Query approved

Answer to your querries:
1. If the oil leak is from upper side of head (Near Head cover) Then Head cover packing needs to be replaced. If its from anywhere else, go to SVC ASAP.

2. 11k !!! Never RedLine (If you need bike in good condition) !!

3. Check if carb is getting enough air to breath via Air Filter box.

4. NEVER mess with taped, Go to SVC and get Taped set to company stated distance.

5. Low Mileage maybe becaused you taped tightened

6. I have less knowledge about tires .

7. I think K&N won't have caused any problem.

1.check ur engine valve align properly
2.check regular d level of engine oil,,,after 100 kms..if its goin too low pls consult ur mechanic.
3.check ur jet position,,either it is running on lean or rich mixture,,,,it effects ur mileage on various speeds....

Fitting K&N would have leaned out your AFR,and to compensate the AFR must have been made rich.Now that you have the stock box the AFR must be made lean...First of all ensure your patch up is not leading to air leaks in the air box..better still get a new one and fix in place.
The AFR must be adjusted for stock which I think is 2 full 360 degrees turn from fully clockwise tight condition...visit the RTR180 thread in the "owners experience" forum and it is full of helpful suggestions.
Your engine bogging down at higher RPM could be due to rich AFR which is evident from the lower FE, as also due to a tighter valve(tappet) clearance setting.. It may also be due to worn piston rings since you had been running the bike at higher RPM most of the time..
Do a compression test and if it is ok then check and adjust the AFR..if it is not then you may have to check and adjust tappet clearance to stock, and if still the compression is poor suspect valve seating and piston(and bore) ring wear.

Its getting impossible here for any of the mechanics to set the AFR all have tried their best even the SVC guys have been unsuccesfull....I got my bike checked at the SVC...they said its Due to Damaged valve sealing and piston rings......when i enquired abt the piston rings they said....they can only give a new bore kit tht too in 15 days minimum....so out of discontentment i ordered the BIG BORE KIT FROM JOEL.....the kit will reach me in next 2-3 days.....as per joel.....and now i will get my bike's head opened at the SVC during the change of bore kit and will check for the valve sealing and valves....but the SVC guy said tht as u have ordered the bore kit ...then plzz get along the timing chain also as it gets damaged once the head is opened.....Now my questions are

1.Cost of new filter box
2.Rear tyre(im nt at all worried abt the grip i just want performance as of now)
mention the size and make plzz
3.Which engine oil to use with the new bore kit and how many kms to run in safely
4.Does the larger rear tyre size decreases mileage coz i dnt knw abt it buyt i surely decreases acceleration
5.Wht shld be the exact Afr setting noe

Most of your queries have been answered by Psr sir.I had told you before K&N does more bad than good,the 'jetting and making mixture rich' is all trial and error method.Good that now you had reverted to stock filter.First of all,get the new airfilter box,donno the price.And it seems that the exhaust valve might be having less clearance.Set the valve clearance 0.06mm(inlet) and 0.08mm(exhaust), only, when the engine is cold.
Clutch plates changed at 7k!Seems you do a lot of burnouts,stunting :-P
1)For the rear tyre,you can switch to MRF Zapper C 110/80 17''(Dazzlers rear tyre),gives descent grip in dry and wet conditions.Cost around Rs.2500 here,check at your place.
2)Timing chain getting damaged once the head is opened is news to me.Psr sir please shed light on this.
3)Rotate the AFR screw at 2.5 full turns for optimum setting.
4)For the running in with the new bore,use Shell AX-5 mineral oil 20W40,its a very good oil,gels well with RTRs or else Elf moto4 20W40 gold will do.Both cost around Rs.220.

Timing chain will not get damaged easily..that too when the head is opened,unless the mechanic plans on opening the head with a Crow bar.
If the bike had not seen timely change of oil or maintaining enough oil in engine then the timing chain and a whole lot of other parts will go bad.

Ya ohke i will get a new air filter box asap......and yes k&n has f****ed my bike totally.....i dont have much idea about the valve clearance thing so how will i measure the distance once the head is opened...??

Clutch plates were damaged at rit 2.5 k....i had asked for it when i had run 3k nd at the time i was changing to k&n etc...though i didnt have the idea tht burnouts damage clutch plates i just thought the tyre will go....tht time i was a total noob out of which i did the k&N thing...

