Re: Making of Kawasaki Ninja 300 San

Topic Approved

Thanks for starting this thread. Waiting for all the information to start rolling in

Changing the coolant to Engine Ice.

Changing the coolant to Engine Ice.
Acknowledgements: Before I start this write up I would like to acknowledge Vikram and Vijay of Motozone, Pune (also in Mumbai), for their excellent support. They spent their entire Sunday on my bike and made arrangements for all the required items and consumables. I just needed to take the bike to them and they did all the rest. Vikram, Vijay, really appreciate the time, effort and the professionalism shown by you












After the coolant reservoir was emptied, it was washed and flushed with demineralized water.



Once the coolant reservoir was cleaned of all the residual old coolant, the next step was to remove all the coolant in the radiator and the engine. To remove all the coolant, the radiator cap was removed and the coolant drain bolt on left side of engine at the bottom was removed.






To ensure that all the coolant was drained the left side radiator pipe was disconnected and the residual coolant present in the radiator was removed.




The bike was then left to sit for about 15 minutes to allow for any residual coolant to drip out.

After that concoction of demineralized water and white vinegar was made with a ratio of 50:50. Since the coolant capacity of the engine is 1.5 liters this meant 750 ml (one bottle) of water and 750 ml of vinegar.

The concoction was then poured into the radiator and the hoses were gently pinched to remove any air pockets and bubbles. The engine was started and run till the cooling fan started. The cooling fan was allowed to switch on twice before shutting the engine down.



The engine was then allowed to cool for about 20 to 25 minutes and then opening the drain bolt the concoction was drained out.


In my enthusiasm I was asking Vikram to start the next step of putting plain demineralized water in to the radiator. Vikram explained to me his reasons for waiting for another 15 to 20 minutes before starting the process. There is always a one in million chance that while the radiator and the cylinders are still reasonably hot, pouring cold or room temperature liquid into the system could cause the hot metal to distort or even crack in extreme cases. Full marks to the gentleman for thinking in such detail and deliberating every step that needs to be taken. While such things may seem obvious, how many of us pay attention to such details?

After the engine had cooled down enough, 1.5 liters of plain demineralized water was poured into the cooling system to ensure flushing of the remaining of any of the concoction. Engine was once again started and allowed to run till the cooling fan started twice.

Once again the drain procedure was followed and the engine was allowed to cool down. The coolant drain bolt was then torqued to the recommended 9.8 Nm with a torque wrench.

Once the engine had cooled down, Vikram took a container of Engine Ice coolant and poured it in to the radiator.





He then poured the Engine Ice into the coolant reservoir.



Once again all the hoses were gently squeezed to remove all the air pockets and bubbles. The engine was once again started and run of 20 minutes. All joints were constantly monitored to check for any leaks. After the engine was switched off the level of coolant in the reservoir was once again checked before the reassembly of the fairings was started.

Usage Experience

I have been using Engine Ice in my R15 for the past 2 years and have been happy with the experience. Today on the N300, when the ambient temperature was 31 degrees the fan came on only once in the traffic, whereas previously it use to come on at least 4 to 5 times during my daily ride to office.
So overall a good experience and a Sunday well spent, thanks to the people at Motozone.

Re: Making of Kawasaki Ninja 300 San

Cool. Can we also have the Ninja 300 review by abhimanyu31 on this thread. I liked the review (R15 riders in particular can easily relate to it).

Re: Making of Kawasaki Ninja 300 San

Kewl..!!! And the thread is taking shape into another informative thread.

We really need to encourage more of such threads in here in order to have some quality information accessible instantly.

Cheers
Ride Safe
Krishna

Re: Making of Kawasaki Ninja 300 San

Wow! I was waiting for this to happen. Please keep rolling the updates/knowledge sir jee.

Re: Making of Kawasaki Ninja 300 San

Wowsome!! Time to bring pen and book.

Cheerz!!

Re: Making of Kawasaki Ninja 300 San

Guys, another request, let's also try and keep this thread clean. From now on let's not post random comments, unless it is a reasonable query or some valid opinion. What say ?

I reserve my comments from now on in this thread.

