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Have nowhere to lock that beautiful motocross helmet as you walk away from your Impulse?
Problem Solved!
This is my guide on how to extend a metal plate out the back of an Impulse and use it to attach a helmet lock.
While the guide is mainly for the Impulse. The idea is to think outside the box. Why should you need a pipe to mount a helmet lock?
All you really need is a location where you can drill 4 holes.
Other than the obvious, other uses for the helmet lock include fastening grocery packets if you keep them on the carrier, and for passing the back-strap of a Via Terra claw, thereby saving the tail light from undue stress
The photos will not be as good because when I made this, I was not in the habit of documenting everything for the purpose of blogging. However, PM me, and I will try to recreate some of the steps for photographs if the explanation provided is not very clear.
Level – Not so hard, but you will need some place that does drilling, gas cutting, etc of metal sheets
Requirements:
A guy willing to do simple sheet metal fabrication
Helmet lock (something like this: Bike Helmet Locking Device FOR Moped Motor Cycle | eBay)
Split washers and/or Loctite help to stop the parts vibrating loose (happened once to me). I go the jugad route and wrap the bolt in teflon tape, generally used for water-tighting pipe joints
Paint is suggested to prevent rusting
The ability to cut using just a hacksaw blade without the frame. Wrap one end in insulation tape for about 50mm to create a handle
Tools:
T spanner 8 mm (ring will also work, but T spanner preferred)
T spanner 10 mm
T spanner 12 mm
Screwdriver
Hacksaw blade
File (a sanding attachment on a rotary tool works better)
If you have rotary tool, then cutting disc also comes in handy
Step 1: Fabricating the plate
The design is available here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2F...ew?usp=sharing
When printing, ensure scaling option is set to ‘Do not scale’, and after printing, measure the dimensions once to ensure that they are the right size.
Give special attention to the holes meant for the helmet lock. These were the dimensions on mine. Not necessary they would match yours. Remark hole locations if required.
Get this cut out from a 4 mm thick plate.
Step 2: Removing the grips
For this step, first remove the 2 side covers by undoing screws highlighted, then pulling back on the front of the cover to release the plug from the grommet.
Undo the 10mm bolt on both sides that hold the seat in place.
Pull the seat backwards till it hits the plastic carrier. Then lift the rear of the seat while pushing down on the front part that sits on the tank.
Remove the rubber caps on the carrier (if you still have them, then remove the plastic carrier by undoing the 6 bolts shown (8mm). The rear 4 have washers. Keep them safe
2 bolts with 10 mm head release the tail light from the grips.
2 bolts on top, and 2 on the side hold the 2 rear grips in place. The one on the side has nuts that are normally held by friction. Once you loosen the bolt, hold the nut by hand while you continue to loosen and the grips can come off.
The rear winkers come off along with the grips so disconnect their wires. No need to really pay attention to where the wires connect. It is all colour coded, so reassembly is easy.
Step 3: Preparing the grips
The top of the grips have 4 raised cylinders. Each of these cylinders are 4mm above the grip surface. These cylinders have to be cut down till they are flush with the grip surface. This 4mm will then be taken up by the plate.
Place the hacksaw blade so that it is parallel and resting on the rear grip surface. Slowly begin cutting off each cylinder. Rotating the grip every now and then helps.
Once all 4 are cut, use a file or sanding wheel to smooth out your work. The blade will inevitably leave scratches on the grip surface. You can patch these up with paint or leave them as is. They will not be seen, and since it is aluminum, there will be no rusting.
Step 4: Reinstalling the grips
Follow step 2 in reverse to reinstall
Reconnect winker wires: Blue to blue, orange to orange, greens to green. Make sure the wires are tucked away neatly when reinstalling the grip
Tighten the 4 bolts for the 2 grips. For the side bolts, hold the inside nut with one hand. When the bolt gets tight, there will be enough friction of the nut that it will not rotate.
Reinstall the bolts for the tail light
Step 5: Trimming the carrier cover
Place the manufactured plate on the grip surface. Line up the holes, insert any 2 bolts and hand tight to hold it in place. Place the plastic carrier cover in its place and mark on the rear where it needs to be trimmed so that it sits flush with the helmet holder.
Use a file or cutting wheel to trim the cover.
