How to care pulsar 220 dtsi during run-in

Hi all, I recently bought a 220 dtsi and it has done 120 Kms on the ODO.
Kindly give me some tips on how to care my bike during run-in period.

Run-in tips for a beginner

Hi,

I just brought home my new CBZ Xtreme 2011 and am pretty excited as its my first ever bike. I've ridden and learnt the basics from my friends though they're aren't perfect. Keeping it short, I am a newbie in terms of the bikes technicalities... all I know is "clutch dheere se chode accelerate karte hue in the first gear and ride it...."

Now, I've gone through several guides and they talk of RPM ranges and all those technicalities and I seriously lack in that area. Though I've a basic understanding of them but not enough to understand how to do things properly.

Can someone help explain the run-in period in layman terms. I know why it is done but a help on "how to" for beginner would be appreciated .

Like what's the max speed i should touch(Not interested in top speed thrills at all. A better performing engine with good mileage is what I need)...the gears to be used frequently and how frequently should i change them.

Also, my gear shifting ain't uniform and sometimes i touch low rpms for 2nd gear (as i conc on gears and forget on accelerator), I'm still getting used to it, so any suggestions on what to avoid during this period.

Thread approved and merged

guys please reply

hi guys please reply..i have done 1500Kms now ...i have clocked a max of 115 kms with a 80 kg pillon.my bike is giving 39-40 mileage..I didnt rip it much post 1k kms except sometimes reaching to 80-85 kmph on 5th gear...

Now i want to change my engine oil to Valvoline 4T premium as i had read in this forum that it suits 220F the best....
please guide me on how should i ride till 2k kms ???I love ripping but i m not...

For what it's worth, here's my take. Those "break-in" sequences from the internet do indeed break in the engine properly. However, the powertrain is not the only thing that gets broken in on a new bike. So, while "moto-tune" and other similar processes will break in the rings and seat the crank bearings on a motor, they will possibly ruin the gearbox and clutch, which run in the same oil as the motor. In addition, by riding hard, you're not going to give the brake pads and brake drums/rotors time to bed in properly, and you'll be putting hard loads on the tires before you've worn all the mold-release compound off of them, which could put you on the pavement. If all that isn't enough, if you don't follow the manufacturer instructions for the break-in period, and the dealership finds out, you run the risk of voiding the warranty during the time when major components are most likely to fail. It may be frustrating, but the best bet overall is to do the break-in per the manual for a new bike. Now, for a re-ring or rebuild, as with Sreerama back there on page 1, then one of the alternates might be a better choice, since the rest of the bike is already broken in.

Also, don't use Synthetic oil before 3000-4000km at least. The regular oil lacks the coating properties of synthetic, and therefore will allow the engine/transmission internals to wear together properly. Once everything is meshing together properly, then switching to synthetic has significant benefits in terms of smoother shifting and dramatically reduced wear. It is also important that you NOT use regular car motor oil. Use bike-specific oil. Bike oil is formulated to work with the wet clutch of (most) bike transmissions. Car motor oil has all kinds of extra lubricant additives that can ruin the holding capability of the clutch plates. Only you Ducati riders might be able to get away with car oil, since you have dry clutches.

Masti, the first thing you should do is learn to use the tachometer on your bike. That's actually more useful than the speedometer. Once you do that, the break-in is as follows: Basically, the break-in process detailed in the manual is a way to let the parts inside the engine "get used" to working together. In order to do that, they have to wear off some metal so they fit together properly. Your manual will say "keep the engine below x rpm for the first 500km" or something like that, and then "keep below Y rpm for the next 500km, followed by saying that you can use full rpm after some specified mileage.

What they want you to do is, while watching that rpm limit, ride your bike as inefficiently as possible (really!). Use all the gears. Accelerate hard (but don't exceed that rpm limit) and do lots of in-traffic riding. Do lots of short rides, like 5-7km, just enough to get the engine hot, and then shut it off and let it cool, then do it again. This kind of riding puts maximum wear on the engine. However, don't exceed the rpm limits for each section of the break-in (to prevent engine parts that aren't properly worn from breaking under strain). What you should *not* do is go on rides where you stay at a steady speed the whole time. If you do have to maintain a specific speed, then vary the gear you're in constantly; for example, if you're stuck at 40kmh, then shift constantly. Do some riding in 1st, then shift up to 4th, then 5th, then 2nd, etc. This will vary the engine speed and load (but don't ever go over that rpm limit in the manual).

