tested on board. Install the sleeve in the bulb holder. Turn the key on and check if everything is working properly. Check if the brake light and running light are connected properly to the respective connections. Also make sure the number plate illumination is turning on with the running lights only.
Step 11: Final Connection
If everything is correct you can now go for final connection. If the wires are wrongly connected then you can swap them to correct it. Insert heat shrink sleeves & solder the final connection. Heat the sleeves to shrink fit them.
The final Setup ready for installation. Notice the insulation, its important as the bulb sleeve might touch the bare wires after you install in place.
Step 12: Final Installation
Insert the board in the tail lamp lens; install the sleeve in the holder. Make sure everything is insulated properly. Fix the lens and you are done.
This is how it looks from bottom.
Results:
Check the results in the following images.
Running Light ON. Notice the white Light it looks awesome.
Photo of my messed up work place.



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