Ride: Pulsar 200
Date of purchase: March 2009
KM's run: 11500
Type of runin: mix of soft and hard(first 500 KM run by dad )
First 500 KM - Rode by dad, City riding, max speed 60 KMPH, never crossed 4K on Tacho.
Next 500 KM - rode by me, went on tour 400 KM. usual shifting at 6K RPM, max speed, 100 KMPH.
1000KM-till date: mix of city/highway riding. Shift at 6-7000K RPM.
Max speed achieved( and I am not proud of this :S) - 143 KMPH, Speedo indicated, down-hill, crouching, single rider, my weight - 64 Kilos.
Mileage - Usually get 30-35 KMPL
Oil: Initial 5000 Kms, used Bajaj recommended (Service station oil)
Have been using Motul 5100 since then.

Conclusion - better initial grunt compared to my Cousin's P200, 12000 KM old (Runin as per manual), engine sounds a wee bit rough though. But that has to do with my riding.

Engine Break in Process and Methods

Guys,

it will be good if we have a discussion on engine break in process and various methods to do it. recently read motoman's method of break in.

the points and questions answerded there was very realistic and logical. Im also posting the methods they saying along with link.

we can discuss on the break in process for diff bikes and diff methods.

so is it the procedure specific sports bike ? commuter bikes matters in the method explained below ?

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

^^ My 200 was hard run-in. 20k kms on the ODO and she skill kicks butt. She still accelerates just as well as she did when she did when i took her for 1st service. But till date, i never rode her without warming up for atleast 5mins and never ripped her unnecessarily.

Guys ,

I've bought a R15 , done just 300kms . It is ok if i give short bursts of 80-90kph ?

Penno, You are out of the period of so called HARD RUNNING-IN.


If one wants to adopt motoman's technique then it shall be done within first 30 kms. The idea behind this is that it is the first 30-40 kms which decides the fate/position/shape of the piston rings. If you want to rip according to Motoman's method after clocking more than 50 or 100 or 300 kms, it will be of no avail. By then (..300km), the rings would have taken the shape in which they would remain after this. Now better that you stick with the manual.

When a guy changes new piston rings say at 16k or 28k or whatever mileage, simple advice is- ride the new setup as hard as possibly you can, redlining in every gear and keep doing it for around 20 miles if possible..



This is very very important. Simple basics. Warming up is the most important thing that can be done to an engine, old or new, car or bike, good or bad. This single point can can make or break a simple engine.

WOW, unknowingly i did follow Motoman's method. My Bike R15 was purchased to do highway trip as my office was in the other city. The bike as soon as it was bought was doing 100+ as i didn't care if the bike engine would go down because of the warranty ... Funny thing is my bike is still giving me a good mileage of 39+ in city and on highway i am near 46 - 47.

Motoman's method is nothing I'm strictly against this method not at all good for Indian bikes engine he has tried this on big engine sports bike..avoid Motoman's method (Moto tune)..

Guys, I've brought a new Yamaha Fazer some 15 days back. I have been reading different posts about the "burn-in" or "run-in" methods over the internet and had decided to go with the manufacturer's slow-mo method and keep the bike under 40kmph for the first 1000 and under 70kmph for the next 1000...

But now, the problem is, I didnt have the speedometer working as the showroom guys had taken the cable off till the time we go and get the bike registered at RTO. So, i had no way to check the speed and keep it within the limits. Hence, I worked out with the RPMs and ensured that I was under 4000 almost 95% of the times.. and occasionally sprint up to 6000 and dip it back...

I wasnt still sure, if I was doing it right and now after almost 15 days, I tried to check what speed I was on, by taking the reading from another biker running parallel to me.. and to my surprise, I was doing almost 50-55 kmph when the RPM was 4000, and that's how it has always been during past two weeks..

now the questions being :
- during run-in/burn-in period, what is more relevant? speed limit or RPM limit?
- have I done something bad? would it impact the bikes performance in the long run?
- is it something similar to the "hard burn-in" technique?
- what is it that i can do now?

Thanks for listening, hoping to get some insightful replies..

You say you were doing 50-55 @4000k RPM...thts totally normal...for the first 500km you can go upto 4.5k and the next 500 upto 6k
ans you Q's
1.RPM is the one you need
2.I dont see anything wrong that you have done
3.Hard Burn-in?NOPE.
there are more sever techniques of running-in for SBK's...not for such small engines
4.Enjoy!

Thanks for the help Ranjith..

the other question i have is about the gear shift pattern.. I normally up-shift around 3500-4000 rpm and it works out well, but as i have been maintaining rpm to 4000, I always have this doubt while hitting the top gear that is it really essential to shift the gear, when I wouldn't be going any faster or accelerate any more.. can i not stay on the 4th gear and move on.. ? will staying on 4th gear while maintaining 4K rpm would create any negative impact on the engine?

Thanks again.

What can I do?

Hi guys ,
I own Gs150 R april2009 model with 14300 on odo, Due to some manufacture defect ,I got sound from engine and Cam chain, So replaced Bore& piston and camchain under warranty...It now ran 400KM after B&P change ...MY SC engg said run casually ,no need to follow run-in-again(is it true) .All latest bike never seize ....But i follow run-in and want to change oil as 500km reached (i did a 90+ 90km long journey yesterday with varying speed and varying gears,since the route is bad road ,i drive mostly in low gears) , what you suggest Guys
Thanks

So, I'm finally out of the break-in period, and I think I've got it right. The bike is running all smooth and powerful without any dip in the mileage whatsoever.

my break-in strategy was to maintain the RPMs between 4-4.5 k with occasional bumps to 6-6.5 k (only 3-4 times within the whole period). Let the engine warm up, every time u start it by running it on low speeds for the first 2-3 kms and then keep varying the speed within the RPM limits. Try to avoid running the bike with the same RPM for extended periods. Get the engine oil changed within the first few 100 kms itself, do not go for synthetic oil initially.

Give your engine some good exercise during and the break-in and it would be able to sustain the loads later for you. Enjoy!

Engine break-in

Hello,

Recently I came across this link
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

I will be getting my monster 796 next week. After reading that link I am confused about which method to follow. I know for a fact that one of my friend followed the above instruction for his Ninja 250. Problem is there is no way for me to confirm/verify the facts.

Any suggestions appreciated.

thanks,
-Vishwa

Running in An enfield Classic 500

Hi guys,
I finally took the delivery of my C500 .. Got it last week.. been riding in and around the city.. Can someone tell me what the best way to run in my bike is.. and anything else that may require attention.. Thanx in advance.. \m/ ..

Please Help... New Bike!

Hey Frnz !!! I Need your help. My Dad Has Bought me A cool New White Angel Apache RTR ABS. I just wanted a few suggestions regard mentainance of this new bike. Like what Petrol and Engine oil to use.!!!! At how much intervals should i change the oil and all!!!! also how to adjust the clutch plate???? please please help me out !!!