Topic Approved.

Did you completely change the brake fluid after the brake pad change or just topped it up? Or did neither?

Would very much appreciate help in this regard because I am facing similar issues in my bike where the front disc brake bite is not satisfactory, definitely not what it was when the bike was new.

Also I have completely changed the brake fluid (not top up but complete replacement) still not happy with it.

The pads still show 2 lines of wear indicator indicating that there is a healthy bit of brake pad lining material left (only 10,000kms brake pads should not require replacement this early)

Mechanic said that it is not possible to adjust play of the brake lever, so what should be done so that on pulling the lever, the brake bites earlier (now I have to pull it so that it almost touches the handlebar before anything happens, zero feed back )

First of all is the brake fluid DOT 3 in your bikes ? if so change it to DOT 4,since it has lesser tendency to absorb moisture and has better higher temperature behavior.
That said, please check if the muck and grime collected on the disc caliper piston had made it sticky...to do this ,take out pads from the caliper.Apply water under medium pressure, like with garden hose ,around the two pistons, and brush it clean..wipe the wet area clean, and while holding the caliper horizontally, apply few drops of DOT 4 around the piston,and try to push them inside with thumb. If it does not move use a "C" clamp to push both inside...then slightly apply front brake to get the pistons out...do this a few times to both pistons to free up the movement.
Secondly pull out the caliper holding plate away from the caliper....and apply bearing grease to the two studs on the plate and fit it on to the caliper. Now position and secure the pads and bolt the assembly back on the fork. Ride around slowly checking out the braking...

@psr sir thank you so much for your reply. Had used DOT3 this time. Will talk to mechanic about the free movement of piston and see how that works out since personally i am a noob at these things.

@psr, thanks very much for your detailed description. I am currently using DOT3 fluid. I have followed all the instructions in your reply but still facing the same issues.

One of the mechanics suggested to change the 'master kit' (said it costs around 200 bucks) . Does change of the master kit will help to fix those two issues ?

I am worried mostly about the friction, that the brake pads are putting onto my wheel. Can you please suggest any other way to find out the solution to the problem.

Thanks,
Anil

Check if the wheel stops at the same spot or spots every time you try to rotate the wheel by hand. If it does, its an indication of a wrapped rotor and you might have to get it resurfaced or replaced depending on the existing wear / thickness of the rotor.

Whenever you get your tyre replaced or a puncture repaired make sure they don't rest the wheel with the rotor facing down.

Please Mention about Play of brake lever and how does it feel when ever you apply brakes or just do 1> remove brake caliper and then try to spin front wheel by hand ( plz dont ride your bike ) and see how much difference it makes when ever you remove caliper. If isnt much then its fine or just follow psr sir's advice and everything should be fine.

2> According to my knowledge (plz correct me if am wrong ) the brake lever should not touch Accelerator even if u apply little force to it , try this and see if brake lever touches throttle , If brake lever is touching Throttle It is clear indication that there are air bubble's in hose pipe or in master cylinder , So ask your mech to bleed brakes to remove air bubble ( there is thread in DIY on Disk brake bleeding please follow it if you wish to DIY) .

3> Those who were advised to change master kit ASK THEM TO CHANGE IT IN WARRANTY as that comes under 2yrs of man warranty and it does not come under regular (wear and tear) parts . 90% (99%) time there are air bubble in brake lines and removing it takes little bit of time ( 5-15mins max) but most of the VIP mech ahve no time for their customers and just to avoid doing these types of work they'll suggest some parts replacement and will give you high cost estimate . So try bleeding brakes (first read Do It Your Self thread) and then go to mech.

3> If DIY , please do not try High Speed tests , always experiment @ slow speed ( 1st gear below 20) just in case some thing jams up u'll have enough time to recover ur self . And yea Wear all riding gears while testing brakes , Do it on empty roads .

Please correct me if am wrong at any points .


+1

Re: Apache RTR Disc Brake Problem

from last 1 month i am facing issues with my apache rtr 160's front brake.
Apply brakes, sometimes the bike stops suddenly, sooner than you expect and sometimes it takes longer than you expect.
Mostly the brake lever has to be pressed with too much force to stop the bike. the feel is no longer the way it was when the bike was new.
My bike is 10k km old.
Please let me know what can cause this issue and what needs to be done.

Thanks

Re: Apache RTR Disc Brake Problem

i am having problem with my apache rtr 180 rear disk, the brake feels dead and there's almost no pressure in the lever. The mechanic says that the mc kit needs to be replaced, but i doubt him. the brake oil is also upto the level.
If anyone has idea about what to do please help!
and if mc kit needs to be replaced then what would be the cost.
thanks in advance