Keep track of the odometer, so you know when you can change to the next rpm limit. Once you get past the "break-in" intervals, you can start riding more "normally", and not worry about whether you're riding too long at the same speed.

This will have the side benefit of getting you used to the way your bike performs at different rpms, and will help you to learn how to be in the "right" gear for any situation on the road.

How much time did you take to run-in your bike's engine?

As I sit here running-in a new engine, I cant help but wonder how much time do people usually take to run-in their new bikes?

Is it better to run-in the bike in short trips or a single big one?

I think the best way is by heading to the twistiest

But most of all, I want to know, how long was your bike in the run-in period.

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New Bike running in methods

I dont know what happened to my earlier post (May be it never went through. But if it did, Mods: I request you to delete this one)

There has been a lot of discussion about how to break in new engines.

The owners manual/the service centers say this: Do not rev the engine beyond 5k rpm. Do not accelerate or decelerate suddenly. Change oil after 1000k. and many more things.

Another school of thought is just the opposite: Motomans method: Alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. Change oil after the first run of 50 kms. Check for leaks etc halfway during this run. Basically advising "Red line the engine from the moment its in your hands"

So biking gurus - Please throw your opinions on this.

Query approved and threads merged.

@Shubz - You already know my response; I'll let few Gurus like TV & PSR answer.

Im no expert. But there are couple of things that one can figure out by common sense.

1. Changing oil early: On new engine, this seems a good advice as new engine can have particles from engine fresh out of factory.

2. I have seen how high end motorcycles are produced. Each engine are subjected to stringent tests, redlining them and what not in the factory. Not surprisingly they also costs a bomb.
There is no way my small bike, that are churned out of the production line in tens of thousands, not forgetting some of the most economical machine on the road has been subjected to such treatment. There is no way the manufacturers will spend so much amount of fuel to put every engine through such testing.

In effect a high end motorcycle used by motoman probably have already done some run in from the factory itself.

3. The material and the level of engineering between a high end engine and an economical engine would not have the same standard.

In conclusion. My motorcycle is some of the cheapest motorcycle on the planet, so I figure the manual method is the right one. Except for changing oil very early. Today after doing 23+ k, my engine has zero problem and behave precisely as it should.

Talking of engine doing some run-in at the factory itself. I thought the bores are polished enough (unlike the old engines) and a bit of run-in is done at the just after the assembly line.

So when the bike reaches the end user - he just have to continue from where it was left at the factory - follow whats mentioned in the Owners manual.

While Motoman discounts all that and says - press it hard - not too rash but quite hard so the linings mate well. Filings fall off early - Infuse fresh oil and ride normal.

Btw, the poll suggests only two extreme opposite choice. Either the guy's a genius or a lunatic. I think there should be a middle ground as well. Cause that's where I believe he stands.

Yamaha FZ-16 was my first new bike before that all were second hands. I knew the old story that the new or renewed engine must not be ridden above 40km/hr for first 800kms ODO

But when I bought FZ-16 and the manual said not to exceed 4.5k rpm for first 500 kms and for that I kept the babe in 3.5 to 4k rpm range. A

nd from 500-1000 kms the manual said not to exceed 6k rpm and I kept the babe at 4.5-5.5k rpm range. And after 1000 kms the manual said that you can ride the bike normally and I did it ripping and finding the top whack. Did frequent engine oil changes at 350, 550, 1300, 2300 so on and my bike's ODO now is 2650 and it's cool.

I always try to do full throttle every week just to check out that if she is performing well. Won't ride more than 4k rpm for first 2 kms of each day or after a long gap when the bike is kept idle, say more than 4 hours. When the engine is hot I keep it at 65-80km/hr all the day and the mileage is well touching 40km/hr. Till now my babe is perfectly fine