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Worried and Fed up upjetting my p180ug3 with K&N Air filter

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  • ARNandal
    replied
    Originally posted by shubhanker View Post
    Change main jet to stock and upgrade the pilot jet..then tune with the fuel screw by closing it completely and opening it till the point of max idling rpm is met. Main jet is too rich hence bike refuses to go above 8k, pilot has become 'lean' due to freer flowing air filter, hence the overheating and knocking and what not..
    I had tried tuning with my stock main and pilot jets..... but to no avail.. !

    Please check this thread and advice, http://**********.in/fit-kn-filter-rejet-carburetor/
    here the tuner mentions Main jet to be 125.
    Last edited by ARNandal; 01-06-2011, 10:57 PM.

    Leave a comment:

  • shubhanker
    replied
    Change main jet to stock and upgrade the pilot jet..then tune with the fuel screw by closing it completely and opening it till the point of max idling rpm is met. Main jet is too rich hence bike refuses to go above 8k, pilot has become 'lean' due to freer flowing air filter, hence the overheating and knocking and what not..

    Leave a comment:

  • ARNandal
    replied
    O ... tat way..
    thank you....
    jus going out to try tuning once more....

    Leave a comment:

  • kb100
    replied
    Originally posted by ARNandal View Post
    @kb100: Ya... but whats the size? I heard something like 32mm carb a 28mm one...
    am not sure about the figures...
    the carb dia is 29mm hence bs29

    Leave a comment:

  • ARNandal
    replied
    @kb100: Ya... but whats the size? I heard something like 32mm carb a 28mm one...
    am not sure about the figures...

    @psr n @all: I did the tuning work there are sputters, still the same and it doesnt cross 8000rpm, but feel that it now scores 300rpm more. Didnt observe much, as it was at night and higway was a bit crowded.!
    Sure that AFR is rich, but what about the heating issue and the burning smell at just 2minutes of idling. Is it the oil? i replaced it 680kms before and i suppose it should be replaced every 1500kms and i rember a local mech mentioning it to be due for every 500km?

    Leave a comment:

  • kb100
    replied
    Originally posted by ARNandal View Post

    And what size carburetor does my bike run with? i didnt find it printed anywhere in the whole set.
    p180 ug3s run on mikuni bs29 carbs

    Leave a comment:

  • ARNandal
    replied
    Originally posted by psr View Post
    If the distance between the reed switch and magnet becomes more the reed switch will not activate and will be stuck in single CDI timing mode.
    How will it affect the performance?

    And what size carburetor does my bike run with? i didnt find it printed anywhere in the whole set.
    Last edited by ARNandal; 01-01-2011, 06:34 PM.

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  • psr
    replied
    Originally posted by ARNandal View Post
    @psr: I did the tuning just now, the same way as you said. but it was already near 2.5 turns from "not full tight" so i tried half of a quarter turn more towards anticlockwise direction. but couldnt have a proper ride and check. Will just a 0.5 differnce make so much difference as to cross 8000rpm smoothly?

    When i checked the distance between the magnet and the 2 metal piece which connects the reed switch was less than 2.5mm, so i changed it (it should be between 2.5-3mm now). And what will happen if it is more than 3 or 4mm?
    Will update about the ride and post soon.
    It is all about getting the AFR right.With free breathing air filter the stock design,and setting,engine tune ,...everything is now different.So it is a trial and error setting you need to do now,to get it right.
    If the distance between the reed switch and magnet becomes more the reed switch will not activate and will be stuck in single CDI timing mode.

    Leave a comment:

  • ARNandal
    replied
    @psr: I did the tuning just now, the same way as you said. but it was already near 2.5 turns from "not full tight" so i tried half of a quarter turn more towards anticlockwise direction. but couldnt have a proper ride and check. Will just a 0.5 differnce make so much difference as to cross 8000rpm smoothly?

    When i checked the distance between the magnet and the 2 metal piece which connects the reed switch was less than 2.5mm, so i changed it (it should be between 2.5-3mm now). And what will happen if it is more than 3 or 4mm?
    Will update about the ride and post soon.

    Leave a comment:

  • psr
    replied
    Originally posted by ARNandal View Post
    Thanks a lot psr...
    Will try doing it and post what i observed.
    And can you please show me where the reed switch is in that image..
    Image shown at full throttle position to facilitate viewing Reed switch and magnet.Otherwise reed switch and magnet will be in line at "0" throttle.

    Leave a comment:

  • ARNandal
    replied
    Thanks a lot psr...
    Will try doing it and post what i observed.
    And can you please show me where the reed switch is in that image..

    Leave a comment:

  • psr
    replied
    Originally posted by ARNandal View Post
    Nice to hear from you....
    Ya will try the reed switch...

    But gettng back to stock i will have to buy it....though, thinking about it...
    K&N passes more dirt than normal filters,hence is not recommended for normal street use and for everyday rider who expects his bike to last.
    Since you have problems in getting the stock air filter back in place suggest do the following with K&N in place.
    1.Turn the AFR screw in GENTLY CLOCKWISE TILL IT STOPS. Do not OVERTIGHTEN.Now unscrew turning anti clockwise by two and a half turns.Start the bike and ride it till it warms up,and observe performance....If it sputters while acceleration ,it is on the rich side,You should then turn the AFR screw clockwise to lean the mix.If it makes hollow sound but does not accelerate well ,then AFR is lean.You should turn the AFR screw anti clockwise to make it rich. You can take the spark plug out and check after at least 30 Kms ride.
    If the center electrode is white your AFR is lean if it is black,-Rich and if it is Chocolate Brown correct AFR.
    AFR is Air Fuel Ratio.
    Alternatively you can do the tuning with a CO checking machine at B A S S .
    Last edited by psr; 12-30-2010, 11:20 PM.

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  • ARNandal
    replied
    Nice to hear from you....
    Ya will try the reed switch...

    But gettng back to stock i will have to buy it....though, thinking about it...

    Leave a comment:

  • PRANAV D
    replied
    Revert back to stock first, trying to troubleshoot with a modification is difficult. Get the stock air filter, stock air box (did u leave it at a mechanic's place when u fitted the K&N?)
    Find a good mechanic (attend GTGs of your city to get info on this or contact senior members of Chennai xbhp), tune the bike with stock air filter and stock jets ofcourse. Calculate the fuel efficiency, check whether its in the normal range.
    Then troubleshoot, i think its an electrical issue but anyway members like "psr" and "nanotechnology" are already posting in this thread who are really knowledgeable!! So keep in touch with these guys!

    P.S. There is something called as "reed switch" on the carb. I had read about it here on xbhp itself. Could that be the problem? check it out.
    Last edited by PRANAV D; 12-29-2010, 02:51 AM.

    Leave a comment:

  • ARNandal
    replied
    Today i took it to the nearby service station a small one, the technician there test rode it. and said he didnt find a problem with the tuning and itz alwayz a probability for tuning the carb.. There is no CO tuning machine nor they can do a compression test.
    So took it back. and when asked he said he didnt find any problem with the valve clearance nor the timing chain.
    Need to find some other reliable ST, what about giving my bike to the castrol Bike zone guys... i think they demand a prior booking.
    I dont want to try it myself since i find there are more problems than just tuning.

    Is there any reliable BASS or mechanic in chennai. Please help!

    Leave a comment:

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