Since '02 xBhp is different things to different people. From a close knit national community of bikers to India's only motorcycling lifestyle magazine and a place to make like-minded biker friends. Join us

Castrol Power 1

Scan – see – think – act.

Our Partner

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Engine Break in Process and Methods

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #46
    Ok...got your point..every gear shift from 3.5k-4k and top speed 60 even at 6th gear..
    Well, I had seen one guy here saying that after 1000kms, he ripped his engine on every gear to high RPMs...and his engine is very smooth now..
    how does that help? Does he mean that he took his bike to 8.5k even on 1st and 2nd gear?
    Also, I've heard not to keep bike at constant RPM for long time. This scared me more because despite riding an old P150 for 2 years i never knew this. Can anyone explain more about this? What exactly is this RPM logic?
    Are there more such bike related precautions which are very important?

    Comment


    • #47
      Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post
      First of all, there is nothing to be scared. The R15 engine is very good&no one has had issues with it even after heavy ripping during running in. You could have posted this in the R15 thread itself. Anyways, there are various kinds of run-ins, some soft&the others aggressive. Both have their own plus&minus points. If reading from the internet, do not try to emulate methods mentioned for bigger bikes, their engines are different from our bikes'.
      I for one follow the manual method. This is what I did:
      For 1st 750kms.All gear changes at 3500-4000 RPM. Top gear speed upto 60kmph, which translates to 4K RPM again.
      Next 750kms.same RPM gear shifts, took her gradually upto 7K RPM (100kmph) in top gear.
      I will not claim anything, it is just the method I liked to follow for my bike. Others have done harsh running in&they feel their bike runs smoothly too.
      I say read the manual, talk to some other R15 owners&take your pick!
      +1 to that... it's up to u how to do the run-in... but i thing i would say is that for the first 750kms u can even go up to 5k RPM... But the only thing to remember is that don't give more stress to the engine. i.e. at what speed or RPM u ride dosen't matters... but one must gradually increase or decrease the speed and don't ride always at same speed/rpm(vary the speeds)...

      Moral: Any thing u do, do it slowly... consider the bike as a small baby... first teach her how to walk, then run, jump etc. etc.
      sigpic...Ride Long...Ride Safe...

      When you dance with the devil, you wait for the song to stop...

      Comment


      • #48
        Highways? My question is, people vary speed in open highways also? Just so that RPM doesn't stay constant?
        Also, I've heard that we can lock the accelerator to keep the speed in control. Can that be done with R15? To keep it in control initially...
        Last edited by gaurav_c; 07-16-2009, 02:20 PM.

        Comment


        • #49
          Originally posted by gaurav_c View Post
          Highways? My question is, people vary speed in open highways also? Just so that RPM doesn't stay constant?
          Also, I've heard that we can lock the accelerator to keep the speed in control. Can that be done with R15? To keep it in control initially...
          Run her in the city before 1st service atleast. You will get enough of varying speeds&also this helps in setting the gearbox well too.
          Quench my thirst with gasoline!

          Comment


          • #50
            Hmmm...will do that...
            Any info about the locking of accelerator?
            One more thing..this RPM varying thingy is only for the first 1000 kms right?
            Last edited by gaurav_c; 07-16-2009, 02:42 PM.

            Comment


            • #51
              keep her within 4000 RPM, concentrate more on the RPM meter than your odometer. Change gears at the right time(both while going up and down the gears). Also, keep check on your wrist, reaching 4000RPM should also be a gradual process.

              I guess this rule more or less applies to all sub 160cc engines in India.

              Treat her well for the first 1000 kms, she will treat you better, the rest of her life with you. Enjoy.
              **MaSh**

              **Work to Ride and Ride to Work**

              Comment


              • #52
                Sticking to one RPM for long can cause engine glazing. Avoid that. Go through the range of the RPM for good break-in.
                The Wheel was a great invention; Two Wheels with a Motor in between was even better!


                BMW Motorrad Days 2011

                Xbhp's Indo-French Kashmir-Ladakh Tour

                Comment


                • #53
                  Originally posted by ken cool View Post
                  Sticking to one RPM for long can cause engine glazing. Avoid that. Go through the range of the RPM for good break-in.
                  Yup this is wan't i meant...
                  u wrote in single line... i wrote it as an essay... LOL...
                  sigpic...Ride Long...Ride Safe...

                  When you dance with the devil, you wait for the song to stop...

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    With great Power(and Torque) comes great responsibility.

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Look here.
                      Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        Truth behind "Hard Break In"

                        This is an Attempt to reveal the truth of the old, MOST debated subject.
                        Whereas Hard Breaking "Logically appeals" having proofs.
                        Manuals don't suggest so.
                        Confused and baffled I want to know the truth and survey is the best way to do this.


