i discussed the mods.....but instead i felt that it will decrease the reliability of my bike.....that is one thing i can't compromise on.....i travel alone most of the times on highways and through jungles....so...i restored to original condition by reboring to 0.5 mm higher size and used a bigger piston......and i got some (not very much but definitely a little bit) increase in performance....

also i did not wish to loose my kick starter and the guzon pin size of 180 piston is different than that of 150 so i had to change teh connecting rod too.

i will be waiting to see how your mod turns out......and maybe after another 10000 kms or so i will go for mods....as at that time i will purchase a new bike .....so this one will be up for all kind of mods....and that will be within a year or so.

thanks a lot

psr kb100....

and the great nano cool...( )
that was a great... all doubts solved... now am confident of going for one...
really informative...

u guys were very very much helpful... n psr's image.....

thanks a lot...... a lot..

answers are in bold, good work nano...

Arnandal, Nano had done it..... I haven't .....The Great one has spoken ....and I am tongue and finger tied..

@ ARNandal

see, its not something which needs great amount of technical expertise to undergo.
all these things are straight fit, and you just need to find a good lathe guy who will work on your head, and ANY MECH can bolt these things on your bike.

When i did this, the mech was doing this for the first time, and it completed in just 1 day.
Its been over 6000 kms with ups and downs so finally everything is settled.
so i know where i went wrong, what needs to be taken care of first.

Regarding reliability, YES it does go down a bit, you won't feel that the bike is as bulletproof as it was before, but I've ridden it hard (average around 80) for 478 kms in a single day and it didn't show any sign of problems.

now let me answers your questions.
Rather not go for a new con-rod.
do not mess up with the stroke length, if you do so, your engine block height will increase and it may not fit in the current chassis mount.
secondly even if you do so, you will end up changing the con-rod and maybe the crank too, these things will cost you a fortune.

a cam is the device which opens and closes your inlet and exhaust valves.
going for a longer duration cam will keep the inlet and exhaust valves open for a longer duration, since it costs you just 500 bucks, go for it.
but the power gained by doing it will be negligible compared to the extra CC's produced.

You won't need to change the crank bearings as your current bearings will be fine, either ways if with increased compression they get damaged, even the newer ones will get damaged.
The only resource you have is to decrease compression and make it till stock.
thus your crank will not have to bear any increased load or compression.
it will long till your bike's health.

That's why i said, find a good lathe guy, what he will do is, match the size of your combustion chamber to that of the new bore, thus your compression will decrease (will reach to stock compression) and your load on the crank bearings will also be as good as stock.

Once these things are done correctly, you are good to go.

Valve recesses are the grooves on the piston head made to allow valve to seat even if the timing is messed up.
on a technical basis, the VALVES NEVER TOUCH the piston, but if the timing is mismatched they CAN, so these grooves are made.

this is one of joel's modded 165cc r15 piston, notice the grooves on the piston, those are valve recesses.




but i doubt weather pulsar series have these made or not.

Pulsar generally has a flat piston (220 definitely has a flat one) so it your current piston has these, and the newer 200's piston doesn't have then you'll have to make them, again from the lathe guy.

i hope all this info really helped.

@ PSR

Did i go wrong anywhere your majesty ??

@prince: am starving for performance... i use it more on the highways for native rides...
and ofcourse will give only to experts....

did u the same mods am planning now, if i remember right...?
please tel me d issues you are facing, wot all mod did u do?

seriously speaking....i am against modifications...........since it significantly reduces your bikes reliability.....do it if your purpose is to win on a race track and does not want reliability........otherwise....save money, sell your old bike and purchase a bike of your choice......you will be more happy.

still if you really want to do mods.........get it done from a mechanic as knowledgable as joel...........which is hard to find........

I found this on 'ehow'..
Function
A camshaft's main job is to open and close the engine valves, via the lifters and rocker arms, in time to the piston's position in the cylinder. This causes the engine to take in air, burn fuel and expel exhaust gasses.
Operation
The camshaft spins at twice the speed of the crankshaft. The camshaft's lobes push on the lifters and pushrods, which move the rocker arms and open the valves.


