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Thread: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

  1. #7211
    Rusted RohIIT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by itsmevini123 View Post
    Hi Sibun, A hero hunk owner here, so you have changed your front sprocket right, with 15T? and how many teeth are there in stock sprocket, does rear sprocket change will make any changes in top speed?
    Sorry to poke in middle , but i would like to say something here...xtreme when stock comes with a 14teeth front sprocket ..replacing it with a unicorn's 15teeth takes off load from engine , The final drive ratio is different and gearing becomes tall, in other words you can achieve cruising speeds at lower rpm...top speed thing can be confirmed by sibun , i drive both uni and xtreme on daily basis so can tell the difference So if u want fast accel. Use stock sprocket But if you are a highway runner and want a relaxed engine use uni sprocket (it reduces pickup a bit)
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    Default @Mr.Sibun

    .


    Congrats and welcome to the herd. For the squeaking noise just direct a high pressure jet of water at the rear shocks, this will dislodge the dirt and stop the squeaking noise.[/QUOTE]

    Mr.Sibun! Your suggestion worked like a charm. The noise is no more. Thanks a lot. Actually my bike was delivered by the showroom guys without water-wash. They said that water-wash would render the teflon coat useless and blah blah. I was also in a bit of hurry, so just got the bike wiped off by the yellow cloth. The Service center guys once again proved themselves as dumb n stupid. Any way thanks a lot once again.
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  3. #7213
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    Default Carb tuning by a newbie

    Its been a long time i posted something valuable and informative , So i begin with stating all the problems i had with my bike..(done 2500km)
    1. Low mileage ( 35kmpl in city with sane driving )
    2. High engine noise and roughness
    3. Low and erratic pickup
    4. Hot rpm 1600 , cold rpm 900

    So first i proceeded to clean my air filter .. DONE

    But again none of my problems were solved . So i checked my spark plug an found it to be uber lean ( Greyish- White )
    So i thought of tuning my carb as sibun ji said, But was worried as i have never done this before and expecting it to completely screw it up.
    But I gathered guts and went for it. I tried to tune it using Sibun`s method , Upto some extent i got success ,but still plug was greyish
    Now i sanded the plug and once again tried to tune it , Now i am writing up my exact experience and plz note to clean Air filter and carb before tuning

    1. Took out printout of the page 697 which had post of tuning ( Believe me for newbies it is an important step so that u could read and do every step systematically )
    2. Remove the carb insulator ( thin grey pipe before intake manifold , It covers a brass tube )
    3. Now tighten the AFR screw ( Its a 2-3 cm brass colored screw on the carb ) , Note that do not use HULK power to tighten it , use small amount of pressure to just close it)
    4. If possible note how much turns u rotated the screw to close it , this will help in reverting in case something goes wrong.
    5. Now close the protruding brass pipe from the carb with one of your thumb , If you dont close it , Bike wont idle and it will shut off.
    6. Open or turn anti clockwise the AFR screw to 1.5 turns .
    7. Now start the bike an set idle to 2000rpm by turning Idle screw ( its on right side of bike , Its a big Vertical screw below tank)
    8. Now slowly turn the AFR screw anti clockwise , by slowly i mean 1/8th turn at a time, and wait for 7-8 sec before turning again.
    9. You will notice that thr rpm raises as u slowly turn the screw , Dont hurry up as each turn alters the AFR and engine responds to it accordingly.
    10. At a point you will see the rpm has gone to a highest point ( mine went to 3700rpm )
    11. ON further turning you will see instead of increasing , the rpm drops ( The drop is not dramatic but 100-200 rpm change is there)
    12. On further turning you will see the rpm stays constant and doesnt vary ( Stop turning further now)
    12. Now slightly turn the AFR clockwise , so that it again shows highest rpm.
    13. Reduce the idle to 1100-1200. and switch off bike , reconnect the carb insulator.
    14. Drive and see the change in FE and power for yourselves.


    My bike ran on stock setting till 2500 km and i never bothered to check the FE, once the problems arose , i had to do tuning myself.
    As sibun ji said , Stock doesnt mean perfect setting , So now le me tell the after effects of tuning

    1. Mileage shot upto 50-55 in city and 55-63 in highways
    2. Power and throttle response is way sharper than before
    3. Self start now sounds more like that of unicorn and engine is smoother
    4. Rpm now is stable at 1100-1200 rpm and doesnt fluctuate much

    Now coming down to the question why remove the grey insulator , If you dont remove it the rpm will keep climbing as you turn the screw and you wont get the rpm drop which indicates the correct mix point. I coudnt get the catch of vibration and smooth engine point that sibun mentioned , But nevertheless , I learnt an integral part of tuning today.

    FYI I did this 3rd time and got it correct , So dont get dissappointed if you dont get it correct , Many FM here agree that carb tuning requires experience. So i end this story here.. Happy Carb Tuning ....

    EDIT : This is a pic of spark plug after the tune and 90KM run
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    Last edited by RohIIT; 03-08-2013 at 04:45 PM. Reason: Spark plug pic

  4. #7214
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    Today after tuning my carb in morning , I went to SVC to get bike serviced at 2700km , So bear with my report ..

    1. Gave them vehicle at 9.30 AM , sharp , Clearly warned them not to touch carb.
    2. Washed (as usual .. just satisfactory )
    3. The mechanic test drove before any changes
    4. He
    a) Cleaned air filter
    b) Cleaned front sprocket and chain ( from bit of their bowl of black petrol and rags )
    c) Tightened chain and braked , clutch etc etc
    d) Changed engine oil with barrel oil , When i asked the manager that i want the bottled oil , their reply was " Sir khali bottles problem bn gye the ,usliye hum ab barrel oil mangate hain " I burst into laughter after hearing this....
    e) Cleaned exterior and gave me back at 11.15 AM.