Mrf tyre for dazzlers are not available here and even the mrf orignal dealer says tht its has stopped manufacturing he just says either a 120/80 or a 100/90 for 17 rim will be available ....though i could fine one mrf zapper q with 110/90 but it was a 18 rim size my frend uses it on his 2009 apache efi.....The options availalbe are
1.100/90-17 mrf
2.100/90-17 Ceat
3.130/80-17 pirelli (WAY TOO COSTLY FOR A STUNTER)
4.120/80-17 MRF CEAT AND DUNLOP


When i had talked to the tvs guy i told him tht i ordered a bore kit from somewhere and what else shld i get as nothing is available in my city everything is to be brought from chandigarh...so he told u get valve sealing, valves and timing chain as it gets damaged after opening the head

Ohke and about the oil...sorry but neither gulf nor shell is available here the brands availalbe here are
1.YAMAHALUBE(20w40, 15W50 semi synth and others too)
2.Castrol Activ and castrol power 1 semi synth
3.Valvoline 20w50 semi synth
4.I think ELF is available will have to confirm
5.Veedol Fully synth ( SAW ONLY 1 BOTTLE AT THE TVS SVC)

Sir the bike has been treated with engine oil as follows
1. TVS tru 4 for 500 kms then serviced and oil changed run another 600 kms on it
2. Used castrol Power 1at 1100 kms on odo and kept for the next 1400 kms...when i put in this oil the problem of overheating had begun
3.At the second service oil again changed to TVS TRU4 for next 2000 kms
4 On the third service i had given the bike for a clutch plate change along with service(HAD TO LEAVE THE BIKE AT SVC).....they charged me 1150 for tht but the very next day i felt something wrong and took the bike to a local mech....he checked the oil and it was the old oil which my bike had been runin earlier and i got it drained i saw and smele tht the oil was totally burnt and was pitch black...thereafter got valvoline 20w50 on my bike as had no other option then
5.At the third service i got front +rear disc pads + sensor(under waranty) and front wheel bearing changed and used YAMAHALUBE 15W50.....
6. When i took it the next week to one more local mechanic who is a known frend of mine showed me tht there was no clutch plate change as the whole thing was burnt...he changed the clutch plates and i had no other option than using yamahalube 20w40 ..nd the total cost was 850 with the oil...
After which i started facing problems like oil leak, afr mixture and low speed , mileage etc actually the low speed and mileage was ealier too but the other things made it noticable then


REgarding the timing chain...i asked the tvs guy he said it gets damaged when they open the engine head....and as i have to get parts from chandigarh so i dont want any lack of parts so plzz tell em wht to do as my bike has just run 7k kms and valves _cealing and other stuff gone...

Dont use 'Crap'tol oil.Stick to mineral oils(20W40) for the running-in period.Either go for Yamalube 20W40 or Elf moto 4 gold 20W40.

Ohke i will stick to the yamahalube 20w40 for the first 5000 kms atleast and then will shift to Yamahalube 15w50 semi synth...

nd one more ques i have read on xbhp tht fully-synth oil is not recommended for RTR's as it causes too much clutch slippage is it true

It is better to stick to Mineral oil which willnot leak or suffer heat stress breakdown..Semi Synth and Fully Synth may be avoided in Indian made engines with High revving and higher operating temperature.
Clutch slippage will not occur if you use any JASO MA2 certified oil.
Synthetic oils contain molecules of smaller dimension than found in Mineral oil.This means, even through very minor gaps in oil seal,gaskets,and piston ring to bore gaps the oil can get through and cause oil leakage,and oil consumption problem. In the same place Mieral Oils with larger molecules will seemingly perform better without leak or consumption.

Surely will follow dat....thank u sir

First big issue you did is you told the service center you did experiment with K&N, to TVS which is already good in screwing customers and taking them for a ride with the pathetic services.

Similiar issue was faced by one more friend in pune, where he cut the stock filter box and installed the K&N filter and was happy for some time, but than initial he had the same hiccups you have mentioned and finally after some time his engine was seized. So he got hold of a Apache RTR 180 from somewhere removed the entire air filter and fitted the stock one, in such a way that none knows that it was cut and replaced and he claimed the warranty.

Now the culprit here was when he cut the stock filter to replace the K&N filter a small piece of the stock filter stayed inside and it blocked the air flow and gave same issues which due to the stock filter the service center accepted and replaced all things for free.

By the way, replace with the stock filter with a new box so cutting is not visible at all and show to service center and never mention that you used K&N.