So how does the camshaft work in co-ordination with the pistons position?
which type of camshaft is used in pulsars?

and between one more doubt, if after the mod how to set the valve clearance, is it to be asked to set to the 200's settings, figures please...

Thanks a lot buddy.... i now have an idea of what it is going to be....except for those above doubts.... infact a long set of questions B)
Thanks a lot...
and please tell me how much can the cam tensioner cost.

@nano n @psr... please bear with my ignorance....

psr..thanks a lot for that image... i can now guess whats inside, what all will be moded n can doubt about the result...

Arnandal here is a Pulsar engine cross section view which is self explanatory.

De-carbing isn't necessary if your undergoing a new bore (which also means block/piston kit of any other bike) rest of the things can be done in minutes, later too.

Doesn't seem necessary, its better to change all the plates all the time, the extra plate will tend to remain dry.
If want, change the entire clutch bell to a 220's (if installable), as these mods put a lot of pressure on the clutch.

Fair enough, but why a new air filter ? don't you have a K&N ?

This can be installed if the stroke length is same, and performance will definitely increase (i am already running such a setup), and yes, it will need a very good mech, a very good Lathe guy and a very good running-in too.

There's no such thing as shaving the CAM buddy, there's a terminology "Shaving the head" which isn't necessary too.

You won't be able to install (or happier to install) a 220's block/piston kit as the stroke length doesn't match, so rather go for 200's, it will give you a 200cc bike.

Yes, it will be enough, no need to alter further.

Nothing like that, run the stock sprocket set first, if in case you feel that you need a bit more top speed, by sacrificing the acceleration, only then go ahead with sprocketing.

I suggest, stay away from service centres, just find a good mech, and a great lathe guy, all these can be done in a day.



To sum it up in short, I'll tell you what the procedure is.
You will need a Block piston kit of p200's (which is exactly the same as your's apart from the bore size) and will need its cam chain tensioner too (current one won't fit maybe) rest all the things are optional in the buy list. (as you already are running bigger jet and BS29)

you can get this installed by any mech, meanwhile you will need to take your cylinder head to the lathe guy and ask them to increase the size of your combustion chamber (widen the head area) and match it to the new bore size.

Maybe you will need to grind the valve recesses too (on the piston) if they are already present (i doubt weather its there in pulsar series) to match it again with the old head.

once done, you should be happy, just don't let the bike knock, if it does so it means the compression is too high for the crank to handle, and this will spoil your crank's bearings, which is a major damage.

i hope the thing is clarified.

Hey buddies... where are you... please advise...

please tell me about adjusting the timing chain too...
is this what we call engine tuning - timing chain adjustment, tappet adjustment..

so the new mod would demand engine tuning.. both the cam shaft and block piston mod ?
so what would be the figures, how should i guide the mechanic?

And will i need to change the Cylinder Head & Cover set assembly and valve set assembly? would it be a wasted mod if i dont go for it.?

@jd666: my bike is fine and good except for the clutch plates and tappet adjustments...
i needed some more power and performance, and heard that the mods that am looking forward to doesnt affect reliability... is there anything am not known about...

@psr: so going for a 220/200 block piston is all the same...
am not planning to replace the bore... itz going to be stock, just planning to replace block piston.
one more doubt, i couldnt understand this, wot are all the adjustments i need to do for good fitting of 220's block piston, i heard that some adjustments need to be done on the cam or somewhere or an extra piece suitably designed needed to joined with the cam... i would be replacing it after the camshaft mod.
"P 200 and P 220 bore and piston are the same..= 67mm" you meant block instead of bore right.. i think bore is said in reference to the diameter part of the cylinder..am i right?

Thanks a lot for the advice..

EDIT: Will accommodating the new block piston need a change in the current bore size?

Answers in bold