how to check engine timing.

Mine is p180 so 40Kmpl is normal you should get 50~55Kmpl at least

ya, one reason can be my riding habit of high speed, but still its t low..........don't know the reason...........suggest something.

No reason. it needed 8 full turns to run right giving a mileage of 46 44 and 47 on the three mileage tests. acceleration too was as good as any other p180. opened up the carb and everything looks ok

ok...........

can someone tell me how to check engine timing.

open your
1.crankshaft hole cap
2. Timing hole cap
now look from the crankshaft hole there will be an INDEX MARK (refer owner manual)
aling that mark with the other mark which is on flywheel.
If piston is at TDC & valves are closed when index mark is aligned with flywheel mark then your timing is stock
<Posted via Mobile>

To check if the timing is correct in a Pulsar

Open the crank cover cap (black cap on rotor cover) with a large screwdriver.

Now use a (14mm) socket / T spanner to rotate the crankshaft. Looking through the observation window on the rotor cover, you will see a 'T' on the rotor. When this T aligns with the pointer on the rotor cover, it indicates that the piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC). Rotate till you get TDC at the end of compression stroke. To do this, rotate till you feel resistance. Then, just as you pass the T on the rotor, the spanner will accelerate on its own. The resistance was because you were compressing, and when you passed TDC, the pressure pushed the piston down the exhaust stroke, thus the spanner spinning on its own.

It is important to be at TDC at the end of compression stroke.

Now comes the messy part. ie The part you will read, and decide not to perform this check. (i just realised this)

You will have to remove your fuel tank, then lift the cylinder head cover after removing the 10 bolts holding it. Here you break the gasket. So you need the clean the surface and apply fresh gasket maker before you close it back up. Undoing the bolts will also loosen the cylinder head and cylinder causing oil to leak till you set it all back. Hence you will to need top up. If you choose to keep the engine on the frame itself while doing this, things get a bit more complicated.

So if you are interested in doing this, post a reply and i will detail the remaining procedure.

If the timing was never changed by anyone then no need to check it again.
And yes prince you need to get atleast one new spark plug everytime you do a plug chop

Mechs can very well screw up while re-assembling the head. Especialy non ASC mechs, who usually do not know their way around a pulsar engine. Even ASC mech screw up because they mostly attempt to do head work keeping the engine mounted on the frame leading to a very cramped workspace. (the frame comes in the way)

EDIT: I just had an epiphany. I would like to make it clear that, i am, in no way, implying that incorrect timing is the cause of the overheating. I saw the OP ask for the procedure and answered. Hope i have not misled anyone.

got my bike services today, timing was ok. clicked the snaps of spark plugs, will post them tommorrow, carb screw is now at 5.75 turns, earlier it was 4.5 turns......................lets see for a few days..................

Hehe... no worries mate!
I just added my reply to avoid unnecessary work

right now, i am on an ashtvinayak + shirdi tour with my better half........bike is performing well...............not much overheating over long distances...........i think my bike was running a bit lean earlier, on the way to ranjangaon........rear mudgaurd broke.....will post in detail later.

you need so much time to post a detailed picture but you will write and get confused pages after pages.cool down mr prince.ok let me start from the start.

if you ride a p 150 on highway over 80kmph plus speed the efficiency of fuel drops down a bit-NORMAL,.

use a bit more engine oil if you use to change of engine oil after 2500kms,pulsars are known to have a DRINKING PROBLEM,i am using 1lit 150ml engine oil for past 3 years,engine stays tiptop,also check for regular topup,just giving you an idea my ride drinks oil 300 ml every 1000 kms,but no drop of pick up no seeping oil from below,no white smoke,its from the very first day,just top up,it stays cool.

if you ride more on highways your bike should run a bit more on the rich side.TOO RICH FUEL CAUSE ENGINE HEATING,but changing only the afr screw will not make the bike dramatically hi performatic or dramatic efficent.it s only the initial few part of the rev range that the afr controls.you should tune your bike properly then loose the afr screw .i used 8-9 turns,it almost in the verge of falling as i was touring a bit more.i use ngk irrdium these days which frankly will be a bit help if the running is more specially if the run is more,but frankly not a dramatic change.

pulsars engine heat up a bit more then other made engines.if you are getting smell then check specially for any lube oil from chain or engine.get the wash specially the under body done properly.

after doing a highway dash the engine will evaporate your hand if you touch it also,and spitting is a bit disgraceful in my opinion..

a rewinding putting more load and getting the engine heated up is like riding alone as putting a pillion will overheat the engine.its not the cause.

20w40 is recommended by the bajaj manual so i suggest you use that oil only but some gurus says using a bit thick oil as w 50 helps to drop the heat in extrem conditions.

i seriously suggest not to change any jet sizes if you dont have the proper knowledgeable expert at your disposal.

this is the picture of my spark plugs(ngK iridium after 2000 kms).see the color,its a bit rich.but the engine feels happy.no knock,no hiccup,no hesitation,nothing.let me clear I AM NOT SAYING GET NGK IRIDIUM OR ANYTHING,BUT IN LONG TERM AND HI HIGHWAY RUN IT HELPS A BIT,BUT THE STOCK PLUGS ARE ALSO VERY PERFECT,JUST THE GAP AND CLEANLINESS IS NEEDED.

^ 8-9 turns? how much mileage do you get?

this no_of_turns varies from bike to bike?

in the manual it is said to have 2-3 turns.... mine(180) at 3.75 turns.... confused.

I know its a very silly question but have you done any modification which prevents free airflow to your engine . (to the outside fins)