Step 6: Mounting the plate
Loosen the bolts and try to keep the plate in the same place. Reinstall the plastic carrier cover. On the rear, Insert the washer on the bolt, pass the bolt through the hole in the carrier, through the hole in the plate and into the threaded hole in the grip. Do not use too much torque as this hole is now 4mm shorter than it used to be (courtesy of step 3). When mounting the front 2, don’t forget the seat catch, and make sure that it opens towards the back.
Step 7: Reinstalling the seat
Little tricky if you have not done this before. Look at the keyhole shaped slot under the front of the seat. Line it up with the flange on the rear of the tank.
Push the front of the seat hard against the tank and lift it up the rear of the tank, while slowly lowering the rear of the seat. Try to pull the top of the front of the seat backwards. If it is loose, you will know that the flange did not catch the slot. If the front is tight, try to pull the rear of the seat up. Most likely, you will not have managed to catch the front and back in 1 motion, and the rear will be loose. Pull the seat back till it touches the carrier. You should feel the seat drop down a bit, then push it forwards. Lift the rear again to check if the seat catch is holding the seat in place.
If all is well, tighten the bolts on the 2 sides to hold the seat in place. Then reassemble the 2 side covers. Slide in the back first, then insert the front plug into the grommet to hold it in place while you tighten the screws. For the rear screw, you will have to lift the cover to ensure that the holes align.
Step 8: Install the helmet lock, and done
The lock should come with instructions for how to mount on a pipe. Take apart the lock, and you can discard the plastic inserts and the lower semicircle. At this point, the screws will be much longer than needed. They do not cause any problem, but if you think they don’t look good sticking out, you can cut them using a hacksaw. Line up the holes of the helmet lock with those on the plate and insert the bolts from the bottom, preferably with split washers and/or Loctite and/or Teflon tape. I lost 3 bolts that vibrated loose before I added in split washers and Teflon tape.
So enjoy your modding, and PM me if you need any help. I’ve got quite a slew of mods to go along this one.
Custom design DRL
Rewiring switch cluster so that DRL are always on and you free up 1 spot on the switch for additional lighting/accessory control
USB Charger
LED winkers
Reflective graphics
Rewiring for Aftermarket (Xenon/HID) Headlights
… just to name a few.
Problem Solved!
This is my guide on how to extend a metal plate out the back of an Impulse and use it to attach a helmet lock.
While the guide is mainly for the Impulse. The idea is to think outside the box. Why should you need a pipe to mount a helmet lock?
All you really need is a location where you can drill 4 holes.
Other than the obvious, other uses for the helmet lock include fastening grocery packets if you keep them on the carrier, and for passing the back-strap of a Via Terra claw, thereby saving the tail light from undue stress
The photos will not be as good because when I made this, I was not in the habit of documenting everything for the purpose of blogging. However, PM me, and I will try to recreate some of the steps for photographs if the explanation provided is not very clear.
Level – Not so hard, but you will need some place that does drilling, gas cutting, etc of metal sheets
Requirements:
A guy willing to do simple sheet metal fabrication
Helmet lock (something like this: Bike Helmet Locking Device FOR Moped Motor Cycle | eBay)
Split washers and/or Loctite help to stop the parts vibrating loose (happened once to me). I go the jugad route and wrap the bolt in teflon tape, generally used for water-tighting pipe joints
Paint is suggested to prevent rusting
The ability to cut using just a hacksaw blade without the frame. Wrap one end in insulation tape for about 50mm to create a handle
Tools:
T spanner 8 mm (ring will also work, but T spanner preferred)
T spanner 10 mm
T spanner 12 mm
Screwdriver
Hacksaw blade
File (a sanding attachment on a rotary tool works better)
If you have rotary tool, then cutting disc also comes in handy
Step 1: Fabricating the plate
The design is available here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2F...ew?usp=sharing
When printing, ensure scaling option is set to ‘Do not scale’, and after printing, measure the dimensions once to ensure that they are the right size.
Give special attention to the holes meant for the helmet lock. These were the dimensions on mine. Not necessary they would match yours. Remark hole locations if required.
Get this cut out from a 4 mm thick plate.
Step 2: Removing the grips
For this step, first remove the 2 side covers by undoing screws highlighted, then pulling back on the front of the cover to release the plug from the grommet.
Undo the 10mm bolt on both sides that hold the seat in place.
