Thats wrong, there are kits available, only thing is you will loose the ability of flashing as the HID takes a few secs to warm up, so flashing wont give enough time to warm up. Once your bulb is in full brightness, you can flash but on night driving only, provided you should have a bixenon with the solenoid. If you have a xenon + halo combi then you have hope in flashing as the halo is normally for the hi beam. So make your choice while you buy the kit. But remember, its not as satisfactory as you think or you have seen in the advt as the stock reflectors are meant for halogens not for HIDs. Its makes a hell of glares even if you buy a good quality kit as its nothing to do with the kit except the glare sheild. Insist for a bulb with glare shield, some bike kits are available without sheild.

I stick to my earlier statement and you can convince yourself just by fixing a 55W bulb or higher, if you commute more than an hour will be run out of battery within these limits. Try it and lets have your comments. Nothing wrong with the wires as I have done 100/90 on the stock wiring for a few months nothing happend, in your case, you are using only 55/60, no probs at all.

Ahi do you feel any difference in brightness after converting to DC? I think the diodes are restricting some current while rectification and thats why the heat generation. Am I right? I felt it very clearly when I have done this with halogens, but with HID no diff at all. Can you suggest a delay circuit for the HID start with batt and then from the coil via rectifier? As to my knowledge, batt is to be for the warmup and rest can be taken care of the stock batt coil as its already giving 3.5A which is sufficient enough to feed provided I should keep the rpm not less than 3K, a bit awkward? But my ballast is a AC type not like the usual DC ones.

Yeah you are correct. Cost varies from around 2.5k for cheap chinese stuffs to around 5k for normal quality stuffs. But normal quality stuffs or car OEM stuffs are available in pairs and go upto 20k per pair.

Nah, I share what I know!

thanks look like all i have to do is to try out the 55W bulb and experience the difference....
philips extreme vision or osram, what do you prefer
whats you guys opinion....
i am going for philips??

thanks abhijeet and sajan. for answering my stupid questions..

Good advice there!

Yeah, try it out with a 60/55W and let us know! And it is not only the wiring.. This bike has a BCU. Dont know what loads it can support. A relay is therefore recommended.

Yeah, the diodes cause a .7V drop. With HID, there will be no change in brightness, only that your battery will be able to last longer. Yeah, if you can keep your rpm grater than 3k, it will work fine as it is!

Well just connect the coil to batt via rectifier. Why need a delay ckt and all! It will just add complexity I guess.

I used Osram bulb. Cost was around 80 bucks. Dont know about phillips, but this one was very good.

Oopse, Battery on my cbz is screwed up i guess. Nothing was working horns,indicators, not even the neutral lamp. After a km of riding it was back then no problems..Still running the big horn's with less sound....The sound out of that is not soft and crisp as before.....Please help me!!!

Diodes restricts only 0.7 v? then how come this much heat from the diodes? I think a considerable amount of amps losing through out the rectification and thats the reason almost everyone is following the regulated AC for lighting rather giving less strain to the engine for the optimum output ie, milage. My stock setup is giving 3.5A already but thatz not enough to feed the HID. Right, with the delay circuit, may get more complex.

I dont know about the HH startor much, all I know it also flicks to life on a push with aid of a 7Ah batt and no one seems complained. So should be good. Yes you are right, U3 version onwards startor motors changed and its proved as use and throw. My starter motor's bearing was replaced with a UG3 version which was lying as scrap as the armature was worn out prematurely. My armature was 5 year old was still in good condition thats the diff.I went for a service as the new motor will make a hole of Rs. 1750/ and the total damage was 300/ including the brush which was almost worn out.

Chottu, you can try Osram Night Breaker, bit expensive but worth to try if you are not going for HID. Its a trusted and proven and certified with many riders in this forum. Personaly I havent tried it, was riding with a Flosser 100/90 for a few months and replaced 3 stock domes due to over heat which can be taken care of this. I have seen this O NB's performance and it was almost as near as mine 100/90.

You have overloaded your bike, I guess. Get some of those loads off!

one more question guyz

mty p180ug4 has two pilot lamps 5w*2 each, and one number plate lamp of 10w, now if i remove\unplug those bulbs than i would have 20W of extra power which could be utilised for powering 55W/60 headlight bulb...

will this get the battery draining issue to rest....

Only HID and position + brake light are connected to battery, everything else is on AC. Position lamps 5X2=10W, yeah it can make a diff. Shall try that too

my bike has fuul dc electricals everything in it runs on DC..

not position lamps it is pilot lamp, bulbs fitted on besides headlight can be called as parking light...

If battery draining issues arise,then do all these!!! Else don't bother!

You forgot the console lights too. 1.8x3 = 5.4W

you mean (unplugging those bulbs) will work if problem arises.

now i donot have any doubts if above is true and mine brother just got the philips extreme power bulb for me will be going to mechanic for its fitting after 4pm.. but he also bought a ceramic holder said that this would not melt in extra heat generated by bulb.. and this new bulb will also not fit in existing bulb holder,

yes only will try if there are battery issues.

It will fit yaar, lots of ppl have done that! Ceramic holder is needed only for 100/90. Use stock holder only! Why bother changing holders n cutting wires?

Chottu, these are all you can try out yourself without any probs. Defnitly there is a saving of 20W and you can lightup the number plates with LEDs. Abhi had done it successfully, read his thread. The more u save the more u can drive with that its simple logic.

No everything except I mentioned are on AC. yes blinkers but usage is limited.I didnt do the full conversion am more focused on the headlights. Forget about tail lights, position lamps, consoles all I can do later on like you've done with LEDs. But I have a pair of Roots Vibrasonic, taken from my car is really crying for breath.. Surprisingly my starter 'nt affected so far.