Cheers
Ride Safe
Krishna

Pipercross Performance Air Filter

Pipercross Performance Air Filter

Courtesy: Vikram @ Motozone, Pune, Mumbai.
Photos: Sony Xperia ZInstallation of Pipercross Air Filter



One side is red in colour, whereas the other side is grey. The second thing that you, will notice is that its actually 2 different types of foam bonded together. The grey foam is coarse grade foam (outer layer), which is used to trap large particles. The red foam is fine grade foam (inner layer), which filters out remaining particle till size of 5 microns to allow clean air to enter the engine.

The removal of the air filter on the Ninja 300 is a fairly straightforward job. Remove the screws of the black plastic panel under the front seat on the left side.


Then unscrew and remove white panel that rest above the black panel.


Once you have removed the white and black panel, you now have access to the stock air filter.


Now pull the stock air filter out.


The stock air filter has a plastic frame on both sides of the foam that is press fit. The purpose of this frame is to maintain the structural integrity of the foam and not allow it to deform under heavy suction.

Remove the plastic frame by gently pushing and pulling on the two male/female pins located in the middle of the frame.


Below is the state of the stock air filter after the bike having run for 1,600 kms. Kawasaki recommends a cleaning interval of 6,000 kms and replacement of the filter at every 12,000 kms or 2 years (whichever is earlier). Looking at the state of the filter after just 1,600 kms, I honestly think it would be prudent to clean the filter at intervals between 3,000 to 4,000 kms. As a side note, I find it a bit strange that Kawasaki recommends that stock foam filter be replaced every 12,000 kms. Normally, foam filters are washable and re-useable.



Now to the next step. Install the plastic frame that was removed from the stock filter on the Pipercross.




The Pipercross was sprayed with this oil spray can and allowed to soak for 10 minutes before being plugged into the airbox.




After ensuring that the oil had soaked through the entire air filter it was plugged into the air box.


Please note that it is very important to ensure that the red side (fine side) of the air filter is facing the engine (up) and the grey side (coarse side) is facing towards the back of the bike (down).


Reinstall the panels and you are done with the installation.

Ride experience

Leo Vince LVI full exhaust and AreaP Micro Fuel Controller Installation. Part I

Leo Vince LVI full exhaust and AreaP Micro Fuel Controller Installation. Part I

Acknowledgements: I will like to thank Vikram and Vijay of Motozone Pune, Mumbai for their time and effort without whom this build would not be possible.


Note.: The post is too long therefore will be posted in parts.

Finally after nearly 5 months of foraging and collecting of all parts I have been able install my Leo Vince LVI full exhaust.
This is going to be a long post with lots of photos and explanations, so people, get yourself a mug of coffee or a tub of popcorn and make yourself really comfortable.

BackgroundA full exhaust system or slip on? Which make?
LV Corsa full exhaust power output for Ninja 300.

The LVI is designed with street use as the primary criterion. It starts to make more power than the stock right from 3,000 rpm. The power starts to tapper out post 8,500 rpm and dips sharply at 9,500 rpm before picking up to reach the redline. This is a system that will be really road friendly and tractable through day-to-day traffic.

FuelingNONOTDIY: Dynojet Autotune How-To with PCV - ninjette.org

One of the plus points of opting for the AreaP/ Fuel Moto Micro Controller was that they would provide me with maps for lifetime. I can make changes to my bike and they will create a fuel map accordingly and send it across to me.

With the above information, Kerry created a fuel map and preloaded it on the Micro Fuel controller before shipping it out to my cousin.

Before I proceed further I would like to comment on the hardware provided by AreaP. Below is photo of the hardware.



As you will note it says Micro EFI tuner by DynoJet. So yes, the unit is rebadged DynoJet Fuel Controller aka DFC. Below is a photo of the DFC.
Next: Installation of Leo Vince LVI full exhaust system.

Re: Leo Vince LVI full exhaust and AreaP Micro Fuel Controller Installation. Part I

Have been following the N300 ownership thread just for your posts and then there is this bible...wow. Thread bookmarked and waiting for updates.

Special request : Could you please give me the link to your R15's thread.

Re: Leo Vince LVI full exhaust and AreaP Micro Fuel Controller Installation. Part I

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Re: Leo Vince LVI full exhaust and AreaP Micro Fuel Controller Installation. Part I

Thans bro...

Leo Vince LVI full exhaust and AreaP Micro Fuel Controller Installation. Part II

Leo Vince LVI full exhaust and AreaP Micro Fuel Controller Installation. Part II

Installation of Leo Vince LVI full exhaust system

So finally after 5 months of plotting and planning we have reached the stage for executing the installation.