                        Please post your answers this way

                        In this Format

                        Bike:-

                        Run In way:- (hard run in or acc to Owners manual)

                        Fuel efficiency (mileage/average):-

                        0-60:-(If available)

                        Top End:-

                        IF HARD RUN IN
                        Season of Initial kms:- The Season in which you ran the bike the Hard way
                        (winter/summer/rainy)

                        Last option may sound crazy, but Indian bikes are not liquid cooled, and
                        stressing engine so hard takes it beyond its cooling capacity.
                        And acc to laws of cooling it will affect the cooling time as well as rate..


                        No debates , Direct comparison

                        NOTE:-
                        Please post the true and confirmed figures.

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Topic Moved and Approved.
                          :)

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            Bike:- Pulsar 180 UG3 2007

                            Run In way:- Hard run in

                            Fuel efficiency (mileage/average):- never more than 35

                            0-60:- not sure but my bike was definitely quicker than other pulsar 180's

                            Top End:- touched 130+ , have a KnN with bigger jets.

                            IF HARD RUN IN
                            Season of Initial kms:- around september/october

                            Now done 20K kms, at 16K kms my bike started loosing all the oil within 700kms, later it decreased to 200kms.. now i have changed my piston and valves, bike is returning a never before mileage of 50kmpl, just completed running in the engine with new piston, performance needs to be seen.
                            Chrome rims and bling ? get a real life !

                            http://www.facebook.com/GTR33

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              Bike:- Apache RTR 160 2008

                              Run In way:- Hard run in

                              Fuel efficiency (mileage/average):- 40 kmpl

                              0-60:- 4.7 Register in the Meter.

                              Top End:- 112kmph i always run out of road.

                              IF HARD RUN IN
                              Season of Initial kms:- Summer

                              Bike:- CBZ* 2004

                              Run In way:- Hard run in

                              Fuel efficiency (mileage/average):- 36-38 kmpl

                              0-60:- NA

                              Top End:- 105 kmph

                              IF HARD RUN IN
                              Season of Initial kms:- Rains.

                              I am writing this because Breaking in of both the bikes had different reaults due to the Different characters of both of them. One of my friend was also the owner of both the bikes simultaneously. After breakin of the CBZ the performance was definitely better than most other CBZ's but the reliability factor had decreased. Clutch plate, Timing Chain replaced in warranty etc and the engine lasted for only 60k kms i ran the bike for 80k kms without repairing the engine after 80k kms i sold it. Due to worn out timing chain tensioner the engine gave away.
                              But result with RTR was totally different because its performance is good and the vibes are way less than my friends RTR. I dont know how but my bike is smoother and when i drive slow the FE is more than 45 kmpl.
                              Never upgrade without getting your basics RIGHT.

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                Bike:- Bajaj Pulsar Dts-Fi

                                Run In way:- A mix of MotoMan and Manual recommended running. Engine braking was heavily used throughout the 2K kms. Never stuck any particular RPM for long. Hardly Red-Lined the bike. First 300kms shifted gears at 4-4.5K RPM, then shifted at 6K RPM. Oil changed at 75, 300, 750, 2200 Kms and till this time only SVC centre Mineral oil was used. After completion of first 300kms, bike was taken on a 1000 km road trip and was ridden between 60-80Kmph for most part of the trip with short burst to 100-120 in between.

                                Fuel efficiency (mileage/average):- Varies from City to City for first 17K kms was in Chennai and mileage hovered around 30-33 Kmpl. Next 35K kms bike was basically based in Bangalore and was giving anywhere from 34-39 Kmpl.

                                0-60:- Dyno Indicated figures
                                3.6 - 3.8 Seconds for 0K-40K kms on Stock tyres
                                4.2 - 4.5 Second for 40K-52K kms on taller profile tyres

                                Top End:- Varies from City to City again, (Speedo Figures)
                                Chennai - 132 Kmph on stock tyres pre-17K kms
                                Bangalore - 137 Kmph on stock tyres 17-40K kms
                                Bangalore - 144 Kmph on taller profile tyres post 40K kms
                                Dyno Figures
                                0K-40K Kms on Stock tyres - 136-138 Kmph
                                Post 40K kms with taller profile tyres - 144-145 Kmph

                                IF HARD RUN IN
                                Season of Initial kms:- First 2K kms done in less than one month, and the climate varied for Summer type hot, to Thunderstorm rains, to Winter Cold.
                                _________________________
                                LoneWolfRides©

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X