    In all average service...Also i wanted to check the top speed and accel. after the tune , so here are my experiences
    1. Below 50kmph, the sheer weight of bike hampers pickup
    2. As you cross 60kmph , you are in the zone of Xtreme , give throttle and it leaps forward.
    3. After 80 kmph ( something 7K rpm, cant remember exact rpm range ) the bike pulls real fast to 100kmph
    4. I had 20% of throttle and it was almost 109kmph , Due to traffic i couldnt get the exact top speed , But i agree that it can easily hit 114kmph
    Note : My bike is completely stock , Uses 14/43 Teeth combination.
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    @all
    Received the bike today they changed the clutch plate and some other parts and front fork seal...parts changed are as follows :







    They also charged me extra for "consumables" the total including engine oil ( veedol swift 10W 40) + veedol fork oil came to Rs 2900.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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  6. #7216
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    Quote Originally Posted by punarvasu View Post
    There is an amazing increase of about 57% - 80% in the FE of your bike in city riding after retuning the carburettor. That means Hunk/Extreme is the most fuel efficient bike in our market if its AFR is adjusted as you did. I wonder why this ratio of fuel and air for combustion never came to the notice of the internationally renowned Honda and their brilliant -but a little less brilliant than some of our - engineers.

    If you are not selfish enough to keep this secret of AFR tuning yourself to enjoy its benefits privately, kindly send a message to Honda or Hero, explaining how you tuned the carburettor to get this fantastic FE in city rides. You will surely be rewarded for it.

    If you dont like to share your knowledge for the sake of motorcycle riders and through them the whole mankind, try to get it patented in your name.
    I wonder why there's so much hate and sarcasm in your posts



    Sent from my WT19i
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  7. #7217
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    Quote Originally Posted by punarvasu View Post
    There is an amazing increase of about 57% - 80% in the FE of your bike in city riding after ‘retuning’ the carburettor. That means Hunk/Extreme is the most fuel efficient bike in our market if its AFR is adjusted as you did. I wonder why this ratio of fuel and air for combustion never came to the notice of the internationally renowned Honda and their brilliant -but a little less brilliant than some of our - engineers.

    If you are not selfish enough to keep this secret of AFR tuning yourself to enjoy its benefits privately, kindly send a message to Honda or Hero, explaining how you ‘tuned’ the carburettor to get this fantastic FE in city rides. You will surely be rewarded for it.

    If you don’t like to share your knowledge for the sake of motorcycle riders and through them the whole mankind, try to get it patented in your name.
    Quote Originally Posted by christo View Post
    I wonder why there's so much hate and sarcasm in your posts

    Sent from my WT19i
    punarvasu,

    I was thinking on the same christo has said above!
    First it was Sibun, now its Rohiit. I have seen your posts in other threads, but never seen sarcasm like this.

    I do not know technically to the extent that I can makeout the exact topend of a bike from gearing, to talk about your bashing on Sibun.
    But, regarding Rohiit's post - all are posting here their tips and suggestions, other FMs can comment on it. If all are satisfied with the stock, SVC set settings with their bikes, then there is no need of a forum like xbhp or a thread like this.
    Again, i'm not technically competent to say Rohiit's steps are right/wrong, it is good that if you could point out what is wrong in Rohit's post, that it would be helpful for other FMs here.

    P.S: Decently maintained XTremes do give 50-55kmpl in city

  8. #7218
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    Quote Originally Posted by RohIIT View Post
    Sorry to poke in middle , but i would like to say something here...xtreme when stock comes with a 14teeth front sprocket ..replacing it with a unicorn's 15teeth takes off load from engine , The final drive ratio is different and gearing becomes tall, in other words you can achieve cruising speeds at lower rpm...top speed thing can be confirmed by sibun , i drive both uni and xtreme on daily basis so can tell the difference So if u want fast accel. Use stock sprocket But if you are a highway runner and want a relaxed engine use uni sprocket (it reduces pickup a bit)
    Thanks for the answer, one more thought changing rear sprocket will affect any positive or negative results in performance...? have you changed your bike's rear sprocket...?
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  9. #7219
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    @sarbonoxley
    How much did the fork seal,oil and replacement cost you ?
    Is it still bottoming ?

    After calculating, I am getting the total cost of Parts including vat@14.5 % as Rs.1736 and labour as 476 incld s.tax@12% but the bill show something else.

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    Quote Originally Posted by christo View Post
    I wonder why there's so much hate and sarcasm in your posts
    Quote Originally Posted by SatSon View Post
    punarvasu, I was thinking on the same christo has said above!
    All of us know that a mere adjustment of the air fuel ratio cannot – in any circumstance – improve the fuel efficiency of any vehicle by about 57 – 80% as claimed by RohIIT to whom I have no enmity. I was praising him if his claim is true.

    A thread like this is to post our tips and suggestions but it does not mean that posting any nonsense in the pretence of helping others is a good habit.

    What I said about gear modification is this: Changing the gear ratio of 3.071 to 2.867 increases the speed by about 7% but decreases the torque at the rear sprocket at the same ratio making the bike sluggish. I still think I am correct.

    First of all let me tell that carburettor tuning and AFR adjusting are totally different. Disturbing the AFR settings is not suggested by any vehicle manufacturer as it makes the fuel rich or lean. In case it is essential, it is suggested to be done at a workshop with gas analyzer and digital tachometer; not by a roadside or local mechanic who does not have these facilities and hence pretend to be an expert enough to depend his ears.

    About the level of brilliance of our engineers: we are the first ones using steam to cook food. The Europeans used it to make locomotives. Food is the most basic need of man and hence the engineers of ours – ours means those belong to our country; not to this forum – are more brilliant and nothing more than that.

    If anything more, please PM me.

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