Pull the seat backwards till it hits the plastic carrier. Then lift the rear of the seat while pushing down on the front part that sits on the tank.
Remove the rubber caps on the carrier (if you still have them, then remove the plastic carrier by undoing the 6 bolts shown (8mm). The rear 4 have washers. Keep them safe
2 bolts with 10 mm head release the tail light from the grips.
2 bolts on top, and 2 on the side hold the 2 rear grips in place. The one on the side has nuts that are normally held by friction. Once you loosen the bolt, hold the nut by hand while you continue to loosen and the grips can come off.
The rear winkers come off along with the grips so disconnect their wires. No need to really pay attention to where the wires connect. It is all colour coded, so reassembly is easy.
Step 3: Preparing the grips
The top of the grips have 4 raised cylinders. Each of these cylinders are 4mm above the grip surface. These cylinders have to be cut down till they are flush with the grip surface. This 4mm will then be taken up by the plate.
Place the hacksaw blade so that it is parallel and resting on the rear grip surface. Slowly begin cutting off each cylinder. Rotating the grip every now and then helps.
Once all 4 are cut, use a file or sanding wheel to smooth out your work. The blade will inevitably leave scratches on the grip surface. You can patch these up with paint or leave them as is. They will not be seen, and since it is aluminum, there will be no rusting.
Step 4: Reinstalling the grips
Follow step 2 in reverse to reinstall
Reconnect winker wires: Blue to blue, orange to orange, greens to green. Make sure the wires are tucked away neatly when reinstalling the grip
Tighten the 4 bolts for the 2 grips. For the side bolts, hold the inside nut with one hand. When the bolt gets tight, there will be enough friction of the nut that it will not rotate.
Reinstall the bolts for the tail light
Step 5: Trimming the carrier cover
Place the manufactured plate on the grip surface. Line up the holes, insert any 2 bolts and hand tight to hold it in place. Place the plastic carrier cover in its place and mark on the rear where it needs to be trimmed so that it sits flush with the helmet holder.
Use a file or cutting wheel to trim the cover.
Step 6: Mounting the plate
Loosen the bolts and try to keep the plate in the same place. Reinstall the plastic carrier cover. On the rear, Insert the washer on the bolt, pass the bolt through the hole in the carrier, through the hole in the plate and into the threaded hole in the grip. Do not use too much torque as this hole is now 4mm shorter than it used to be (courtesy of step 3). When mounting the front 2, don’t forget the seat catch, and make sure that it opens towards the back.
Step 7: Reinstalling the seat
Little tricky if you have not done this before. Look at the keyhole shaped slot under the front of the seat. Line it up with the flange on the rear of the tank.
Push the front of the seat hard against the tank and lift it up the rear of the tank, while slowly lowering the rear of the seat. Try to pull the top of the front of the seat backwards. If it is loose, you will know that the flange did not catch the slot. If the front is tight, try to pull the rear of the seat up. Most likely, you will not have managed to catch the front and back in 1 motion, and the rear will be loose. Pull the seat back till it touches the carrier. You should feel the seat drop down a bit, then push it forwards. Lift the rear again to check if the seat catch is holding the seat in place.
If all is well, tighten the bolts on the 2 sides to hold the seat in place. Then reassemble the 2 side covers. Slide in the back first, then insert the front plug into the grommet to hold it in place while you tighten the screws. For the rear screw, you will have to lift the cover to ensure that the holes align.
Step 8: Install the helmet lock, and done
The lock should come with instructions for how to mount on a pipe. Take apart the lock, and you can discard the plastic inserts and the lower semicircle. At this point, the screws will be much longer than needed. They do not cause any problem, but if you think they don’t look good sticking out, you can cut them using a hacksaw. Line up the holes of the helmet lock with those on the plate and insert the bolts from the bottom, preferably with split washers and/or Loctite and/or Teflon tape. I lost 3 bolts that vibrated loose before I added in split washers and Teflon tape.
So enjoy your modding, and PM me if you need any help. I’ve got quite a slew of mods to go along this one.
Custom design DRL
Rewiring switch cluster so that DRL are always on and you free up 1 spot on the switch for additional lighting/accessory control
USB Charger
LED winkers
Reflective graphics
Rewiring for Aftermarket (Xenon/HID) Headlights
… just to name a few.
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