Oh! so that too goes down...
I will try with the service station.
Thanks buddy..

@ ARNandal

get your carb tuned with a machine and you'll be good to go.
besides for changing your bike from carb to fi, you'll need a FI bike's head running the same bore as your bike, it would have an injector slot.
you then will have to get the injectors and E.C.U, which should fit.
and tuning it will require experts.
you need a very heavy wallet to do this, and to really do this RIGHT, you need an even heavier wallet.

a race engineer can help you in this.
tell me, is it worth ??

@abhijeet080808 & @psr: I was thinking about the same, but i dont have the filter box with me! it will cost another INR500-600 i suppose.
what do u say about switching it to a fuel injection one, hope thats possible... It would be value for money, how much will it cost?

First return your bike to stock condition,and then do a tune up with a CO machine at BASS...The CDI does not fail easily,unless it is tampered with.
You may check your timing chain for slack,since you complain of hearing chain noise.Check your valve clearance setting and set it right.

I may sound a bit harsh but, what is the problem going back to stock? Since neither you nor your mech has the knowhow to fit a K&N properly, going back to stock seems to be the most logical way to me. What your are doing now is slowly destroying your bike.

And forgot to mention after a 2-3min ride i hear a sound from the engine, something similar to a loose chain touching something...
Oh! wotz happening to my bike?... i used to take good care of it!

I dint understand this phrase.. and whats a rev limiter?

and yes will take it to the svc tomorow itself if itz open

@ ARNandan

the heavier wheel does affect everything from low end torque to high speed power.

if you are using the same stock plugs (champion is suppose) from day 1, replace them both immediately.
i believe your revv limiter may be acting up at 8k itself.

do 1 thing, go to bajaj SVC, ask the guys to tune your carb with a CO machine, will cost you 100 bucks max, this will rule out your tuning problem, be ready to face an argument, but its worth the effort.

lets get the tuning right first, and then calculate as why the bike isn't revving past 8000 rpm.

Happy X'mas to all...

The problem is my home is located in an isolated place and no friends nearby.... So no chance of arranging a camera. and even if i got one i can remove only LH sp, i dont have a tool that can remove the RH one. !!! Wot to do..
I have a BASS nearby but felt it unreliable... let me try once more and let them inspect the plug and tell me. if i need to replace it am planning to go for the Iriduim, how much will it cost.

@all: Wot about switching my bike to fuel injection, is that possible and reliable. how much will it cost? Itz more efficient than carb in every aspect right...

Actually I meant how to do we know from the feel of the bike the VC is wrong, not how to check it .
And how does combustion take place above 9000rpm it one sp gets cut off at this point?

The spark plug pics will be more helpful.. Please post pics here. We will judge it for you. And yes the burning smell and overheating is probably due to the shitty Bajaj oil. Try changing the oil to Valvoline 4TPremium 20W50 and readjust chain tension and make sure the rear wheel is aligned properly.
This should take care of the vibrations and overheating. As for the re jetting is concerned, we cannot say until we see the pics.

For checking also, you need to open inspection caps and check it at combustion TDC. But believe me, its really hectic to insert those guage strips in the gap to inspect. Easier option is to set it.

Coming to spark plus, LH spark plug fires at 350 rpm and then continues to

give spark till at 9000 rpm of engine. The spark is cut off from LH plug at 9000 rpm to protect engine from excessively high speed.
RH spark plug gives spark at 750 rpm and then continues to give till 6000 rpm of engine. If engine rpm exceeds 6000 rpm then RH plug is cut off.

I would suggest you to change the plugs if they are giving you the service since you bought the bike. Cos worn points will never give spark quickly.

my bike's running rich. with stock filter and main jet i had d top speed problem which many BASS could not solve...
And i have never felt a mileage difference before n after fittng the K&N (may be a max of 1 or 2kmpl, but that too not sure.) It gave me a max of 56kmpl before n still gives me the same at same riding conditions. the only differnce i hav seen is, it used to give me 60kmph at 5000rpm now its 68kmph.
@all: Forgot to mention i had switched to Michelin 120/90 rear tyre along with the K&N. Before i was running on sticky tvs eurogrip 110/80 . so can tat be d reason for 8kmph diffrnc?

And today i checked the spark plug and found black deposits. not white ones..! So mixture might be rich, so wot abt oveheating, burning smell and (DTSi e oil???), the bursts at 1/4th throttle..lean mixture does that right..?
I tried riding with one spark plug removed. The right one removed dint mak a diffrnc but the left one removed it started but refused to move as if starving from fuel. the two spark plugs are mounted on the cylinder head in the same manner right? So how can left removed create such a condition?

@jd666: I dont have the airbox with me...!

@aargee: as pavanchirmade say pilot jets are for slow speeds and main jets controls speeds above 8000rpm. I dont know about the present needle position, i have never opened my carb all by myself. I will remove it, how should the needle position be? I dont want to risk with the tuning, i have never tried it, so that will be my last step if nothing works.

@nox2505: how can we know when the valve clearance is wrong?
@nox2505 n @pavanchiramde: Some of our riders here use d karizma jet, but no1 has mentioned the same prob! like "abhichotu.abhi" n "kb100" i suppose

@abhichotu.abhi n @kb100: am I right...