Nope. You dont have to shift gears or brake.

Just let the throttle off so the speed drops, then again give the throttle to move up. Keep your speed between 30-50kmph.(In top gear, RPM shall vary between 3000 to 4000rpm)

for how long my odo id now 1507

as i am planning to ride a 355+355(up & down) so i am little bit confused. my odo still now not 2k so if i use SS or FS for this engine will it make trouble later or i'll stick to 20w40 minarel grade for this..

Hi,

Since, the thread starter had raised a query on the same hence, i had put forward my response accordingly . As far as Yamaha warranty is concerned: if i may, it doesn't cover any consumable parts and electrical parts with exception to the meter console and that's about it.. so in my 2 years of experience with my FZ, all i can state is Yamaha warranty is just a marketing gimmick and that's about it.

2ndly, as far as the engine oil is concerned.. Yamaha has put forward the timeline in the manual based on the 20W 40 mineral oil which by default has a lesser life expectancy once exposed to the elements thus by nature it oxidizes faster. The same is not necessarily applicable when one puts in FS oil... regardless, i would say if the thread starter wants to use the FS oil and specifically Motul he can do so post 2nd service as most of the parts have already mated to their correct tolerance level and can have longer service intervals. FS oil, especially from Motul has better lubrication properties compared to SS oil so for long rides especially... it is much better than mineral or SS oil in terms of endurance and keeps the engine running at optimum temperature without letting it overheat. I have done 500 kms non stop on it so can claim whatever i have said .

Pricing wise i do agree that FS oil is on the higher side and cash wise SS oil makes more sense.. however, i shall leave the decision to the thread starter to choose which one to go for based on his requirement. On a personal note, i would rate FS any day better over SS oil.

So unless the thread starter is hell bent upon saving his warranty claims (if ever required), he can shift to FS oil and enjoy the experience.

@threadstarter: regarding your other query, you use variable throttle i.e. not keeping the engine running at the same revs in a particular gear constantly for a long time. Instead, you reach say 4000 rpm and then shift all the gears to 5th at the same revs then on the road you don't keep her constantly running at 4000 rpm for a long distance. Instead, you throttle her up to 4000 rpm run her on that rpm for some time and then let go of the throttle and then again raise her to 4000 rpm.

The idea is to put different load to the engine and let the break in process happen much more efficiently. the ideal way of doing this is to modulate the throttle, in between change the gears and then hit 4000 rpm, let go of the throttle and down shift to a higher gear and then accelerate. the engine experiences different load throughout. You can also gently give a short burst all the way to 6000 rpm and then let go of the throttle and then bring her down to 4000 rpm for the first 500 kms. The key is being gentle and not go crazy unless one intends to follow the "Motoman technique" which is not recommended unless one understands the inner workings of the engine and also how to counter act a problem should something go wrong.

I would suggest both the thread starter and the mods to merge this with the FZ ownership thread rather than keeping this as a separate topic as all of this has been extensively discussed in the Yamaha FZ/Fazer ownership thread.

Cheers,

as i am planning to ride a 355+355(up & down) so i am little bit confused. my odo still now not 2k so if i use SS or FS for this engine will it make trouble later or i'll stick to 20w40 minarel grade for this..

If you have finished your 1000 kms of run-in period.. you can shift to SS or FS oil. however, based on personal experience, you should stick to mineral oil till the 2nd service and then can decide to go crazy on whichever oil you would like to use... If you have not finished your run -in yet.. i would suggest finish that first and then commence with your long distance ride..

Mineral oil: Motul 3000v 4T 20W 40: costs same as Yamalube: Life = 2500-3000 kms based on usage. Since, you are planning to ride a 700+ kms journey, mineral oil will do fine but post 2500 kms change it asap... you will notice that post 2500 kms the engine oil has become completely black...

And yes you can switch to whichever brand of oil you like.. if the SVC guys tell you that it will void warranty.. ask them to give it in writing and on their SVC letterhead.. a common trick played by them to force owners to buy stuff from their shop and make money on it.. Motul better than Yamalube.. Yamalube is now manufactured locally in India as per JASO MA standards.. Motul comes imported from France and is marketed and distributed in India.

Very important thing to keep in mind is not to ride FZ near the red line for extremely long distance... The engine because of short gearing by nature will go through a lot of stress and hence, not recommended.. some of the riders who had pushed their respective rides to redline for a very long time have witnessed busted valve seals, warped piston rings and catastrophic engine oil consumption... modulate the throttle and in between give her a belting all the way to the red line (close to 9000 rpm) for a short duration and keep the revs under 7500 rpm to 8000 max throughout the journey.. You can do non stop ride of 700 kms in a day without giving her a break.. the FE figures will also depend on how you ride her.

Cheers,

another thing important to me.the light section i installed a angel eye in stock battery.
now and the parking lamp is replaced with led.now if i want better light then what to do except HID and projecter?

You can opt for Osram NightBreakers,a bit pricy though....

where to buy in kolkata?and price of that please...specify model for fz.. having 5 amp battery,using 35W/35W stock head light..and what about blue vision ultra by philips???

Hi TS

Even my bike is just as new as yours only 920 odd kms on ODO. Did two oil changes till now 250, 550 and will drain out next on 1000 kms ODO.

I think you should stick to Mineral oil till 5000k ODO so that you can have check on the oil level.

I'd be changing on 1000 kms, 2000 kms, 3500 kms and at 5000 kms I will be pouring SS oil and I'm planning SS oil for say till 15k kms then I'd be getting into FS only if I'm less satisfied with SS. Till 5000 kms I'd be on mineral.

Try Motul 4T 20w 40 mineral oil as suggested by shv18.

I hope you have been riding her without ripping during engine break-in period. That's important part of your bike's engine life.

Set some goals by yourself that you won't be doing this or that (I mean with speed) till so and so kms so that you can have a control on yourself.

Anyways these days riding above 50 is an offence. Today I was just building the tolerance of the bike by giving short bursts of 80 km/hr (touching 6k RPM). Luckily the short burst escaped a speed camera, there was a honda unicorn guy with his wife arguing with the policeman. My gosh I was like , didn't know how I escaped speed camera.

It's better you don't give too much load on your babe, if at all you have enough cash to rebuild the engine afresh. FZ-16 is a very nice cruiser. Really I feel driving a volvo bus when riding FZ-16 with its streamlined acceleration.

ya.but you know I also don't ride above 50 but today I just gave her a smooth acceleration to 7.5-8 k rpm because today svc guys told me to accelerate smoothly as today I had a service ..it was 106KMPH..too smooth.. just for few seconds..(15-20) awesome experience....

@ jonahmano,
you can go upto 6k rpm on lower gears also this can eliminate overspeeding. Though cops still may think you're overspeeding because of higher exhaust sound.
Safe bet is to go on empty roads/highways.

@ uddiptocse,
15-20 sec at around 8k rpm sounds too much, better keep that kind of speed bursts limited to 10 seconds.

Thank you but I'm a speed guy and very well excelled in escaping speed cameras.

My speeds on car is 100-140km/hr

And I do speeds of 60-110 km/hr on bikes which I have ridden till now.

Just waiting to finish the run-in period and will do full paisa vasool of 82 k OTR

thank u but..in that kind of way i bet also can't resist yourself..i was varying rpm 7.5 to 8 k

ya i know, resisting oneself is not the feel good thing but it pays for it latter. And yes, 'varying rpm' is the funda.

lol so you are the speed guy! Plz do tell me the tricks for escaping speed cams & guns I may need it too.
And stay safe whatever you do