Before we started installation we decided to install swing arm spools to ensure a positive lock with the paddock stand. Vikram was insistent and now I too agree that the spools are essential if you are going to any work on your bike irrespective of whether you add performance parts or keep you bike stock.





Once that was completed we removed the bodywork. The stock exhaust is in 2 parts i.e. the header pipes and the muffler. First the heat shield was removed.





Then the muffler was removed.




After the muffler was removed, the front exhaust pipe nuts were removed and exhaust pipe mounting blot at the bottom near the rear suspension was removed and oxygen sensor was unhooked from the connector. Below is a photo of the stock exhaust system.






The stock system is heavy and as for the quality, less said the better. However, the rust on the stock muffler. People who are going to live with stock system should resign themselves to the fact that no matter what they do, they are not going to be able to prevent it from rusting.

Once the stock system was out. The LVI was unpacked. The LVI comes in nice box and is well packed to prevent any damage during transit or storage.






The LVI comes with all the parts including nuts and bolts you will require to install the system. However, it will not come with copper exhaust gaskets. It is normally advisable to change these gaskets when you change the exhaust. I had sourced these gaskets through the SVC and had them ready for installation.




Once we had checked the fitting of all the parts we started installing the system on the bike. First the exhaust flanges were bolted on the exhaust ports after putting in new copper gaskets. All fasteners were left loose till the final assembly is completed.






Then the mid section was installed.


Then the primary header pipes were installed.




Finally the carbon fiber muffler was installed.


Once all the parts were fitted and checked of alignment, the springs were installed to hold the joints together.






After the springs were mounted, all nuts and bolts were tightened. The exhaust comes with 2 db killers. One is already mounted on the muffler. Another one that offers even more sound suppression. We decided to run with the db insert that is already mounted on the system.




The complete process took us about 30 minutes from the moment we loosen the first nut to the moment we tighten the last nut. The exhaust system comes with a comprehensive installation booklet. However, since Vikram and Vijay have a number of such installations in the past we did not need to refer to it. They knew exactly what needs to be done and how it needs to be done.

Leo Vince LVI full exhaust and AreaP Micro Fuel Controller Installation. Part III

Leo Vince LVI full exhaust and AreaP Micro Fuel Controller Installation. Part III

Installation of AreaP/ Fuel Moto Micro Fuel Controller

The Micro Fuel Controller comes in plain white box. The box contains the Micro Controller, software DC, USB cable, installation instructions and Velcro strips.

The Micro Fuel Controller consists of the following features:
1. Store up to 3 different fuel maps which can be switched by simple turn of knob.
2. Real time tuning for injector control with +250% to -100% range control.
3. OEM type plug and play connectors. No cutting and splicing of wiring required.
4. Ability to tune for individual cylinders with 250 rpm resolution. Upto 600 tuning points including deceleration and idle.
5. Included software (PC based) allows full control over tuning points.
6. Compatible with Power Commander V maps.

Not included in the kit was the O2 sensor eliminator. The U.S. version of the Ninja 300 does not have an O2 sensor, therefore, the same is not included in the kit. I had to order it as extra.


The Micro Controller was put in the storage box under the rear seat.




And the wiring loom was then rooted through the right side of the bike along the sub frame.


The connector box on top of the battery was moved aside and battery terminals were disconnected.


The primary TPS sensor connector (grey colour) was disconnected. Note the black connector for secondary TPS sensor and the servomotor below it. The Ninja 300 uses 2 butterfly valves in the throttle body. The first one (primary) is connected to the throttle cable and the primary TPS measures the opening of butterfly valve and sends a signal to the ECU. Based on the inputs and other parameters the ECU then signals the servomotor to open the secondary butterfly valve. The secondary TPS reads the opening of the second (secondary) butterfly valve and sends a signal to the ECU. The throttle body, TPS sensors and the injectors are of Keihin make.


Connectors to the fuel injectors (green female socket) were disconnected.


The O2 sensor eliminator was installed into the socket for O2 sensor.




Unlike the Ninja 250, the Ninja 300 comes with a nifty bracket on which the O2 sensor mounts securely and is not kept hanging about.


