Engine / Engine Oil Flushing is not really required unless you probably want to clean the internals of an old engine (especially for sludge) without opening it up. For switching between oils it isn't really needed. In fact, it might not be that a good thing to do. Here are my reasons:

1) Engine oils are compatible with each other. Everything is lubricating material although with different properties. Every oil comes with standard additives & stabilizers that make sure different types of oils, when mixed, are compatible with each other and there won't be any odd reaction or sort of.

2) Even when you drain the engine oil or flush the engine oil, there would be 200 to 400 ml of engine oil or engine oil + flushing agent left in the engine that will not come out of the engine unless you open it up. When you add new engine oil, it mixes with the existing oil in the engine.

Now, I'd better let the new fully synthetic engine oil mix with the burnt mineral oil than letting it mix with a flushing agent.

FYI - most bikes 150cc & above have 1.2 liter as engine oil capacity but only 1L as required refill. 200 ml stays in different compartments in the engine that are purpose built to store minute quantities of engine oil for lubrication during cold start - like at the timing chain tensioner, the rocker roller arms, the clutch case that I know of.

The Karizma's Engine oil capacity is 1.3L and refill is 900ml. The P200/220 won't be very different with oil remaining not just in the engine but also in the radiator. Pls check the manuals for correct details.

3) Various parts in the engine need the carbon deposits on them to be there for good functioning. Like the Valve heads need the carbon deposits for better lubrication. Various oil seals and gaps in the gaskets/packing have carbon deposits in them (in engines that have seen some life). Flushing agents clean all that away and that can cause problems.

4) Every engine oil has detergents whose purpose is to clean the engine internals. In fact, the top three functions of an engine oil are 1) Lubrication, 2) temperature control, 3) cleaning the internals. A good engine oil does its cleaning job well. Maintaining the engine with timely oil change with good oil is good enough to maintain the engine well.

Do you get a hint on why the Pulsars leak oil when Motul 300V is used? It uses Double Ester technology. The Esters are the best cleaning agents. In the process of cleaning they eat away the dirt and some engine packing material.

I haven't used the correct technical terms but tried to give the gist of it in my own words. Now you guys decide what you want to do.

Now, there comes another problem. Although i've heard of this, not ready to experience it. Adding an extra gasket will solve the issue??? or is there something else???

Some people changed the engine packing/gaskets and there was no problem.

Some people changed the engine packing/gaskets but the problem resurfaced.

Some people changed the engine packing/gaskets and never came back to Motul 300v.

When this happened, I have seen on some engines that the SC guys used a sealant like AnaBond to block the leakage.

Ur scaring me now!!!! I'm switching to Motul 300v for Touring and stuff and can't afford to lose that money. Any suggestions that will put a stop to the leakages??

Ur scaring me now!!!! I'm switching to Motul 300v for Touring and stuff and can't afford to lose that money. Any suggestions that will put a stop to the leakages??

Ur scaring me now!!!! I'm switching to Motul 300v for Touring and stuff and can't afford to lose that money. Any suggestions that will put a stop to the leakages??

you can use motul semi synthetic it will serve the purpose of touring with some more frequent drain intervals than Motul 300V, alot of people are running this oil(5100 4T) on there pulsars without any issue. and said the oil to be close in performance with synthetics.

can't do it dude, cos i've already purchased 2 cans of 300v

have you redone your engine or itz the same that was before accident, if itz the same as before than you can use youe MOTUL 300V, as most of the times P180's have leakages, leaks in P200,P220 are very rare as compared to P180. even if there is leakage then just use that anabond tube(used for sticking rubber parts with a metal or rubber, it also acts as seal).

I've not redone the engine but have plans to de-carb the engine before i get down on Motul 300v. Cos. it's clocked 25000k approx and i think it's necessary to do it now.

i donot think so that your bike needs a decarb at this time. but choice is yours. i will not prefer doing it.

as you have not redone the engine then you can use your 300V with no headaches ..

donot bother about people saying leaks as i have yet to see a P200,P220(atleast in my friends circle) which has leaked motul 300V.
i am posting below the pulsars of mine friends havin clocked
(for your doubt clearence)
Pulsar
200 17000kms(approx) Motul 300V 4T(no leaks )
220(FI) 4500(approx ) Motul 300V(using currently no problems)
180 UG4(mine) 2800kms Motul 5100 4T(no leaks)

i donot think so that your bike needs a decarb at this time. but choice is yours. i will not prefer doing it.

as you have not redone the engine then you can use your 300V with no headaches ..

donot bother about people saying leaks as i have yet to see a P200,P220(atleast in my friends circle) which has leaked motul 300V.
i am posting below the pulsars of mine friends havin clocked
(for your doubt clearence)
Pulsar
200 17000kms(approx) Motul 300V 4T(no leaks )
220(FI) 4500(approx ) Motul 300V(using currently no problems)
180 UG4(mine) 2800kms Motul 5100 4T(no leaks)

Thanks for bringing back my confidence level!

I would not like to dampen your confidence, but for me 300V resulted in leaking head (P180UG3). It's a fact that rubber gaskets and sealants soaked in mineral oil for some duration will leak when soaked in Synthetic Oil.

But, even when head leaks, the oil loss would be even lesser than the oil being burnt by the engine. Once i replaced the sealants, everything worked like charm.. and it's worth for 300V, especially for touring.

While on my trip, I rode with 300V till 6K, without any problems! And there's no need of flushing either, in subsequent refills even that 100ml oil left in the cooler will be replaced. So go ahead.. "Because you are worth it"

I would not like to dampen your confidence, but for me 300V resulted in leaking head (P180UG3). It's a fact that rubber gaskets and sealants soaked in mineral oil for some duration will leak when soaked in Synthetic Oil.

But, even when head leaks, the oil loss would be even lesser than the oil being burnt by the engine. Once i replaced the sealants, everything worked like charm.. and it's worth for 300V, especially for touring.

While on my trip, I rode with 300V till 6K, without any problems! And there's no need of flushing either, in subsequent refills even that 100ml oil left in the cooler will be replaced. So go ahead.. "Because you are worth it"