Topic Approved.

Get your bike's smoke problems solved before going for modification: THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.

For the smoke problem, get the AFR tuned, it seems to be on the Rich side. If not, then try replacing the valve seals first, and head gasket second, and see if the smoke problem is solved.

As for the oil, see if the oil is leaking from below the crankcase. Also check if the crankcase breather pipe is in place. A block and piston change may be required, we can't be sure.


And as for K&N, if you're going for BA 2201, then its ok. Follow its box's instructions, install it properly and that's it.

But for K&N RC 1060, follow these tips:

1. Get a slightly bigger Carburetor main jet installed. Then tune the AFR in such a way that at idle rpm, the rpm needle should not flicker automatically, which means its running lean, and nor should it run too rich..

2. Get a custom airbox made which should protect the filter from dust. This is also very important.

Ok first i will get AFR tuned properly then will see for valve seals & head gasket and rest of the things.

Thanks Samarth.

If I were you, I'd just forget the K&N. You're not going to see any kind of noticable power increase, but you will wear your engine out faster. K&N filters don't actually flow much more air than a good paper filter, but they do let a lot more dirt through when they're clean. When they get dirty, K&N actually flow worse than an equally-dirty paper filter. Instead of wasting your time (and maybe your motor) on a K&N, try to track down a performance paper filter. It will have more folds, and they will be deeper than the stock filter, so the filter will have greater surface area and will flow better.

To put performance filters in perspective, you will usually see a 1 to 2% increase in power, which in the case of your pulsar will be a little more than one tenth of a horsepower. This is less of a difference at the rear wheel than you would see comparing a bike with a cold drive chain to a bike with a warmed-up drive chain. Performance filters only matter to racers who look for every scrap of power they can find, because lots of little increases added together can actually make a difference. Further, when you're talking about engines that make many hundreds of horsepower, a few percent increase is still several horsepower, and therefore enough to actually matter. On the street, where so many variables are outside your control, only major changes will make any difference, and the filter isn't one of them. On a bike with as little power as a Pulsar 150, you're better off spending your money on good tires and keeping the chain maintained.

Hey,

Yesterday i went to my regular mechanic. He opened block piston assembly, the honing lines inside the bore were gone & instead of that vertical lines came up. Because of the vertical lines oil was coming to upside & was getting burnt. so had to change whole block piston.

And black smoke problem was due to valves. The inner edges of valves was in cancave shape. They are also changed. Total cost was 3K.

Also installed K&N RC-1060. For now i have not put bigger jet as mechanic suggested the engine needs to be set properly at starting phase. Today i went to long ride at 40-45kmph without filter sound and covered 200km. Till weekend will cover 1000kms. Hard to control myself but have to do for better results...

I have some doubts about current AFR setting as mechanic said its on average mode, not much rich. But when engine is cold it shows 1100RPM at idle mode and after ride assume 30-40kms it shows 1700-1800RPM. Is it ok as block piston is changed and it will automatically be set after few kms??? My guess about AFR setting may be wrong. Need help for this.

Yes, you may be right. I have heard a lots of pros & cons of K&N filter but for me, the main reason behind K&N filter is for more power. It will be increased by atleast 10%. One of my friend is using it & i tested it myself. I practice cornering on weekends. I feel lack of instant pickup. For cornering I have put MRF-Zapper 120/80 rear and 90/90 front tyre both tubeless. And Im planning to buy new racing bike like R15 within 1 or 1.5yrs.

Thanks.

Since you have done engine work on your bike , It is recommended that you do a proper run in for atleast 1000km with stock air filter or else you bike may give you more trouble ..
Also K&N air filter tends to allow minute dust particles to engine , As your engine is worked upon , you are inviting more trouble I suppose..

KnN sounds better than the stock filter but there is not a substantial gain in power dont get me wrong , there is a gain but not substantial

bigger main jets will definitely help but will lead to slight drop in eficiency but it is essential

as for precautions , maintenance is essential , time to time cleaning with the KnN filter cleaning kit and proper oiling of the filter is necessary

i have the RC1060 installed on my 2007 pulsar 200 and had to do out of necessity not by choice (have a rear monoshock hence the filter box had to be removed)
it gets really dirty in our road condition and needs frequent cleaning
the local mechs dont know anything about it so it just adds up to the problems..

Ya, my mechanic also recommended this but we have done this before with my friends pulsar 150. Same situation occurred with him, changed block piston & installed k&n at the same time. The major difference between stock & k&n filter is k&n sucks more air than stock. If we precuationally ride within limit while covering 1000kms then it wont harm. And im very very careful about speed limit and throttle. I have not heard proper sound of my filter yet & wont hear before 1000kms.



I agree with you. There is a gain but not substantial. But as i said above i have tested myself on friends Pul 150. Felt change in pickup & top speed. Though average drops to 40kmpl after a couple of years. Also im not looking for long term. Within 2 years i would have new bike. Thinking of all this i had took decision about k&n. And yes i would focus on maintenance of k&n. I regularly do servicing. Luckily i have filter box.