The role of the O2 sensor: It is generally assumed that a bike with an O2 sensor has a closed loop fueling system. This is not exactly true. While there are high-end bikes that have a true closed loop fueling system most bikes have a semi closed loop system. For a truly closed loop system a wide band O2 sensor is required. Most bikes are mounted with a narrow band O2 sensor. These bikes actually have their fueling divided into 2 areas. One area is closed loop and the second is open loop. The role of the O2 is very specific and narrow with such sensors. More than performance, these sensors are configured to measure for the closed loop area of the fuel, which is calibrated to operate at or around Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) of 14.6:1. In most cases the closed loop area is from 0% throttle to about 60% of the throttle. A narrow band sensor can only measure a very narrow value i.e. is the AFR 14.6:1 or not (it has a tolerance level of +/- 0.3). Based on its inputs the ECU adjust the fueling to ensure the next fuel cycle tries achieve the desired AFR.

Although the system has some ability to adjust and adapt for factors such as variation in fuels, production tolerances of stock components, etc., it simply is not tuned for free flow exhaust components. It has one agenda and one only i.e. to maintain AFR at or around 14.6. Therefore, the O2 sensor needs to be removed. However, simply removing the O2 sensor generates an error from the ECU and the engine check light will come on. Therefore, a sensor eliminator is used to lock the system into open loop mode and prevent the system from throwing an error.

Once the O2 sensor eliminator was connected, the connector from the connector from ECU to the TPS was connected in line with the Micro Fuel controller and the cable from the Micro Fuel controller was connected to the TPS connector.




The fuel injector connectors were installed in line with the Micro Fuel controller. The 2 connectors from the Micro Fuel controller are marked by orange and yellow cables in the respective looms. The socket with the orange cable is to go to cylinder # 1 i.e. the right side cylinder. The socket with yellow cable is go to cylinder # 2 i.e. the left side cylinder.






Once all the connectors were connected, the whole assembly was checked and rechecked for proper fastening and correctness of the assembly.

Vikram then switched on the ignition (the battery was disconnected) to drain any residual power still in the sensors and reset the complete system.

After waiting for couple of minutes, the ignition was switched off and the ground wire from the Micro Fuel controller was attached to the negative terminal of the battery. Vikram then took a small bulb and connected one end of the bulb to positive terminal and ground the other end to the chassis. Upon inquiring about this he informed me that this is to ensure that there is no abrupt surge of charge when we connect the main cable to the positive terminal. Vikram then attached the main cable to the positive terminal.

It was time to test the outcome of all our efforts. Fingers crossed, switch on the ignition and the bike does its self-diagnostic check. No signs of any errors, looks like the O2 sensor eliminator is doing its job. Flick the engine kill switch and push the start button. The bike starts in the first instance and settles to warm up just as the stock bike would.

The first thing that you will invariably notice is the sound of the exhaust. It will give you goose bumps. It is like an Italian opera. It is like Luciano Pavarotti of motorcycles is himself present here. The sound just has NINJA written over it. The complete character of the bike has just been transformed from Bruce Wayne to Batman. The bike sounds as Italian and delicious as the Ducati 848 EVO. It is guaranteed to make heads turn. After allowing the bike to warm up. It was switched off and all the bodywork was put together.

Unfortunately, we were all so excited that all of us forgot to take any video or photos of the test run that was done. Vijay took the bike out for a spin outside. He did couple of runs while Vikram and I stood by the side and watched. The results were unbelievable. Under acceleration, the rear suspension was squatting noticeably and the rear was wiggling and struggling to maintain grip. These runs were normal acceleration runs and not high rpm launches with clutch slipping. On the second run the bike popped wheelies when changing from 1^st to 2^nd gear and 2^nd to 3^rd. If the rear suspension is firmed up further it will be even more wheelie prone. According to Vijay, he was not pushing to the max as it was still new.

So there is definitely more power being made than stock and from the seat of the pants it feels substantial. The throttle response is very quick and sublime. Someone in the earlier post has queried about the amount of db. Well, it is loud and has bass to the exhaust note. At idle while loud, no cop is going to think much about the sound and give it a second glance. Upto 5,000 rpm the sound is within acceptable limits. It is not louder than any other vehicle running besides it, though its different. After 5,000 rpm, all hell brakes loose. It sounds and feels like a superbike.

I am extremely happy with the way the bike has transformed from a gentleman in Brooks Brothers 3 piece suit to a assassin clad in white Shinobi Shozoko with a Shinogi Katana sword. Welcome home Ninja San!!!