How on earth can u tune the bike after removing the carb from bike?

Can you post a image of your carb from left side. Preferably a better image.

There is only 1 air/fuel adjustment screw that is for idle speed aka to adjust pilot jet.

The other one is needle jet which generally we don't have to bother unless something is really screwed.

Main Jet - no adjustments.

First of all, there was no need to get the carb cleaned.

picture from battery side:

there's no way i can reach through here.. carb's afr screw is behind the battery..
picture from carb side:

there's only idle screw & drain screw..
and sorry i cant take any pic of carb from opposite side (without removing) its too cramped & compact

had a good chat with two known mechanics (out of HASS) one said,"stunner cant be tuned by afr screw one need to fiddle with the jets" another said, "there's no problem in bike, heat is because of summer.." and HASS guy told me running lean is good for engine, it wont cause carbon deposits.. and fiddling with carb is not good!

answers above

To remove the carb from the bike, you can follow the steps given below. I have to warn you that I don't really have much knowledge about bikes, so if you have to remove the carb, follow proper safety procedures. There will be petrol coming out from the carb's float bowl and the fuel supply hose which could be dangerous if not handled properly. In any case, here are the instructions:

1. Turn the fuel petcock to the 'Off' position so that no fuel flows to the carb.
2. Keep a container at the end of the hose that is connected to the bottom of the carb. Open the fuel drain bolt in the carb so that all the fuel in the float bowl is drained out into the container.
3. On either side of the carb, you will find rubber pipes. One side is connected to the air cleaner box and the other to the engine's intake. There are screws on those pipes which hold them in place. You have to loosen those screws. Now, you will be able to rotate the carb a bit. You might be able to access the AFR screw now. If not, you'll have to remove the carb.
4. There are two hoses at the back of the carb. You have to remove both of them. One is the fuel supply hose and the other is a hose that goes up over the air cleaner box. Remember where they are connected.
5. Now, you have to use some amount of force to take the carb out. If you don't have enough space to remove the carb, you can remove the bolts connecting the air cleaner box to the frame.
6. To put the carb back on, reverse the procedure and make sure that everything is connected back tightly and the same way the connections were before. A loose fuel supply hose or a loose drain bolt will surely be dangerous.

thanks for all these steps, man. helped a lot. and great idea about loosening the carb for tunning.. never thought that way (silly me,hehe)
But you didn't stated, to where i should turn the AFR screw.. clockwise or counter-clock?
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Hey, no problems man. As for the AFR screw, since it is located closer to the engine, it must be directly controlling the amount of fuel (as opposed the air). So, turning it clockwise (i.e. closing) should give you a leaner mixture and turning it counter-clockwise (i.e. opening) should give you a richer mixture because the fuel will have more space to flow.

Again, I have to say that this is just theoretical information. Try it at your own risk and hope that nothing goes wrong It could be better if some mechanic does it in front of you for the first time as princesirohi had said. Also, are you certain that the issue of the oil being burnt is related to the air/fuel ratio?

Guys, tuned the carb by removing it.. (guess I'm the 1st who did that)
it was set at 3.5 turns, now its 4.5 now Bike can be ridden as low as 20kmph without knocking in 5th gear..
Will post picture of spark plug tomorrow.
BTW, wanted to know the stock position of AFR Screw..

Thats great to hear I don't know the stock position of the AFR screw though. If no one else knows, I'll have to take out my carb and let you know about it.

Did the engine over heating problem go away after this change?

yeah, I think overheating problem is kinda solved.. because after 20km of riding I can touch the oil sump for 2 seconds.
here are the pics of spark plug (with different picture mode)



I think spark plugs are saying "mix is lean", But AFR is on the richer side.. I know this because bike's response is restored, exhaust smells pungent at idle, silencer emits beaty kinda sound at full throttle, whatever the RPM(I like that)..
I'm confused, need suggestions..

Come on guys, I need help..
Spark plug still looks the same, mileage is still same as it was with the lean mix.. i.e. 40kmpl (approx).
Earlier it was 45kmpl with the factory setting!
I think mechanic has done some kind of modifications to the jets..
Help, i feel screwed..!
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I can't say what the mechanic has done. Someone more knowledgeable can probably help you out in this regard. But I'll let you know the AFR screw position on my bike after a couple of days. Sorry man, I can't help out much more than that.

dont be sorry man, you've been great help all this time....
And waiting for knowledgeable persons to pour in their suggestions....
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Usually this screw is different in colour,In yamaha it is gold in colour.Though more pics will be good as can't see the screw in above 2.

there ain't any AFR screw in those 2 pics, its on the opposite side of the picture.. Its bronze in color.. It's got "+" type of "khacha" to screw or unscrew it..

ANOTHER UPDATE:
opened the carb and fuel jets, there seems no problem or change, though dirty so cleaned it.
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